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 Page 3 of 4 « First<1234
Username Post: Rebuild a Chevy 350 or buy a crate engine?        (Topic#325239)
LUVmachine 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1453

Age: 36
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 10-02-14
03-01-16 06:50 AM - Post#2612403    
    In response to Chevy 4 Life

I don't care to try to build show quality stuff I like to drive my junk and have fun. There isn't much I won't try at home. I have done everything from paint and body work to assembly of a few engines. I have probably screwed up and burned more money than most but I have learned a lot. I still have a lot to learn but and sometimes the hard way that cost me the most money have been the best lessons learned. Not that I like to throw money away or waste my time.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 




grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17112
grumpyvette
Age: 69
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
03-02-16 05:09 AM - Post#2612572    
    In response to LUVmachine

you should find this series of articles where they take a basic 350 and build it in stages useful


http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/GM%20Go od...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3502.ht...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3503.ht...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3504.ht...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3505.ht...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3506.ht...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3507.ht...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3508.ht...

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 03-02-16 05:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Ray P W 
Contributor
Posts: 342

Reg: 09-30-15
03-02-16 07:02 AM - Post#2612594    
    In response to grumpyvette

Grumpy,

I have read that series of articles and found it very interesting. However, for building an engine for a daily or weekend driver this is what makes me question all of those modifications:

"On the plus side, above 4,000 rpm the porting had a chance to strut its stuff. While peak horsepower jumped slightly to a best of 384 hp at 5,700, the interesting info was that the entire torque curve above 4,000 averaged an increase of over 20 lb-ft at 3,600. From this test, you can imagine this motor would really pull between 4,000 and 6,000 rpm."

My question to you is how useful is an engine that works best in such a high RPM range on the street considering the lower RPM torque that is lost?

Thanks!

Ray W



 
scrambldcj8 
Senior Member
Posts: 2293

Loc: MA
Reg: 04-06-03
03-02-16 12:33 PM - Post#2612650    
    In response to Ray P W

That's why I just love 383/406's...... just can't beat the roll-on....low-end Tq. Getting/using Tq in the higher rpm's is one thing....but sometimes NOT without getting some unwanted attention. ...the best I could do for the blue wig-wags in the rear view...LOL

When building or rebuilding a 350sbc......especially for the street, to me personally, it really makes no sense to NOT put in a 3.75 crank (with the minor supporting mods of course).



 
LUVmachine 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1453

Age: 36
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 10-02-14
03-02-16 03:59 PM - Post#2612692    
    In response to scrambldcj8

  • Quote:

My question to you is how useful is an engine that works best in such a high RPM range on the street considering the lower RPM torque that is lost?



My take on this would be rear gears. 3.73-4.11 then to make it Street friendly throw in an overdrive transmission. Or stay off the highway.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17112
grumpyvette
Age: 69
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
03-02-16 06:29 PM - Post#2612729    
    In response to Ray P W

  • Ray P W Said:
Grumpy,

I have read that series of articles and found it very interesting. However, for building an engine for a daily or weekend driver this is what makes me question all of those modifications:

"On the plus side, above 4,000 rpm the porting had a chance to strut its stuff. While peak horsepower jumped slightly to a best of 384 hp at 5,700, the interesting info was that the entire torque curve above 4,000 averaged an increase of over 20 lb-ft at 3,600. From this test, you can imagine this motor would really pull between 4,000 and 6,000 rpm."

My question to you is how useful is an engine that works best in such a high RPM range on the street considering the lower RPM torque that is lost?

Thanks!

Ray W


EVERY CHOICE YOU MAKE IS A COMPROMISE IN SOME AREA,
But it helps if you step back and have a good grasp on perspective,
what do I mean by that?
if we drop back to step one in the build up,
the original power curve was far lower,
yet that stock replacement engine is considered fully adequate

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/GM%20Go od...


the 1984 corvette was known for having great torque, look at how pathetic its stock engine is!
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/1984-corvette3.htm

Id also point out that the cars drive train gearing and converter stall have a great deal to do with how a car moves efficiently

heres a dyno of the basic stock 260 hp crate 350 engine they started with


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

Id also point out that it takes UNDER 50 hp to maintain 60 mph in a full size car...



IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 03-03-16 03:36 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Chevy 4 Life 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1393

Reg: 03-14-14
03-03-16 07:41 AM - Post#2612820    
    In response to grumpyvette

Grumpy and Luv r right on the money. It took me alot of headaches and money building MIS match parts that I thought would work well. Best thing I did was go with 700r4 and 3.70s. This go around I'm doing a balanced combo with more TQ then HP and better Street manners. Over carbed and head motors along with single planes are good for HP #s but make no sense for performance Street that will spend most of its time in the lower RPM range. Guys above know a hell of lot more then me just my opinion



 
Ray P W 
Contributor
Posts: 342

Reg: 09-30-15
03-03-16 08:41 AM - Post#2612833    
    In response to Chevy 4 Life

"Over carbed and head motors along with single planes are good for HP #s but make no sense for performance Street that will spend most of its time in the lower RPM range. Guys above know a hell of lot more then me just my opinion"

Chevy 4 life,

I have seen hot rods put to 2 different uses. One is for shows and cruising organized events around a city block, never getting out of 1st gear. To those guys actual performance and street manners are irrelevant. Their goals are a very rough ("nasty") idle and an engine that has an appearance of what my wife calls a "Wedding cake" (big scoop piled on top of giant dual carbs piled on top of a blower or a tunnel ram intake.

The other use is for actual driving. Those guys combine parts that will actually work in harmony in the street/road environment, get decent fuel economy and not overheat. I saw an example of the latter last summer in Northern California where I live. A local guy organized a street rod "reliability run". He laid out a route of rural mountain roads about 150 miles long. A wide variety of street rods showed up including a "speedster" based on a Model T Ford chassis with a rarer than rare Roof overhead valve conversion. Every one finished without incident and a great time was had by all. The "wedding cake" and "nasty" specimens would have probably overheated or otherwise malfunctioned within the first 5 miles.

Ray W



 
Chevy 4 Life 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1393

Reg: 03-14-14
03-03-16 10:06 AM - Post#2612844    
    In response to Ray P W

LMAO, and so true bud. I saw alot of this when I was stationed in New Orleans. Guys would enter the cruising the coast, and boy did their high dollar builds and motors sound bad azz. Until they went further then 50 miles and the majority had some form of break down, and then they would cry to me " I just dont know what happended "



 
LUVmachine 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1453

Age: 36
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 10-02-14
03-03-16 12:22 PM - Post#2612872    
    In response to Chevy 4 Life

Ray, what part of California are you in?

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
Ray P W 
Contributor
Posts: 342

Reg: 09-30-15
03-03-16 03:07 PM - Post#2612900    
    In response to LUVmachine

"Ray, what part of California are you in?"

Hi Gabe,

I'm in the Sonoma County "Wine Country", northeast of San Francisco.

Ray W



 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17112
grumpyvette
Age: 69
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
03-03-16 03:59 PM - Post#2612911    
    In response to Ray P W

heres two well thought through engine builds, and several related links
they will take a while to read through the links and sub-links
but
if you take the time and effort to read all the LINKS and SUB LINKS YOULL LEARN A GOOD DEAL

BUILD THREADS

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...


USEFUL RELATED LINKED INFO

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...



IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 03-03-16 04:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Chevy 4 Life 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1393

Reg: 03-14-14
03-04-16 06:07 AM - Post#2612986    
    In response to grumpyvette

Alot of reading Grumpy, but plenty of good info. My engine builder and I were just talking a few days ago about the prep and care of cleaning up the edges and painting the engine. Thanks again for the info



 
Droff 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 42

Age: 54
Loc: Choctaw, OK
Reg: 05-28-15
03-24-16 05:46 AM - Post#2617425    
    In response to Chevy 4 Life

There are many folks on here giving me a lot of info and very helpful direction, which is all very much appreciated. Other areas of life were happening and I didn't realize more posts were being added.

I've jumped around a bit trying to decide a path forward, considered a couple other cars to work with as well as different approaches with my Monte Carlo. A 383 sounds like the route I’d like to take at some point but trying to keep costs in line and get a decent drive train may not allow it right now.
I currently plan on running my 350 transmission with the highway gears in the rear. If I can find a decent price on a 4-spd or 5-spd manual transmission, I’d like to go that route, keeping the same rear end – unless I run across a very good deal on 3 series carrier.

More than one person has suggested to stay away from previous builds with unknown parts or builders with unknown skills. That being said, I ran across this engine locally;
"Motor was professionally built for my 63 impala. It is a 350 block, bored to 355 ci. Keith Black pistons, comp cam and lifters (262 duration with 454 lift). melling oil pump, h beam rods, edelbrock intake. everything new. heads were reworked and given a 3 angle valve job. 1.5 rockers. motor was installed, broke in to hydraulic lifter specs. about 200 miles on the motor. builder figured about 325 hp, and I figure that is real close. I'm just needing more power, so it is being swapped. carb hat, chrome valve covers, headers. I will throw it all in. I also have a brand new 600 cfm holley carb if interested."

I have not talked to the man yet so I have no other info on it, I emailed him with a few more questions on the cam, intake and heads. The ad states it's a crate engine and he has around $2800 in it, wanting $1200 plus another $150 for the carb. That’s a big $$ drop off from what he has in it, I’m unsure why a person would have a crate engine built, unless he just picked up a short block. If there is no issue with the engine, those costs seem reasonable and not out of line if going this route. From the info I’ve gotten, I don’t see being able to get to a 383 for that cost, even bolt-ons for my current 350 would pretty much get me there.
Although it is running, I don’t know what my current 350 has as far as internals and if it can handle some bolt-on upgrades for more horsepower. I can pull it out now and get it going toward a 383 build in the future while the Monte stays driveable. I don’t have an engine builder I’ve used so I don’t have a reference to work from, for cost or for trust at this point.

So, with that, move on from the 355 above or give it some consideration?
Thanks again for the help guys.



 
Shepherd 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1049

Loc: Lake George, NY
Reg: 11-11-15
03-24-16 05:59 AM - Post#2617427    
    In response to Droff

I would ask for some build receipts and maybe pull off the pan off and look at a few bearings, definitely a cheap price.



 
Chevy 4 Life 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1393

Reg: 03-14-14
03-27-16 04:39 PM - Post#2618163    
    In response to Shepherd

I know that it can be scary, but for the right price used parts and engines can be a good deal, just make sure and look at the usual places for ware and damage, as stated above. Good luck bud



 
Droff 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 42

Age: 54
Loc: Choctaw, OK
Reg: 05-28-15
03-28-16 05:44 AM - Post#2618250    
    In response to Chevy 4 Life

Thanks for the engine caveats.

I'm still looking over engine info but also looking at transmissions, I want to convert to a manual 4 or 5 speed and I'm running into some confusion on that as well.
I'm not going to be racing or getting into anything anymore serious than tire smoking and some quick starts (if I can), so I don't think that I need go with anything bullet-proof. I'm looking at the used market and have seen Muncie's, Saginaw's, a few T-5's and a T-10.
I'm not sure on what gear ratios would be better than another for rear end gears of 2.73, which won't get changed anytime soon.
Most of the Muncie's I've seen are around 2.20 for first gear, and the Saginaw can be from around that up to 3.50.
I think I can go with a 4 speed and no OD, due to the rear end gearing but not completely positive. Looking for some input into the transmission gear ratios and which would be better suited for my driving.



 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
04-29-16 01:36 PM - Post#2625037    
    In response to Droff

Thought i would throw this out! With all the machining costs, probably 750-1000 if its done right, here's a idea. Summit has remanufactured blocks for about 700 bux. Have your heads reworked, buy a rotating assembly and build a mild 383 stroker for about the same as a 350 would cost. You are not wanting a bad censored street machine just a driver. I bet you could do it for the price of those crate motors and have done it yourself and learned a lot on the way.

==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
04-29-16 02:16 PM - Post#2625052    
    In response to busterrm

Thought i would throw this out! With all the machining costs, probably 750-1000 if its done right, here's a idea. Summit has remanufactured blocks for about 700 bux. Have your heads reworked, buy a rotating assembly and build a mild 383 stroker for about the same as a 350 would cost. You are not wanting a bad street machine just a driver. I bet you could do it for the price of those crate motors and have done it yourself and learned a lot on the way.
BLOCK 700 W/shipping 825
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/o v...
ROTATING ASSEMBLY 730 W/shipping 800
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-92302/ove r...
A gasket set 75 bux, rework your heads 200 bux, balance the rotating assembly 200 bux. There will be misc costs along the way. But, the thing I love is it is done by your own hand and some pride involved too.


==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
04-29-16 02:46 PM - Post#2625058    
    In response to grumpyvette

  • grumpyvette Said:
That T Bucket build is a buddy of mine. That little T Bucket is one bad momma jamma. I remember when I first rode in it, even before he tuned it and got it spot on. I nearly peed myself that thing has so much torque.


==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
04-29-16 03:07 PM - Post#2625061    
    In response to busterrm

  • busterrm Said:
Thought i would throw this out! With all the machining costs, probably 750-1000 if its done right, here's a idea. Summit has remanufactured blocks for about 700 bux. Have your heads reworked, buy a rotating assembly and build a mild 383 stroker for about the same as a 350 would cost. You are not wanting a bad street machine just a driver. I bet you could do it for the price of those crate motors and have done it yourself and learned a lot on the way.
BLOCK 700 W/shipping 825
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/o v...
ROTATING ASSEMBLY 730 W/shipping 800
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-92302/ove r...
A gasket set 75 bux, rework your heads 200 bux, balance the rotating assembly 200 bux. There will be misc costs along the way. But, the thing I love is it is done by your own hand and some pride involved too.


Once you get it built sell the disassemble engine and the old engine in the car to recoop some cost.


==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
04-29-16 03:10 PM - Post#2625062    
    In response to busterrm

  • busterrm Said:
  • busterrm Said:
Thought i would throw this out! With all the machining costs, probably 750-1000 if its done right, here's a idea. Summit has remanufactured blocks for about 700 bux. Have your heads reworked, buy a rotating assembly and build a mild 383 stroker for about the same as a 350 would cost. You are not wanting a bad street machine just a driver. I bet you could do it for the price of those crate motors and have done it yourself and learned a lot on the way.
BLOCK 700 W/shipping 825
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/o v...
ROTATING ASSEMBLY 730 W/shipping 800
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-92302/ove r...
A gasket set 75 bux, rework your heads 200 bux, balance the rotating assembly 200 bux. There will be misc costs along the way. But, the thing I love is it is done by your own hand and some pride involved too.


Once you get it built sell the disassemble engine and the old engine in the car to recoop some cost.


good intake and carb bout anther 4-500 bux and have solid motor


==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
Raven18940 
Member
Posts: 450

Reg: 09-22-04
04-30-16 06:45 AM - Post#2625199    
    In response to busterrm

  • busterrm Said:
  • busterrm Said:
  • busterrm Said:
Thought i would throw this out! With all the machining costs, probably 750-1000 if its done right, here's a idea. Summit has remanufactured blocks for about 700 bux. Have your heads reworked, buy a rotating assembly and build a mild 383 stroker for about the same as a 350 would cost. You are not wanting a bad street machine just a driver. I bet you could do it for the price of those crate motors and have done it yourself and learned a lot on the way.
BLOCK 700 W/shipping 825
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/o v...
ROTATING ASSEMBLY 730 W/shipping 800
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-92302/ove r...
A gasket set 75 bux, rework your heads 200 bux, balance the rotating assembly 200 bux. There will be misc costs along the way. But, the thing I love is it is done by your own hand and some pride involved too.


Once you get it built sell the disassemble engine and the old engine in the car to recoop some cost.


good intake and carb bout anther 4-500 bux and have solid motor


You guys are forgetting a lot more things you need to put together an engine from a bare block. Just a roller cam and lifters is going to be about $500. You'll need a balancer too, an oil pan to clear the 3.75" stroke, maybe a small base circle cam. And if you don't have at least stock Vortec heads to bolt on, you'll need a set of cylinder heads too. I really think you'll be hard pressed to get such a motor together for less than $3K.

Which isn't say don't ever do this, but if you can snag a used 350 vortec for $500 it's 90% of a 383 for a lot less.



 
RustyStuff 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 46

Reg: 04-22-16
04-30-16 10:32 AM - Post#2625251    
    In response to Raven18940

The deals seem to be out there if you want to build a engine out of used parts.
I found a almost fresh, previously rebuilt 4 bolt 350 for $200, Put in new bearings, forged rods and flat top hyperutetic pistons, a new flat tappet cam in/roller timing chain and then found a set of rebuilt 462 double hump heads for $100. With a new internals, new holley carb and high rise DP intake and full tube headers. I'll be around $1200 all in including specialty tools I bought to install the cam and what not.

It's been a great learning experience and I now know my engine inside and out.



 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
05-01-16 12:21 AM - Post#2625405    
    In response to Raven18940

  • Raven18940 Said:
  • busterrm Said:
  • busterrm Said:
  • busterrm Said:
Thought i would throw this out! With all the machining costs, probably 750-1000 if its done right, here's a idea. Summit has remanufactured blocks for about 700 bux. Have your heads reworked, buy a rotating assembly and build a mild 383 stroker for about the same as a 350 would cost. You are not wanting a bad street machine just a driver. I bet you could do it for the price of those crate motors and have done it yourself and learned a lot on the way.
BLOCK 700 W/shipping 825
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/o v...
ROTATING ASSEMBLY 730 W/shipping 800
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-92302/ove r...
A gasket set 75 bux, rework your heads 200 bux, balance the rotating assembly 200 bux. There will be misc costs along the way. But, the thing I love is it is done by your own hand and some pride involved too.


Once you get it built sell the disassemble engine and the old engine in the car to recoop some cost.


good intake and carb bout anther 4-500 bux and have solid motor


You guys are forgetting a lot more things you need to put together an engine from a bare block. Just a roller cam and lifters is going to be about $500. You'll need a balancer too, an oil pan to clear the 3.75" stroke, maybe a small base circle cam. And if you don't have at least stock Vortec heads to bolt on, you'll need a set of cylinder heads too. I really think you'll be hard pressed to get such a motor together for less than $3K.

Which isn't say don't ever do this, but if you can snag a used 350 vortec for $500 it's 90% of a 383 for a lot less.

I agree, mild roller with less than .500 lift you could use OEM style roller lifters that aren't near as expensive, there are several things not mentioned to complete the build, not real expensive items. You could put a good solid flat tappet cam in it for a decent price and be pretty good too.


==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
05-01-16 12:26 AM - Post#2625406    
    In response to busterrm

  • busterrm Said:
  • Raven18940 Said:
  • busterrm Said:
  • busterrm Said:
  • busterrm Said:
Thought i would throw this out! With all the machining costs, probably 750-1000 if its done right, here's a idea. Summit has remanufactured blocks for about 700 bux. Have your heads reworked, buy a rotating assembly and build a mild 383 stroker for about the same as a 350 would cost. You are not wanting a bad street machine just a driver. I bet you could do it for the price of those crate motors and have done it yourself and learned a lot on the way.
BLOCK 700 W/shipping 825
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/o v...
ROTATING ASSEMBLY 730 W/shipping 800
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-92302/ove r...
A gasket set 75 bux, rework your heads 200 bux, balance the rotating assembly 200 bux. There will be misc costs along the way. But, the thing I love is it is done by your own hand and some pride involved too.


Once you get it built sell the disassemble engine and the old engine in the car to recoop some cost.


good intake and carb bout anther 4-500 bux and have solid motor


You guys are forgetting a lot more things you need to put together an engine from a bare block. Just a roller cam and lifters is going to be about $500. You'll need a balancer too, an oil pan to clear the 3.75" stroke, maybe a small base circle cam. And if you don't have at least stock Vortec heads to bolt on, you'll need a set of cylinder heads too. I really think you'll be hard pressed to get such a motor together for less than $3K.

Which isn't say don't ever do this, but if you can snag a used 350 vortec for $500 it's 90% of a 383 for a lot less.

I agree, mild roller with less than .500 lift you could use OEM style roller lifters that aren't near as expensive, there are several things not mentioned to complete the build, not real expensive items. You could put a good solid flat tappet cam in it for a decent price and be pretty good too.


He's not looking for a wild street machine here read the beginning of the thread, If he watches he can get balancer with the rotating assembly, have his stock heads reworked and still have a good little motor for his car.


==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
busterrm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1215
busterrm
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-30-10
05-01-16 12:49 AM - Post#2625407    
    In response to busterrm

Heck,I built a 372, 4bolt 350 bored 40, pistons, rods, flat tappet cam, crank (3.625 stroke), inexpensive alum heads,air gap intake, carb,dizzy. I had it in the car, running for about 2250, on a budget just search the internet for deals of what you want and shop smart and watch for the good deals everyday. I watched for 2 months for the crank for the engine above, and got a good one(ohio crank) on racingjunk.com for 150 bux.I used 327 rebuilder pistons (comp ht 1.65), had them shaved .012 off each piston top. that gave me 9 1/2 thousands deck clearance and I used stock 400 rods and it worked great. If you hurry gonna have problems, JMHO

==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!

1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2008 Harley Davidson XL1200 Sportster


 
Droff 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 42

Age: 54
Loc: Choctaw, OK
Reg: 05-28-15
09-15-16 09:27 AM - Post#2651491    
    In response to Raven18940

It’s been a while since I’ve posted on this but things are still slowly moving along. I picked up another Monte Carlo, a ’71 with a whole lot better body, but with pretty much the same drivetrain, a 350, 4 barrel with a 350 tranny.
I’m still working on an engine decision, going to check into machine shop costs for getting a 350 block ready for a 383 kit and that will help on a direction. I think a 383 is how I would like to go, but $$$ is the main factor, so that may wait a bit.

Until then, my other consideration is using one of the 350’s I already have and just change out some bolt-ons, with a cam swap as well. I know the 350 in the ’70 runs and the 350 in the ’71 at least starts, not sure on reliability yet. It’s the original 270hp 350 in the ’71.
Both cars are non-posi, 2.73 gears with 15” tires.
I want a street car, no strip and driven frequently. Needs to run on pump gas.
If just upgrading one of my current 350’s, the thoughts were;
- Vortec heads (Found a rebuilt pair for $400)
- Vortec intake (Edelbrock Performer RPM, around $220 new)
- Carb (Holley as a most likely choice, not sure on size tho…600-750 cfm range)
- Cam, keep it under .500 lift, just not sure on specs other than lean toward an RV style cam
- Maybe headers
I’m working under the assumption that what I buy now for a 350, I can swap over to a 383 if I want to use those parts. Wrong assumption?
For the 350...
Any input on a carb size?
Any other costs to consider other than a set of gaskets?

I appreciate all the info and advice that’s been given on this topic.
I don’t work fast but I’m working on it….




 
LUVmachine 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1453

Age: 36
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 10-02-14
09-15-16 11:07 AM - Post#2651507    
    In response to Droff

If you are going to use a cam in the .500 lift range I would double check the clearance on those vortec heads. I would seriously consider some shorter gears and and stall converter or else its probably going to be a dog under 3000 rpm where a street car with tall gears is going to be cruising.

71 Chevelle BBC powered
71 C-10 454 with weiand 177 (SOLD)
72 406 sbc powered Chevy LUV sleeper (SOLD)
2010 GMC Sierra crew cab 4X4
http://s626.photobucket.com/user/GJohnson81/libra r...


 
Droff 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 42

Age: 54
Loc: Choctaw, OK
Reg: 05-28-15
09-15-16 04:08 PM - Post#2651564    
    In response to LUVmachine

I would guess I'd be "around" .450 for cam lift based on what I've been reading. I won't be pushing the clearance limits on the vortecs, but I do think .500 is at the edge.

As far as gears, my future plan is to put a posi carrier in the car with 3.42 gears, maybe 3.55's. I can get the parts together dollar wise, but I'll need to pay for installation, so that's down the road.



 




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