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 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: FITech        (Topic#332317)
Jim.Biron 
"10th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
01-19-16 07:21 AM - Post#2603234    

Anyone using one of these?
Ever hear of one n a straight 6? (4 bbl manifold of course)

Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 




ShelbyDogg 
Contributor
Posts: 106
ShelbyDogg
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 07-05-09
02-13-16 07:30 PM - Post#2608623    
    In response to Jim.Biron

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fif-30003

New company, selling through summit and Jegs too. They also have a couple of video links out there. Do a google search. Seems like a cheaper alternative self learning, injector-throttle body setup using a wideband Bosch O2 sensor

Rob
V3 Megasquirt, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, F.A.S.T. EZ-EFI

My restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=...


 
cbernhardt 
Senior Member
Posts: 561
cbernhardt
Loc: Lexington,NC
Reg: 08-28-00
02-14-16 05:52 AM - Post#2608673    
    In response to Jim.Biron

Here is a link to an installation (not yet complete) of one of the FiTech throttle bodies. I was particularly interested in how the "Fuel Command Center" works since I was considering it for a future project.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corv ...

Charles



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
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bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
04-17-16 06:11 AM - Post#2622273    
    In response to cbernhardt

I know this thread is 2 months old. I was looking at these from Summit. They have a $100 rebate until May 31. It looks very enticing. Has anyone tried one yet?

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3990

Reg: 12-29-02
04-17-16 04:32 PM - Post#2622425    
    In response to bowtie44s

Try the Google search for build and review threads as posted earlier.

The system seems to be decent but a few people have had issues with the FCC. I'd run a in-tank pump if possible.



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
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bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
04-17-16 06:02 PM - Post#2622447    
    In response to 65_Impala

  • 65_Impala Said:
Try the Google search for build and review threads as posted earlier.



I have. I read the one on the Corvette forum. I still have some unanswered questions. I can't find the CFM anywhere. I was wondering if the secondaries are a progressive linkage like a Holley carburetor. I was also wondering if you could adjust the air fuel ratio or if you were stuck with where they set it which would more than likely be rich.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
cbernhardt 
Senior Member
Posts: 561
cbernhardt
Loc: Lexington,NC
Reg: 08-28-00
04-18-16 04:33 AM - Post#2622504    
    In response to bowtie44s

  • bowtie44s Said:
  • 65_Impala Said:
Try the Google search for build and review threads as posted earlier.



I have. I read the one on the Corvette forum. I still have some unanswered questions. I can't find the CFM anywhere. I was wondering if the secondaries are a progressive linkage like a Holley carburetor. I was also wondering if you could adjust the air fuel ratio or if you were stuck with where they set it which would more than likely be rich.



I emailed Fitech and asked if the AFR's were user programmable and received the following:
"simply put in target air fuel ratio's at certain RPM and load points.And the computer will tune accordingly."

They sell a 4 injector system and an 8 injector system. I asked about putting the system on a 620 HP engine and I was told that I would need the 8 injector system which flows 850 CFM.

Charles





 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3867
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
04-18-16 10:08 AM - Post#2622594    
    In response to cbernhardt

850 CFM sounds a little small for 800hp which is what the 8 injector unit is supposed to do. I've also read 1200hp but Summit lists it as 800. I think I may give it a try.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3990

Reg: 12-29-02
04-19-16 09:48 AM - Post#2622908    
    In response to bowtie44s

  • bowtie44s Said:
  • 65_Impala Said:
Try the Google search for build and review threads as posted earlier.



I have. I read the one on the Corvette forum. I still have some unanswered questions. I can't find the CFM anywhere. I was wondering if the secondaries are a progressive linkage like a Holley carburetor. I was also wondering if you could adjust the air fuel ratio or if you were stuck with where they set it which would more than likely be rich.




You asked if anyone had used it. there are lots of forums with threads about people using it if you want to read about real-world experiences.

Now, you suddenly seem to want specific information about it. Well, call the damn company and get the info directly from the source.



 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3867
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
04-19-16 05:17 PM - Post#2623002    
    In response to 65_Impala

  • 65_Impala Said:
You asked if anyone had used it. there are lots of forums with threads about people using it if you want to read about real-world experiences.

Now, you suddenly seem to want specific information about it. Well, call the damn company and get the info directly from the source.



I didn't realize I wasn't allowed to discuss or ask multiple questions on the same post. I sent an email to Fitech and was waiting on a reply when I posted this. I can't call because I work 12 hrs a day and customer service is closed when I can call.

He said all of their units are 835 CFM. He said they like to see lobe separation 110° or wider. Yes, you set your target AFR at different rpms.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
ChevelleFan 
Contributor
Posts: 334
ChevelleFan
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 06-04-04
05-03-16 03:35 PM - Post#2626061    
    In response to bowtie44s

If you want to read an in-depth thread on this, I suggest the one on chevelles.com, http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-efi/835633- fite...

Cliff Notes:
The Fuel Command Center (FCC) has proven to be problematic for several people. Bob, the author of this thread, ended up getting a Tanks Inc. EFI tank and is pretty happy with the FiTech EFI once the fuel delivery issue was resolved. He's slightly faster in the 1/4 versus his carb, high 11s @ 115.

I also have a Tanks Inc unit in my Chevelle and would highly recommend anyone check out their offerings if you're doing an EFI conversion.

-Dave

'70 Chevelle ZZ383/700r4/3.55 Megasquirt2-Extra, 12.25 @ 108 / Hotchkis A-arms / Hotchkis Springs / B-body 12" brakes / 1.25" F-body swaybar


 
4dr 57 
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4dr 57
Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
05-05-16 02:24 PM - Post#2626517    
    In response to ChevelleFan


Sounds like another throttle body injector just hit the market. What ever happened to s.f.i.?

It's all good. mostly




 
ChevelleFan 
Contributor
Posts: 334
ChevelleFan
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 06-04-04
05-07-16 01:50 PM - Post#2626890    
    In response to 4dr 57

TBI is a real easy conversion on old V8s since it doesn't require a new intake manifold, complex wiring harness, and can utilize existing distributor/ignition. It can work reasonably well too. I understand the appeal, even if I also understand it's not as a good as port-EFI setup.

-Dave


'70 Chevelle ZZ383/700r4/3.55 Megasquirt2-Extra, 12.25 @ 108 / Hotchkis A-arms / Hotchkis Springs / B-body 12" brakes / 1.25" F-body swaybar


 
Bruces 57 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2373

Reg: 01-03-07
05-14-16 01:42 PM - Post#2628221    
    In response to ChevelleFan

Hello;
Have been considering FI change from my carberator.
FITech has a new version for engines producing 400 HP!! Mine is one of those kind of engines! Price is $795. Plus fuel system.
I have a problem I am trying to resolve in the fact that the ethanol boils at such a lower temp than gas without it. I have taken the top off my carb to actually see fuel boiling in the carb!!!
I only hope that some person comes up with a cure for boiling gas in the carb, then I wouldn't need a FI system!

Bruce



 
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10058
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
06-18-16 09:54 AM - Post#2634661    
    In response to bowtie44s

  • bowtie44s Said:


I didn't realize I wasn't allowed to discuss or ask multiple questions on the same post. I sent an email to Fitech and was waiting on a reply when I posted this.



Don't let a single user's comments keep you from asking questions here. Hello. It's a discussion forum.

On another note, last month I helped a friend install the 400hp FiTech system and Fuel Command Center on a 383. We initially had a couple small issues, but both were resolved by FiTech tech support, which is very responsive.

After 100 miles or so of freeway and suburban driving, he's very happy with the system, especially its manners after cold startup. The engine starts immediately, and settles down to a consistent 850 RPM idle. And when up-to-temp, it runs very well at all throttle positions.

Sometime this summer, we'll probably remove the distributor advance mechanisms and let the ECU control the MSD 6A box.

The only thing I don't like about the kit is the push-on fuel hoses are VERY difficult to install on the included hose ends. We needed lubricant and a heat gun to do it. I've used push-on hoses in the past, but have never seen any this hard to install.



1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


Edited by MikeB on 06-18-16 10:13 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
greg_moreira 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3272

Reg: 10-06-03
09-30-16 09:46 PM - Post#2654276    
    In response to MikeB

Just wanted to chime in here. I've been using the 600 horsepower system on one of my cars since the beginning of the summer and love it.

Don't hate me but this one isn't a Chevy. It's a ford but worth talking about given the thread topic.

Anyhow the build is a 351w stroked to 408 and it's a pretty rowdy motor making 550 plus horsepower and only 8 inches of vacuum and has been 10.70's in the car (85 mustang).

It starts easy. I drive the heck out of it and get better than 15 mpg if I'm just cruising, and it beats any carb I lve had on this motor. It's highly adjustable also.

One last thing. I did not use their fuel system options. Too many folks reporting problems so I built my own.



 
LUVmachine 
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Age: 36
Loc: Redding Ca
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10-03-16 09:28 PM - Post#2654758    
    In response to greg_moreira

  • Quote:

One last thing. I did not use their fuel system options. Too many folks reporting problems so I built my own




Greg, what exactly do you mean by that? I have been thinking about trying one of these on my 454 with the 177 baby blower. The only real reviews I have seen on this is the TV show engine power. I know these shows are used to promote products so between that and the few mixed reviews about trouble with the command center I haven't ordered one of these.

Does it have different settings as far as being able to tune it for max power or an economy type setting? I have a lot of questions I just haven't had really done any serious research yet.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3867
bowtie44s
Age: 35
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
10-04-16 03:30 AM - Post#2654780    
    In response to LUVmachine

I have mine and hope to get time to install it in the next week or two. Mine is going in an 88 Silverado. It came with a TBI which had an in tank pump. It operated at 12 psi. The vortec 454 pump will fit right in my sending unit and it operates at 60 psi. The FiTech is regulated at 58psi, so in theory, it should work well. I didn't want to spend the $350 or whatever on the command center and prefer a quiet, fuel cooled, in tank pump.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
greg_moreira 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3272

Reg: 10-06-03
10-04-16 07:51 AM - Post#2654806    
    In response to LUVmachine

  • LUVmachine Said:
  • Quote:

One last thing. I did not use their fuel system options. Too many folks reporting problems so I built my own




Greg, what exactly do you mean by that? I have been thinking about trying one of these on my 454 with the 177 baby blower. The only real reviews I have seen on this is the TV show engine power. I know these shows are used to promote products so between that and the few mixed reviews about trouble with the command center I haven't ordered one of these.

Does it have different settings as far as being able to tune it for max power or an economy type setting? I have a lot of questions I just haven't had really done any serious research yet.



They gear these things to carb users and "most" carb guys have a single fuel line with a modest electric pump or mechanical pump, delivering somewhere around 6lbs of fuel pressure. This kind of fuel system cannot support EFI.

Fitech offers a "fuel command center" that is supposed to integrate into your stock fuel system. Basically it's a big canister(fuel reserve) with another pump in it.

Your factory system delivers fuel to the command center and fills it up. The pump in the command center then ramps up the fuel pressure to run the efi unit.

Great idea if it didn't seem to be so hit or miss. Too many reports of issues with the fuel command center.

I elected to get rid of my carb fuel setup all together and just run send and return fuel lines like efi typically uses along with a good high volume pump with the kind of pressure needed for efi.

About turning...yes it's incredibly tunable. You can tell it the afr to operate at under various conditions. With the handheld controller and a friendly interface you can tell it to idle and cruise at a lean/mileage friendly 14:1 for example.

You can tune it to cut fuel when you are coasting just like modern efi.

I'm making north of 550 horsepower in a car that has run high 10.70's and getting 15 plus miles per gallon when I just cruise...so it is definitely nice




 
LUVmachine 
Frequent Contributor
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Age: 36
Loc: Redding Ca
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10-04-16 10:24 AM - Post#2654845    
    In response to greg_moreira

I like the idea of the command center for easy installation. I have heard people say there has been issues but haven't heard exactly what issues they have had. Like I said I am interested in this but I haven't had a chance to do any real research on it. I pulled up their website this morning but didn't get a chance to get very far. I also am on the fence with the timing control I need a lot of initial but not a crazy amount of total. I am probably only making about 5 psi of boost but I like the fact that it is constantly monitoring air fuel ratio.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
bowtie44s 
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bowtie44s
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10-04-16 10:34 AM - Post#2654849    
    In response to LUVmachine

You can still use whatever ignition you currently have. You don't have to let it control timing. I am going to continue to use my vacuum advance HEI. You guys really have me hoping I can get mine done this weekend.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
greg_moreira 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3272

Reg: 10-06-03
10-04-16 12:14 PM - Post#2654869    
    In response to bowtie44s

  • bowtie44s Said:
You can still use whatever ignition you currently have. You don't have to let it control timing. I am going to continue to use my vacuum advance HEI. You guys really have me hoping I can get mine done this weekend.



Exactly. I elected to keep my ignition as is and not let the fitech control timing. It's only really capable of a basic timing curve so I didn't see any good reason to change it up. My msd is sufficient for timing duty




 
LUVmachine 
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Loc: Redding Ca
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10-04-16 05:08 PM - Post#2654908    
    In response to greg_moreira

I sent the fiTech website an email earlier today to ask a couple of questions regarding the up to 600 hp kit (I think it was part #30004). I guess I will see how fast they respond and depending on what answer I get I will make an order. They have a good deal of information on their website but of course the question I asked wasn't in the Q&A section.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
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bowtie44s
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10-04-16 05:32 PM - Post#2654914    
    In response to LUVmachine

They usually reply in 24hrs unless it's a weekend. What is your question? I asked them a lot of questions and did a lot of research and read a lot of reviews. I got the 8 injector kit. It is the 30008 supposedly suitable for 800hp. It was $995 and they had a $100 rebate. That is what pushed me over the edge. You will need the "power adder" unit since you have forced induction.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
LUVmachine 
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10-05-16 06:50 AM - Post#2654986    
    In response to bowtie44s

The question I asked has to do whether or not I needed the power adder setup. I don't know much about anything fuel injection/throttle body injection related. My current setup is using a Holley double pumper with out being boost referenced. It's a very mild setup that probably makes 5 psi of boost max. Being that it's such a mild setup and I really don't have any plans of upgrading it because it is just a street truck that already over powers the tires and suspension I wanted to see if I could go with the kit that I listed previously.

I think that using the kit I mentioned would be in upgrade in cfm rating over my 750cfm carb. But the part that I really don't know much about is the what I believe is the map sensor and how it works especially if involved in any type of forced induction.

Like I said if don't need to go bigger than the 600 hp kit I won't. My setup has never been on the dyno but I would guess I'm probably around the 500 hp mark and that is more than enough for a street truck.

Also I still have not heard back from fiTech yet.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
bowtie44s 
Valued Contributor
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bowtie44s
Age: 35
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10-05-16 04:46 PM - Post#2655085    
    In response to LUVmachine

I am surprised they didn't get back with you, all though that was this morning you posted it.

They will definitely tell you that you need the power adder. They say it is needed for forced induction or nitrous. I don't know how the map sensor would react to positive pressure when it is looking for negative pressure or vacuum. When the vacuum drops, it richens the mixture like the power valve in your Holley. It SHOULD richen when you're making boost since the vacuum is so low that it's positive, but I don't know. You're right, that's a good question for the tech line, but I'll bet they want to sell you the power adder.

Jeff

'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap


 
LUVmachine 
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Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 10-02-14
10-05-16 05:54 PM - Post#2655111    
    In response to bowtie44s

I think I am loosing my mind now I can't remember when I emailed them. I'm pretty sure it was yesterday morning or yesterday while I was eating lunch.

Either way I'm still waiting for my a reply. I'm sure they will want to sell me the power adder version. Which makes me wonder what the difference is. I also did some research and read some information on another forum related to the issues with the fuel command center. It sounds like most people that were having issues were able to correct it by turning the pwm down. I think I actually saw a link to how to do it on the fiTech website although I didn't click it.

I guess if I don't hear anything back by tomorrow I will try to call them. Several post I read talked about how the owner of the company personally talked to people with issues to try to solve the problems. Some other people with the cammand center issues also said the tech support people were trying to blame the problem on the installation. Either way I would like to hear back from someone so I can figure out exactly what I need and figure out if its really something i want to go through.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
greg_moreira 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3272

Reg: 10-06-03
10-05-16 09:06 PM - Post#2655146    
    In response to LUVmachine

  • LUVmachine Said:
The question I asked has to do whether or not I needed the power adder setup. I don't know much about anything fuel injection/throttle body injection related. My current setup is using a Holley double pumper with out being boost referenced. It's a very mild setup that probably makes 5 psi of boost max. Being that it's such a mild setup and I really don't have any plans of upgrading it because it is just a street truck that already over powers the tires and suspension I wanted to see if I could go with the kit that I listed previously.

I think that using the kit I mentioned would be in upgrade in cfm rating over my 750cfm carb. But the part that I really don't know much about is the what I believe is the map sensor and how it works especially if involved in any type of forced induction.

Like I said if don't need to go bigger than the 600 hp kit I won't. My setup has never been on the dyno but I would guess I'm probably around the 500 hp mark and that is more than enough for a street truck.

Also I still have not heard back from fiTech yet.



You are going to want the efi kit for boost for sure. I'm sure the regular one would pitch a fit based on the map sensor difference alone.


Don't get hung up on horsepower ratings. You can put the 800 horsepower kit on a 250 horsepower 307 with no issue.

Efi is not the same principle of a carb. When we size a carb based on cfm...we're really sizing the Venturi to engine demand. Too large of a Venturi means less signal in the Venturi and that means the carb doesn't pull fuel right.

None of that applies to efi because you don't need a pressure drop to get the fuel moving and atomized. The injector does the work here.

Just as an FYI though they do sell a 600 horsepower boost friendly kit




 
LUVmachine 
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Reg: 10-02-14
10-06-16 06:51 AM - Post#2655190    
    In response to greg_moreira

Still no answer back from fiTech.

I'm really starting wonder what the difference is between the regular version and power adder version. The only thing i have read is it is setup for up to 25 psi boost. How that varies between the two throttle bodies makes me think that they are the exact same and the only difference is in the tuning software. The power adder version claims to have a lot of adjustment for using nitrous. Something that I don't need or want. I guess I will patiently wait a little longer for an answer. Its not like I am ready to do the installation today.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3990

Reg: 12-29-02
10-06-16 07:17 AM - Post#2655193    
    In response to LUVmachine

The difference is likely the MAP sensor used. The 1-bar map sensor used on N/A applications can't measure boost. To measure up to 25lbs they must be switching to a 3-bar sensor which could actually measure up to around 29lbs of boost.

Another difference would be the MAP sensor connection. Their normal system has the MAP sensor plumbed into the throttle body where it measures pressure at the base - basically connected to the equivalent of the manifold vacuum ports on a carb. To measure the boost with your supercharger the MAP has to be connected to the manifold under the supercharger. The MAP sensor will be remote mounted or there will be a hose nipple on the throttle body you have to plumb under the supercharger.

There are multiple ways to do a fuel system without their FCC. Search Ebay for "fuel surge tank" and you will get lots of results with the tanks typically in the $30 to $100 range. There are 2 popular cheap ways to go.

Use a simple surge tank with an external electric pump. In this case, you need a tank with 4 fittings total and at least 1 fittings on the bottom and 1 on the top. The bottom fitting is to feed an external pump. The top fitting is to vent the surge tank back to the main tank.

The other way is to use a surge tank which is built so you can install a Bosch 044 type pump into it. You'll see how this version works when you do a search. Once again it needs at least 1 fitting on the top to vent the surge tank back to the main tank.

In either case, I would buy the tank from Ebay and source a name brand pump from a reliable US source because I believe there is too big a chance Ebay pumps coming from China will be knock-offs.

Any surge tank can be fed via a suitable mechanical pump. They all (even the FiTech FCC) require a small return line of some kind from the top of the surge tank going back to the main tank which allows air to be purged from the surge tank. You can use a quite small return line because it just has to allow any air in the surge tank to flow back to the main tank. You can even use a orifice to block most of the return flow so the fuel isn't circulating more than necessary.





 




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