7echo
Contributor
Posts: 211
Loc: south georgia
Reg: 02-07-15
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03-18-15 06:56 PM - Post#2531895
So I am going through the truck trying to correct issues and evaluate the over all condition.
Next up is steering.
The steering is such that the truck does not respond quickly, as if it is soft. I have read that the gear box is adjustable, though I am not sure I want to tackle that based on what I read. But, how do I determine if it is the gearbox or another suspension component? With 186,000 miles I assume there is a bit of play in more than one component. How do I check the suspension parts for wear?
As always, comments and advice are appreciated.
'93 1500 Silverado
Single cab, short bed, 305, auto, 2WD |
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 CowboyTrukr
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4899
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
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03-18-15 07:48 PM - Post#2531912
In response to 7echo
Start with a helper in the cab. Have them slowly rotate the steering wheel and watch the shaft with a hand on one tire. Note how far the shaft turns before the tire moves. Also, do a little side to side rotation while you watch the arm on the box. Next, get it up on jack stands and check top/bottom play in each wheel. Also side to side. Top/bottom play is usually ball joints. Side to side is likely tie rods.
That's a start.
Greg
Greg
‘21 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 - ‘17 Journey
‘01 2500HD 8.1/Allison 1000 Xcab/LB SOLD
“Bad men need nothing more to compass their ends, than that good men should look on and do nothing.” - John Stewart Mill |
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bowtie44s
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4290
Age: 41
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
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03-19-15 09:19 AM - Post#2532030
In response to CowboyTrukr
For the steering box, do like Greg said, but watch the input shaft and pitman shaft. Remember, it's geared down, so just watch for the pitman shaft to barely move. On jack stands, grab a wheel and work it side to side and find the play. Watch the tie rod ends, pitman arm, and idler arm. More than likely, that's your problem.
Jeff
'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap |
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7echo
Contributor
Posts: 211
Loc: south georgia
Reg: 02-07-15
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03-22-15 05:27 AM - Post#2532839
In response to bowtie44s
Following y'alls suggestions on checking the steering it looks like there is a lot of play in most components. Maybe all this stuff is original. 186,000 miles original.
So, what can be done in a driveway without air tools? I can get a puller from work or borrow one if needed.
The goal is to make this our back up vehicle and for use when we need to haul something. I am not lifting it, camming it, chipping it, or any other performance mods. Any brands of parts to avoid? Trying to do this as affordable as possible, but not cheap.
Also, will need some shocks as well. Maybe I will start a thread on suspension after I get the steering sorted.
'93 1500 Silverado
Single cab, short bed, 305, auto, 2WD |
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 someotherguy
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29799
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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03-22-15 06:08 AM - Post#2532845
In response to 7echo
So, what can be done in a driveway without air tools?
Pretty much all of it.
Completely stripped front suspension of 2 trucks for swapping (one lowered and had fresh bushings, one stock) 100% with hand tools. The bushings I had installed about 1K miles earlier, also using only hand tools. A bench vise and U-joint press helped a great deal with that. Upper ball joints were removed by drilling out the rivets on a drill press; lowers are press-fit so I borrowed a ball joint press tool.
Richard
| 06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8 / 93 C3500 dually |
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bowtie44s
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4290
Age: 41
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
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03-22-15 06:14 AM - Post#2532848
In response to 7echo
Air tools is not a necessity, but they sure make it faster and easier. You will need a pitman arm puller and a pickle fork may come in handy. The tie rod ends and pitman arm are basically ball joints and you can get them with a hammer on the outside of the hole or with a pickle fork. Auto Zone will loan you most of the tools.
I know you want to go cheap, but if you get parts house brands like Duralast or Parts Master, you will be doing the job again in 6 months. If you want to do the job once, get Moog. Rock Auto is the cheapest place I've found.
Jeff
'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap |
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bowtie44s
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4290
Age: 41
Loc: wv
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03-22-15 06:22 AM - Post#2532849
In response to someotherguy
lowers are press-fit so I borrowed a ball joint press tool.
On forged control arms. They are riveted/bolted on stamped control arms.
Jeff
'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap |
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454cid
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3232
Age: 51
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
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03-22-15 06:36 AM - Post#2532853
In response to bowtie44s
lowers are press-fit so I borrowed a ball joint press tool.
On forged control arms. They are riveted/bolted on stamped control arms.
Richard is talking 2wd, and I think those are press fit..... the vans at work are.
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someotherguy
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29799
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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03-22-15 06:53 AM - Post#2532859
In response to bowtie44s
lowers are press-fit so I borrowed a ball joint press tool.
On forged control arms. They are riveted/bolted on stamped control arms.
OP didn't say 4WD or 2WD; on 2WD they're all press fit lowers, all stamped lower arms - even 1 tons.
Richard
| 06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8 / 93 C3500 dually |
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7echo
Contributor
Posts: 211
Loc: south georgia
Reg: 02-07-15
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03-22-15 07:38 AM - Post#2532874
In response to someotherguy
lowers are press-fit so I borrowed a ball joint press tool.
On forged control arms. They are riveted/bolted on stamped control arms.
OP didn't say 4WD or 2WD; on 2WD they're all press fit lowers, all stamped lower arms - even 1 tons.
Richard
Sorry guys, I know better than to not have the information available. I updated the signature to show that I have 2WD.
So, idler arm(should i count on doing the bracket assembly?), pitman arm, tie rod ends and adjusting links, and center link should cover the steering?
'93 1500 Silverado
Single cab, short bed, 305, auto, 2WD |
Edited by 7echo on 03-22-15 07:41 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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bowtie44s
Valued Contributor
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03-22-15 08:10 AM - Post#2532880
In response to 7echo
Not sure what you mean by bracket assembly. You only need the moving parts. Hit the tie rod and adjusters with some Kroil (or your favorite penetrating oil) and a wire brush. If they turn, you don't need to replace them. Take good measurements before you start. You will need an alignment when you're done, but you want to get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop. Don't measure or count threads, the new ones can be different, measure center to center.
Jeff
'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap |
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someotherguy
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29799
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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03-22-15 08:21 AM - Post#2532883
In response to 7echo
I've always replaced the entire idler arm assembly. The bracket has a moving joint/bearing that can wear just like any other moving part, so I'd just get the idler arm as an assembly including the bracket and be done with it. Be sure to get the Moog Problem Solver unit as the others don't last as long.
The center link on these trucks has no moving parts so it's considered a non-wear item. About the only way it can wear is if the holes where the other components mount get egged out, but that is pretty much limited to if those fasteners weren't tightened properly. Of course the center link can become damaged in a crash or what have you, but usually they simply don't wear. If it gives you any peace of mind a quality Moog unit is only about $35, but I personally would not bother unless it had obvious damage.
On the tie rods, I went ahead and purchased new adjuster sleeves too because they're inexpensive - and it also allowed me to easily build the inner/outer tie rod assemblies to match the length of the old ones, so that things were closer to original for its trip to the alignment shop.
Richard
| 06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8 / 93 C3500 dually |
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454cid
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3232
Age: 51
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
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03-22-15 10:47 AM - Post#2532927
In response to bowtie44s
Don't measure or count threads, the new ones can be different, measure center to center.
I found that out the hard way. I was so careful, and it was still way off. Later, as I was thinking about it, I realized that there was no guarantee that two different companies would thread parts the same way.
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454cid
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3232
Age: 51
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
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03-22-15 10:50 AM - Post#2532928
In response to someotherguy
On the tie rods, I went ahead and purchased new adjuster sleeves too because they're inexpensive - and it also allowed me to easily build the inner/outer tie rod assemblies to match the length of the old ones, so that things were closer to original for its trip to the alignment shop.
Richard
That, and up north the parts get rusty. Unrusty parts are much nicer to work with.
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Vaughn
Member #455 "15th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 18770
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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03-22-15 02:50 PM - Post#2532985
In response to 454cid
For 2wd trucks:
All 4 tie rod ends, adjuster sleeve if you want, idler and Pitman arm, upper and lower ball joint, and upper and lower A-arm bushings (you can have a shop press these in).
You may need pickle forks or other tools to pop loose ball joints and tie rod ends. You may need a ball joint press (large C-clamp kind of tool). You will need someone with an actual hydraulic press to get bushings replaced on the A-arms. Harbor Freight has the above tools to do this, and they aren't very expensive.
You can also replace the rag joint on the steering gear. Don't try to adjust anything on the power steering gear unless you have a manual (you shouldn't really need to adjust ANYTHING on the steering gear, leave it alone if at all possible).
You can make sure the steering gear is bolted securely to the frame. If not tight, it can can cause strange steering problems. IF the frame is cracked at that point, have it welded back up.
Buy your replacement parts as a rebuild kit for a front end, you will save $30-$40 over buying them separately. Use something like p-s-t.com (their website is difficult to use, but they are cheap), or Ebay probably has something similar (Ebay will questionable manufacturers usually).
You can select what manufacturer your suspension parts come from at p-s-t.com, I personally would use Moog. Their kits sometimes come without inner tie rod ends, make sure they put them in there.
They offer their bushings in rubber, polyurethane, or poly-graphite. Unless you plan to street race the truck, use rubber. It is quieter and cheaper than urethane bushings, which have a tendency to squeak no matter what they do (even with the graphite).
Replacing everything will tighten the front up considerably, and it may also reduce some squeaks in the front end.
Make sure you have the truck aligned after replacing everything, so your tires will last more than 100 miles. A properly aligned truck with all new parts will make tires last MUCH, MUCH longer than a truck with a worn out front end.
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7echo
Contributor
Posts: 211
Loc: south georgia
Reg: 02-07-15
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03-22-15 06:07 PM - Post#2533064
In response to Vaughn
Thanks for the details.
I was planning to do just the steering at this point. How much more hassle to do the A arms later? I assume it will mean another alignment at the least?
Are shocks an easy DIY on this truck?
'93 1500 Silverado
Single cab, short bed, 305, auto, 2WD |
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bowtie44s
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4290
Age: 41
Loc: wv
Reg: 08-29-12
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03-22-15 07:37 PM - Post#2533105
In response to 7echo
Shocks are very easy assuming the bolts don't need cut off and will not need an alignment. Check all the stuff Chevytech listed. They will definitely affect steering. You may look into new control arms with bushings and ball joints already installed. Not sure what brands you can get them with, but I only use Moog. I've had too much bad luck with others and good luck with Moog.
Jeff
'88 Chevy K3500, aluminum head roller cam 511in³ stroker 10.5:1 compression, 96 NV 4500, 94-98 grille, 305/70-16 (33x12) BF Goodrich KM2s, 91 cluster swap |
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someotherguy
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29799
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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03-23-15 05:44 AM - Post#2533177
In response to bowtie44s
Shocks are very easy assuming the bolts don't need cut off
Speaking of, an excellent tip to use long before you start trying to remove shocks is to squirt penetrating oil (I love PB Blaster) onto the threads from the top side of them. So in other words, through the coil springs down onto the upper end of the bolts where they poke through the lower control arm. The square weld nuts they go into are only tacked to the arm; if there's enough rust to make the bolts difficult to remove, you can easily snap the welds and end up with a spinning bolt.
Richard
| 06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8 / 93 C3500 dually |
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