Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
Ciadella InteriorsAmerican Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Nu-Relics Power Windows
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy

Username Post: Best way to sell a engine?        (Topic#347214)
Charlie57 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3088
Charlie57
Loc: Lebanon, Tennessee
Reg: 03-30-08
09-19-17 06:25 AM - Post#2708113    

I inherited this 32 Chevy from my Uncle. I do know that I will not be using this engine when I do the restoration. The only thing I know about it is that it ran when he parked it 15 or so years ago and it's not seized up. I do know know what size it is either.
So is that best way to sell it to make the most money?
Should I get it running? sell the valve covers, headers and pulleys separately. What should I ask for it?
It was storage in his garage for 20 years, I had it outside last winter but wrapped up tight, I'd rather sell it then let it set their and not get used.
Charlie
[image]046 by Charlie Shew, on Flickr[/image]
[image]047 by Charlie Shew, on Flickr[/image]



 




rumrumm 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2067
rumrumm
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
09-19-17 07:03 AM - Post#2708119    
    In response to Charlie57

If I was going to buy an engine, I would want to hear it run.

Lynn

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."


383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock, Sanderson. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 ft. lbs. torque @ 4300.

http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanso n


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27090
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
09-19-17 08:25 AM - Post#2708132    
    In response to Charlie57

If I were a buyer, I would want to deal with someone who sounded as if he knew what he was selling. The parts flippers on ebay who haven't got a clue about what they are trying to flip drive me nuts and make me want to keep my distance.

So the first thing you want to do is know. This isn't as bad as it sounds. Write down the casting number and date code from the top rear of the engine behind the intake manifold. Also write down the stamping on the block deck in front of the right side head. Post that info here and we can help you identify the engine.

Also, post whatever info you can get off the intake manifold and carb. The carb looks like a Holley from here so it should have an identifying "list" number stamped (not cast) into its air horn.

Absolutely try to get the engine running. If it will hold oil pressure and run without making any bad noises or a lot of smoke, sell it in one piece. This will definitely be better than parting it out.

How much else of the car do you not want to keep? What about the rest of the driveline, like the trans and rear end?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Charlie57 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3088
Charlie57
Loc: Lebanon, Tennessee
Reg: 03-30-08
09-20-17 03:28 PM - Post#2708283    
    In response to raycow

Here are some numbers I pull of the engine
Heads 3978487 GM43
Block 3956618 On back
19(J or 0)564786 V0307FC on front


The trans can go also, I believe its a 350 or 400.
Charlie

"Charlie's 57 Chevy" I made it's very own FaceBook page please visit and "Like"
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Charlies-1957-C hevy/214078481937849


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17112
grumpyvette
Age: 69
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
09-21-17 04:04 AM - Post#2708345    
    In response to Charlie57

3973487 – 1971-1972 350, 1.94/1.5 or 2.02/1.6 valves, also 1971 350 or 330hp LT1, 75cc chambers

3956618 Small Block V8 1968-1969 327, 2 bolt

3956618 Small Block V8 1969 350, 2 bolt or 4 bolt

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27090
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
09-21-17 10:20 AM - Post#2708387    
    In response to Charlie57

FC suffix is a 69 327 with a 2 barrel carb.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Ray P W 
Contributor
Posts: 342

Reg: 09-30-15
09-23-17 02:24 PM - Post#2708649    
    In response to Charlie57

Hi Charlie,

To me that engine would have potential for rebuilding and has some nice parts on it (pulleys, intake manifold, carb, valve covers) that add value.

Before I buy any engine as a core for rebuilding I disassemble it to check the size and condition of all of the crankshaft journals and the cylinder bores. I've found that it's necessary to inspect several before finding one with a crankshaft in undamaged condition with standard size journal diameters, standard size bores and no visible damage like split or rust damaged cylinder walls.

One I looked at for my son's use had a lot of water in the pan that flowed out when the oil drain plug was removed. It had been stored outside with the intake manifold off. Two of the cylinders with open intake valves looked really rusty but cleaned up with a 0.020" bore and all of the parts of the crankshaft that mattered were above the water line in the pan (dumb luck). So although not pretty, that $50 engine core worked out for my son.

I don't know how many sellers would allow such inspections or how many buyers would do the work but to me you don't know what's inside without looking.

Ray W



Edited by Ray P W on 09-23-17 02:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Stinky 
Senior Member
Posts: 1572

Loc: Whitewater, CO
Reg: 05-25-01
09-25-17 10:24 AM - Post#2708788    
    In response to Ray P W

Just curious, why don't you want to ruN it?

What sort of guy was ur uncle? Did he go all the way, or was so-so good enough?

If it were me....I'd start it and do a compression test on it. If it tests out good, that could also make it worth more...or turn it in to a core.

If your uncle was "Particular" about his stuff, that could be a 2k motor.



 
Ray P W 
Contributor
Posts: 342

Reg: 09-30-15
09-25-17 02:59 PM - Post#2708831    
    In response to Stinky

"or turn it in to a core."

Stinky,

I didn't mean anything negative in using the word "core". By "core" I meant possibly well worn but undamaged and rebuildable without major repair like cylinder sleeves or crankshaft grinding.

I live in a rural area where the concept of doing things properly is rare. Letting somebody around here grind a crankshaft would be huge leap of faith.

To me no matter how good his engine may be, without receipts documenting what's in it, it's a "mystery engine" and has core value only.

At age 72 changing engines is a lot of work and I wouldn't want to do the job twice. So I wouldn't install a "mystery engine" in anything.

It does have some nice parts on it which do add value.

Ray W



 
Stinky 
Senior Member
Posts: 1572

Loc: Whitewater, CO
Reg: 05-25-01
09-30-17 05:01 PM - Post#2709318    
    In response to Ray P W

Sorta hard to tell, but it looks un-run in the pics. (silver headers, not blue, fresh paint) and the body looks almost like it is coming off a paint job.

Therefore, you are gonna have to get it running anyways...which, judging by the pics, should take about an hour, if not 15 minutes. That will give you an idea of the oil pressure. After that, a leak-down & compression test will tell you more...all of which you might think about doing anyways, if you are gonna sell it.

I'm just saying, it might be worth keeping. Unless you are gonna sell as pretty much a core, you should do the above anyways....



 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3813
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
10-01-17 08:49 PM - Post#2709448    
    In response to Stinky

Hey Charlie, it has a lot more value if you can make it run. A good 327 is a desirable engine and I am curious why you would replace it in a car of this size and weight?

I have a 32 steel sedan and it gets along like a muscle car off the mark with a 302W and C4. It has 3.0:1 cruising gears and its only the boxy shape and air brake guards that kills the top end speed.

The engine is period correct for the body and other custom features so you could save a lot of money and effort just finishing the car in the style it has.

Cheers kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 




Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

1377 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.261 seconds.   Total Queries: 13   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 06:26 PM
Top