"Another reason of why this site and the people that participate in it are great. I have been in need of a good running engine for the fleetline and thanks to Patgizz I now have one. He was kind enough to give a nice 250 I6 motor. Thanks again Pat!!!"
The instructions that came with the ball joints state 50-60ftlbs uppers and 70-80ftlbs lowers which conflicts with the 57 assembly manual. (56 assemble manual doesn't have torque values)
Add an additional 10ftlbs on the high side to get the cotter pin to line up and I have 70ftlbs on the uppers and 90ftlbs on the lowers. This is way out of the torque range for the 56 but is comparable to the ball joints torques for my 66 Impala. Is this acceptable? Have Ball Joints changed over the years? Thanks
I'd like to know the answer to this as well. I just assembled my front end with all new components. I used the 50-60ft/lb setting. Luckily all four castle nuts lined up perfectly. That will never happen again. CPP instructions called for this torque setting so I used it. ???????
Kick the tire light the fire! 55' Delray Club Coupe, a family icon for 40 years.
I just did the same this weekend on my '58. I'm not sure if this is the best approach, but here's what I did:
1. I followed the specs that came the the parts when available.
2. If the above weren't available, then I followed the torque specs from the manual.
3. When neither were available, I followed a standard Bolt Torque Spec table for the grade of fasteners that I used.
The reason that I followed the component specs first is that there could be small differences in the alloys used in new parts compared to the factory parts of 50 years ago. Therefore, the torque requirements could be different as a result.
I'm famous for either under- or over-torquing fasteners. Using the approach above, nothing broke and everything seems tight. I'll see how it goes as I drive the car over the next several days.