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 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: 53 Chevy 210 project        (Topic#331020)
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-05-15 02:17 AM - Post#2593418    

Well the tear down has begun. Before I get into what I have done recently, I'll fill you in with previous work. When I bought the car in 2012, the brakes were not working. After I got the car to my dad's shop, I also discovered there was water in the 74 Nova rear end. So I ended up getting a 95 S10 Blazer rear end with 3.42 gears, I installed a master cylinder and power brake booster from an 87 Fiero, a new gas tank, after market guages in the dash, new stereo system, aluminum radiator, seat belts, and painted the dashboard.
One lesson I learned in buying this car is making sure you verify what you are buying. The owner told me it had a 350 with a 350 transmission. I discovered after the fact that it is a 305. The engine is burning about a quart of oil every 200 miles so I will be getting rid of this engine.

Now that all that is out of the way, let's get started.



I started tearing the car apart the week before Thanksgiving. Just before that though, I bought an 86 Jaguar that I pulled the IFS out of.




I pulled the calipers off and painted them black. The rotors, other than surface rust, look new, as well as the brake pads. I'm hoping the rack and pinion is good.



That is as far as I have gotten on on the Jag front end so far.

Now onto the rust and boy is there a lot of it.

















As you can see on this picture, there is a pretty good size hole in the frame. It wasn't quite this bad when I got the car.








Attachment: 20150703_162219.jpg (3.26 MB) 118 View(s)




53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
DEEDDUDE 
Contributor
Posts: 116
DEEDDUDE
Loc: Beach City, Texas
Reg: 11-06-11
12-05-15 09:32 AM - Post#2593464    
    In response to postalcop

Good Luck on the build. The quarters aren't that though to replace. Check out my build and you'll see the rot I cut out. The frame could be repair fairly easy also.

My build thread

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-06-15 09:13 PM - Post#2593848    
    In response to postalcop

I got more of the car taken apart. After taking the fenders off, the motor and transmission were next. I'm hoping I can sell them to help fund this project.



With those out of the car, the body was ready to come off the frame.








53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-06-15 10:36 PM - Post#2593865    
    In response to postalcop

Here is a better look at the rust on the frame.



I got a cut off tool and removed the worst part of the frame.



My dad had a piece of steel the same thickness as the frame. He cut a piece and welded it in.



Yesterday I went to the shop and got the front suspension off.





And yet another thing to put up on craigslist.

Well, I slid the Jag suspension under the frame and got it measured out where I think it should fit. I got the wheel base the same as the old suspension. We also cross measured the ball joints to a couple points on the frame.





I took a measurement of the bottom of the front of the frame to the floor with the original suspension while the body was still on the frame. I took a measurement with the Jag suspension without the body on the frame and it looks like it is about an inch and a half lower. I will double check once the body is back on the frame.


53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4233
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
12-07-15 03:59 AM - Post#2593888    
    In response to postalcop

Hi Postal cop. Do you want some picks of the brackets we made to fit a jag front end. Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-07-15 07:24 AM - Post#2593918    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

53chevy sent me pictures of the brackets he made but I would like to check out other options, so yeah, I'd like to see what you did.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-07-15 09:12 PM - Post#2594120    
    In response to postalcop

Nothing exciting today. Someone bought my 305 today for $100 so happy about that. I was thinking of sandblasting the frame but my dad has a product called rust mort that can be applied over the rust. My brother-in-law applied it to his frame a couple of years ago and the paint still looks great. I bought a wire brush for my drill and got the rust knocked down on about half the frame.



It cleaned up nice but I found more rust that needs to be fixed.





The spot that I repaired earlier is on the passenger side of the frame. There is a smaller hole on the driver side that needed to be addressed so I removed the bracket to cut that section of frame.



About the only other thing I did was get some de-greaser and applied it to the front half of the frame as it was covered in oil from the engine leaking so bad.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-09-15 05:48 AM - Post#2594354    
    In response to postalcop

I bought some degreaser and with the the help of a power washer, I got the frame pretty clean so I could continue with wire brushing it. I also power washed the inside of the car as there was quite a bit of dirt in it. Finally I used degreaser and the power washer on the underside of the car to clean the oil off there.

I sandblasted the bracket on the driver's side near the hole in the frame I had to fix.



Using my dad's cut off wheel, I then cut off the back part of the frame that was rusted pretty bad. I'll have to have someone make a piece or find a square metal tube that could work.



I wirebrushed the rest of the top of the frame down and am about ready to apply the rust mort.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
Fitzback 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1280
Fitzback
Age: 54
Loc: St-Hyacinthe, Qc. Can.
Reg: 01-23-08
12-09-15 05:00 PM - Post#2594483    
    In response to postalcop

Good job!

your frame rust remind me something...

Fitz.

La vie est belle! 1953 Pontiac Pathfinder deLuxe 2 doors sedan + Victory Vision tour

Fitz



 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-11-15 11:52 AM - Post#2594861    
    In response to postalcop

Did more wirebrushing on Wed. and Thurs. and finished the top part of the frame and underneath the car. Now I need to get some welding done.



This is the product that I applied to the frame. You just brush it on and apply 3 coats. It just about turns the rust black.





53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4233
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
12-22-15 02:22 PM - Post#2597080    
    In response to postalcop

Hi Postalcop. I would be sand blasting that frame with an aggressive unit as it tells you how bad they really are. I know you have started repairing that frame but there must be hundreds of better ones just lying around the country and I am sure other forum members would help you out searching.
Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
04-19-16 06:24 AM - Post#2622849    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

I actually have seen a couple cars around my area that were being parted out. I don't think the frame was bad enough to have to replace. It's just extra work and not really costing me anything to fix. I would rather spend the money elsewhere.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
04-19-16 06:50 AM - Post#2622860    
    In response to postalcop

Many apologies guys. I got sidetracked. Partly because of overtime and partly because of working midnights. Anyway, I finally got back down to the shop this month and have some progress to report. One thing is for sure, I need to work on this thing more than once every 4 months.

My dad worked on it some. This is how he repaired the rear passenger side frame.






Here is one side of the frame that had been cut out after body putty and primer.



And the other side.



Dad got the frame flipped over so we could fix more rust.



I've got more pictures I will post later tonight. Time to head to the shop and get some more work done.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
04-25-16 07:31 PM - Post#2624320    
    In response to postalcop

Well I was able to get quite a bit of work done this week so I will get you caught up. I cut the top half of that rail off and welded in a piece of angle iron with the help of my dad.

As you can see, there was a lot of crud inside. No wonder it rusted.


After cleaning all the crud out, I got a piece of angle iron and cut it to length.


Since the back side was wider than the front, I cut a slit down part of it and just welded it up.


Action shot of my dad welding.




This was a spot on the back of the frame that had rusted through. A piece of metal had already been welded on the other side. I just welded this piece in to fill in the gap.


I figured as long as I had the primer out, I primered the bottom of my front suspension.



I applied a couple of coats of Rust Mort and finally got the frame primered. Saturday I scuffed the primer down with a scuff pad and painted it black. I also went ahead and did the rear end too.






So that is where I am at now. I'm going to be working a lot of overtime the next few weeks so I don't know when I'll be able to get another update.




53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
hubba-hubba 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 30
hubba-hubba
Age: 76
Loc: 10 miles south of Tenness...
Reg: 05-02-14
04-25-16 09:15 PM - Post#2624340    
    In response to postalcop

Have you considered using the Jag IRS if you still have the remains of the doner car ? Those rear setups are to die for. You'll get 4 wheel disc brakes, IRS, 4 coil over shocks, inboard disc brakes , posi-trac rear , and the wheel bolt pattern is same as the Chev., all contained in a stamped metal cage that bolts in (and out) as a complete unit. Just a little more fab work...
It would be a shame not to use it with the frame at the point you have it in now.
I'm assuming they are the same on your car as the earlier year cars. I have both out of a 76 XJ12 and it has all those features. I plan to eventually put it all under my 51 Bel Air and wish i had mine at the stage yours is at.










54 Stude C body Starlight coupe (under construction)
51 Chev. 2dr hardtop (under construction)
1980 Ridged frame shovel-head built 1985 -1987
92 C1500 Lowrider
67 Triumph Ridged frame 650 built 1980



 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
04-25-16 10:52 PM - Post#2624348    
    In response to hubba-hubba

I thought about it. I haven't seen a whole lot on it and was afraid it would be a bigger pain in the censored to do than it was worth. I do still have the car.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
05-17-16 03:44 AM - Post#2628772    
    In response to postalcop

I just realized I hadn't shown the brackets I made to bolt the frame to the Jag suspension. The mechanic next door gave me a piece of 1/4" thick angle iron. I cut two 14" pieces from that and drilled hole for the bolts. I then welded two bolts in the back to basically make them studs. I got the idea for these from one of the members here, 53chevy.





I went to the shop yesterday and started taking the rest of the moldings off the car.



For those that haven't seen them, these are the clips that hold the moldings on the top of the door and part of the molding that is below the rear window. That molding also has nuts that need to be taken off too. These moldings were a pain in the butt to get off. I used a screwdriver but I wasn't worried about scratching paint either.


My dad got the inner and outer rocker panels cut away on the passenger side.



53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
Habitual 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 15
Habitual
Age: 49
Loc: Franklin Co. NC
Reg: 03-26-16
05-19-16 06:48 PM - Post#2629387    
    In response to postalcop

Looking good.... this is keeping me motivated



 
rickityfifty 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Memebr
Posts: 82
rickityfifty
Loc: south australia
Reg: 10-08-14
06-05-16 04:22 PM - Post#2632289    
    In response to Bel Air kiwi

Hi Kiwi,
did you hard mount or soft mount your Jag ifs?
I would like to go the soft way but others have said it created clearance problems.

1952 Chevy Business Coupe
1967 Chevy C10 Panel Truck SOLD
2005 Holden Rodeo Pickup (Isuzu)
1923 Tbucket SOLD


 
drew1987 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3006
drew1987
Age: 30
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
06-13-16 10:41 AM - Post#2633664    
    In response to rickityfifty

looking great!

What did you use for finding the axel centerline on both and making sure it was the same? Perhaps its obvious but I am asking with neither suspension in front of me =)

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
06-13-16 04:51 PM - Post#2633737    
    In response to drew1987

I took several measurements. My dad and I measured the center of the wheels hubs from front to back with the original suspension and then did the same with the Jag suspension so the wheel base would be the same. We also cross measured using the ball joints on the Jag suspension to two points on the frame. One of the members, 53chevy, emailed me a nice tutorial on how he did it. That's where I got the idea for the brackets.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
496bb 
Poster
Posts: 19

Reg: 02-13-15
06-16-16 12:26 PM - Post#2634334    
    In response to postalcop

Could you share the tutorial with me? I have a Jag IFS waiting to go in my 49 Fleetline when I get the front end off and engine/trans out. Looked at all the threads I can find, gathered alot of good info but always can use some more and some lessons learned by those that have done it. Thanks.

lawdog49@gmail.com



Edited by 496bb on 06-16-16 12:44 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
11-15-16 05:29 AM - Post#2661674    
    In response to postalcop

Sorry guys. I'm bad about posting updates. Anyway I have been working on the car and have some progress to show off. We'll start off with what I got done in June.

My dad actually did a lot of the welding on the passenger side as I did not have much confidence in my welding skills.
The passenger side had been hit at some point and had quite a bit of body putty and rust. This work was all done in June.



The quarter panels and rocker panels are EMS panels.












53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
11-15-16 06:05 AM - Post#2661677    
    In response to postalcop

I made it back down to the shop in July. Dad and I got the body work done and dad primered the passenger side.





With the passenger side finished I cut away the rusted panels on the driver's side.





So here is where I decided to get brave. I got out the new body panels and proceeded to fit them up to the car. I cut them where needed and clamped the inner and outer rockers up to the car. I figured I had them fitting good so I decided to weld them myself.





I then did the same with the front and rear quarter panels. This ended up being a mistake as dad later pointed out to me that I had not measured the distance from the ground to the quarter panel near the tire. The driver's side sits about an inch high than the passenger side. My advice is make sure you take your measurements!





Using paint stripper, I managed to get down to the primer.



D/A with some 80 grit paper got me down to the metal.



The EMS panels are ok. The rockers fit great. The quarters on the other hand were a different matter. The rock guards that go on in front of the tires did not fit after I did my welding. This could be due to something I did wrong. I had been up in the air about using them and this pretty much made my decision for me. No moldings.



Dad had the passenger side fitting good but this is unusable.
The only other thing I didn't like about the panels is they have a rounded edge going around the wheel well as opposed to the sharper edge on the car.







53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
11-15-16 07:01 AM - Post#2661682    
    In response to postalcop

There was a lot of surface rust where the moldings go, so I put on a rust preventative paint. After I put that on, dad and I welded up the holes where the rock guard moldings go. All of this work was done in October.





With that finished we put a couple coats of primer over it. The door was in great shape and had no rust or dents to repair.





Body putty was applied and sanded.



More primer added once the body work was done.



The deck lid was in excellent condition. I just used some 220 sand paper on the inside. The outside got stripper and a D/A with 80 grit paper. No dents or rust.





So that is where I am at right now. I am heading down to the shop this week and taking the body back off the frame so we can repair the inner quarter panels. Instead of buying them, we are going to fabricate something.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
11-27-17 09:01 PM - Post#2716019    
    In response to postalcop

Wow, it's been a year since the last update. What a slacker. So i have been working night shift for the past 2 years and would only go to the shop when I took a week off. I am now on day shift and have more time to work on the car. I also did some work on my house at the beginning of the year. I do, however have updates to give dating back to last year. I apologize for not posting these sooner.

Let's get you all caught up.

I needed to make some patches for the inside of the quarters. Rather than buy from EMS, I had some sheet metal that was not too thick and easy to work with so this is what I came up with. When dad ordered the outer quarters, the guy at EMS asked if he wanted the inners too. Dad said we were going to make them. The guy told dad it couldn't be done. I think I did alright.














So what I did on the rear of the quarter between the tire and bumper is I made it in 3 sections.







Now, does it look as pretty as buying reproduction? No. Nor is the gauge of metal as heavy. However, how many people are even going to notice?

This is the piece that is under the trunk in the back of the car. We got this from EMS and rather than replace the whole thing, we just replaced the sections that were gone.





Here is the passenger quarter with it's final coat of body putty.



The bottom of the area that hold the spare tire was rusted through so I made a patch for it.





The floorboards weren't too bad. Just a few spots rusted through. Here I made a patch on the passenger side where the seat bolts in. I had to do the same on the driver side.





This is the driver side welded in.



I have more pictures to download but I at least wanted to get started back on this build thread.
More pictures tomorrow.


53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
11-28-17 09:50 PM - Post#2716218    
    In response to postalcop

Ok, I have some more pictures. I used Por-15 underneath the car. Brushed it all on. It was a bit messy but turned out pretty good.





Driver side quarter panel primered and sanded with 80 grit paper and a sanding block.



Same on the passenger side.



Quarters re-primered and ready to water sand. Roof is ready to water sand too.





So the front driver side fender had damage right on the ridge that had been previously repaired and not very well. Dad tried fixing it but it just wasn't coming out right so I found one for $150 on Craigslist. Turned out to be a real life saver.





Got it stripped down and only had one small dent and some surface rust. Very good shape.







I used Por-15 on the inside of both fenders and got them primered.





The previous owner had cut a big section of the front valance panel to fit a late model radiator in. I made a new piece and welded it in. I threw some body putty on it and even got one of my sons in on the action.







So that brings us up to about July. I started working on the hood in October. Fortunately it is in pretty good shape.



I tried using stripper on the top of it to no avail. It barely did anything to the lacquer that was on it. lol



Got the epoxy primer on it.







53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
11-29-17 10:39 PM - Post#2716343    
    In response to postalcop

So a couple weeks ago I took a very short break from body work and finally got around to changing the wheel studs because the Jag studs are bigger diameter than the Chevy.



Got them put back on. The previous owner must have just done the brakes because the bearings inside were very well greased. Also the brake pads look brand new.



So, two weeks ago I took everything off the firewall and cut out the two supports on it. I took out the heater core and blower motor. I then started welding holes I would no longer be using.



I then started working on mounting my steering column. I cut out a plate to weld to the firewall.



Dad cut a 2" hole in it.



I was trying to figure out how to mount it. I went to Home Depot thinking I could find a pipe the column could fit into. I grabbed a 1 3/4 in. hole saw because the is the diameter of the column, and walked around the store. I came across 1 1/2 in. conduit that the hole saw fit into. I bought it and cut it in half.



I bolted the column up where it needed to be and slid the conduit over the column. It's a pretty tight fit. I then welded it in place. You can also see where dad welded a piece of metal on the support that goes down to the frame.





Guess what? That brings us up to where I am currently at on this project. This week has been all about the firewall for me. Yesterday I got most of my holes

I had a small piece to weld on the passenger support.


I took the bracket off where the original gas pedal was and filled in the holes.





The previous owner had cut this hole out to install a Chevy S-10 windshield wiper motor. I'm going to be installing an electric wiper kit so this needed to be fixed.



I used a scrap section of the quarter panel since it was curved. I still had to do some bending and cut it to size. I then welded it on the inside.





So today I used an electric grinder to grind all my welds. I then got my regular grinder out knocked off most of the paint.



I got the body putty on and sanded the first coat. This is the second coat and where I ended my day. This will be getting sanded down and hopefully primered tomorrow.



My dad has been working on the inner fender pieces and making a new hood brace. The fender pieces needed to be sand blasted and one needed some welding.





Hood brace







On a side note, I'm really not liking my dad's bass boat too much. I sits about 3 feet in front of my car and I have hit my hip on that plastic piece above the propeller about a half dozen times now. One of these days I'll remember it's there.







53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
11-30-17 08:25 PM - Post#2716476    
    In response to postalcop

Sanded down the second coat of putty and got the firewall primered today. Also sandblasted a few more pieces of the inner fenders. I'm really happy with how the firewall turned out.





This piece wasn't in too bad of shape.






This is the primer I use for bare metal.



Not sure if I will be working on it this weekend. I should at least get to it one day nest week.



53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
postalcop 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 129
postalcop
Loc: MO
Reg: 06-01-12
12-10-17 07:54 PM - Post#2717517    
    In response to postalcop

I got to work on her a little on Wednesday and this is what I got done. I sanded the primer with some 220 paper so my grinder marks wouldn't show up after painting. I was going to re-primer it but dad is starting to talk me into adding Vintage Air to it. A mechanic we know actually said we should add it since we have it torn down this far. So I stopped working on the firewall until I figure out what I want to do. I was originally against it because of the cost, however, if I don't do any engine mods, I could put that money toward the AC unit. If I go AC then I either need to weld up my vent and blower motor holes or just bolt some covers over them. Decisions, decisions.



Thursday I went back to the shop and decided to finally take the doors off. I'm really at the point I need a motor before doing anymore work in the engine area. So off the doors come.



I got pretty lucky as there is only surface rust on the bottoms. After taking the windows out of both doors, I managed to take a wire brush to one of them.





More pictures to come this week.

53 Chevy 210
350 engine / 350 trans
3.42 chevy s-10 rear axle


 
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