American Auto Wire
Username Post: Headlight relay question        (Topic#293568)
airbournein2001 
Contributor
Posts: 105

Loc: central ms
Reg: 06-28-12
02-16-13 09:01 AM - Post#2317420    

To all,

I am still battling a voltage issue. part of the troubleshooting process includes installing relays on all major electrical consumers, cooling fan, fuel pump, and now headlights.

My starter stud has pretty much filled up with other components, so I'm looking for somewhere to attach the 12 feed wire to the headlight relay. I am wanting to use one of the available 12 fused feed lines in the accessory connection, is that permissible?

A little background...installed the 500423 classic update, 100 amp alternator, electric fuel pump, 16" cooling fan. When I run the car, everything is great, When I turn on the headlights the fuel sump sound nearly cuts in half. Installed relay on the fuel pump, no change. I idled the car for 25 minutes with everything "turned on" like the fan, radio, heater, headlights, interior lights, brake lights, etc.. The fuel pump started to get pretty warm. have not had a chance to actually check voltage at the pump when everything is turned on, but assume due to its loss of sound, and it heating up that it is loosing voltage.

Once I get the headlight relay question answered, I'm going to get a new battery, check alternator belt tension, and check voltage throughout the system to try and locate the draw.

Thanks for any help

Kick the tire light the fire! 55' Delray Club Coupe, a family icon for 40 years.


 
aawtech 
American Autowire "Site Sponsor"
Posts: 5026

Loc: Bellmawr, NJ
Reg: 09-11-06
02-16-13 10:13 AM - Post#2317441    
    In response to airbournein2001

  • airbournein2001 Said:
To all,

I am still battling a voltage issue. part of the troubleshooting process includes installing relays on all major electrical consumers, cooling fan, fuel pump, and now headlights.

My starter stud has pretty much filled up with other components, so I'm looking for somewhere to attach the 12 feed wire to the headlight relay. I am wanting to use one of the available 12 fused feed lines in the accessory connection, is that permissible?

A little background...installed the 500423 classic update, 100 amp alternator, electric fuel pump, 16" cooling fan. When I run the car, everything is great, When I turn on the headlights the fuel sump sound nearly cuts in half. Installed relay on the fuel pump, no change. I idled the car for 25 minutes with everything "turned on" like the fan, radio, heater, headlights, interior lights, brake lights, etc.. The fuel pump started to get pretty warm. have not had a chance to actually check voltage at the pump when everything is turned on, but assume due to its loss of sound, and it heating up that it is loosing voltage.

Once I get the headlight relay question answered, I'm going to get a new battery, check alternator belt tension, and check voltage throughout the system to try and locate the draw.

Thanks for any help



With the 423 system, you should not be battling any voltage issues whatsoever. I suspect that you have a bad crimp at a main power source or the appliance creating the issue that has a problem. A fuel pump should only be drawing maybe 5-7 amps unless you have some exotic race motor. Even an FI motor shouldn't be drawing a ton of amperage. In addition, you really shouldn't stack any more than about 3 wires on the starter (beside the battery cable). You definitely should not need relays with our kit using the new H/L switch and dimmer switch. Again, make sure all the crimps that you made when building the harness are good. Solder them if they look suspect or marginal. If you have bad crimps at any of the connections, they will create a high resistance connection and be subject to low voltage and heat as you've described. If you do have many items already on relays, do yourself a favor and purchase a HD junction block and run an 8 gauge wire from that block to the starter cone. That way you'll only have that feed, the alternator feed, and the main power feed into the car on that stud (along with the battery cable).

Donny



Edited by aawtech on 02-16-13 10:15 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
airbournein2001 
Contributor
Posts: 105

Loc: central ms
Reg: 06-28-12
02-16-13 05:49 PM - Post#2317564    
    In response to aawtech

Thanks Donny,

It's not that I have too many items on the starter, it's that the stud is short! I only have one accessory item on the starter stud besides what is required, and that is the cooling fan.

I have called AAW tech line, they are the ones who told me to put relays on everything and install the 100 amp alternator. I finished the headlight relay install today using the accessory feed connector as the 12v fused feed to the relay. Seemed to work good. Everything works well except the fuel pump. This is the second time I have had issues with a pump. Working on the third pump now

Can you tell me which power connector crimps you might be referring to?Is there a popular list that I could start out with as a place to start checking? I will definitely go through and take a look at the crimps. I didn't use the professional crimp tool, as I didn't know it existed until I was past the half way mark on the install. I did however, take my sweet time on every crimp

Kick the tire light the fire! 55' Delray Club Coupe, a family icon for 40 years.


 
ButchJ 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 18

Reg: 07-27-13
07-29-13 09:24 AM - Post#2367335    
    In response to airbournein2001

I recently finished rewiring (new wiring harnesses) two large (64's) Buicks, and am now starting on my 67 Imp.
I do like the pros, I solder and shrink wrap EVERY connection. I also installed electric fuel pumps, electric fans, and a/c on each car. I put relays on everything. I used #12guage wiring on everything under the hood, #10 for the hot (red) wires. the problem with the fuel pump could be the ground. I'm assuming you did install the pump as close as possible to the gas tank - make sure the ground wire is connected to the frame on a clean surface.
Check the filter as well.



 
WagonMan 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1605
WagonMan
Age: 69
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
Reg: 10-26-04
08-02-13 12:34 PM - Post#2368600    
    In response to ButchJ

  • ButchJ Said:
I recently finished rewiring (new wiring harnesses) two large (64's) Buicks, and am now starting on my 67 Imp.
I do like the pros, I solder and shrink wrap EVERY connection. I also installed electric fuel pumps, electric fans, and a/c on each car. I put relays on everything. I used #12guage wiring on everything under the hood, #10 for the hot (red) wires. the problem with the fuel pump could be the ground. I'm assuming you did install the pump as close as possible to the gas tank - make sure the ground wire is connected to the frame on a clean surface.
Check the filter as well.



This would be correct ONLY if he has a connection from battery NEG to the frame. Almost ALL of the Ground circuits are through the BODY and not the frame.

Charles

57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)


 
Andy4639 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 816
Andy4639
Age: 57
Loc: Liberty, SC
Reg: 08-06-16
08-07-16 05:15 PM - Post#2644339    
    In response to WagonMan

I wouldn't have a classic vehicle with out relays on the head lights. Relays are good insurance for not burning down the whole wiring system.

Don't want to step on toes but relays are always a good addition to any wiring system no matter who's it is.
Think about it this way, it doesn't matter the size of wire to a point but the length of it.
Your 12 volts & amps start at the battery run to the Horn relay then to the head light switch then down to the dimmer then to both head lights. That's a lot of wire to run the load of the head light on high. It put undo stress on the H/L switch, dimmer switch. Install relays and all that amp load is gone. It only has to go through the relay to the lights. You save the head light switch and dimmer. You will get many years of service out of both.



1956 Bel Air - LT-1/4l60
1964 SS Impala -350 crate/powerglide
1967 Ramp truck - 350/ 4 speed
1971 C 10 - 6.0 LS / 4l80e 4:10 gears 30 years owner
94 Elderado
2000 S-10
2008 LTZ Tahoe
2011 Treverse


 
aawtech 
American Autowire "Site Sponsor"
Posts: 5026

Loc: Bellmawr, NJ
Reg: 09-11-06
08-07-16 06:37 PM - Post#2644356    
    In response to Andy4639

  • Andy4639 Said:
I wouldn't have a classic vehicle with out relays on the head lights. Relays are good insurance for not burning down the whole wiring system.

Don't want to step on toes but relays are always a good addition to any wiring system no matter who's it is.
Think about it this way, it doesn't matter the size of wire to a point but the length of it.
Your 12 volts & amps start at the battery run to the Horn relay then to the head light switch then down to the dimmer then to both head lights. That's a lot of wire to run the load of the head light on high. It put undo stress on the H/L switch, dimmer switch. Install relays and all that amp load is gone. It only has to go through the relay to the lights. You save the head light switch and dimmer. You will get many years of service out of both.




Andy, you are commenting on a 3 year old thread. I'm sure the poster is not seeing this. In addition, with the new system he had, the new switch and updated design, the relays are not necessary. Good idea in a 30-40 year old system to take the load of the old wiring and switches, I agree.

Donny




 
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