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LMC Truck



Username Post: 50 cent hose clamp almost caused blown transmission?        (Topic#346353)
TwentyBucks 
Contributor
Posts: 327

Loc: Cape Cod, MA
Reg: 11-06-07
08-02-17 07:39 AM - Post#2702468    

Out driving my 03 Suburban the other day when I felt the transmission slip a little in traffic. Drove another 50 yards and nothing, engine revving in drive but not going anywhere. I immediately pulled over and found transmission fluid all over the front passenger tire, all over the chassis, fluid all over the grill and all down the passenger side of the vehicle front to back. On the ground a huge puddle of transmission fluid. After looking around I found that the cheap hose clamp that clamps the transmission fluid line to the tranny fluid cooler in front of the radiator had come off allowing the hose to pop off which caused the loss of fluid. Had it towed back to the house, put new clamps on the tranny cooler, top and bottom and found that I had lost 6 quarts out of the 12 quart capacity of the transmission. I was really worried that I might have fried the transmission but I was lucky because after refilling the transmission I took it out on a 20 mile ride, highway and city and no problems with the transmission. It turned out that the hose clamp has rusted through and was split in two pieces. Glad there must have been enough fluid left or the fact that I pulled over quickly enough so as not to damage the transmission. If you are driving an older vehicle like mine you might want to check on the condition of the tranny cooler clamps.

2010 Cadillac CTS
2003 Suburban 4X4
98 K1500 5.0L
2002 Honda Civic, commuter car


 
LMC Trucks
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28442
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
08-02-17 10:05 AM - Post#2702483    
    In response to TwentyBucks

Shouldn't be any clamps on the transmission cooling lines unless the aux cooler is aftermarket.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3761
bowtie44s
Age: 34
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
08-02-17 10:10 AM - Post#2702486    
    In response to TwentyBucks

That is something very important that most people including myself won't think of. Thanks for the tip and glad you caught it.

I built a 383 about 8 years ago. Just fired it up for the first time with open headers and heard a knock. I shut it down and saw coolant dripping out of the right side collector. I figured it was a head gasket so I pulled the head. A 50cent hose clamp had gotten in the intake and the screw got between the piston and cylinder and gouged the cylinder deep enough to hit water. Pieces of that thing got in 4 cylinders. 2 cylinders on the left bank and 2 on the right. Don't ask me how, but it did.

A 50 cent hose clamp can do a lot of damage whether broken or in the wrong place.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511inĀ³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
JaVeRo 
Member
Posts: 353

Loc: East Texas
Reg: 02-02-06
08-03-17 06:10 AM - Post#2702641    
    In response to bowtie44s

My wife's blazer did about the same thing. It was the spring clip with three ears that holds the cooler line into the radiator. I had replaced the radiator about a year ago and apparently didn't get the line into the quick connect all the way.

7 quarts later it was ready to go again. I guess it dumped so fast that it didn't have time to burn up the transmission.

James

2003 S10 Blazer 4wd (wife's)
2001 S10 Crew Cab (wife's mail truck)
1996 K1500 (mine)
1979 GMC 3/4 ton 2wd 4spd with a "Gilley's" bumper sticker, my first brand new truck.
2006 K1500 Company Truck
2006 K2500 NV4500 4.10's


 
62chevy427 
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2084
62chevy427
Loc: laurens sc
Reg: 04-13-06
08-03-17 07:11 PM - Post#2702734    
    In response to TwentyBucks

i always check the clamps every oil change. if there is room, i use 2 clamps per hose end


56 bel air ((since 2002)
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TwentyBucks 
Contributor
Posts: 327

Loc: Cape Cod, MA
Reg: 11-06-07
08-05-17 03:05 AM - Post#2702898    
    In response to someotherguy

Yes, it was an aftermarket cooler. The transmission blew about 3 years ago and the shop thought that the cooler was clogged which caused the trans to overheat and burn up. I had them replace all the cooler lines and put in the new cooler. Too bad a cheap hose clamp can cause a big problem. But like JaVeRo I guess I was lucky in that it dumped the fluid so fast it didn't have time to fry the transmission.

2010 Cadillac CTS
2003 Suburban 4X4
98 K1500 5.0L
2002 Honda Civic, commuter car


 
thx1138v2 
Contributor
Posts: 127

Reg: 05-01-14
08-06-17 03:52 PM - Post#2703089    
    In response to TwentyBucks

That old saying, "Don't sweat the small stuff - and it's all small stuff" may work great for sales but I find that "Take care of the details and the big things will take care of themselves" applies more to engineering.

I remember an F1 race some years ago when the leader lost the race 2 laps from the end because the oil plug came out. That's an expensive detail to mess up.



 
TwentyBucks 
Contributor
Posts: 327

Loc: Cape Cod, MA
Reg: 11-06-07
08-09-17 06:51 AM - Post#2703505    
    In response to thx1138v2

My Suburban will warn of low engine oil level in the DIC so you don't blow your engine due to low oil. Why not the transmission? When I blew the transmission 3 years ago I was driving back from Virginia and a seal let go which caused the transmission to lose oil very slowly. As more and more fluid was lost the transmission got hotter and hotter until it fried itself. I'm planning on a new Suburban next year, seriously considering installing an aftermarket trans temperature gauge.

2010 Cadillac CTS
2003 Suburban 4X4
98 K1500 5.0L
2002 Honda Civic, commuter car


 
1983G20Van 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 3655

Loc: Bedford, Texas, USA
Reg: 11-13-02
08-12-17 06:24 PM - Post#2703941    
    In response to TwentyBucks

  • TwentyBucks Said:
My Suburban will warn of low engine oil level in the DIC so you don't blow your engine due to low oil. Why not the transmission? When I blew the transmission 3 years ago I was driving back from Virginia and a seal let go which caused the transmission to lose oil very slowly. As more and more fluid was lost the transmission got hotter and hotter until it fried itself. I'm planning on a new Suburban next year, seriously considering installing an aftermarket trans temperature gauge.



I have a gauge on my Express van I added and when I added it I used a port that came in my deep aluminum pan. From experience that is a bad idea. If you do install a gauge make sure it is on the outlet line for the cooler. The torque converter is the hotest part and the cooler circuit feeds off the waste oil from the converter. I was pulling a travel trailer a few months ago with my 1997 Express van. It has a 4L85E and a factory auxiliary cooler plumbed in after the radiator cooler. I ran into a situation where a burned plug wire almost nuked my 85E. When the PCM senses engine misfire it will not lock the converter. My Express van has the factory high stall 4L80E converter in it. I have enough gear that I tow in OD with the 85E. I was running along about 65 mph and got the converter so hot it melted the rubber line that is crimped between the hard line and the line entering the radiator. It also melted the fan shroud as well as the oring in the quick disconnect at the radiator. Suddenly I had a huge smoke cloud billowing out from under and I pulled right off. Luckily I was not far from home and my brother picked up the trailer with his Tahoe and I had a wrecker tow the Van to my shop. Turns out the cooler system kept the fluid temp in the pan normal although the converter got hot enough to turn the fluid jet black. I ended up flushing the trans by pouring new fluid in while I ran a hose to the cooler outlet into a bucket. I then ran it until it just starting spitting fluid, pulled the pan and changed the filter. I replaced the hose with a new section of rubber hose that I double clamped on both sides with the better syle worm clamps used for EFI fuel hoses. Filled the pan back up with fluid. I changed the plug wires and it has been running well. A stupid $30 set of plug wires nearly cost me a transmission or worse the fluid could have caught fire on the headers and burned the Van to the ground with the trailer attached.


1983 G20 Van, 350 TPI, Ported 906 Vortecs, Edelbrock 3817 Base, ASM oversize runners. Reed Custom Roller cam, 700r4, 12 bolt with 3.08 gears, Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers, true duals


Edited by 1983G20Van on 08-12-17 06:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
TwentyBucks 
Contributor
Posts: 327

Loc: Cape Cod, MA
Reg: 11-06-07
08-15-17 04:23 AM - Post#2704282    
    In response to 1983G20Van

Wow that's crazy, glad you didn't fry your transmission. Thanks for the advice as to where to locate the transmission temperature gauge. So many things external to the transmission can cause problems.

2010 Cadillac CTS
2003 Suburban 4X4
98 K1500 5.0L
2002 Honda Civic, commuter car


 
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