wz junk
Poster
Posts: 10
Reg: 04-21-10
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02-28-17 07:06 AM - Post#2678916
I did a search and I read a lot here but I have been unable to solve my problem.
I have the complete drivetrain from a 1990 Chevrolet Caprice in my 1954 Chevrolet. I used the 305 engine, 200r, computer, and factory gas tank with the factory fuel pump. I used an aftermarket wiring harness.
Once the engine reaches 185 degrees and goes into closed loop, it runs great and the fuel mileage is great, but when it is cold it will hardly pull itself.
I have a diagnostic tool hooked to the car and I monitor all of the data and it seems like everything is within normal limits. However, I am not knowledgeable in this area.
I have replaced most of the sensors, the egr, and the computer with no change.
I would appreciate some help and I will answer any questions.
John
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Shepherd
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1292
Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
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03-01-17 06:50 AM - Post#2679115
In response to wz junk
The engine should go to closed loop before 185. How long does it run before it calms down, what does the coolant sensor read when cold, using a scanner? Where is the O2 sensor mounted, has to be close to the engine, closed loop is commanded by the sensor when it is hot enough.
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wz junk
Poster
Posts: 10
Reg: 04-21-10
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03-01-17 01:49 PM - Post#2679188
In response to Shepherd
Thanks for your interest and help.
I just check the data with the car setting cold in my shop. The water temperature is 59F and the manifold air temperature is 66F. When I start the car both of these rise. The water temperature will go to 185F and this is about what my Autometer temperature gauge reads. The manifold temperature will be slightly higher than the outside air temperature and rise even more when the car sits running at idle.
The o2 sensor is in the right exhaust pipe just about 2 inches back from the factory cast manifold and in the horizontal position towards the outside of the car.
The engine runs fine at idle. It does not smoke or seem to misfire but when it is first started it does idle faster as it should. The problem starts when you drive the car and the engine is not in closed loop. After it is in closed loop it does fine, even when it occasionally cycles between open and closed loop.
John
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Shepherd
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1292
Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
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03-01-17 02:18 PM - Post#2679195
In response to wz junk
Everything looks good, how long before it goes to close loop. The O2 could just be lazy and slow to go to closed, this would cause the engine to be over rich during the warm up period. Some sensors on the market are not up to par. Can you see the sensor fixed cold voltage?and does it switch voltages up and down say between .200-.700v? Once in closed it should stay there while driving unless you idle for a period or shut it off and restart.
Edited by Shepherd on 03-01-17 02:20 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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wz junk
Poster
Posts: 10
Reg: 04-21-10
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03-01-17 02:36 PM - Post#2679196
In response to Shepherd
Saturday I plan to drive it a couple of hundred miles and I will try to log some of the data during the day. I am joining a group on a road trip to a drag racing museum.
I have a lifetime of building and driving hot rods but this is my first computer controlled engine in a hot rod. If baffles me that it can run so good when it is at operating temperature and so poor when it is cold. When cold it drives like a carbureted engine that has no accelerator pump and no choke.
thanks again
John
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wz junk
Poster
Posts: 10
Reg: 04-21-10
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03-02-17 04:03 PM - Post#2679391
In response to wz junk
I had been told that the reluctor in the distributor should produce at least 700 mvolts. I tested the old distributor and it was less than 500. So I replaced the complete distributor with all new not remanufactured parts. I do not think it runs as good now as did, but it is close. It seems to lag a little after it is in closed loop. I checked the new distributor and it is producing slightly more that the minimum 700 mvolts.
I added a can of seafoam to the gas tank just for fun, and I will let it soak some.
I will sleep on it tonight, and start again tomorrow.
John
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4012
Reg: 12-29-02
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03-02-17 10:56 PM - Post#2679477
In response to wz junk
What is the BLM and INT values doing in closed loop?
What is the EGR valve doing?
It should go into closed loop just over 100*F and not wait until 185*. There certainly shouldn't be that much difference between open and closed loop.
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wz junk
Poster
Posts: 10
Reg: 04-21-10
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03-08-17 05:57 AM - Post#2680334
In response to 65_Impala
What is the BLM and INT values doing in closed loop?
What is the EGR valve doing?
It should go into closed loop just over 100*F and not wait until 185*. There certainly shouldn't be that much difference between open and closed loop.
INT and BLM are at 128 at start up. Later during driving they fluctuate but it is hard to get data and drive. The car usually goes into closed loop about 145 degrees but yesterday it was nearly 185 before I noticed it in closed loop.
I will try to get more data today.
Thanks,
John
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wz junk
Poster
Posts: 10
Reg: 04-21-10
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06-20-18 05:27 PM - Post#2737715
In response to wz junk
After a year and a year and a half, 10,000 miles, many dollars spent on parts, and changing every component of the system at least once. It runs and performs as it should and I am happy. A $5.00 can of Berryman's fuel injection cleaner fixed the problem. I have no idea what the problem was, but it went away after I added the can of Berrymans. Normally I use another brand of fuel injection cleaner but a friend asked me to switch.
Another one of life's mysteries, but I wanted to update the post. Thanks to all of you who tried to help.
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