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Username Post: 305 Head gasket dilemma        (Topic#343453)
drakey 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 03-20-17
03-20-17 09:14 PM - Post#2682502    

1996 Chevy c1500

First and foremost I have the damaged side removed and found coolant in the 2 back most cylinders, Its the left side from the drivers position. The questions being: I read an article that advised changing both gaskets as well as replacing all "tension bolts". Keep in mind money is a problem, should I change both gaskets now or will i be OK with just changing the drivers side? I was also wondering what the chances of me breaking a head bold while torquing it, Am i so likely to break a bolt that I need to buy the bolt set?
Also, considering the old gaskets are Felpro im assuming this has been done before.
I Just don't want to f this up and have to spend another 90$ on gaskets.



Edited by drakey on 03-20-17 09:23 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
jbknight311 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1053
jbknight311
Age: 59
Loc: Fort Worth, TX
Reg: 11-27-06
03-21-17 05:44 AM - Post#2682546    
    In response to drakey

On my 89 350 I had same dilemma. Same cylinders fail point on the one side and not much money or time.
I changed the head gasket only on that one side and reused the bolts. No problems after that and problem fixed.
I also re-torqued other side head bolts and some did take a turn or two to get back to spec.

98 C1500 Silverado extended cab 5.7 auto 2wd Fort Worth, TX.


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28358
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
03-21-17 10:21 AM - Post#2682600    
    In response to jbknight311

There seems to be some debate about the Vortec using torque-to-yield head bolts (which is why drakey is concerned about them.) I am fairly sure this is incorrect, and instead it uses regular bolts for the heads. The intake uses torque-to-yield bolts.

Post #5 in this thread has GM's somewhat ridiculous method for torquing Vortec head bolts...might want to give it a read.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-e ngin...

While it refers to the vin "R" engine which is the 5.7, the same will apply to the 5.0.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
drakey 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 03-20-17
03-21-17 12:14 PM - Post#2682619    
    In response to someotherguy

Yes, them being torque to yield was my concern. But if they are not, That's great. Thanks for the input guys, ill reuse them once the weather clears up and Put up the results.



 
drakey 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 03-20-17
03-22-17 12:00 PM - Post#2682766    
    In response to drakey

Sorry for the double post, Couldn't remember how to edit... I wanted to ask what the head bolt placement is on the 305, could only find diagrams for the 350 is it the same? Should have kept track of that but lesson learned.



 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28358
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
03-22-17 12:06 PM - Post#2682767    
    In response to drakey

Yep, except for the displacement you will find pretty much most things between the 305 and 350 are the same. That's a gross oversimplification, but for your purposes it works.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
drakey 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 03-20-17
03-22-17 12:11 PM - Post#2682768    
    In response to someotherguy

Thank you, That was the fastest reply I've gotten on any forum.



 
Impala65SS 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4040
Impala65SS
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 08-23-07
03-23-17 02:14 PM - Post#2682977    
    In response to someotherguy

  • Quote:

Post #5 in this thread has GM's somewhat ridiculous method for torquing Vortec head bolts...might want to give it a read.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-e ngin...



It's a good method IMO. 1) the initial minor torque is just to start the bolt more or less equally, while the angular torque is the actual, mechanically correct, method. 2) The sought effect is to elongate the bolts (of the same tensile strength) to obtain the same clamping force from each bolt hole. The longer bolts will require more angular torque than the shorter bolts, to produce the same clamping. I'd bet the angular torque figures are in linear proportion to the length of the bolts

Just in case, I'm preparing to eat my hat in a near future


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXn2QVipK2o&a mp;fea...


 
drakey 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 03-20-17
03-23-17 03:23 PM - Post#2682988    
    In response to Impala65SS

So I torqued everything down using the old bolts and everything went fine. Just a few more odd things to hook up and it will be done. Would have been done today but I ran into a problem, Where the fuel lines go into the top. I'm pretty sure I'm missing some parts, I have two yellow rubber rings, one black and one metal washer.

Doesn't look right.



 
drakey 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 03-20-17
03-30-17 06:40 PM - Post#2684231    
    In response to drakey

Just to close this out, I was missing a washer for the return line. I bought a repair kit for 22$ just for the washer.
For anyone who may be interested you need a black o-ring on bottom metal washer in middle and yellow / orange ish (depending on the kit) on top.

Motor is back together, had a friend adjust the rocker arms and is running good (there is a slight tick). When I was test driving I did have coolant spraying from the plug in the radiator, hopefully I can just put some Teflon on it or replace the plug.

Thanks again for the help everyone.



 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
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