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Username Post: Oil recommendations        (Topic#346486)
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 217

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
08-09-17 09:03 AM - Post#2703515    

I don't know if this would be better suited to the performance section or what not, but since it's stock, I'll come here. My 99 K2500 is an oil drinker. She burns through about a quart of oil every 1k miles. It's a 7.4 with the external oil cooler. The stock oil recommendation is 5w-30, but as my oil change is coming up in about 700 miles (more of just a filter change at this point) I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions for something that might help the oil consumption issue (besides a rebuild. Don't really have time for the truck to be down at the moment). I don't expect miracles, but it would be nice to slow it down a bit. At this moment it has 199,350 miles.



 
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bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3665
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
08-09-17 09:18 AM - Post#2703516    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

You need to do a compression test to see where the oil is going. If it's going by the rings, which is very possible with that kind of miles, you'll have to live with it until you can do a rebuild. If the compression is good, it could be valve seals which are cheap and quick and easy to replace. If you see a puff of blue smoke when you first start it, that's a sign of valve seals.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28340
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
08-09-17 09:34 AM - Post#2703520    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

While it's during hot season there in AZ you could go up to 10W30 but I don't suspect it would make any difference other than the oil will be slightly thicker when "cold" and I'm taking a really long shot guess here, this is not backed up by any research on my part, just a hunch - *maybe* it could slow down consumption while the engine is still cold. 10W30 is listed in the manual as an acceptable grade of oil in hotter climates. Don't use it when you're in seasons where it gets cold overnight.

You could try switching to a "high mileage" type oil. Most brands offer one now. My personal choice is Castrol for dino oil but that's just me. The high mileage oil costs generally the same as regular, so it's not like you'll pay extra for the experiment.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 217

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
08-09-17 10:05 AM - Post#2703526    
    In response to someotherguy

I'm currently running a high mileage synthetic blend, so back to dino it is. Stuff is to expensive to keep it drinking like that. And it doesn't smoke on start up but occasionally if it's been idling for a while and I jam the throttle to pull into traffic (like when I've been in a drive through or something) it'll James Bond a bit behind me. Constant running though I usually can't see anything it puffs. I'm thinking it's probably the rings as well or maybe even a PCV valve or EGR issue, but I have no check engine codes so I doubt the latter. I'll try swapping to the 10W-30 on the next change to see if that helps.



 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28340
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
08-09-17 10:12 AM - Post#2703528    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

Sounds like valve guides worn, to me. It could be smoking a bit while you're driving, just not enough to notice. Could be time for a valve job.

Not to get caught up in the whole synthetic vs. dino debate, it may do better with regular dino oil. Again, just a guess, and obviously not an expensive experiment.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
454cid 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2379
454cid
Age: 44
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
08-09-17 10:15 AM - Post#2703529    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

10w30 is good down to 0 degrees according to GM. I did not realize it had a temperature restriction on it that I may break, here in MI. That's for the US and Canada..... their International numbers are different.

I have been running Rotella 10w30 when I change the oil, but Shell has since removed the API gasoline engine certification from it. I may or may not change. I've been adding the cheapest 5w30 I can find to keep it full.....which most recently is a case of Formula Shell that I bought on sale at Menards.

I too add oil quite often. It's always used oil, and I've read that's common for the Big Block. I've never really tried to determine where it's going, but I have some ideas. I have a leak someplace on the bottom of the engine, and my valve cover gaskets leak...I can often smell it burning on my exhaust manifolds at lights.

I have 276K miles.

99 K3500 RCLB


Edited by 454cid on 08-09-17 10:21 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 217

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
08-09-17 10:33 AM - Post#2703530    
    In response to 454cid

I've never noticed a leak of any large capacity. I mean of course it has the greasy look around some of the bits, but not a full on wet leak. It never leaves a drop no matter how long I park it either, so I'm pretty sure it's not leaking the oil away. And I agree, it probably is burning it off a bit while driving, just not enough to see in my mirror. I know it has a lifter that bleeds down when parked over night, so when I go in to replace the lifters I'll do valve seals just because. They're not horribly expensive and it certainly won't hurt. And I'll also swap to a full dino 10W when I change the oil. On an off subject, anyone know where I can find a hydro boost brake booster, or at least a rebuild kit for one? Mine's puking pretty bad.



 
454cid 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2379
454cid
Age: 44
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
08-09-17 11:08 AM - Post#2703534    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

  • Junkyardwarrior Said:
I've never noticed a leak of any large capacity. I mean of course it has the greasy look around some of the bits, but not a full on wet leak. It never leaves a drop no matter how long I park it either, so I'm pretty sure it's not leaking the oil away.



My truck doesn't drip engine oil either, or not enough to notice. (It does drip power steering fluid) The engine heat burns most of the volatiles off that make it really liquid.

Have you had to remove/replace your oil cooler lines? How about the oil filter adapter o-ring.... those will probably be noticeable on the ground.

  • Quote:
I know it has a lifter that bleeds down when parked over night



How do you know a lifter is bleeding down? A rattle?


  • Quote:
On an off subject, anyone know where I can find a hydro boost brake booster, or at least a rebuild kit for one? Mine's puking pretty bad.



I replaced mine..... it was from either Rockauto or Amazon. I looked into rebuilding my original booster, and determined that it wasn't something I wanted to do now..... I did save it, Though. I don't recall the details, but I think it had something to do with the way the shaft is retained ..... peened over or something.


99 K3500 RCLB


 
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 217

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
08-09-17 11:13 AM - Post#2703536    
    In response to 454cid

The oil lines and ring haven't been replaced that I know of. The lifter I know is the issue because it has a valve tap on cold start that goes completely silent after about 30 seconds. And when I say cold start, I mean cold cold. Not like 110 outside parked overnight. It only does it in temps below 90. I'll check rock auto for that booster. I've known it was leaking for a while, but it's just gotten horrible lately. The frame rail is covered in PS fluid.



 
454cid 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2379
454cid
Age: 44
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
08-09-17 11:45 AM - Post#2703545    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

  • Junkyardwarrior Said:
The oil lines and ring haven't been replaced that I know of. The lifter I know is the issue because it has a valve tap on cold start that goes completely silent after about 30 seconds. And when I say cold start, I mean cold cold. Not like 110 outside parked overnight. It only does it in temps below 90.



Haha, "temps below 90" as cold
It's probably only gotten above 90 here, this summer, a few times. The humidity can be horrible, Though.

  • Quote:
I'll check rock auto for that booster. I've known it was leaking for a while, but it's just gotten horrible lately. The frame rail is covered in PS fluid.



Oh yes, mine was terrible too..... It really let go right about the time I fixed the oil filter adapter. I went from one leak to another.... my driveway looked like an oil spill.


99 K3500 RCLB


 
daustin 
Contributor
Posts: 442

Age: 57
Loc: Woodstock, Ga
Reg: 12-03-08
08-10-17 05:11 AM - Post#2703626    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

I'd be tempted to run the Rotella 15w40 just to see if it helps. Your in Az so no worrys about cold operation.

Don


1957 210 2d Post
1961 Bubbletop Impala
1965 Buick LeSabre
1968 327 Camaro
1968 427 COPO Corvette
1984 Monte Carlo SS
1969 RS Camaro
1969 GTO
1976 Camaro
1993 Silverado 3500 Dually 6.5TD
1993 GMC 1500
1994 9C1 Caprice
1997 Silverado 1500


 
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 217

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
08-10-17 08:56 AM - Post#2703642    
    In response to 454cid

Well, here in Yuma 85 with a breeze is winter. Man that 15-40 is some heavy stuff. I know guys running that in diesel trucks. Not sure I want to go that far down the hole. It's a full roller motor. I don't know exactly how well the lifters are designed, so if it's too thick they may not be happy. They are old after all.



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3805

Reg: 12-29-02
08-10-17 10:01 AM - Post#2703649    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

If you want to try a heavier weight oil then at least try to find something with a lower W number which is better during cold starts (90*F is still colder than running temps for the engine).

Any of the lower W oils would be better than 15W-40. I'm doubting 0W-40 is available in anything other than synthetic and would be pricey which you're trying to avoid, so maybe a 5W-40 blend can be found at a decent price. If not, then go 10W-40 which is available in a conventional for sure.

5W30 vs 10W30 will not change anything. Both are 30 "weight" at operating temperature.



 
Shepherd 
Contributor
Posts: 824

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
08-10-17 10:06 AM - Post#2703651    
    In response to Junkyardwarrior

20-50 Valvoline VR1 full synthetic.



 
2plus2 
Member
Posts: 1034
2plus2
Loc: Langley,BC
Reg: 02-03-05
08-10-17 06:31 PM - Post#2703695    
    In response to Shepherd

  • Shepherd Said:
20-50 Valvoline VR1 full synthetic.



I would not hesitate to run 20w50 in a 200k mile bbc esp when they are known to run hot and its still summer in az
I always ran 20w50 in every volvo esp the turbo cars and even in winter it was fine,it did not turn to molasses like everyone says will happen

69 Canadian Pontiac 2+2
factory L48 350 Chev,TH350,PW,PT
99 Silverado RCLB 4.8 NV4500 14BSF 4.10's locker 6" Procomp 35 bfg m/t's 9k winch cutout flares
07 Town Car Loaded,Tinted,Getting Bagged


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3665
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
08-10-17 07:24 PM - Post#2703703    
    In response to 2plus2

  • 2plus2 Said:
I always ran 20w50 in every volvo esp the turbo cars and even in winter it was fine,it did not turn to molasses like everyone says will happen



Just to some freezer tests. My deep freezer is -15°F. It might get that cold here once every 5-10 years. While that is an extreme temperature, you can definitely tell a difference in 5w30, straight 30 and 5w30 synthetic. I never did test 20w50. I would think 5w30 would be the same in conventional and synthetic, but the synthetic definitely pours faster.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
Junkyardwarrior 
Contributor
Posts: 217

Loc: Yuma AZ
Reg: 02-25-15
08-10-17 07:48 PM - Post#2703706    
    In response to bowtie44s

I appreciate the input everyone for sure. I just don't plan to throw 8 quarts of synthetic in this thing so I can add 4 between oil changes if it doesn't fix it.



 
2plus2 
Member
Posts: 1034
2plus2
Loc: Langley,BC
Reg: 02-03-05
08-10-17 10:38 PM - Post#2703718    
    In response to bowtie44s

  • bowtie44s Said:
  • 2plus2 Said:
I always ran 20w50 in every volvo esp the turbo cars and even in winter it was fine,it did not turn to molasses like everyone says will happen



Just to some freezer tests. My deep freezer is -15°F. It might get that cold here once every 5-10 years. While that is an extreme temperature, you can definitely tell a difference in 5w30, straight 30 and 5w30 synthetic. I never did test 20w50. I would think 5w30 would be the same in conventional and synthetic, but the synthetic definitely pours faster.



-15f I would be running 0w30 and have a oil pan heater along with block heaters
But the OP is in AZ so 70f winters


69 Canadian Pontiac 2+2
factory L48 350 Chev,TH350,PW,PT
99 Silverado RCLB 4.8 NV4500 14BSF 4.10's locker 6" Procomp 35 bfg m/t's 9k winch cutout flares
07 Town Car Loaded,Tinted,Getting Bagged


 
YOUNG57 
Contributor
Posts: 948

Loc: Tennessee
Reg: 12-06-10
08-12-17 08:49 PM - Post#2703954    
    In response to 2plus2

Unless your vehicle is under warranty or worried about clogging a catalectic converter try running Valvoline VR1 50W (or 20W50) mineral racing oil and a quart of Lucas Heavy-Duty Oil Stabilizer, they will greatly reduce oil consumption and burning through wore engine parts.



 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
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