American Auto Wire
Username Post: 500670 ignition switch        (Topic#305384)
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10050
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
11-29-13 06:23 PM - Post#2403559    

Just got a 500670 ignition switch to replace the current switch in my 55 car. I'm not sure if the current swich is a stock replacement, but it does take a standard GM key.

Since the description of your switch says it's designed to be used with an existing AAW kit, does that mean it must be used with your 500672 cylinder?

Thanks, Mike


1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


 
aawtech 
American Autowire "Site Sponsor"
Posts: 5008

Loc: Bellmawr, NJ
Reg: 09-11-06
11-29-13 07:38 PM - Post#2403574    
    In response to MikeB

  • MikeB Said:
Just got a 500670 ignition switch to replace the current switch in my 55 car. I'm not sure if the current swich is a stock replacement, but it does take a standard GM key.

Since the description of your switch says it's designed to be used with an existing AAW kit, does that mean it must be used with your 500672 cylinder?

Thanks, Mike



Mike, If you have stock harnesses, that switch cannot easily be used at all. The stock harnesses are not circuited the way that switch operates.

If you have a Classic Update, the switch will work fine. It will work fine with our 500672 cylinder, or the original stock one. If you have an older Classic update that was made 7-12 years ago, it may have a different switch connector and switch altogether, as we did change that. In that instance, you'll need to get a 500684 updated switch and connector assembly. Again, the 500672 or a stock cylinder will work with that switch assembly.

Donny




Edited by aawtech on 11-29-13 07:38 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10050
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
11-30-13 09:38 AM - Post#2403700    
    In response to aawtech

The PO installed a RF wiring kit in 1999. I'll confirm, but I think the wiring is like your CU kit, with SOL, IGN, ACC, 12V, and GND.

Problem with the switch is after starting the engine, none of my accessories work until I nudge the key CCW a little. Guess that means there's an issue with the switch making contact with the ACC terminal, right?

Good to see you at SEMA!




1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


 
aawtech 
American Autowire "Site Sponsor"
Posts: 5008

Loc: Bellmawr, NJ
Reg: 09-11-06
11-30-13 01:31 PM - Post#2403757    
    In response to MikeB

  • MikeB Said:
The PO installed a RF wiring kit in 1999. I'll confirm, but I think the wiring is like your CU kit, with SOL, IGN, ACC, 12V, and GND.

Problem with the switch is after starting the engine, none of my accessories work until I nudge the key CCW a little. Guess that means there's an issue with the switch making contact with the ACC terminal, right?

Good to see you at SEMA!





Yes, Great to meet you as well!

Hard to say about the switch, but I would get the 500684 kit that gives you the correct connector and such in either case if you are going to get a new switch from us Mike. The 672 will give you a tumbler that will fit that switch.

Donny




 
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10050
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
11-30-13 08:22 PM - Post#2403859    
    In response to aawtech

I think I'm good to go here. My old lock cylinder fits your 500670 switch. The old switch does not have an ACC position, but I may use that terminal on your switch in the future.

The previous owner simply pushed the wires onto the old switch, so I'll install them with your terminals into the plastic connector.

Thanks for the help.


1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


 
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10050
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
12-01-13 01:30 PM - Post#2404040    
    In response to MikeB

OK, I understand the new switch and how to connect it. I also no understand the ACC terminal and key position.

Just one more question: The bezel I have is labeled LOCK-OFF-ON-START. Do you sell one that's labeled ACC-LOCK-OFF-ON-START to go with your switch?

On another note, the old switch was VERY old, and was either original or an OE replacement. In addition to the problem I mentioned above, I think some of the contacts were poor, causing reduced voltage to gauges, lamps, etc. Can't wait to get the new switch installed.


1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


Edited by MikeB on 12-01-13 01:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
57tim 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2971
57tim
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
Reg: 11-09-01
12-04-13 11:41 AM - Post#2404749    
    In response to MikeB

  • MikeB Said:
OK, I understand the new switch and how to connect it. I also no understand the ACC terminal and key position.

Just one more question: The bezel I have is labeled LOCK-OFF-ON-START. Do you sell one that's labeled ACC-LOCK-OFF-ON-START to go with your switch?

On another note, the old switch was VERY old, and was either original or an OE replacement. In addition to the problem I mentioned above, I think some of the contacts were poor, causing reduced voltage to gauges, lamps, etc. Can't wait to get the new switch installed.



I installed the ACC switch in my 57 and really like the ACC position since I have an electric choke. I used my existing key/tumbler and stock style replacement under dash wiring harness and took about 2 hours to southern engineer the harness to adapt to the ACC feature. Smoke tested and has been good to go. I just hope I never have to redo it but I did mark shop manual to reflect the new wiring.


57 Bel Air 2dr Ht
327 700r4
http://www.picturetrail.com/tmneid


 
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10050
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
12-04-13 03:57 PM - Post#2404815    
    In response to aawtech

Donny, I don't need to connect the GND terminal to chassis ground do I? When would I ever need a path to ground through the switch?

Wires appear to be 10 ga for BAT, IGN, and ACC, and 12 ga for SOL, so I should be good to go there.

Edit: Never mind. Everything works properly with no ground.




1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


Edited by MikeB on 12-09-13 06:59 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MikeB 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10050
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
12-09-13 06:58 AM - Post#2406084    
    In response to MikeB

Donny, any tips for tightening the threaded collar? Your 500670 switch comes with a collar that is tapered, so it's hard to grip. The collar on my old switch is easier to grip but it's a different thread. I see special wenches advertised, but don't know which one would fit your collar.

This, combined with no "locator key" to keep the switch from turning in the dash makes it hard to install.

On another note, your switch has an "ACC" position to the left of the "LOCK" position,which is a nice feature. But do you sell a bezel plate that's properly labeled for the switch?


1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.


Edited by MikeB on 12-09-13 07:02 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
aawtech 
American Autowire "Site Sponsor"
Posts: 5008

Loc: Bellmawr, NJ
Reg: 09-11-06
12-09-13 10:47 AM - Post#2406160    
    In response to MikeB

  • MikeB Said:
Donny, any tips for tightening the threaded collar? Your 500670 switch comes with a collar that is tapered, so it's hard to grip. The collar on my old switch is easier to grip but it's a different thread. I see special wenches advertised, but don't know which one would fit your collar.

This, combined with no "locator key" to keep the switch from turning in the dash makes it hard to install.

On another note, your switch has an "ACC" position to the left of the "LOCK" position,which is a nice feature. But do you sell a bezel plate that's properly labeled for the switch?




We do not have a new label for behind the switch, Mike, No. Off is now lock, and lock is now accessory.

The Camaro wrench advertised on many sites and Ebay works well. Get the backer nuts set up so the depth is adjusted properly and it screws on really easily Mike. Run the nut down on the threads to chase them a bit. I find that this technique works well. Once it is tight, a small screwdriver can be used to chase it a bit tighter to snug it up.

Donny



 
gramps1952 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 07-22-16
07-22-16 07:39 AM - Post#2641200    
    In response to aawtech

Donny
I cannot seam to find the 500684 kit you referred to on this post. I purchased a Highway 22 universal kit but the ignition switch just doesn't work for me in my '61 c10. I can find the switch alone, but not the plug for the back.

Donny




 
aawtech 
American Autowire "Site Sponsor"
Posts: 5008

Loc: Bellmawr, NJ
Reg: 09-11-06
07-25-16 11:32 AM - Post#2641736    
    In response to gramps1952

  • gramps1952 Said:
Donny
I cannot seam to find the 500684 kit you referred to on this post. I purchased a Highway 22 universal kit but the ignition switch just doesn't work for me in my '61 c10. I can find the switch alone, but not the plug for the back.

Donny




That is because it is not a listed in our catalog item. It's a replacement part for someone who needs on for one of our kits. Do you need the connector and terminals also so you can connect to it? What are you trying to sue this on?

Donny




 
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