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Username Post: Brakes, Disc Recommendations        (Topic#345736)
Indyhac 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 50

Loc: Indiana
Reg: 06-21-09
11-22-17 09:12 PM - Post#2715412    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Kiwi,
Haven't gotten that far along yet. If the '51 rear drums don't match up, is there any reason that I can't put the '51 backing plates, cylinders, shoes, etc. on and then use the '50 rear drums?



 

Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3813
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
11-22-17 09:37 PM - Post#2715414    
    In response to Indyhac

Hi Scott, I would pass this one over to Ray. I only did the front on mine as I ditched the torque tube. From memory GM used a different flange size on the Huck Axles Vs the Bendix axles.
If our recollection is correct on this then the smart fix is to turn down the axle as the later drum is all anyone repro's.

Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27090
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
11-23-17 04:33 AM - Post#2715434    
    In response to Indyhac

Scott, I have never installed Huck drums on Bendix brakes, but I have done the reverse, mainly because of parts availability and/or cost. Because of manufacturing tolerances (and the possibility that some of the drums might have been aftermarket rather than OE), some interfered with the backing plate and others did not. The ones which interfered were easily fixed with some minor machining on the drum. I am not talking about the center hole here, but the rib/flange on the open side of the drum. The machine work didn't cost me anything because I had a friend with a lathe who would let me use it when I needed to.

I realize that machining is probably what you are trying to avoid, so my best suggestion is that you first try the Huck drums for fit. Since you already have them, this will cost you nothing. If they clear the backing plate you are home free. If not, then you can make the decision about machining.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Indyhac 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 50

Loc: Indiana
Reg: 06-21-09
11-24-17 05:11 PM - Post#2715602    
    In response to raycow

Thanks Ray, I'm going to check out the interference issue in the next week or 2. I think the drums are too large to machine on my lathe but I also have a friend with a shop who will let me use one of his larger lathes. I will let you know the results.

Scott



 
Indyhac 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 50

Loc: Indiana
Reg: 06-21-09
01-05-18 09:29 AM - Post#2720109    
    In response to Indyhac

Ray,
As of right now, I have only installed the front hardware from the '51. To install the rear Bendix stuff I will have to pull the axles and cut the 4 rivets that hold the '50 backing plates onto the differential housing. Then I would have to slot the holes in the '51 backing plate because the hole pattern is not the same. If I had known all this when I put the Powerglide pumpkin in I would have gotten the differential housing and put the whole unit in at that time. I'm just waiting for the front flex hoses to get to my parts store to finish installing the front brakes, adjusting, and bleeding them. If just adding the front Bendix system results in satisfactory braking improvement, I'll leave the Huck brakes on the rear. If not, I will tackle that job later! Scott



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27090
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
01-05-18 10:32 AM - Post#2720113    
    In response to Indyhac

Scott, after doing one Huck to Bendix conversion on the rear, I decided it just wasn't worth the bother to do it on any more cars. Are you aware that the parking brake cables will also need to be replaced?

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3813
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
01-05-18 07:50 PM - Post#2720171    
    In response to Indyhac

Hi Guys, that's how I ran my 48 PU for years. Bendix front, original Huck rears. Still a great improvement which isn't surprising as the front normally does about 60% plus of the stopping.
But your brake balance will be a bit a bit more front biased.

As you say it's easier to put in the whole later torque tube, than do the diff center and brakes separately.

A small under floor booster will work well with the Bendix/Huck rear combo. But it won't normally be big enough for discs later on.

Cheers Kiwi


48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
mahlmann 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1621
mahlmann
Age: 73
Loc: Las Cruces, NM
Reg: 01-20-11
01-06-18 04:18 PM - Post#2720271    
    In response to Indyhac

I did the rear brake Bendix upgrade on my '50 by replacing the entire rear axel assembly with a 3.55 rear end from a '54 Powerglide. I did need new parking brake cables because my old ones were unsalvageable. I think the whole job took less than 3 hours.

Mike Ahlmann
Las Cruces, NM
'50 Tin Woodies (two) Ramon and Willard
'58 Impala Sport Coupe
'69 El Camino SS-396
'07 Ford F150 to haul parts for above
'16 Ford Explorer 3.5 EcoBoost - Red Rocket


 

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