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Username Post: Enclosed Trailer for our Classics        (Topic#343345)
Forum Newbie
Posts: 89
Age: 60
Loc: Southern MidWest
Reg: 08-19-13
03-16-17 09:23 AM - Post#2681780    

I'm 59 yrs old & seriously thinking about retirement in 2-3 yrs. I'm dreaming about an enclosed trailer to pull the 55 long distance to cruises or whatever. I personally don't like driving more than about 100 miles away from my home here in the midwest due to storms, especially hail storms. Could turn a great day into a disaster real quick! I live in Mo, just attended my 96 yr old aunt's funeral in Allen P, Mich. My cousin begged me to bring my car to a big annual cruise in August. Thought about an open trailer but doesn't fix my worry or truck rocks. Roughly measured my car, 6ft wide X 16ft long. I'd say a min trailer would be a 8ft X 18?? But, you need to squeeze ur buttocks out too, right?! My aunt was in the WACs WW-II. It was an honor to be there. On the En-trailer, I worry about ventilation & gas fumes too. Wheel restraint to hold the car. I'm sure the trailer people have answers for all my concerns. Right truck to pull the load is obviously a concern. Weight of a Bel-air, axle load?? V-8, V-10, or diesel. It's all about $$ and what you want, right? I've had the little trash trailers but this would be a big step-up for me. I'm sure many of you do this, have done this, learned some lessons. Hopefully, not very expensive ones! Any suggestions would be appreciated. Bo L


Senior Member
Posts: 9701
Loc: The Republic of Texas
Reg: 04-30-00
03-16-17 08:10 PM - Post#2681885    
    In response to bolin1955

I've only used one enclosed trailer for my 55. It was a Pace American, 22 feet long, I wouldn't go any shorter. It was a chore to tow with my half-ton in nasty weather but it got the job done.


Senior Member
Posts: 255

Loc: Belmont, Ohio
Reg: 05-11-02
03-17-17 07:44 AM - Post#2681947    
    In response to bolin1955

I use a 32' duel axle enclosed trailer for my 56. I can put the car in and still have room for a couple motorcycles is front of it or use the space for car parts, luggage, etc.. Its like having a portable garage. No worries about the weather. Clean the car up at home and it is just as clean when I get to where I am going. Drive it around, then put it back in the trailer for safe storage at night.

I did add a wench to the inside front of the trailer just to be able to load a non running car.
Also make sure you get a man door on the right front side of the trailer so you can walk in and an access door about half way back on the left side of the trailer where the car door can open out. This way you can open the left side trailer door, then drive your car in the trailer, open the car door and exit the trailer on the left side. No need to try to climb out of the car with no room.

I pull the trailer with a heavy duty 3/4 ton, extended cab, short bed, gas, 4 wheel drive truck.
It has a heavy duty 2 5/16" trailer hitch with sway bars. A fifth wheel would probably be better, but I do not use the trailer except for a couple times a year.

I do not have any problems pulling the trailer at 70 miles an hour. It stays right behind the truck.

Forum Newbie
Posts: 53

Reg: 09-24-14
03-18-17 05:56 PM - Post#2682132    
    In response to 555657

I would add a V nose plus 20ft as minimum for the trailer. For the truck you need a 3/4 ton or a long wheel base heave half ton SUV (ie 6 lug wheels). Since this is for long hauls from time to time you should not need the towing package (it lowers your GPMs) Yes it is a good option for a work truck that hauls 3/4 ton daily.

Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Reg: 01-16-07
03-20-17 06:46 AM - Post#2682357    
    In response to bolin1955

I use a 24' enclosed trailer to pull my 55 around. It gives you extra room to haul other items in front of the car. I only have one walk in door in the trailer and the drop down ramp door on the back. I usually leave the drivers side window down when I haul it to make it easier to get in and out of the car. I use wheel straps on the front and axle straps on the rear. I cris-cross the rear straps and have never had any trouble. I put 4 x 4 blocks cut with a 45 degree angle in the front of the trailer where I want the front of the car positioned. I drive up against them and then add my straps. I added extra lighting and put all my interior lights on a switch next to the walk in door. I added "E" track on the floor and 36" above the floor around the perimeter of the trailer. This "E" track makes it really nice to tie stuff down or just hold stuff in place. Most trailers will have a venting system and I have never had a problem with gas fumes. I pull mine with a 3/4 ton Chevy club cab with the 6.0 liter gas engine. I get 12mpg with light winds and it drops pretty fast to 10 if you are driving into higher winds or hills.

Edited by buker55 on 03-20-17 06:49 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 53
Loc: Ft. Wayne, IN
Reg: 10-13-05
03-20-17 10:23 AM - Post#2682391    
    In response to bolin1955

I bought a 24 ft with a V nose to haul my '57. This length, plus the V nose gives extra space in front of the car to carry tools, cleaning supplies, chairs, etc. I had the trailer manufacturer put a door on the driver's side so when I drive the car up, I can open the car driver's door through the open side door. Sure makes loading and unloading a lot easier.

My trailer is aluminum and weighs just 2900 pounds. I was going for light weight as I had a 2001 1/2 ton with a 5.3l to pull it. This truck was working too hard as I had to pull in 3rd and stay at 60mph. I sold that truck and bought an '05 3/4 ton with a diesel and it pulls great.

If I were to do it over again, the only change I would make would be to have the manufacturer cut about 1 foot off the top of the trailer. It's taller than what it needs to be for a tri-five and the extra height is just dragging in the wind.


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