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 Page 2 of 3 <123
Username Post: Ruth's "Daily Driver" BB El Camino        (Topic#333982)
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
05-23-16 08:49 AM - Post#2630022    
    In response to Keith_Knox

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Mine was light yellow.



Nice! I like yellow obviously. What color was the interior? Black?



 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
05-23-16 08:51 AM - Post#2630024    
    In response to knightfan2691

  • knightfan2691 Said:
I will DEFINITELY blame your wife for that gorgeous color ... LOL! LOOKS AWESOME!!!!! Bet the pics don't quite do it justice, eh??

Im an old man and I had in my head that I wanted factory aqua blue so yes Ruth is definitely to blame on the color. Yah it looks really good we are both really happy with how turned out.


Cort > www.oldcarsstronghearts.com
pigValve.paceMaker.cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (needs new owner)
"Do you see what I see?" __ One Republic __ 'Stop & Stare'






 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
05-23-16 08:53 AM - Post#2630026    
    In response to BBLemond

So I made some progress on the Ron Francis Wiring Harness this weekend. Here's all the old wiring that came out of the El Camino. It was in pretty bad shape when I took it out and it was very brittle. Probably a good thing I'm replacing it all with new wiring. Last thing I need is a phone call from Ruth about being stuck on the freeway or even worse it being on fire. That would not be good.


Here's some dashes I've picked up to make sure I have all the working gauges I need. My factory dash came with an AMP meter so I found one with a volt meter. The factory AMP meters are notorious for catching fire so I thinks its best to switch it out and be done with it.



I was looking at all the places to mount the fuse block and the stock location under the dash would work pretty well I think.


But then I started thinking about new cars and how they all have their fuse blocks in the engine compartment. So I called Ron Francis Wiring's tech line and asked them about heat and weather and they recommended it to be installed inside the drivers compartment specifically due to the potential for water to get on it but also heat. They said a lot of people mount them behind the drivers seat and other places like that if they want a custom location. But they also said that all of the wires that go into the fuse block are 10' long so I need to keep that in mind. The tech guy was really helpful and nice and didnt talk down to me like I've experienced on other tech lines so I gotta say thank you for that!

So long story short if I want to mount it in the engine compartment I need to create a box that gets cool air but also keeps heat and water out. I also need to keep it within 10 feet of the gauge cluster and the steering column. So here's where Im gonna put it. This is the front drivers side fender and there's this huge open space between the fender well and the radiator support.





I have a busy week so Im not sure I will finish this up before next weekend but I think its gonna work out pretty nice. I figure once I have it all made I will take it to the painter and let him match the color so it fits the compartment nice.

What do you guys think about installing it there? Am I missing something?




Edited by BBLemond on 08-02-17 10:16 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
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Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
06-08-16 09:05 AM - Post#2632851    
    In response to BBLemond

Alright so I finally made some more progress. I got my box built and I think it turned out pretty nice. I used a bunch of aluminum sheet I had in the garage and I used my buddy's break to bend it up.

I had a welder in the area do the hard part. I can weld pretty good but not aluminum


I used a left over zuse fitting from my Chevelle to attach the box cover.


I had a bunch of fender brackets floating around so I used on of those to support the bottom of the box. I had to shorten it a bit but at least it has a nice factory look


Since I only have one zuse keeping the top on I made it so it would lock into the bottom with this flange. It actually worked really well and holds the box nice and tight


After I got it all done I realized that my headlight hole would somewhat be blocked so I grabbed one of the plugs from the Ron Francis Wiring Kit and a headlight and bucket to make sure I had enough room between the box and the back of the headlight. You cant see it very well but when its all up there I have an easy 2 inches to make the bend with the wire. And since its easy to take the box on and off it shouldnt be a problem getting the wire hooked up and then placing the box in when its all done


With all the fiddling I did I screwed up and scratched my new paint :smt093 I was not happy but it probably wont be the last time so Im just gonna plan on going back to the painter when its all done

I didnt want to mount the fuse block directly on the aluminum in case a little water got in there and I also thought it would be best to have a little rubber insulation so after a lot of looking I found these. They just slide into the hole and then when you screw them tight they spread out on the other side to make a good water resistant seal. They also sit slightly above the surface so they should give a little insulation. Pretty slick I think. If you look at the above pic from underneath you can kind of see the furthest grommet pinched down and holding tight.






Edited by BBLemond on 08-02-17 10:19 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
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Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
07-11-16 11:49 AM - Post#2639122    
    In response to BBLemond

Well I've been a little slow on posting but I've been working pretty hard on Ruth's El Camino. I got all the extra little pieces that needed to be painted from the painter. I fitted all the grill and headlight buckets up and they are gonna work great.


I also got some insulation material and attached it to the inside of the whole cab including the doors. I think that will help with the noise and resonation.







I started working on the wiring harness and realized I really needed to get the vintage air mocked up and also the engine in so I could run the engine harness from the Ron Francis kit. I pulled the inner and out fenders off so I could run the lines and of course it made it a lot easier to drop the engine in.


With the fenders off I realized that it would be a lot easier to do fitting with the hedders if needed so I got those in too. The Hedman Hedders fit perfect actually so even with the big block I still had clearance between the frame and the inner fenders.








The vintage air kit came with a bracket that uses the stock firewall heater holes but I filled them all in and made the firewall look really nice. So I modified their bracket so I don’t have to use those factory holes. Its hard to tell in the picture but its different








Edited by BBLemond on 08-02-17 08:01 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
knightfan2691 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6177
knightfan2691
Age: 44
Loc: Elgin IL
Reg: 11-18-02
07-17-16 11:13 AM - Post#2640235    
    In response to BBLemond

Love the progress on this!


2-DAY EVENT S Elgin IL, with restaurant & hotel discounts:
http://www.oldcarsstronghearts.com/2016/07/12/tues...
"You can call it life and say that it's not right" __ Mel McDaniel __ 'I Call It Love'



 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
07-26-16 04:52 PM - Post#2641921    
    In response to knightfan2691

Thanks!

  • knightfan2691 Said:
Love the progress on this!


2-DAY EVENT S Elgin IL, with restaurant & hotel discounts:
http://www.oldcarsstronghearts.com/2016/07/12/tues...
"You can call it life and say that it's not right" __ Mel McDaniel __ 'I Call It Love'






 
BBLemond 
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Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
07-26-16 04:58 PM - Post#2641924    
    In response to BBLemond

More progress this week! I got all the Vintage Air hoses ran and mounted on the inner fender.


Compressor and Condenser are also in and mounted. The compressor lines look great and should be really clean once the fender is back on.


The pre-bent condenser lines from vintage air fit perfect so that really made this part of the job easy.




So heres the best part from this kit. These little actuators replace the factory cables with wires so they don’t take up as much space and I can run the wires how id like.




I gotta say im pretty excited about these. They wire into the servo motors which do the actuating in the heater box.







Edited by BBLemond on 08-02-17 07:52 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
07-26-16 05:01 PM - Post#2641925    
    In response to BBLemond

I also got some more done on the wiring. Im not a fan of the factory solenoid on the starter so I made this bracket to mount an external solenoid


It mounts or stacks on top of the idler arm so its clear from all moving parts and is high enough that it should be protected from things coming up from the road.


I got the Ron Francis Wiring firewall bracket mounted too. It covered the stock holes and actually makes it look a little cleaner than it did before which is great!


Im going to start running some wires this week so I pulled out the Ron Francis wiring schematic. I think the best plan of action will be to start the rear wiring first and then move to the front.










Edited by BBLemond on 08-02-17 07:48 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
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Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
09-13-16 10:33 AM - Post#2651093    
    In response to BBLemond

Im not sure whats going on but I've been gone for a month at the river and now its raining in Yorba Linda? My guess is summer isnt over yet but kinda strange. Before I left I almost finished up the Ron Francis Wiring Harness so hopefully I will get the pics uploaded soon. However while I was gone the Chassisworks rear suspension came in. Nothing better than coming home from vacation to find new suspension waiting for me I have Chassisworks suspenion in my Chevelle and I love it so Im sure its gonna work great on Ruth's El Camino





Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 10:03 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
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Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
09-21-16 02:23 PM - Post#2652564    
    In response to BBLemond

Ok so I got more progress done on the Ron Francis wiring harness. I got all the wires wrapped in the engine compartment. And all my bumper lights front and rear are pretty much done. I still need to tie into the rear taillights and license plate light

I picked up these tailights at OPG and I gotta say they are very nice. This El Camino is really starting to look like a truck again

As you can see I got the bumpers done too. The front bumper gave me a little trouble as the passenger side stuck out a little bit. I just modified the support bracket hole so it would slide back a bit further and now it fits great.

I also got the trim pieces back for the bed and rear window area. They turned out really nice

I picked up these gauges from a company around the corner from me. They are Marshall gauges and I hear they make a lot of private label gauges for some of the big gauges companies. Anyways they had these that look similar to stock and have the greenish light to match the stock gauge lights so I think they will look really nice.












Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 10:02 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
rcr3 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2868
rcr3
Age: 66
Loc: Manheim Pa. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
09-23-16 04:53 AM - Post#2652832    
    In response to BBLemond

Looking good!!!

'12 Cruze RS LTZ
'73 Nova hatchback Sold 12/23/12
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'67 Camaro survivor




 
Buster3101 
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Posts: 5

Age: 51
Loc: Nelson, New Zealand
Reg: 05-13-16
09-24-16 12:32 PM - Post#2653054    
    In response to BBLemond

Very nice job being done, it's inspiring. I'm sure Ruth will love it once it's on the road.



 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
10-18-16 09:40 AM - Post#2657183    
    In response to Buster3101

thanks guys. Im trying to make it nice. Its been a ton of work though.



 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
10-18-16 09:42 AM - Post#2657184    
    In response to BBLemond

So I got the dash pretty much done. I got the Marshall gauges mounted and the wiring cleaned up and ready to go.

One of the teadious parts of installing the harness was crimping the connectors on. Even though it’s a little more work I like the fact that I can route the wires the way I want and keep everything nice a clean under the dash and in the engine compartment. I dont think rats nests look very nice

Gotta say I think Ruth has gotten really good with the camera












Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:56 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
10-25-16 09:06 AM - Post#2658211    
    In response to BBLemond

Here's a few more pics of the Ron Francis Wiring harness. This is looking in from the headlight bucket. I ran all the wiring through the inner fender so the engine compartment would stay looking clean


The headlight switch that came with the kit looks pretty nice I think it will do the job well. I don’t have a pic yet but the front side has a nice billet looking handle that fits the dash nicely.


This a pretty nice feature of the Ron Francis harness. This is a connection stud that allows you to connect all the positive leads from all of the accessories to the battery positive without trying to connect directly at the battery post. I think it helps make all the connections much cleaner






Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:54 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
12-13-16 11:46 AM - Post#2665908    
    In response to BBLemond

Im clearly getting old because this El Camino is kicking my butt. I took a little break but I just couldn’t let this suspension sit any longer. The Ron Francis Wiring Harness is pretty much done and I need to get it to the upholstery shop so its time to get it back on the ground. As i mentioned before I bought a complete rear suspension kit from Chris Alston's Chassisworks. I have their suspension in the rear of my Chevelle and I love it so I think its going to work well behind the El Camino. Here's the complete kit.


I was thinking that I would use weld-on brackets but I think I want to keep the rearend stock in case I want to upgrade and sell the stocker. I got both so I figured I'd take a pic before I return them.


Ruth made me take a pic of the welds because for some reason she doesnt think mine are nearly as good. Something about me telling her my welds are good and now she's sees what a real weld looks like. I don’t know, I think my welds are perfect


I thought it would be easiest to remove the rearend with all the suspension hooked up to it. So I made this jig to hold keep it from tipping or rotating once the suspension was disconnected. I just used what I had around the house to slap it together.



To get it out was pretty straight forward. I just removed the bottom lower control arm bolts first. Lowered the rearend down and then removed the upper arm bolts and brake line. She rolled right out no problem.







Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:52 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
rcr3 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2868
rcr3
Age: 66
Loc: Manheim Pa. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
12-14-16 03:28 AM - Post#2666035    
    In response to BBLemond

Thanks for the update!I used the Ron Francis Kit when I built my '37.GOOD STUFF!

'12 Cruze RS LTZ
'73 Nova hatchback Sold 12/23/12
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'67 Camaro survivor




 
SSuper Dave 
Member
Posts: 408

Loc: Pearland TX
Reg: 10-02-05
12-14-16 11:17 AM - Post#2666089    
    In response to rcr3

I've owned and parted out many 'A' body cars, but have never seen cam bolts on the upper rear control arms. Did you intall those, or are they some type of aftermarket arm?

1968 Caprice coupe, 327/275, TH400, Ash Gold/Ivy Gold, Tach Dash, Tilt, Buckets, Console, AM/FM, Rear Defog, Disc and Rallys.
1970 El Camino, 350, TH400, 12 bolt posi, a blank slate!


 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
12-14-16 01:21 PM - Post#2666108    
    In response to SSuper Dave

  • SSuper Dave Said:
I've owned and parted out many 'A' body cars, but have never seen cam bolts on the upper rear control arms. Did you intall those, or are they some type of aftermarket arm?



I installed them. I went through the whole rearend before and quickly put it all back together knowing it would all come back out sooner than later.



 
SSuper Dave 
Member
Posts: 408

Loc: Pearland TX
Reg: 10-02-05
12-16-16 12:05 PM - Post#2666369    
    In response to BBLemond

VERY handy!

1968 Caprice coupe, 327/275, TH400, Ash Gold/Ivy Gold, Tach Dash, Tilt, Buckets, Console, AM/FM, Rear Defog, Disc and Rallys.
1970 El Camino, 350, TH400, 12 bolt posi, a blank slate!


 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
12-20-16 11:42 AM - Post#2666959    
    In response to SSuper Dave

Yah when you're in need of a washer they work great.



 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
12-20-16 11:46 AM - Post#2666960    
    In response to BBLemond

Now that the rearend was out my first task was to make sure I ordered the correct Chassis Works upper arm replacement bushings. They aren't really bushings but a pivot ball that doesn’t have any deflection.
My rearend came out of a 67 Chevelle and should have the larger diameter bushings but I wanted to check before I got too far into this. Sure enough I got the right ones.






I used some old port-a-power tools from when I used to work to get the old bushing out. I just used a big c-clamp to put the new pivot ball back in.


I have never used loctite like this before but apparently this is a new way to help hold these types of bushings in.


The new Chassis Works upper arm didn’t quite fit my housing. I called their tech line and this is somewhat common on some the the 12 bolt housings. I just ground down the arm to fit. A little black paint and it will clean up nice.










Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:48 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
12-28-16 10:28 AM - Post#2668232    
    In response to BBLemond

Well with the hard part done I've got the arm painted and ready to be put back on. I mounted the Chassis Works lower coil over shock mounts on the rearend. They use all the stock brackets so it was fairly straight forward. And since they mount to the lower arm bracket I think they will help support the factory bracket making them a lot stronger and stiffer




The brackets came powder coated which is nice and they have quite a few holes for setting ride weight which will come in handy once I get it sat on the ground


I also mounted the sway bar u-bolts. Since the stock 12-bolt rearend didn’t have these types of mounts the brakes lines were in the way. I just bent the factory tabs up so the lines will clear the u-bolts and I will adjust the lines to clear also.


The bottom of the u-bolts have this bracket that let me tighten up the u-bolts first and then I can attach the sway bar later


Since the rearend was out I figured this would be the best time to get the upper coilover mounts bolted in.They use a couple factory holes and then I had to drill out two more. I bolted them up first and then used the new bracket as a jig to drill the other holes.






Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
01-03-17 10:18 AM - Post#2669151    
    In response to BBLemond

Happy New Years, hope everyone had a great holiday!




Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:34 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
01-03-17 07:28 PM - Post#2669232    
    In response to BBLemond

Here's the rearend with the Chassisworks upper and lower arms attached. The uppers use the spherical bearing on the housing and the G-Link pivot balls at the frame. The lowers use their G-Link pivot balls that are encased in urethane and are greasable for both ends. I think having the urethane on at least one end of the arms will help keep the vibrations down.


Before I mounted the lower arms I made them the exact same length as the stock lower arms. I figure this will put the rearend in the same location as it came out


This bracket is for the Varishock coil-over to mount to the housing. Where it mounts on the Chassisworks bracket will dictate the ride height.


The sway bar links are big, but I guess if I was going to autocross I would need them to be strong. To mount the brackets I did open up a hole that was already there and then had to drill one more hole. The instructions made it easy to figure out what needed to be done so that went pretty quickly.




To assemble the sway bar links I just used the grease that came with them and my vise.






Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:31 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
01-03-17 08:11 PM - Post#2669235    
    In response to BBLemond

I really like it when I buy a product and the small details have been addressed. These could have easily been mig welded especially since once they are installed they will rarely be seen. But Chassisworks tig welded them instead. I gotta say Im really impressed with the quality of this kit.


I had stiffeners similar to these in my Chevelle and they are something that in my opinion everyone should have in their Chevelles or El Caminos. The factory frames just werent designed to handle a lot of power or performance driving and so they tend to wear out and the mounts get stretched and moved around over time. I did this to my Chevelle shortly after I bought it in '64 after seeing guys at the track ripping theirs apart. Sometimes upgrades arent about improving performance as much as they are about keeping everything working right. If Chevy made the factory mounts stronger these wouldnt be needed but they didnt so they are worth the cost and effort to install.




I wanted to be able to take the jig off and the jack out while I got the Varishocks set up so I used some all thread and heim joints and bolted them in place of the varishocks for now.


Here's the rearend installed with all the Chassisworks arms in place






Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:28 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
01-09-17 03:06 PM - Post#2670316    
    In response to BBLemond

Since I'm a racer I think I may be a little more picky than others on some things but Im pretty excited to drive and adjust these Chassisworks Varishock coilovers. The Koni's I have on my Chevelle are good but they are hard to adjust. The knobs are up top so I really have to get far underneath the Chevelle to get them adjusted and I cant say they are easy to see which knob does what. I guess if I was younger and more agile it would be easier to get under there and also to remember the how to adjust them but since Im old its a little tougher.


The other feature that Im ready to try out are these thrust bearings that I added on to my order. On my Chevelle the springs are hard to adjust and I believe the reason for that is when Im turning the adjuster the spring is trying to dig into the aluminum. To be honest it really upset me the first time I adjusted the Konis and it tore up the anodized finish. So with the Varishocks I ordered this spring bearing kit that puts a thrust bearing in between the spring and the adjuster. This should make it a lot easier to adjust the spring and also keep the anodizing on the aluminum in good shape.



Don't ask me how I know but I would highly recommend just ordering the Chassisworks spring compressor thats designed for their Varishocks. I could not get a standard compressor to work and after getting the Chassisworks compressor I wish I would have just used it from the beginning





As you can see it grabs the very edge of the spring on the top and the bottom and i just tightened it up until the top spring seat plate would fit in.





Here's a shot from the top. I thought it would be worth while to show how much little amount of spring the compressor tool actually grabs onto. Also, once I compressed the spring the aluminum top plate just slid in from the side, locked into place on the shock body and then I just loosened the compressor back out slowly until it was seated.



After thinking about my last post I wanted to clarify the bolt hole to bolt hole measurement. The instructions say to use a measurement from 11.5" to 12.5" from the top of the upper spring seat down to the bottom center line bolt hole. So I used 12" and then added another 1.5" which is the distance from the upper spring seat mount to the upper bolt hole. This was good for getting me close to the correct dimensions but I will still need to get Ruth's El Camino on the ground with the Varishock coilovers and then adjust accordingly to get to 11.5" to 12.5" range from the top of the spring seat to the bottom hole center line.




Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:23 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
02-01-17 01:31 PM - Post#2674710    
    In response to BBLemond

So I took a little vacation (2 weeks ) but I was able to get the Chassisworks rear suspension all installed and got the El Camino off to the interior shop. Boy does it look good! Im gonna have to send the seat back to make clearance for the seat belts though. This El Camino never came with belts but Im not sure if any of them did. All I know is that the seat isnt really made for them in the middle.

Here's a pic of all the suspension installed and the brake lines reworked to fit with the Varishocks.


Here a close up of the brake lines relocated to fit with the Varishock coilovers. You can see the old bracket that was on the side and now they are moved to the top.


So that’s what I got done before I left and this is what got done while I was gone. Boy sometimes its nice to come home to a project thats further along then when I left. The leather is grey but its really light so it looks almost white. The carpet is obviously a darker grey and I think it looks really nice.


Here's a shot of the rear panel behind the seat


Here's a closer picture of the door panel


And here's the headliner.


The nice thing about an El Camino is I only had to pay for one bench seat instead of two! The upholstery guy kept the same theme going as the door panels.




The only issue that I didn’t think of was how to use seat belts with the factory bench seat. Since the back of the seat comes up high and the bench back rests into it I don’t think the upholstery guy can change it. So im thinking that he will be able to make a hole in the center of the seat so the seat belts can fit through.








Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:16 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BBLemond 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 55

Reg: 03-15-16
03-30-17 10:03 AM - Post#2684189    
    In response to BBLemond

I didn't realize how much time the little things take but its getting close to being road ready. Here's some of the little stuff I've gotten worked out. I finally got the gas tank in for good.




I moved the steering shaft from the column to the box a little further away from the hedders. I just made a bracket to mount another u-joint to the frame.


The stock neutral safety switch linkage was too short for the Hurst shifter. So I just used a piece of thick welding rod to make a new link and it looks like its going to work well








Edited by BBLemond on 08-01-17 09:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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