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Username Post: Floor prep Question        (Topic#333182)
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 887
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
02-17-16 09:37 AM - Post#2609499    

This is pretty much what my entire floor looks like.
Would you remove the original matting before the EZ-Cool goes down ?

Attachment: IMG_0458.jpg (2.27 MB) 36 View(s)




Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 

tgrosh 
Contributor
Posts: 299
tgrosh
Age: 44
Loc: Charlotte NC
Reg: 04-25-13
02-17-16 09:46 AM - Post#2609501    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

I probably would yes. It's very old and serves no purpose once the new layer goes down, other than as a source for mold and mildew.

- Troy

52 Styleline Deluxe 4 Door


 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5332
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
02-17-16 10:34 AM - Post#2609523    
    In response to tgrosh

Those floors look good. Where's all the rust?
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
kensluys 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1318
kensluys
Loc: Bellingham, WA, USA
Reg: 04-18-01
02-17-16 01:33 PM - Post#2609552    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

  • 56sedandelivery Said:
Those floors look good. Where's all the rust?
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.



I'll second that. They look really good!

1951 Bel Air - January build date.


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27353
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
02-17-16 02:00 PM - Post#2609565    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

I would remove the matting in order to clean the metal and possibly lay down a coat of paint. A floor that good is definitely worth protecting.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
dsacton 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 999
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
02-17-16 03:42 PM - Post#2609583    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

I cleaned my floors well and painted with POR-15, since I had a lot of surface rust. (I fixed the areas that were rusted through) I put down a very cheap alternative to the acoustic padding; duct insulation from Home Depot!~ I put it on the roof too.



Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
Keith_Knox 
Moderator and "16th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 5810
Keith_Knox
Age: 76
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
02-17-16 06:53 PM - Post#2609638    
    In response to dsacton

Floors look good, also my kind of beer.

1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
1962 Ranchero Purchased 4/2017 221 V8 Automatic.
2013 F150 Crew Cab


 
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 887
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
02-17-16 08:41 PM - Post#2609664    
    In response to raycow

Just surface rust, don't think I need Por-15, What would you suggest for a good paint ?
Thanks

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 
pearljam724 
Contributor
Posts: 761
pearljam724
Age: 41
Loc: SW Pennsylvania
Reg: 01-27-14
02-17-16 10:46 PM - Post#2609682    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

POR-15 is hard to beat. Extremely durable, extremely easy to apply, needs very little prep, sticks to just about anything. A small jar seams expensive, but brushed on at the right thickness. A little goes, a long way. You should easily be able to do the complete floor with a quart. Well worth the money. Everything is already torn out. It would be a shame not to now. But, what good would it be to protect the interior only, when rust can eat from the underside ?

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp282/pearljam 7...


Edited by pearljam724 on 02-17-16 10:58 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13744
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
02-18-16 09:10 AM - Post#2609742    
    In response to pearljam724

I would definitely pull up the old insulation and prime and paint the floor. Reason being any moisture that gets into that old insulation will take a very long time to migrate out, and will cause bad rust. When I was looking for solid floor panels for my 210 convertible in 1990, I found a yard in N.E. Okla. that had around twenty '53 or '54 cars. Every single car except for one had the floor rotted out. The single exception had had the carpeting and padding removed at some point before being junked. All the others had the carpet and padding intact and all had gotten wet over the years and stayed wet.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
235mark 
Contributor
Posts: 140

Loc: Washington State
Reg: 04-25-13
02-18-16 12:02 PM - Post#2609776    
    In response to rrausch

I concur with Mr. Rousch, clean them well 1st but i used rustoleum where needed and then installed the EZ-cool. a plug for Lobucrod .

1950 Fleetline 4 Door Deluxe
'61 235 w/ Fenton header and 2 Carter/Weber carbs
12 volt conv, HEI dist, bias ply wide whites, std. 3 speed and 355 glide rear end
stock susp. with stepped lower arms and lowering
springs and blocks.


 
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 887
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
02-18-16 08:55 PM - Post#2609862    
    In response to 235mark

Any other positive input on floor paint. I don't really want to mess with or inhale the Por-15 fumes. I did some drums on an old truck with Hammerite years ago and they are still nice.

Input or opinions welcome.

Roger

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5332
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
02-18-16 10:05 PM - Post#2609873    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

We did the firewall on the 51 Bus Coupe in a dark gray Hammerite, and the nephew painted the floors and trunk floor in a red primer/sealant that's also a rust converter, that I had on hand. I was't aware he had started doing that, but it turned out OK. I would have painted the floors black.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
jlcoff5089 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 81

Age: 77
Loc: Hamilton, Texas
Reg: 08-08-11
02-19-16 03:44 AM - Post#2609894    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

I have 51 Fleetline and a 72 Chevy Stepside. On the truck I just finished installing new carpet, but before I did I followed someone's recommendation and put down Phospo first then painted a coat of Kool-Seal, which is an insulating paint for metal roofs, then a layer of EZ Cool and finally the carpet.
On the 51 I have cleaned the floor and then did the Phospo and then a coat of primer and finally bought a kit from Lizard Skin.
I am not a fan of Por 15, just my opinion.



 
dsacton 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 999
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
02-19-16 03:21 PM - Post#2610003    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

When I was painting the interior of my '54, I went to a local auto paint dealer and he sold me a gallon of black paint for metal, that he said would be good for the interior. I ended up using POR-15. I would be happy to send you the gallon for postage, if you are interested. FYI--he said that, typically, the interior is shot the same color as the car body.

Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
usmile4 
"10th Year Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4200
usmile4
Age: 70
Loc: Aurora, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
02-19-16 04:02 PM - Post#2610007    
    In response to dsacton

My floors were in worse shape than yours. I had to weld in some patch panels and got new floors for the front. I painted my floors with Kool-Seal Xtra Lite which I got from Ace hardware. It is a latex based product that contains ceramic micro-spheres which is the same stuff as Lizard Skin. I put on about 5 coats over a period of a week letting each coat dry. I just slopped it on with a large brush. Then I covered it with EZ Cool.

Here are some pictures when I did the same thing to my 49.







Attachment: ac1.jpg (13.41 KB) 21 View(s)
Attachment: ac2.jpg (20.5 KB) 15 View(s)

Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


Edited by usmile4 on 02-19-16 04:09 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
hpva 
Contributor
Posts: 407
hpva
Age: 64
Loc: Kinderhook NY
Reg: 03-31-13
02-19-16 04:32 PM - Post#2610018    
    In response to usmile4

I used POR15 on the interior and trunk floor.I also used it in the bottom of my doors as well.

[URL=http://s275.photobucket.com/user/hpva53/media/Bel Air/Homers542014-03-27018 _zps7d64af95.jpg.html][IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj296/hpva53/B elAir/Homers542014-03-270 18_zps7d64af95.jpg[/IMG][/URL]


 
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 887
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
02-19-16 09:20 PM - Post#2610093    
    In response to usmile4

Thanks Bill, I like that process, I'm going with that.

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 
Blueseasons 
Contributor
Posts: 102

Reg: 10-13-11
02-23-16 11:23 AM - Post#2610928    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

When I was a young hack, and not a serious restorer, I would scrap the floors down to bare metal. Paint them with Rustoleum. At that time Rustoleum was made with fish oil and it really did a great job stopping rust. Then I'd paint the floor with roof tar. That would seal everything up, deaden some of the sound and last forever, or for at least as long as I owned the vehicle. It was also a great way to keep the metal patches I'd put down on holes from loosening up since I used sheet metal screws. I was also drinking Original Coors. Not that unleaded you drink, but I am not sure that has anything to do with anything.



Edited by Blueseasons on 02-23-16 11:24 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
mrspeedyt 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4

Reg: 11-13-12
02-24-16 01:37 AM - Post#2611112    
    In response to Blueseasons

most certainly the coors is a helpful ingredient for a more speedy work schedule. but in my opinion if the floor is looking that good just put the mat over it. it will probably outlive you anyway.



Edited by mrspeedyt on 02-24-16 01:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4110
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
02-24-16 01:45 PM - Post#2611224    
    In response to mrspeedyt

Hi, That's a nice floor. It should increase the value of your vehicle if you do a nice job on the floor. Getting rid of water holding materials is a big improve. Most of the surface treatments start with a neutralizer to deal with the surface corrosion. Generally this is some variation of dilute phosphoric acid. If you do this its good to make sure its a type you can apply and leave without washing out. The next important part is the porosity of the product you use. Plain auto primer will allow moisture through, whereas specialist treatments are not porous and often flexible enough to not crack and fail over time.
Some are toxic to breathe, and expensive by volume.
I have used Por15 with a respirator and found it goes a long way and flows out nicely off a brush. I wouldn't spray it as it adds a lot of cost in gear clean up, vs throwing away a paint brush. It's best to use the whole can in one go, or pour it into something else and cap the can straight away as it thickens through exposure to air borne moisture.
For a more authentic look on the underside I spray it after with a rubberized splatter coat from a spray can just so its not too shiny and over restored looking. The splatter coat also helps with road spray protection.
Take some pics as you go verify the quality of your resto.
Cheers kiwi


48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
Mcloud 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 59

Age: 65
Loc: NY
Reg: 12-02-14
02-25-16 01:40 PM - Post#2611438    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

Did this last summer on mine. Scrape off all matting & residues, leaving no areas that could collect moisture. I would not use POR-15, as it only sticks to bare metal; ... if you miss some spots, it will eventually separate. I used Rustoleum 'RUST REFORMER' spray, as it will adhere better to any paint you missed. Topcoated with Rustoleum satin black. It came out well, with no lifting of paint, and id now ready for carpeting. Best of luck with your project!

1950 Styleline Special, 216, 3-On-Tree, stock.


 
2D51STYDLX 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 887
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
02-25-16 08:45 PM - Post#2611521    
    In response to Mcloud

Just recently been checking out the rust reformer and i'm leaning that way, thanks for the vote of confidence.

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13744
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
02-26-16 08:56 AM - Post#2611587    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

Is Rust Reformer a primer? I've used it before, but I always used Rusty Metal Primer over it.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
53belair 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2376
53belair
Age: 62
Loc: Ellerslie, Georgia
Reg: 03-25-07
02-26-16 09:36 AM - Post#2611597    
    In response to rrausch

It is pretty much the same product as Rust Converter from Eastwood. It bonds to the rusty metal to form a thin polymeric coating. In principle it keeps out moisture and oxygen, therefore it can't oxidize. It can act as a primer. I MUST be top coated to protect it from UV light and to give it a thicker layer of protection. The film will be very thin and therefore easily scratched or penetrated. The Eastwood version is available in quarts and gallons as well as the aerosol. The rattle cans are good for small jobs.
  • rrausch Said:
Is Rust Reformer a primer? I've used it before, but I always used Rusty Metal Primer over it.




1953 Belair Sport Coupe,350/350/Fatman/Dako ta Digital/American Shifter/Southern Air/Ciadella Interiors
1967 Chevelle 396 Muncie
2010 Camaro II-SS
2011 Camaro Pace Car
2012 Tahoe


 
2cool65 
Contributor
Posts: 103
2cool65
Age: 82
Loc: Tucson, Arizona
Reg: 11-10-14
02-27-16 03:05 PM - Post#2611812    
    In response to 53belair

Just a note on the Eastwood product mentioned. It is wonderful on surface rust. I removed the loose stuff and sprayed one half, brushed the other half. I like the sprayed side better.

The caution is, it won't adhere well to unoxidized surfaces. Don't sand the rust down to bare metal. Otherwise, it made for a very nice primer on my floors.

There are only 10 kinds of people in the world; those who understand binary and those who don't.


 
deedeedodge 
Platinum Supporting member
Posts: 23
deedeedodge
Loc: Colorado
Reg: 01-14-11
11-28-17 12:45 PM - Post#2716108    
    In response to 2D51STYDLX

Lizard Skin, I think that’s what it’s called. I saw it at SEMA and will be putting it on my ‘56. I was also going to follow that with the silver, cool mat insolation.
More beers too please!

Each time my car starts, it's like the first time. You smile, were off to the next Car Show or Swap Meet. Life is Good!


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4110
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
11-28-17 05:54 PM - Post#2716173    
    In response to deedeedodge

Hi Roger, All the rust neutralizers will be some form of Phosphoric Acid, and one you can leave in place is ideal.

Most professionals don't use POR15 but then they tend to blast or dip the entire panel or shell.
So they are kitted up to use other products in power sprayers etc, that is way too much gear for home settings.

If you want to hit the floor with a wire wheel this will remove the flaky stuff and scour the surface of the paint. To insure product sticks to the painted area it would be a good idea to wash or wipe out the floor with prepsol to degrease and remove any waxy contaminants.

If you use POR15 then wear a proper respirator as the isocyanates involved are a nasty cumulative toxin. I use the cheapest basting brushes I can find and the best disposable gloves. Put old bolts into the floor mount holes if you don't want to re-tap some that fill with drips. Don't leave the lid off the tin and have some other product to coat with the extra material. Say the spare wheel well or trunk floor. It don't store well at all.

I have never used a pint, and that would be a huge area to work that would probably require spray painting. I open the can with a paint tin opener to keep the shape true. Pour some into a dish/jar and very carefully wipe the can lip clean. Push the lid in firmly and put flat lumber on top to tap it closed.
I store it upside down so it skins on the bottom and plan to use it all that week.

And yes I have done the entire underside of a unibody car that way, on axle stands. Hairnet, painters suit, gloves and socks tapped on. Then covered most of it up with spray on rubberized underseal. Also did the axle housing, the front cross member, most of the suspension and steering parts, etc.

And now you know why I have a two post hoist in my lounge space


Cheers Kiwi



48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


Edited by Bel Air kiwi on 11-28-17 05:55 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
gsnort 
"2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 78
gsnort
Loc: Waupun, Wisconsin
Reg: 05-06-16
11-29-17 07:40 AM - Post#2716244    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

I used POR-15 on the underside of the '47 Ford pickup I built for my older grandson about eight years ago. It's still adhering well. I've also used POR-20 on exhaust headers and manifolds. Great products.



 

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