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Username Post: Bypass hose        (Topic#320429)
Big T 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Membe
Posts: 2695
Big T
Loc: Simi Valley CA
Reg: 04-14-06
01-23-15 02:58 PM - Post#2517408    

350HO
[image][/image]

Read a very lengthy post on a different site about what "arrangement" the plumbing should be for the water bypass on a 350HO w/iron vortec heads create motor. Including drilling holes in the thermostat. (not preferred if possible)

Rick L. (and others) had great suggestions to everyone's different questions and suggestions. After 40-50 posts and responses, ....I was lost

So here goes. I have 350HO Deluxe (complete motor less fuel pump) crate, iron Vortec heads, A/C, short pump, standard rotation, belts. After much research, a bypass is required.

W/Pump has three ports. One port input from rad, one port to heater core, both on pass side. The top port...planned on that being for the bypass hose, directly into the threaded hole (which came with a built in restrictor) in the front of the intake maniforld. See photo.

Fittings are in place, however one end of the right angle hose is not connected to anything but will be connected to the intake manifold fitting next to it, as the "bypass".

To complete the overall water "path", there is a port, passenger side front corner of the intake manifold that I planned to use as the second hose going back to the heater.

Under the carb (pass side) is a plugged port. ?

Will this (water pump) set up meet the bypass requirement as well as the heater requirement or should I be doing something different?

Tom

55 4 door BelAir


 

Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27226
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
01-23-15 04:16 PM - Post#2517425    
    In response to Big T

Yes it will.

  • Quote:
Under the carb (pass side) is a plugged port. ?



Not real sure what that is, but it's probably a vacuum port.



 
Big T 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Membe
Posts: 2695
Big T
Loc: Simi Valley CA
Reg: 04-14-06
01-23-15 04:42 PM - Post#2517437    
    In response to Rick_L

Thanks Rick wasn't too sure exactly what that was.

What are your thoughts about the bypass I am thinking about and want to clarify before I move forward with it.

On the other site I mentioned above, there was way too many different "options/suggestions/ques tions/answers/responses" from 30-40+ different guys, I could not see any two alike and nothing jumped out looking like what I want to do to provide the bypass for my 350/iron Vortec.
Thanks
Tom
Tom

Tom

55 4 door BelAir


 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27226
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
01-23-15 05:48 PM - Post#2517455    
    In response to Big T

What you have should be just fine.



 
Big T 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Membe
Posts: 2695
Big T
Loc: Simi Valley CA
Reg: 04-14-06
01-23-15 05:56 PM - Post#2517457    
    In response to Rick_L

Thanks Rick
Appreciated
Tom

Tom

55 4 door BelAir


 
Big T 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Membe
Posts: 2695
Big T
Loc: Simi Valley CA
Reg: 04-14-06
01-23-15 06:01 PM - Post#2517460    
    In response to Rick_L

Rick
Sorry to cycle you.
I missed the first time you said it would work. Just noticed it on the re-read.
Tom

Tom

55 4 door BelAir


 
models916 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4653

Age: 66
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
01-26-15 05:56 AM - Post#2517979    
    In response to Big T

Bypass hose to the intake is for rapid heat to the heater core in cold weather. It is not necessary to use the bypass feature. So don't sweat it. Engine will run just as well with it as without it. Drill the .125 hole in the thermostat for reduction in trapped air in a cold engine. Could go to a smaller hole if you live in Minnesota and drive in the winter.



 
acardon 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10864
acardon
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
01-26-15 07:44 AM - Post#2518000    
    In response to models916

This is a quote from the installation instructions for installing a new 350 Ramjet GM Performance Parts crate engine.
  • Quote:
Water Pump:
The RAMJET 350 engine includes a standard rotation water pump. This is a cast iron, long leg water pump; the same pump that is installed on the GM Performance Parts ZZ4 crate engine. Any small block engine, regardless of year, that uses Vortec heads, will require an external coolant bypass line from the intake manifold to the 5/8" hose nipple on the water pump (passenger’s side). Suggested routing is from the 3/8 NPSF boss on intake manifold to the water pump."




Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (driving)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)


 
raycow 
Honored Member
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raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
01-26-15 10:31 AM - Post#2518045    
    In response to models916

  • models916 Said:
Bypass hose to the intake is for rapid heat to the heater core in cold weather.


Assuming you have a conventionally configured intake manifold and water pump, the bypass hose is connected "across" the heater core. Having the bypass in place will REDUCE the water flow through the heater. The heater can serve as a perfectly adequate bypass by itself as long as the heater control valve is open.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
pheengurs 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 7

Reg: 02-18-08
09-01-17 06:52 PM - Post#2706456    
    In response to raycow

okay in my 64 chevy k10, I've got a 70's 010 casting high nickel sbc block, just turned into a 383 stroker, with gmc 906 casting vortec heads and intake...

I've started it up 3 times and all 3 times the 5/8" coolant line from pass front intake blows right off the heater core end!!!

Heater core is not blocked...

My heater core hoses run from front pass intake 5/8" to 5/8" on heater core
Other line runs from 3/4" off top of water pump to 3/4" on heater core...

because I have vortec heads, and all this conflicting info regarding bypass hoses...I don't have anything else... is my hose blowing off because I don't have a bypass hose?





Edited by pheengurs on 09-09-17 10:28 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
YOUNG57 
Contributor
Posts: 971

Loc: Tennessee
Reg: 12-06-10
09-02-17 01:12 PM - Post#2706511    
    In response to pheengurs

I feel your hose connection is at fault. Even blocked or closed valves do not cause hoses to blow off, the 7 to 16 psi won’t push a hose off unless the connection is loose or lubricated.

Make sure the hose is the correct size for the barb, or vice versa, the mating surfaces are clean and dry and the clamps apply enough pressure.




 
pheengurs 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 7

Reg: 02-18-08
09-09-17 10:40 AM - Post#2707167    
    In response to YOUNG57

it's quite possible... I paid $90 cdn for a set of RPC flexible heater hoses...

I thought for that price I was paying for quality but it does not appear to be the case... at least on the rubber hose fittings and hose clamps viewpoint.

in the case of the heater hose fittings, I did not bother using the clamps they provided. I used my dremel and opened up the fitting covers to accept standard width Trilodon hose clamps ...

anyway, before using these hoses, I used standard hose, and they were clamped on using the same size / type Trilodon clamps, over copper tubing, and never came off nor gave me any problems...

I swapped the copper tubing fittings, for a barbed pex fitting from the hardware store... and that was on the third try, the hose popped off...

This time around, I've added one more hose clamp, and put the thermostat back in to see if this does the trick...



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 26853
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
09-09-17 02:25 PM - Post#2707193    
    In response to pheengurs

Big T, there appear to be TWO ports on the front of your intake manifold. One for the bypass I can understand, but what is the second port for?

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27226
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
09-09-17 03:25 PM - Post#2707200    
    In response to raycow

The second one would normally be for the heater - hot higher pressure source. The other heater hose would go to a port on the suction side of the water pump.

Unless I'm missing the heater hose that's somewhere else, but I don't see it.

That port could also be used for a water temperature sender or switch (but you wouldn't need a hose nipple).



 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 26853
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
09-09-17 06:12 PM - Post#2707208    
    In response to Rick_L

There is another port on the passenger side of the manifold near the front. I assumed that one was for the heater.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27226
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
09-10-17 07:55 AM - Post#2707267    
    In response to raycow

Maybe it was for a temperature sensor or switch.



 
Big T 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Membe
Posts: 2695
Big T
Loc: Simi Valley CA
Reg: 04-14-06
10-19-17 11:16 PM - Post#2711447    
    In response to pheengurs

I'm not the expert by any means. I have a 350HO create with iron Vortec heads and what I am saying below is Based on my motor.

I can't address your heater hose issue specifically but I run one hose from the passenger side water pump to the heater. The other hose runs from the top of the passenger side intake manifold to the heater

The top port on my water pump feeds the bypass hose that goes directly into the face of my GM intake manifold. This intake port shares the same part of the water jacket that is under the thermostat.

As you can read above, the 350 with iron Vortec heads require a external bypass. Usually there is a second smaller hole in passenger side water pump mounting flange. This is for a internal by pass.

My Vortec head does have a corresponding hole leading you to believe this is a functional bypass inlet......it is not. The hole is a dead end hence the need for the external by pass to keep some water circulating until op temp is reached.
Tom

Tom

55 4 door BelAir


 
Big T 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Membe
Posts: 2695
Big T
Loc: Simi Valley CA
Reg: 04-14-06
10-19-17 11:37 PM - Post#2711448    
    In response to raycow

Hi Ray. Sorry to respond so late. Been out of pocket for awhile in the local hospital.

Yea, that picture is misleading. What I failed to do before I took the picture was to hook the by pass hose up to the nipple making it appear that there are two inlets. There is only one.

With regard to the heater hoses. One will hook up from the passenger side of the WP to the heater inlet. The other hose will use the forward hole in he p-side front corner of the intake manifold.
Tom

Tom

55 4 door BelAir


 

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