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Username Post: Stock heads replacemanet thin gasket CR?        (Topic#345719)
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
06-29-17 04:02 PM - Post#2698062    

Stock 70s 350. No boring, no decking.
260 comp cam
stock 4 relief flat top pistons.

Just got a pair of prob stage 1/2 worked 992/993 heads for very cheap. (Just doing a mild/stock replacement swap of my 882s)

With these 76cc stockers, compression is pretty low.

My question: If I run 1904 (.015) thin head gasket, how much estimate would my compression ratio be?
(What about .020 or .035 thin?)

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 




5Larry7 
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1916
5Larry7
Loc: Dallas, TX
Reg: 05-17-04
06-29-17 07:15 PM - Post#2698092    
    In response to matrx10503

FWIW, there are numerous sites on the internet that you can use to calculate your compression ratio. Just Google "calculating compression ratio" and you will get many hits.

'57 210, 327 cid, Holley MPFI, 700R4, A/C & more.
'51 Studebaker Starlite coupe, 350, TH400, GV OD.
'96 Replica of a 1950's Teardrop Trailer.


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
06-29-17 07:32 PM - Post#2698093    
    In response to matrx10503

I really wouldn't be that concerned with excessive c/r in that setup.

What I would be seriously concerned with is the quench distance. Let me explain. Quench is the distance between the flat deck of the piston and the flat deck of the head gasket area on the head.

So, if you have the heads off the engine, easy to figure out what gasket to use. Bring a couple of pistons to TDC in the block, measure how far down into the bore the piston decks are, and select the correct thickness gasket to allow for a good quench distance.

Example, The correct quench should be between .039 and .045 of an inch. IF the pistons are down in the bore, say, .024, use a .020 head gasket, quench will be right on @.044 inch.

Why quench is important, it controls the end gasses around the pistons, piston tops in the quench areas, and helps cool the top rings with mixture.

Too large a quench distance allows the mixture to migrate out of the quench area, making for a lean condition, excessive heat at the piston edge, and over heated top rings.

Too small a distance forces the mixture out of those too close areas, resulting in lean heat build up, and detonation.

Ever seen a piston that had the top edge eroded at the junction of the flat area on the head? That is because that area went lean, then detonated the piston materials away, for either of the reasons above.

Also, getting the quench distance correct will allow up to 1/2 point of c/r rise without detonation, when done right, over wrong.

Decades ago, Silv-O-Lite used to offer "destroked" pistons, to lower the c/r in a lot of engines. This was brought on by self proclaimed engine guru builders, to stop detonation in some engines. these pistons only had the pins raised in the piston body .020, lowering the piston deck into the bore the added .020.

The effect was usually devastating, worse than before. With the stock piston down in the bore .025, add the .020 destroked Silv-O-Lite's further down in the bore, and, the engine guru now using a .050 thick head gasket, instead of the stock .020 steel shim gasket, the quench was now .095, with detonation completely out of control.

Most were completely clueless as to why the lower compression was causing worse detonation than stock.

Please measure, and lets see what you have to work with.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
06-29-17 07:56 PM - Post#2698096    
    In response to IgnitionMan

  • IgnitionMan Said:
I really wouldn't be that concerned with excessive c/r in that setup.

What I would be seriously concerned with is the quench distance. Let me explain. Quench is the distance between the flat deck of the piston and the flat deck of the head gasket area on the head.




No, i'm not concerned about "excessive". I want to bump up compression (a bit) since I know these smogger heads are low comp. I know i'm not going to get over 9:1 which is perfect since i'm aiming for 8:5-9:1 since stock is around 8:1-8:5.
Car runs great (because low comp) off 87 now, so not trying to go too far from how it runs now.

And yeah, guess i'll have the heads off soon maybe over the weekend.

  • 5Larry7 Said:
FWIW, there are numerous sites on the internet that you can use to calculate your compression ratio. Just Google "calculating compression ratio" and you will get many hits.



Yes, there are, some vary in accuracy, so I thought to chime in here first to maybe save me some time and effort.
I figured someone may have ran a similar stock/mild setup and would know the gasket by number to achieve

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
06-30-17 06:51 AM - Post#2698132    
    In response to matrx10503

Just as info, an easy way to measure quench with the heads on the engine,

Pull a spark plug pout of its hole. HAND turn the crank to get the piston to TDC on compression, NOT overlap, and back the liston down the bore a few degrees.

Use a thick, fully soft strand of solder inserted into the plug hole, and all the way over the top of the piston to the edge of the bore. I usually just unroll a length of solder long enough to do the job, then, when done, wind it back onto its spool.

Hand rotate the piston through and past TDC, the solder will then be free to remove.

Remove the solder and measure its thickness at its outer end, this is the quench distance you are working with.

As I said, just info.



 
models916 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4702

Age: 66
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
07-03-17 05:09 AM - Post#2698486    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Great trick there Dave!



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
07-04-17 08:58 AM - Post#2698693    
    In response to IgnitionMan

I don't think i'm going to get to measure piston to deck.
It can only be at best .020-.025 at worse .045.

My block is undecked and heads are unmilled (AFAIK). The Heads surface looks good though.

So without trusting copper spray/adhesive/sealer, I'm prob. going to need composite type gasket.


Questions/Thoughts:
I'm pretty sure i'm going to use GM .028 or Victor/Mahle .026 purely for quench purposes as the compression ratio will be unnoticeable.

GM 10105117
(composite?)
MAHLE ORIGINAL/VICTOR REINZ 5746
(single sided graphite)

Do you think I will have any sealing issues with either of these gaskets?

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1047

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
07-04-17 09:47 AM - Post#2698700    
    In response to matrx10503

Not if the head and block surfaces are flat, you can get an idea using a machinists straight edge.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
07-04-17 10:37 AM - Post#2698709    
    In response to Shepherd

Yes, if I knew my block and heads were surfaced a bit, I would use .015 gasket.
I'm guess i'm being really paranoid about leaks.....I may be just overthinking it.

I'll call Mahle aftermarket tomorrow and pick their brains a bit.
I don't suspect any major warpage on either block or heads.
Head are used, but have had machine work on them prob. years ago before I got them (valve job, port, polish, etc.)
So the heads may have been "trued" (minor surface scraping)

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
07-04-17 02:17 PM - Post#2698727    
    In response to matrx10503

I don't think you are anywhere near the point of problems with the compression ratio, nor the compression pressure, no matter what thickness gasket you choose to run.

I realize you are interested in a final number on c/r, but, as I harped on previously, quench distance is a lot more important at this juncture.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
07-31-17 08:16 PM - Post#2702269    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Update 7/31:
Well I ended up going with a Victor Reinz .026 gasket. That's the thinnest I really could go anyway. I did not get to measure, but the pistons were stamped STD. So i'm guessing everything is stock sbc heights and figures.

So got it all back together, but 2 of my exhaust cam lobes are barely working (popping through carb, etc. all the classic signs)...and overall I could tell since the beginning of this year since I've been losing my "cam" sound I was used to. Worn. I just thought it had a bit more life in it before I had to replace it. Like maybe at end of year. Oh well.


So I have the ever classic 270H in it.
The 270 doesn't really have all the lope I would like, but I know its a mildly hot cam. (biggest you can go with stock conv and have brakes) So I would need more overlap to get that lope.
But I also know too much or overlap just in general isn't a good thing. Engines are a compromise.

Here are 2 profiles i'm thinking about to replace the 270h:

[Reference]
Comp 270h
RPM Range: 1800-5800
Intake Valve Lift: .470"
Exhaust Valve Lift: .470"
Advertised Intake Duration: 270°
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270°
224/224 @ .050
50 degrees overlap
LSA 110
------------------------- ----------
General Kinetics Co. 272
RPM Range: ??
Intake Valve Lift: .442"
Exhaust Valve Lift: .465"
Advertised Intake Duration: 272°
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 282°
?/? @ .050
53 degrees overlap?
LSA ??

Engine Pro MC1990
Intake Valve Lift: .465"
Exhaust Valve Lift: .465"
Advertised Intake Duration: 290°
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 290°
224/224 @ .050
66 degrees overlap (if the advertised duration is close to right..but I think the duration is really closer to the comp duration of 270 or 268)
LSA 112

Summit 1103
RPM Range: 1600-5200
Intake Valve Lift: .444"
Exhaust Valve Lift: .466"
Advertised Intake Duration: 288°
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 298°
LSA 110
57 degrees overlap

I think the 270h still has them beat as far as lope (<---hereafter referred to as "fairly noticeable idle") and overall.
The MC1990 is prob. a close 2nd.
I think I want to stick with a 110 LSA cam.

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


Edited by matrx10503 on 08-02-17 10:15 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
08-01-17 01:07 PM - Post#2702349    
    In response to matrx10503

Matt, just info,

The stock GM standard stainless steel head gaskets are .020 compressed. I don't remember them being expensive.

STD on the pistons doesn't tell much as far as how far down in the block the piston decks are, but, usually, if no other mods, between .020 and .025 is the normal.

Any idea what the compression ratio os???





 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
08-02-17 09:03 AM - Post#2702478    
    In response to IgnitionMan

  • IgnitionMan Said:
Matt, just info,

The stock GM standard stainless steel head gaskets are .020 compressed. I don't remember them being expensive.

STD on the pistons doesn't tell much as far as how far down in the block the piston decks are, but, usually, if no other mods, between .020 and .025 is the normal.

Any idea what the compression ratio os???





I should say .026 was the smallest composite I was comfortable going with. Head and block surface looked good, but I didn't have the measurements to back it up. So that's why I chose the VR and not steel shim. Although, I do feel like I could have used steel shim.
That puts my quench just past the "sweet spot" at 45 or 50. Assuming stock block height.
When I got the heads off, I see they (rebuilders) also used a VR gasket back then also (15+ years ago..but not many miles on engine). I was glad to see that.

4" bore
3.48" stroke
head gasket bore 4.1"
gasket thickness .026
deck height 9.025"
-7cc valve reliefs
76cc heads

8.64:1 static CR

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


Edited by matrx10503 on 08-02-17 12:20 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
pdq67 
Member
Posts: 470

Loc: Columbia, MO, USA
Reg: 08-31-02
08-02-17 07:04 PM - Post#2702587    
    In response to matrx10503

Imho, go with the .015" thick, Felpro, 1094 steel shims and use good old "Indianhead" on them, retorquing them a couple of times after heat cycles.

I figure that if everything is pretty-much still stock, it will raise your CR something like a 1/4 to MAYBE a 1/2 a point, just where you seem to want to be...

Next, Install the 270 cam!

I installed the 292/230, 109/107, .480" lift cam in my 9.5 to 1 CR, 406 and wished that I would have installed a 280 instead because the larger the advertised duration number, the weaker the cam will be down low! Unless the CR is raised up to compensate for the large Advertised number. This is a dynamic CR deal here is all.. IMHO..

Now there is more to this than just this, BUT that is the gist of it as far as I am concerned.

pdq67

PS., and if you want to, you can very carefully use an 8" long, fine bastard toothed triangle file and WD-40 and gently go from bolt-hole to bolt-hole on all decks to smooth and polish/clean them.

I did and also used the 1094's on my 406 after doing a bit of touch-up of the overhang areas of them BY HAND. Worked fine. Plus, I hand drilled the needed steam holes.



Edited by pdq67 on 08-02-17 07:22 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
08-03-17 08:20 AM - Post#2702650    
    In response to matrx10503

I think you will be OK with the gasket you selected, might have to compromise a degree or so on timing, but, you are more than likely a whole lot closer than most engines get built to.

A 270 range cam likes a real world c/r of 10.00:1, but, only when the quench is in the sweet spot. You aren't that far off on the quench, and the c/r is workable for that cam, go forward, young lad!



 
models916 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4702

Age: 66
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
08-07-17 07:20 AM - Post#2703150    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Rebuilders will most likely have decked the block. Depending on the piston Mfg., the pin height may have been moved to compensate. etc, etc……better measure.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
08-27-17 11:14 AM - Post#2705768    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Update 8/27:
If anyone needs me, i'll be Depression, Mentalville USA.

I rarely ever get to this point....but its near or past giving up stage.

Apparently my oil pump has been taking a dive I suspect since before the first tear down for the head swap.
Gauge has been reading 0 at idle, but give it gas, goes to the usual Chevy oil pressure 20-40 range.
I had a little bend/kink in the oil pressure tubing, so me being such an idiot just thought inaccurate gauge reading.
(I never suspected real oil issues, since i've had valve covers off to set/re-adjust the lifters countless of times during these swaps, to make sure the lifters were priming and pushing oil up the pushrods to the rocker arms)

Long story short, got the cam broke in fine, no miss, good idle, good throttle response....After 2 grand for 20 mins, I idled the engine down and then finally got to hear the best sound you could possible hear...now I have a knock. (Oh, sorry, were waiting for me to say the "cam lope"?)
I'm pretty dead set on it being a spun bearing. If it isn't then I would be surprised.
Replacing the oil pump at this point i'm sure is just wasted effort.
Basically no way around a full engine pull....Because logic tells you, everything on the bottom end needs to be check now.
Piston ring inspection, compression test and bearings inspection are all warranted from what I know about knocks and where they originate.
I'm going to put another old trusty oil pressure gauge with metal tubing just to confirm low oil pump pressure issue....but that will be prob 3 days until the Hurricane passes :-/


I didn't even think I was going to get the head swap done.....then I didn't think I was going to replace the worn cam.
Now, I think I really have to just stop and move on (even though I have no where to "move on" to...I can't tell which was is up right now).

I should have just started building on a carb'd Vortec roller block engine swap like I was debating.

Hindsight is really 20/20.

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
08-27-17 04:37 PM - Post#2705795    
    In response to matrx10503

Don't give up on it, overcome the problems. Go slow, use common sense, figure it out. Stick with it.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
08-29-17 02:36 PM - Post#2706050    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Got an unexpected break in weather. Although, Won't be another until weekend.

Pre-Diagnosis:
Car started right up on first key.
No knock and oil pressure is at 20psi at idle.
Temp started to get around 135-145 and that's when the knock is pretty apparent. I can slowly hear the knock start to faintly "come in". And the oil pressure correlates to this. I let it get down to about 15psi and killed the car. Never even got up to 160.
So as the oil temp rises and thins out, the pump fails more and more.


The biggest question is, what condition are the bearings [and which bearings would be likely affected the most] are in now if it only starts to knock as its warmed (which is due to the oil thinning and oil pump failing?).
The oil pump must be replaced regardless. So guess i'm toward the oil pan coming off.

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


Edited by matrx10503 on 08-29-17 02:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
models916 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4702

Age: 66
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
08-30-17 06:24 AM - Post#2706121    
    In response to matrx10503

Rod bearings and check the rod side clearance.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
08-30-17 09:28 AM - Post#2706148    
    In response to models916

Are you saying this...because the knock starts (indicating rod bearing) and when the engine heats up, its causing rod bearing clearances to expand (low oil pressure)?
And the knock developing partially takes out cam and main bearings as suspects?

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 
models916 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4702

Age: 66
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
08-31-17 03:33 AM - Post#2706255    
    In response to matrx10503

First thing I would do is change the pressure relief spring in the pump or buy a new pump. Did you weld the pickup tube to the pump body? Spring needs to be removed before applying heat to any part of the pump.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
09-03-17 11:48 AM - Post#2706591    
    In response to models916

  • models916 Said:
First thing I would do is change the pressure relief spring in the pump or buy a new pump. Did you weld the pickup tube to the pump body? Spring needs to be removed before applying heat to any part of the pump.



No idea, i've yet to ever see the oil pump in this engine.

The more I read, the more it seems rod knock. Im just hoping since the knock didn't start to after the cam break-in, its hasn't been run long enough time to do crank journal damage.
I don't think the oil pump is bad, but obviously it will get replaced new.
The oil pressure dropping as the engine warms is the biggest indicator of bearing clearance issues. The knock is an indicator of the connecting rods.

My mind if gearing up for the oil pump and all rod bearing set replacement.
Just debating on doing it right and pulling the engine or just jacking up the engine and (attempting) to drop the pan. :-/

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


Edited by matrx10503 on 09-03-17 11:48 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
09-03-17 01:44 PM - Post#2706599    
    In response to matrx10503

Just for clarification, cast iron pump bodies, (EDIT, nor, cast iron pump end cover plates) cannot be welded to steel pickup tubes, and brazing does not work, either.

Welding a framework bracket to the pickup tube that bolts to the oil pump cover works, though.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
10-06-17 01:58 PM - Post#2709949    
    In response to matrx10503

Finally back at this. Been in Houston for a bit also.
So far I have bought new Melling oil pump/shaft/screen and King STD rod bearings.

I finally got the oil pan off this morning.

Rear main and #7 rod cap.
https://imgur.com/a/ireEA

Rear main cap bearing has "dirt/contamination" wear and has grooves.
The crank journal has corresponding grooves, barely catches my fingernail.
Rear main cap good wear condition (no discoloration).
The rod is opposite of main cap condition. Crank rod journal is perfect smooth. Rod cap shows wear (very noticeable discoloration) and cap side of bearing has top layer wear, no discoloration though (opposite side of bearing not shown in picture).

Oil pump sometimes has a little "bind" to the gears when I rotate shaft and I can see a few bits of orange silicon sucked into the screen.

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3220

Reg: 04-15-05
10-06-17 06:21 PM - Post#2709973    
    In response to matrx10503

Orange silicone seal, bad stuff, gets everywhere, doesn't seal well, causes problems.

For a sealer, I go to a compound used in the motorcycle industry, this stuff is used on gaskets, rubber, and to form its own gasket between case4s, metal to metal. Seals rubber to metal, easily cleaned off with acetone or lacquer sealer.

Three-Bond 1194, gray sealer, same stuff you see on intake manifold gaskets, the gray band of sealer, only, this comes in a tube. A little bead of this stuff, on a dead clean surface, goes a long way.

Also sounds like the one rod cap is sprung, not good, more than likely, it cannot be refurbished. Be very wary to any machinist that might say to rebuild that rod, it might not be possible, because of the overheating involved in the cap failure.



 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
10-18-17 12:58 PM - Post#2711273    
    In response to IgnitionMan

Crank was too bad damaged.

So I have a 4 bolt main short block, that's been sitting semi-covered.
Plan on putting it on stand and further inspecting it.
If everything checks out, i'm going to just swap all the top end to this other engine.

I popped one head to check cylinder walls, looks good and usable.

My question: was I being paranoid when I first put the heads on, by not going with the .015 shim head gasket?
On a standard deck/un-machined block, really what are the chances of leaks?


1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


 
matrx10503 
Contributor
Posts: 126

Reg: 10-19-10
12-22-17 05:04 PM - Post#2718806    
    In response to matrx10503

Well, time to update my sig.

I've swapped in a used 355 shortblock now. Swapped all the new top end stuff from the old bad journal 350.

Used the Fel-Pro 1904 .015 gasket with some copper spray.
I have no measurements, but if all is stock. I should be at 8.84 CR

1981 Monte Carlo
SBC 350
Comp Cam 270H Magnum
Weiand Stealth Intake
Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
mild HP rebuilt 700r4 tranny
Flowmaster 50 Series Dual Exhaust
7.625 Non-Posi 3.73 Rear


Edited by matrx10503 on 12-22-17 05:05 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 




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