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 Page 4 of 4 « First<1234
Username Post: 383 rebuild kit        (Topic#342448)
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
03-18-17 02:52 PM - Post#2682107    
    In response to scrambldcj8

I found the bronze bushing at Napa today. Thanks for the help.

I was inspecting the clutch today and noticed that the springs looked like they had been hitting/rubbing something. I checked the bolts that connect the flywheel to the crank and sure enough that's what they were hitting. Then I checked the depth of the flywheel from the clutch face to the bolt face and it was only 3/8". I checked my new flywheel and it was 9/16" so I'm pretty sure I'll be fine. Just to be sure I ordered a new Centerforce clutch from Summit. A little pricy but since I'll be pulling heavy trailers and hauling wood and hay I want a heavy duty clutch.

Another question I have is about installing the engine. What's the best way to do it? Right now the SM465 is still bolted to the trans cross member with both drive shafts still connected. I was thinking I would install the bellhousing on the transmission and install the clutch throw out bearing and the clutch fork. Then I would install the whole motor mounts on the motor. Then I could lower the engine down in and slide it back into the bellhousing and get it bolted up. Then I could install the motor mount bolts to the frame and tighten them down. How would you guys do it?

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 




scrambldcj8 
Senior Member
Posts: 2252

Loc: MA
Reg: 04-06-03
03-19-17 04:57 AM - Post#2682176    
    In response to malibu27

  • malibu27 Said:
Just pony up another $3,000 for a gear vendor! It's only money. I wish I could get one but this motor is already taking its toll




HaHa....I only have a want for OD very infrequently, it's better I just suck it up and keep the speed down.
Plus I don't have the driveline length/wheelbase (107") for any additional hardware.....SM465/doubler/Tcase adds enough length as it is.

As far as the install of the motor. The only difficulty I see with that (and it's not that big of an issue) is lining up the tip of the input shaft (trans) and pilot bushing. If you have helping hands it can go well. I guess it all depends on how much room you have to work with and amount of patience. The motor mounts might get in your way while trying to line everything up.

Me? I had everything out already and installed motor/trans as a unit.



 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
03-24-17 08:11 PM - Post#2683157    
    In response to scrambldcj8

I got the block back from the machine shop yesterday. He kept telling me that he didn't know when he'd be able to clearance it for me. He actually said "I'm not God, how am I supposed to know when I can get to it". Ummmm, because it's your machine shop and you decide what you do, and when. So anyway I'm clearancing it myself.

I got the new crank, rods and piston cleaned up. I installed the main bearings and torqued the mains down. Then I mic'd the crank mains and I've got .004 to .005 clearance. I called Clevite and got a set of .001 undersize and a set of .002 undersize bearings. He said it didn't make sense because the crank mains were right within spec at 2.448. The rod bearings had .0045 clearance also so I ordered .001 and .002 undersize bearings for those also. I went ahead and installed the pistons so I could mark the block where it needs cut. There's a few places that need massaged. The crank throws actually just touched a couple piston skirts so I'll need to sand the throws a little.

It's great to actually get started on this.

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
CNC BLOCKS N/E 
Senior Member
Posts: 967
CNC BLOCKS N/E
Loc: NORTH EAST
Reg: 12-12-03
03-26-17 06:12 PM - Post#2683509    
    In response to malibu27

  • malibu27 Said:
I got the block back from the machine shop yesterday. He kept telling me that he didn't know when he'd be able to clearance it for me. He actually said "I'm not God, how am I supposed to know when I can get to it". Ummmm, because it's your machine shop and you decide what you do, and when. So anyway I'm clearancing it myself.

I got the new crank, rods and piston cleaned up. I installed the main bearings and torqued the mains down. Then I mic'd the crank mains and I've got .004 to .005 clearance. I called Clevite and got a set of .001 undersize and a set of .002 undersize bearings. He said it didn't make sense because the crank mains were right within spec at 2.448. The rod bearings had .0045 clearance also so I ordered .001 and .002 undersize bearings for those also. I went ahead and installed the pistons so I could mark the block where it needs cut. There's a few places that need massaged. The crank throws actually just touched a couple piston skirts so I'll need to sand the throws a little.

It's great to actually get started on this.




The crank shaft is on the low side and if the main housing bores are on the high side there is NOOOOOOOOOO way your going to come up with .005 oil clearance. Seems odd the rods show a lot of clearance as well.

Something is way off amateur measuring equipment I would suspect.

Seen alot of guys use cheap bore gauges and they don't work or old plastigauge.

http://www.performanceboats.com/gn7-dyno/192129-in...



 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 16974
grumpyvette
Age: 69
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
03-26-17 07:10 PM - Post#2683526    
    In response to CNC BLOCKS N/E

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
03-27-17 06:37 PM - Post#2683711    
    In response to grumpyvette

I bought a decent set of micrometers and dial bore gauge. I'm not sure what else I could do. I ended up using .001 undersize bearings on the mains to achieve .0025 clearance on the mains. I had to use .002 undersize bearings on the rods to achieve .002 clearance. Everything feels good. The crank spins smooth. Everything has a least .100 clearance from hitting anything. Thanks for the words of encouragement.

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 16974
grumpyvette
Age: 69
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
03-27-17 07:23 PM - Post#2683722    
    In response to malibu27

so far that sounds good

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 03-27-17 07:27 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3737

Reg: 12-29-02
03-27-17 08:02 PM - Post#2683740    
    In response to malibu27

Sounds good so far.



 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
03-30-17 07:18 PM - Post#2684239    
    In response to 65_Impala

Does it matter which way the little holes in the sides of the hydraulic lifters face when you install them?

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
models916 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4484

Age: 66
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
03-31-17 06:57 AM - Post#2684314    
    In response to malibu27

No, the cam will rotate them. There is a machined groove or slot so that oil flows all the time. The only time it could be a problem is if the lift of the lobe moves it up too far and closes the hole. Takes a real big cam to cause this.



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3737

Reg: 12-29-02
03-31-17 03:32 PM - Post#2684385    
    In response to malibu27

The GM roller lifters are not directional so you can put them either way.

In case you didn't know, you don't use the moly based thick paste like assembly lube on the cam lobes or roller wheels of the lifters with roller lifters.



 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
03-31-17 05:37 PM - Post#2684408    
    In response to 65_Impala

The thick red assembly lube is what came with the lifters and rockers so that's what I used. What should I be using?

I followed the instructions that came with the cam on how to adjust the valves with my comp cams push rod checker tool. It seemed like the lifter body would move up before it would move the pushrod checker. I guess the spring inside the lifter was being compressed. I called comp cams and asked the guy about checking pushrod length and he said I need to take out one of the springs and put in a checking spring. Then go through the same procedure with checking pushrod length and then add .050 for lifter preload.

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3737

Reg: 12-29-02
04-03-17 09:07 PM - Post#2684874    
    In response to malibu27

  • malibu27 Said:
The thick red assembly lube is what came with the lifters and rockers so that's what I used. What should I be using?

I followed the instructions that came with the cam on how to adjust the valves with my comp cams push rod checker tool. It seemed like the lifter body would move up before it would move the pushrod checker. I guess the spring inside the lifter was being compressed. I called comp cams and asked the guy about checking pushrod length and he said I need to take out one of the springs and put in a checking spring. Then go through the same procedure with checking pushrod length and then add .050 for lifter preload.




It sounds like that is the thinner stuff. The stuff I posted about is very thick and and won't run at all. It's usually not red either.

You have the adjustable test pushrod, right? If so, then yes you put in a light testing spring and use that to check because the normal spring will compress the plunger down into the lifter just as you were observing.



 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
04-24-17 05:45 PM - Post#2688113    
    In response to 65_Impala

well I finally got the engine together last saturday and she's running like a dream. Thanks for all the help.

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3737

Reg: 12-29-02
04-24-17 09:08 PM - Post#2688150    
    In response to malibu27

Job well done!

How's the power? I think those E-tec heads are a rather good head yet often ignored.



 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
04-25-17 03:36 AM - Post#2688168    
    In response to 65_Impala

Haven't really opened her up yet. But, she sounds good! Oil psi is real good at 60lbs cruising. Temp stays right at 195. Hopefully she keeps truckin!

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
05-12-17 02:06 PM - Post#2690926    
    In response to malibu27

So I've got about 600 miles on her now and she's running great! I did have to fight a oil leak with the old oil pan and the one piece felpro gasket. I ended up buying a new Milodon 7 quart oil pan with the matching gasket and matching pickup. I went with the 7 quart because I actually sucked the stock pan dry at high rpm when it was low on oil.

Next time I will definitely take more time and better care when sealing up the motor. Dropping the pan from underneath sucks!

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
LUVmachine 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1387
LUVmachine
Age: 35
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 10-02-14
05-14-17 10:03 AM - Post#2691223    
    In response to malibu27

  • Quote:
Next time I will definitely take more time and better care when sealing up the motor. Dropping the pan from underneath sucks



I agree. I had a 400 in my old LUV truck I dropped the pan 6 or 7 times in the truck chasing an oil leak. I went through 2 oil pans and timing covers and several different types of gaskets. Two sets of the one piece fel pro before I actually got it sealed. Totally a PITA. It probably would have been faster and easier to pull the motor, put it on a stand roll it upside down and do it one time.

71 C-10 454 with weiand 177
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
1983G20Van 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 3599

Loc: Bedford, Texas, USA
Reg: 11-13-02
05-14-17 10:13 AM - Post#2691225    
    In response to 65_Impala

  • 65_Impala Said:
Job well done!

How's the power? I think those E-tec heads are a rather good head yet often ignored.



Yes they are!!! I have a set of 170s I had on my Express van until I overheated it and warped them when a rear heater hose split open on the highway, trailer in tow. I have had them surfaced and plan to put them on a 6" rod 383 I am building. I gained about 50 hp at the wheels with a small cam upgrade and the Etec 170s. Went from a 206/210 @ .050 roller with .488/.488 lift cut on a 110° LSA to a 215/220 @ .050 roller with mid .550s lift on both sides cut on a 114° LSA. Gained ALOT of power and did not lose any torque.

1983 G20 Van, 350 TPI, Ported 906 Vortecs, Edelbrock 3817 Base, ASM oversize runners. Reed Custom Roller cam, 700r4, 12 bolt with 3.08 gears, Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers, true duals


 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
05-18-17 05:45 PM - Post#2691805    
    In response to 1983G20Van

maybe you guys can help me out with 2 issues I'm having.

1. my oil pressure is really high. I have a melling 155hv oil pump. I'm running Castrol 10-30. When I start the truck cold I've got 70 psi at idle. When it's hot I've 60 psi cruising down the road. If I hammer the throttle the oil hits 80 psi at about 4,000 rpm then it drops back 40 psi and builds back up. Is my oil bypass valve opening or what? Should i be running 5-20 oil?

2. The truck starts great when the engine is cold. When it's hot it's hard to start. Any ideas?

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3737

Reg: 12-29-02
05-19-17 09:40 AM - Post#2691895    
    In response to malibu27

Did the pump come with the high pressure spring? If it did, did you install it?

As for the hot starting. You need to narrow it down to being a cranking issue, fuel issue or ignition issue.



 
malibu27 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 38
malibu27
Loc: Harrisonburg
Reg: 03-15-15
05-20-17 04:56 AM - Post#2692010    
    In response to 65_Impala

The pump did not come with any extra parts. I took it out of the box and installed it.

How do I go about narrowing the hard starting down?

'83 chevy K20, 383, SM465
'97 chevy 1500 Silverado, 350, 4L60E


 
rumrumm 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2059
rumrumm
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
05-23-17 07:33 AM - Post#2692461    
    In response to malibu27

You might be dealing with a vapor lock issue which is not unusual if you are running an Edelbrock carburetor. You could try putting a phenolic plate under it to help prevent heat transfer.

Lynn

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."


383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock, Sanderson. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 ft. lbs. torque @ 4300.

http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanso n


 




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