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Username Post: Removing spot welds        (Topic#345889)
Ole61 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 149
Ole61
Age: 55
Loc: Ohio
Reg: 08-11-16
07-08-17 07:33 AM - Post#2699194    

Hello everyone,would like to know if anybody has a trick for spot welds,I bought a spot weld cutter but it likes to scoot around a lot tried to center punch spot weld but that didn't help much any tricks or ideas would be appreciated,I have 111 spot welds to do thanks Ole 61



 




monty56 
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1401
monty56
Loc: Chandler(it's a dry heat)...
Reg: 04-26-04
07-10-17 09:28 AM - Post#2699446    
    In response to Ole61

If you aren't saving the material behind the spot weld use a "Bullet" bit drill bit. I used a small bit to put a dot where the Eastwood spot weld cutter tip would follow.

Monty
'56 3100 Short Stepside Someday
2001 Chevy Suburban 2500
2009 Saturn Vue w/20's

Member: Desert Classic Chevy's Inc.
Monty's 56 Truck
Avatar is my Truck


 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 13995
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
07-10-17 07:07 PM - Post#2699532    
    In response to monty56

If you aren't saving the top metal, just use a whizz wheel to grind away the top layer. Just go slow at first so you don't grind away the lower layer. You'll get used to doing it pretty quickly. You'll be able to see the layers pretty readily. If you aren't saving the bottom layer, just drill the spot weld out. Spot weld cutters aren't often needed unless you need to save the bottom layer and reuse the top layer for whatever reason. I use Blair cutters. They look like a mini hole saw with a spring loaded centering point. You can change the cutter. It screws onto an arbor and they are double sided. They will do quite a few welds. I usually drill a shallow indent with a 1/8" bit to keep the cutter from walking.

Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17164
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
07-11-17 10:04 AM - Post#2699614    
    In response to wagonman100

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


 
Ole61 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 149
Ole61
Age: 55
Loc: Ohio
Reg: 08-11-16
07-11-17 06:50 PM - Post#2699693    
    In response to grumpyvette





 
Ole61 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 149
Ole61
Age: 55
Loc: Ohio
Reg: 08-11-16
07-11-17 06:53 PM - Post#2699694    
    In response to grumpyvette

Thanks for the replys and tips,very good articles grumpy read a few,gonna read the rest of them



 
Pistol 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3680
Pistol
Age: 71
Loc: Terryville, Ct.
Reg: 11-11-02
08-16-17 04:29 PM - Post#2704489    
    In response to Ole61

I always drill the center of the spot welds with an 1/8 drill and the used http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spot-Weld-Cutter- Drill-Bit... works great for me and I try to gauge my drilling to one layer of sheet metal.

Pete
Awl speeling misteaks r myn
57 BelAir 2DRHT My-Pics


 
Tom_Kochtanek 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 404
Tom_Kochtanek
Loc: Columbia, Missouri, USA
Reg: 11-19-02
11-26-17 10:34 AM - Post#2715783    
    In response to Pistol

A buddy of mine recommended using a plasma cutter set on stun to attack the top of the circle. Here is his wording:

"Use the plasma on the spot welds. Turn it down to stun and draw a circle around the spot weld. It should only penetrate the top panel……then pop it loose with the separator blade. Worked for me."

I haven't tried this myself, I did it the old fashioned way with the tool and a drill...




 




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