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Username Post: Chinese Made Headlight Switches        (Topic#346034)
GreatNorthWoods 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 706
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 75
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
07-15-17 06:27 AM - Post#2700137    

My headlight switch went out recently so I purchased a replacement from NAPA. The old switch knob went in easily before I installed the switch but I could not get it in afterward. After futching around with it for a couple of days I took the switch back to NAPA and bought one on Ebay. Same problem. I don't know if it had anything to do with it but both switches were Chinese made. Anyone else have a similar problem? I have now ordered a NOS AC Delco switch like my old one which I hope to have better luck with.

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 350 Crate Engine,700-R4, Vintage Air, EZ Wire, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, 4-Wheel Disc Brakes, Nova 10-bolt, Chassis engineering front suspension.


 

VANDENPLAS 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1613
VANDENPLAS
Age: 37
Loc: ontario canada
Reg: 07-29-09
07-15-17 08:40 AM - Post#2700145    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

Are you talking about the plastic pull knob being hard to get on?

I've seen it at work also installing a/m headlamp switchs that the plastic knob does is not threaded and you have to "cut" the threads by installing it onto the switch

Less one step in manufacturing and a cost saving

I see it all the time at work with cheap switches and pots failing Or just simply falling apart in short time where as the oem stuff is much beefier and lasts

" The chain in those handcuffs is made of high tensile steel. It will take you ten minutes to hack through it with this, if your lucky. You can hack through your ankle in fivei



In the land of the blind the one eyed man is king 👑


 
GreatNorthWoods 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 706
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 75
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
07-15-17 09:16 AM - Post#2700151    
    In response to VANDENPLAS

Yes, I'm referring to the shaft that goes into the switch on which the knob is fastened.

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 350 Crate Engine,700-R4, Vintage Air, EZ Wire, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, 4-Wheel Disc Brakes, Nova 10-bolt, Chassis engineering front suspension.


 
53sd 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 93

Reg: 12-08-08
07-15-17 11:03 AM - Post#2700164    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

Yes,I had a similar experience.
The shaft/knob went in,and worked,with the switch in hand,but wouldn't go back in a second time.
I found,because the switch internals were now in the on/out position,the shaft wouldn't go in,pushing the little release button,made no difference.
I used a small screwdriver to return internal slide to off position.
Then shaft went in like it's suppose too.
Then remounted the switch in the dash.



 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 111

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
07-15-17 01:00 PM - Post#2700169    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

After I replaced my second headlight switch in two years (12 volt conversion) I put relays on my headlights. bobt



 
wbeaton 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 626
wbeaton
Age: 43
Loc: Hamilton, ON
Reg: 03-07-14
07-15-17 07:09 PM - Post#2700198    
    In response to bobt

  • bobt Said:
After I replaced my second headlight switch in two years (12 volt conversion) I put relays on my headlights. bobt



I just had to do the same thing. I paid top dollar for the 12V reproduction switch and it didn't last a year before it started to fail. I even had to glue the knob back on it. The shaft can be a challenge to take out and put back in. The relays seemed to do the trick.

1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 Door Sedan
1954 235 with Isky Cam, Shaved Head
Dual Carter YF 787S Carbs on Offenhauser Intake
Split Manifold Dual Exhaust
3 Speed with 3.55 Differential
12V Conversion with Alternator
Pertronix Ignition


 
GreatNorthWoods 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 706
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 75
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
07-16-17 03:32 AM - Post#2700218    
    In response to 53sd


Returned the internal slide to the off position? Not sure I follow that. That's probably what I needed to do on mine.

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 350 Crate Engine,700-R4, Vintage Air, EZ Wire, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, 4-Wheel Disc Brakes, Nova 10-bolt, Chassis engineering front suspension.


 
53sd 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 93

Reg: 12-08-08
07-16-17 06:28 AM - Post#2700228    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods


That's the part inside that slides in and out when the knob is pulled out and pushed in.
Insert screwdriver down the shaft hole.
Screwdriver needs to be small enough too go thru rheostat triangle hole,long enough to push slide all the way in.
Finess [gentle wiggle] like a worn key/lock.
If you still have the original switch,bend up the 6 or 8 little metal tabs,and pry the bakelite part out of the metal case, take a look inside,to see how the button release bit catches the shaft end slot.



 
Indyhac 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 40

Loc: Indiana
Reg: 06-21-09
07-16-17 06:44 AM - Post#2700231    
    In response to bobt

bobt, can you give some detail about installing relays on your headlights? I recently bought a '50 Chevy that's already been converted to 12 volt. What kind of relays and where in the electrical system should I install them? Thanks, Scott



 
rrausch 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13415
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
07-16-17 09:07 AM - Post#2700237    
    In response to Indyhac

Here's a schematic that might help. This is how I've run headlight relays, EXCEPT this doesn't appear to be a Hi/Lo headlight system. So when I did this on my cars and trucks, I ran two relays, with the Hot-to-86 coming off the dimmer switch out put wires. I mounted the relays on my inner fenders.



1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
53sd 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 93

Reg: 12-08-08
07-16-17 10:24 AM - Post#2700245    
    In response to Indyhac

I mounted my relays on the inside of the rad support,drivers side.Also mounted the horn relay there.The horn relay I used is from a 60's Chev,it has a" buss bar" type power [12v]strip.
I ran the 10g red hot from the alt output to this strip then on to the bat.
Then powered up the relays from the horn relay hot terminal,also put 2 circuit breakers,in the hot to the light relays.
Then covered the whole assembly with plexy-glass,to protect the exposed hot terminals.



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 26071
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
07-16-17 12:30 PM - Post#2700252    
    In response to rrausch

Rrausch, I think your diagram might be for add-on fog or driving lights. The on/off switch normally wouldn't need a ground connection unless it has a built-in indicator lamp.

Ray

There's a line between good and evil no wider than a razor's edge - D.S. James Hathaway quoting from The Night Keeper


 
wbeaton 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 626
wbeaton
Age: 43
Loc: Hamilton, ON
Reg: 03-07-14
07-16-17 06:00 PM - Post#2700281    
    In response to raycow

The relays are nothing special. Any parts store will have them. I wired the high beams to one relay and the low beams to the other. I jumped the power from the horn relay. It was all pretty simple to do.

Attachment: IMG_0414.JPG (2.15 MB) 6 View(s)




1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 Door Sedan
1954 235 with Isky Cam, Shaved Head
Dual Carter YF 787S Carbs on Offenhauser Intake
Split Manifold Dual Exhaust
3 Speed with 3.55 Differential
12V Conversion with Alternator
Pertronix Ignition


 
rrausch 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13415
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
07-16-17 06:05 PM - Post#2700282    
    In response to raycow

Ray, I think you're right--I couldn't find a decent diagram for a headlight system. This diagram answers the question of where the #'s 85, 86, 87 and 30 spade terminals connect. All 4-prong, automotive relays will be numbered the same.

But if anyone wants to do it, just run your two relays from the dimmer switch out-put wires. The out-put voltage from the dimmer switch (Hi or Lo) will throw the "switch" in the relay and power on either the Hi or Lo headlights. Since it only takes a small amount of power to switch the relay, the heavy load is taken off the headlight switch, and placed on the relays.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
Bel Air kiwi 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3208
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
07-17-17 12:43 AM - Post#2700308    
    In response to rrausch

Hi Robert and Ray. I agree that that is a single beam circuit, or fog lights, if you like.

Two relays is a good solution. A couple of important things is to keep the relays dry so that they don't corrode inside, and the second and probably more important is to ensure that you use a relay with double the continuous rating of the circuit.

So a 15 Amp horn needs a 30 Amp relay. A single electric fan may be 20 Amps so go for a 45 Amp relay, Two fans could be 35 Amps so go for a 60 Amp relay. Close enough is good enough there, as long as you are close to double.

Most relays that are commonly used in cars step in 15 Amp increments. So 15, 30, 45, 60 Amp.

Breaker yards are good sources for small Relay and fuse packs with covers, and cheap spares.
The wiring pattern is international so interchange is high there.

The trade off with relays is that you are substituting complexity and number of connections for much lower load in interior switches.

Cheers Kiwi



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 07-17-17 12:49 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
GreatNorthWoods 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 706
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 75
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
07-22-17 04:19 AM - Post#2700896    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

I found an excellent video by American Autowire on the headlight switch problem which fully explains why the stem will sometimes not lock in place. It's all in the alignment of the switch with the stem. After watching this video I was able to get mine working again. Anyone having a problem getting the knob and stem back into the switch should watch this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWFHWSEPCso

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 350 Crate Engine,700-R4, Vintage Air, EZ Wire, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, 4-Wheel Disc Brakes, Nova 10-bolt, Chassis engineering front suspension.


 

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