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 Page 4 of 5 « First<2345
Username Post: what is this box thing on the drivers side of the engine bay?        (Topic#346360)
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-13-17 06:46 AM - Post#2717774    
    In response to sidworks

better than that lousy picture I formerly posted

and in the old picture, my grandfather was going through the gears and the clutch was somewhat pressed in when the picture was taken, i didn't realize this until he told me. so here is pictures of it with clutch fully released.

https://ibb.co/jRgQPb - from above

https://ibb.co/nuubxw - the lower arm of the zbar

https://ibb.co/d2CAqG - from above

https://ibb.co/dsKZHw from above

https://ibb.co/fLRXN6 - from above

https://ibb.co/d8QFaR - close up


Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-13-17 07:08 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bobschevytrucks.com Ecklers LMC Trucks

sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-13-17 08:29 AM - Post#2717786    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

doesn't show that much difference from what I saw before. what did the transmission guy say?
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-13-17 09:32 AM - Post#2717788    
    In response to sidworks

apparently nothing is wrong with the transmission. But, Its just odd that it still jammed on us without even pressing the clutch in with the truck off.

unless the transmission guy is lying or something.

my grandfather wanted me to mention that our clutch pedal isn't a "direct clutch" that goes directly through the floorboard like in much older models. Ours is just like modern trucks, and I'm not sure if that makes a difference on how the zbar should be situated?

this is our pedals

https://ibb.co/h8jE2F

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-13-17 09:40 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-13-17 11:34 AM - Post#2717805    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

will you get it in your head that it is a cobbled piece of crap. you seem to know that it is all right. good luck
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27084
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-13-17 01:27 PM - Post#2717820    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

  • Eric_Gary132 Said:
apparently nothing is wrong with the transmission. But, Its just odd that it still jammed on us without even pressing the clutch in with the truck off.


In case I didn't make this point sufficiently clear, "tooth block" is the most common cause of a transmission not going into gear when the truck is standing still and the engine isn't running. Tooth block is not a defect or a malfunction. It is an entirely normal occurrence when the transmission internal parts come to rest with gear or shift sleeve teeth not in the correct position to engage the teeth on the part they are supposed to mate with. Instead, the teeth just bump up against each other.

Nothing you can do by depressing the clutch pedal is going to make this worse. In fact, whenever I encounter tooth block, the first thing I do is to depress the clutch pedal. This usually allows the trans input shaft to rotate slightly so the parts I am wanting to shift can line up properly for tooth engagement.

If depressing the clutch pedal doesn't enable me to shift into gear, the next thing I do is start the engine. Then I let the clutch pedal up momentarily (so the gears can turn with the engine) and depress it again. This always allows me to get the trans into whatever gear I want.

  • Eric_Gary132 Said:
my grandfather wanted me to mention that our clutch pedal isn't a "direct clutch" that goes directly through the floorboard like in much older models. Ours is just like modern trucks, and I'm not sure if that makes a difference on how the zbar should be situated?



I have owned or worked on quite a few cars and trucks with a Z-bar and pedal arms going through the floor. To the best of my knowledge, Chevy never used this arrangement, but a lot of other GM (and non-GM) makes did use it. On those, the Z-mar mounting was pretty much the same as what you have now, one end on the frame and the other end on the engine or bellhousing. The only significant difference was the orientation of the Z-bar arm which was linked to the clutch pedal. Any misalignment issues on a non-factory installation would probably have to be dealt with in pretty much the same way as with yours.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 108
jktucker92
Reg: 02-05-17
12-14-17 08:59 AM - Post#2717894    
    In response to raycow

There has been a lot of discussion regarding the clutch actuation. Since the '62 would have had a hydraulic clutch, we know that the clutch linkage is not original to this truck. What the linkage came from really doesn't matter if it does the job. The bottom line is whether it moves the clutch release fork with the throw-out bearing far enough to release the clutch. In order to determine that, you need to get under the truck when the clutch is being released and measure the distance the end of the rod travels. I don't know what that measurement should be, but it can be measured on another truck that is known to work. You've had a few shops tell you that everything is fine, so I'm inclined to believe them that it should work.
As far as the shifting goes, what you've described may just be normal. Do you have much experience driving manual transmission cars? I've never heard the term "tooth block" before, but it fits. When you shift gears, you can think about sliding a square peg into a square hole. If the two aren't aligned properly, it won't go in. You either have to rotate the peg or the hole to be able to slide the peg into the hole. If neither side is moving (engine off and truck stopped) then it won't go in regardless of how hard you push. This is true of any manual transmission, including my '99 Camaro, which often requires 2 or three tries to get the car in reverse when I park it. Since it's a splined shaft, and not a square peg, the gears only have to move about 20 degrees to align. They're also tapered, so you don't have to be exactly lined up at first as the gears will self-align to a certain extent. If the truck is stopped with the clutch released and you try to shift into a gear, the input shaft will move slightly. When I shift into reverse in my '99 Camaro, if it doesn't go in at first, I will often shift into another gear just to move the input shaft slightly which often allows it to go into reverse. If that doesn't work, I let the clutch out and back in briefly to spin the input shaft and allow the gears to line up.
One thing to realize is the granny low gear and reverse are not synchronized. Before "synchros" were standard on transmissions, you had to "double-clutch" to shift gears (read the wikipedia page on double-clutching for a good description). Because of this, it is more difficult to shift into either gear as they have to be better aligned before you try. In general, you only use granny gear (1st) when getting started with a very heavy load, or if you want to go very slow. I always started my truck in 2nd gear when I had my SM-420.



 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-14-17 09:58 AM - Post#2717900    
    In response to jktucker92

well, Ray spoke with my grandfather and concluded that the granny gear and reverse should go in when the truck is at a dead stop, it should not lock out to the point where you literally cannot get into the gears. I'm talking about when the truck is running by the way, not when it is off.

This even happened to us with going into 3rd gear on the road with cars behind us and all that.

and now i know its because some guy named gomer pyle put the transmission and linkage in there and he did did it wrong and crappy.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-14-17 10:02 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27084
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-14-17 10:16 AM - Post#2717902    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

Eric, I just explained in considerable detail about why you might not be able to get the trans into gear when the truck is standing still. More to the point, I also explained that this was a PERFECTLY NORMAL condition, not a defect or malfunction, and that as long as you can disengage your clutch, which you CAN, the problem IS NOT caused by your badly cobbled clutch linkage. If you still refuse to believe me about this, then I leave you to the mercy of the others on the forum, because I am exiting from this thread PERMANENTLY.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-14-17 10:38 AM - Post#2717905    
    In response to raycow

wheres the polite guy who spoke with my grandfather?

alright, then you'd better let your friend Ron, who keeps telling me and barking at me that its the cobbled linkage that is causing our issues, know that as well, would ya please?

and we were at NO dead stop when trying to go into 3rd gear with cars behind us might I add and the fricken gear locked out on us and its a synchronized gear.

You old timers are contradicting each other and changing your stories around




and here's a quote from YOU back in July

""If the truck is MOVING, you will need to double clutch if you want to get the trans into 1st gear without grinding.

If the truck is standing still and the clutch is disengaging normally, you should ALWAYS be able to get the trans into 1st or reverse without grinding and without any special clutch tricks. Just push in the clutch pedal and wait a second or two for the transmission parts to stop turning. Then shift into 1st or reverse. The slope of the street (or driveway) should not make any difference as long as the truck is standing still.

Ray""

AND

""With the truck standing still and the engine idling in neutral, push in the clutch pedal and try to shift into 1st or reverse.""

all taken from this thread

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...

we are rookies, we took it to the experts as my grandfather explained. They said the bell-housing and everything else is put in correct and they said its the tranny causing problems, but the transmission guy said nothing is wrong with the transmission.

we are just the middle men here. even the experts at these shops are stumped. This is why we are so confused and frustrated.



Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-14-17 02:49 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
hilandr451 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3828
hilandr451
Age: 55
Loc: Anna Texas
Reg: 01-02-02
12-14-17 11:04 AM - Post#2717907    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

Eric - chill, man! We're only trying to help!

....and take it easy on Gomer, he only passed away a few weeks ago.

-The Hilander.
Silver 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab 2WD 5.3L
"Rattle can primer red" 1966 C20 Custom Camper 5.7L, 700 R4 trans 410 diff. front disc, p/s
Project Pics


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27084
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-14-17 11:42 AM - Post#2717910    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

Ok, ok, ok, it is possible that I wasn't correctly understanding you earlier.

This can be cleared up with one question. Conditions as follows: Truck standing still, transmission in neutral, engine at normal idling speed. Push the clutch pedal to the floor, wait 5 seconds, then shift into 1st or reverse. Does the trans make grinding noises?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-14-17 11:49 AM - Post#2717911    
    In response to raycow

my grandfather is going to go out there and test it and we will get back to you on that.





Needles


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-14-17 01:04 PM - Post#2717914    
    In response to raycow

okay he tested it in his driveway and there was no grinding at all. We did what you said. Got the engine to regular idle and pressed the clutch in for 5 or more seconds and attempted to go into 1st gear and it jammed on him as always on compound low and reverse locked out on him once during this 5 minute test he did.

When I say it locks out, I mean it literally locks out like walking into a stone wall, there's no getting into the gear.

he went to 4th, 3rd and then attempted 1st and it went in once, but locked out again after that.

But yet again, we should not have to do gear tricks or clutch tricks to get it into these gears.

Oh and we have all the paperwork from the shops we took it to if you ever want an image of it.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-14-17 02:50 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27084
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
12-14-17 05:51 PM - Post#2717963    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

Just to be sure we are all speaking the same language here, what you are calling compound low is 1st gear to me. You will not be able to shift into 2nd, 3rd or 4th at all if the clutch isn't disengaging because the synchronizers will prevent it. 1st and reverse are the only unsynchronized gears. Those are the ones which will grind if the clutch isn't fully disengaged.

If you are not hearing any grinding when you try to shift into 1st or reverse gear, then your clutch is disengaging cleanly. If it weren't, you would definitely hear grinding every time you tried to shift into 1st or reverse. This means that despite how bad your clutch linkage looks, it is not the source of your problem.

However, in that case I think you should get a second opinion from someone with hands-on experience. That is, someone who regularly drives a manual transmission truck and knows what it should feel and sound like.

If you get the same answer from an experienced driver, this puts the blame back onto the transmission, although I have no clue as to what the fault might be. Now more than ever, I strongly believe that the PO went through this exact same process before deciding to sell the truck. He just gave up on fixing it because he wasn't able to find out where the problem was either.

Have you asked the transmission shop to try driving the truck exactly the way it is now? If you haven't, I strongly suggest that you do. They might be able to hear or feel something that would give them some kind of direction of where to look.

If the trans shop comes up empty, things get really bad from here. You are left with two choices, and you might not like either one.

(1) Replace the complete transmission with another one that is known to be good. By that, I mean one that is known to work satisfactorily in a different truck. If that fixes the problem, you might have some claim against the trans shop so you won't have to absorb the entire cost yourself.

(2) Sell the truck as-is and follow in the footsteps of the PO. This might mean you have to take a huge loss on it.

If it were mine, I would take (1) over (2) because you have at least a possibility of some cost recovery.

As a final note of caution, please know I am stacking all of the above on your word that the trans DOES NOT GRIND when you try to shift into 1st or reverse with the truck standing still and the engine running. The last thing I want is for either one of us to walk away angry because of a misunderstanding.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-14-17 07:41 PM - Post#2717984    
    In response to raycow

Thanks Ray. We could try the different trans and maybe the particular one we have is simply a lemon or they may be screwing us I don't know. But, knowing the transmission rebuild guy, he may not refund any money. He won't even return or answer our calls anymore. But it's worth a shot definitely.

Sorry for the confusion about 1st gear. My grandfather usually refers to 1st gear as "compound low" or the "brownie gear" as well on some occasions.

Thanks for the information.


Eric



Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-15-17 05:56 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-15-17 12:25 PM - Post#2718032    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

A rookie theory I have is that the actual shaft that the gears slide onto is somehow defective in this transmission or worn out by age somehow.

Or the stick shift itself is worn out or defective where it meets the gears in the transmission.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-15-17 12:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-15-17 12:37 PM - Post#2718034    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

but you had it overhauled
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-15-17 01:29 PM - Post#2718036    
    In response to sidworks

Yes, but it was what the guy called a "soft overhaul". He didn't replace everything, only the things he thought were necessary.

He led us to believe it was a literal complete rebuild. It wasn't.

Needles


 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-15-17 02:12 PM - Post#2718039    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

what did he do with it. tell us. You haven't really told us anything really up to this point. how did they charge you for this soft overhaul. there are only 2 ways to do a job: properly or not at all. was this fellow a proper shop or someone out of their backyard? price usually dictates though what kind of job that the customer wants done and they usually find one for what they are willing to pay. most will not want to pay for what it really costs to rebuild one of these trans properly or the attitude is taken well it is an older vehicle, what can we get away with and then when there is still a problem they will wash their hands of it and seeing that you are a very naive young fellow they just might have just gotten you to bend over . If you have ever seen the movie "Deliverance" then you will understand what I just mentioned.
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-15-17 02:33 PM - Post#2718041    
    In response to sidworks

Well maybe they did. You don't know me well enough to make judgements like that. Only judgement that is true though is that I'm currently cruddy when it comes to anything mechanical related.

But, my grandfather is no naive young fellow...he is 73 years old and has been screwed over plenty of times in his younger days and learned from it. He is very cautious when it comes to things like this. My grandfather was the one who talked to these shops, not me.

And no it wasn't any backyard mechanic. it was a place called Manuel transmission warehouse in Sacramento. Its a professional shop that's been around since the early 1980s. We did a ton of research in finding legitimate places that have good reviews and a good reputation. We did all the research on our end.

But i will get the paperwork when i find it so i can let you know what exactly they did.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-18-17 04:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-15-17 03:07 PM - Post#2718051    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

perhaps I don't but I have been following you on here
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-16-17 04:41 PM - Post#2718169    
    In response to sidworks

There's 2 shops we dealt with mainly. One, the main shop, removed the transmission, put a new clutch in and did general repairs and the other shop is the rebuild guys shop, called "Manuel transmission warehouse" in Sacramento, regular shops send Manuel transmissions to him for rebuilding.

There was also a 3rd shop involved, clutch-mart in Sacramento, who checked the linkage, bell housing and the clutch, but said everything is disengaging even though its a bit ugly and cobbled in there. So, they recommended that we take it back to Manuel transmission warehouse, which we did, through the main shop.

okay, so here is what the guy from the transmission warehouse did on our SM 465 transmission.

He repaired and replaced bad synchros, seals, the reverse idler gear, 1-2 slider, 2nd gear (the upper gear) and bushings in the gear shifter.

He also put a different top shifter on there, which costed $250 alone. The total cost was just over $1,000 for the tranny alone, not including the cost of the clutch, flywheel and gear oil. The total amount we spent on shifting related issues was $2,242.

that's everything he did, as my paper work says. the only actual gear he replaced was 2nd gear. We know this because we asked for our parts back and there's only one with slanted teeth on it.

He did look at it a second time and we're not sure if he half assed it and just quickly looked at it or inspected everything very thoroughly.

Also since we had a new flywheel put in besides a new clutch. we tried, but can't find a fitting flywheel cover for it. how important is this and should we do this as soon as possible?

The shop might have put synthetic oil in the tranny, is that bad for it? we told them to put 80-90 oil on our first visit to them back in the summer. But, the second time we took it to them, they may have put in their synthetic oil.

The main shop we went to is big on synthetic oil.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-16-17 08:36 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-16-17 08:37 PM - Post#2718206    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

did they replace all of the trans bearings?
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-16-17 08:51 PM - Post#2718209    
    In response to sidworks

Some of them, forgot how many but I saw a few when we got our parts back. But it wasn't written on the Paperwork they gave us.

What I know the guy did do was repaired and replaced bad synchros, seals, the reverse idler gear, 1-2 slider, 2nd gear (the upper gear) and bushings in the gear shifter as the paperwork shows.

I'll take a look when I get a chance at the parts We got back. I'll snap a shot for better description of the parts which were replaced.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-16-17 09:04 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-16-17 10:25 PM - Post#2718214    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

the main thing these trannies need is a complete bearing and seal kit otherwise they are pretty well bulletproof unless they get totally abused. tolerances get greater with bearing wear and that causes most problems with them.
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-17-17 06:11 AM - Post#2718242    
    In response to sidworks

Thank you for letting me know about the bearings. We will look into that further.

This is my own rookie idea, but digging a bit deeper, do you think its a possibility that the actual shaft that the gears slide onto could be defective or damaged? And maybe the gear shifter itself as well? Or anything else that might be defective or damaged?

I'm just considering every possibility I can think of with the tranny and all the parts which could be defective or damaged.

As my grandfather tells me, everything's has to be fine tuned and made correctly from the start or else it will always give issues. He went through this with a Cadillac he owned in the 80s through the 90s. it always gave issues and was pretty much a lemon because something in the factory was done incorrect when they made it, as the very experienced people such as yourself concluded about the car, the same things needed to be repaired over and over by experienced mechanics. One of the things he told me he'd have to replace over and over was the 4th gear fuse. It'd work for a while then break.

There was even a light in the car that acted up and even the trained electricians couldn't figure out what was causing the problem with that light and was deemed to be ultimately defective from factory in the way the whole system for that light was supposed to function properly.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-17-17 03:27 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-17-17 03:39 PM - Post#2718289    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

here is a price list of parts and exchanges
https://www.midwesttrans.com/SM465_Manual_Transmis ...
as I said it will depend on the abuse given to the trans as to what can be wrong, but in these trans it is usually just a case of bearings and seals. synchro rings are also a more common replacement as they are brass and they are the parts designed to be replaced as they are of a softer material.
yes you can have wear in the shifter forks under the top cover which will make for more slpo in the shifter but doubt that it would cause the problem which you say that you are experiencing. a good rebuilder would pick that up though on a rebuild
I can drive one of these things all day without having to use the clutch unless I have to come to a stop and can get around that by killing the engine and using the starter to get the engine going in first. these are basically a simple brute type of a trans
if you run them low on gear oil you are going to get hot and when things get hot the bull gear will jump the heifer gear.
as for synthetic gear oil I cannot tell you unless I search for info on it but you can do that as well as i can.
there are still linkage problems that you have that can give you the symptoms that you are having which I spotted in the first pictures on you clutch mechanism which shows the linkage on top of the zbar. when I get the time I will repost and explain it a little further.
diagnosing a problem on the internet is not the same as being there and being able to feel the problem for oneself. one can observe some of the problem areas and the linkage is one of them for certain and will be an ongoing problem if you leave it the way it is. you have replaced the clutch assembly and overhauled the trans and it is still doing the same thing and you have seemed to have spent a few $ doing it. I would really go to a hydraulic set-up as Captain fab puts together and have a peace of mind in that area. it is not that expensive or that complex to install and get working.
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-17-17 07:20 PM - Post#2718308    
    In response to sidworks

My grandfather is going to talk to you sometime, but before he talks to you, he would like your input on something. With our truck, when person # 1 drives it, it drives fine. When person #2 drives it, it gives them no trouble as well but maybe locks out once, But when person #3 drives it, the gears lock out on them and it starts giving them a lot of trouble. With this analogy, we see that its not consistently giving them the same issues, for every person who drives it.

Wouldn't the shifting problems be consistent if it were the linkage causing the issues?

These are my grandfather questions, not mine.

Oh, and we asked the transmission rebuild guy and he is going to test drive our truck himself, as he is willing to do so. He is also going to replace the orings that he thinks might help as well.

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-17-17 07:43 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
sidworks 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3478

Age: 72
Loc: Sidney, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
12-17-17 07:46 PM - Post#2718312    
    In response to Eric_Gary132

are you person nbr 3?
how much free play is there in the clutch pedal.
when the clutch pedal is fully depressed; how far up does it come before the clutch starts to engage?
ron

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?208929-...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?220902-...
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156542-...


Edited by sidworks on 12-17-17 07:47 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Eric_Gary132 
Contributor
Posts: 278

Loc: northern California
Reg: 01-27-17
12-17-17 08:34 PM - Post#2718318    
    In response to sidworks

there's around 2 to 3 inches of releasing the clutch before it engages.

we had 2 shops drive it and at first they told us it drove fine when they test drove it and we know it does not. Sometimes it will work and sometimes it will not and it repeats this process.

oh and correct me if I'm wrong but, I belive the zbar in our truck is a 67-72 zbar or a 73-84 zbar, not the correct years to use with mechanical linkage in this truck, which you said was a 63-66 zbar. Which would explain the incorrect position of the arm of the zbar in this truck, the upper arm in particular that the upper rod connects to.

My rookie idea is that they took any old zbar they could find and forced it in or somehow cut it shorter to fit just enough to connect the rods to it, rather than getting the correct parts.

I found a 63-66 clutch zbar here:

https://www.classicparts.com/63-66-Clutch-Cross-Sh ...

Needles


Edited by Eric_Gary132 on 12-17-17 09:19 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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