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Username Post: Yet another rough idle prob - '94 5.7L TBI        (Topic#293386)
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-12-13 11:06 AM - Post#2316077    

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/2053697/

  • someotherguy Said:
...With the meter set on DC voltage, or using a test light, check the EGR solenoid harness terminal A (pink/black) to ground. Key on, meter should read 12V or the test light should light up. Do not pierce the wire to test, simply unplug it and touch the test lead to the connector pin....

Richard



I did this test and got zero, nothing. The plug and connection at the plug looked bad so I cut the cut/stripped the wires, still nothing. I need to check connection back from there, I suppose. Fuse?

My truck is running rough. I checked fuel pressure, it looks fine. New IAC, new fuel pressure regulator.
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
navygunner08 
Contributor
Posts: 758
navygunner08
Loc: Norfolk, VA
Reg: 02-13-11
02-12-13 02:06 PM - Post#2316108    
    In response to LSUfan71

Can you be more descriptive? What was your psi? It should be more on the side of 11-13 preferably. Try replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS, Located next the water neck on the intake manifold. Its a $15 part and it goes bad often, causing lots of problems.
1994 K1500 Z-71


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25629
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
02-12-13 03:21 PM - Post#2316128    
    In response to navygunner08

Welcome to Chevytalk,

When you tested the EGR solenoid harness, did you put the positive lead of the meter on the connector for the pink/black wire, and then the negative lead of the meter to a ground source, like the ground strap or some clean metal on the engine? Or were you mistakenly testing between the two wires on the harness connector?

Richard
94 C2500LD / 94 C1500 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 06:40 AM - Post#2317007    
    In response to navygunner08

  • navygunner08 Said:
Can you be more descriptive? What was your psi? It should be more on the side of 11-13 preferably. Try replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS, Located next the water neck on the intake manifold. Its a $15 part and it goes bad often, causing lots of problems.



12 psi the first few times. Replaced the CTS a few months ago.

My mechanic had my truck 3 weeks and couldn't fix it. One of the last things he said was that the timing was fine but he wasn't sure what could be wrong. So I've been checking everything but the timing. New IAC, new MAP sensor, new fuel pressure regulator, new vacuum lines. New spark plug wires helped IMMENSELY and the new MAP sensor made a noticeable difference but there was still the problem.

I began to suspect that my mechanic didn't disconnect the EST when he set timing. I bought a new timing light, marked 0┬║ on the timing plate, marked the slot on the damper, and saw nothing. He obviously installed my new distributor 180┬║ off. That was late last night and it was cold so I quit. I'm gonna restart on it this morning.
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 06:43 AM - Post#2317010    
    In response to someotherguy

  • someotherguy Said:
Welcome to Chevytalk,

When you tested the EGR solenoid harness, did you put the positive lead of the meter on the connector for the pink/black wire, and then the negative lead of the meter to a ground source, like the ground strap or some clean metal on the engine? Or were you mistakenly testing between the two wires on the harness connector?

Richard



Thank you. I think I was at first. And I was misreading my meter. So I thing it's fine now. I installed a new MAP sensor too, it helped. Going to check the distributor this morning.

1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 09:55 AM - Post#2317074    
    In response to LSUfan71

With the #1 cylinder at TDC the distributor drops in at only two different spots, 180┬║ from each other. These are relatively located on either side (90┬║ from pointing to the front or rear). I put the distributor in with the rotor pointing to the driver's side, which is where I assumed the #1 spark plug wire would be. After putting the cap on and making sure all the spark plug wires are properly connect I'm getting no start (cranking tho).

I thought it should be fairly straight-forward to install a distributor with #1 cylinder at TDC. Thoughts?
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
navygunner08 
Contributor
Posts: 758
navygunner08
Loc: Norfolk, VA
Reg: 02-13-11
02-15-13 09:56 AM - Post#2317075    
    In response to LSUfan71

  • LSUfan71 Said:
  • navygunner08 Said:
Can you be more descriptive? What was your psi? It should be more on the side of 11-13 preferably. Try replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS, Located next the water neck on the intake manifold. Its a $15 part and it goes bad often, causing lots of problems.



12 psi the first few times. Replaced the CTS a few months ago.

My mechanic had my truck 3 weeks and couldn't fix it. One of the last things he said was that the timing was fine but he wasn't sure what could be wrong. So I've been checking everything but the timing. New IAC, new MAP sensor, new fuel pressure regulator, new vacuum lines. New spark plug wires helped IMMENSELY and the new MAP sensor made a noticeable difference but there was still the problem.

I began to suspect that my mechanic didn't disconnect the EST when he set timing. I bought a new timing light, marked 0┬║ on the timing plate, marked the slot on the damper, and saw nothing. He obviously installed my new distributor 180┬║ off. That was late last night and it was cold so I quit. I'm gonna restart on it this morning.




Yes, if you dont disconnect connector under the dash, you can still change the timing, but the ECM will continue to compensate for the change (only so far though). If you checked your timing and did not see your TDC mark on the damper then you need to set your base timing back to 0. If it is 180 out, you will need to take the distributor out, rotate the engine over until you are on the compression strock, with the timing mark on the damper at TDC on the timing indicator on the timing cover. To help turn over the engine, remove the spark plugs and then put your finger over the #1 spark plug to ensure you are on the compression stroke. When you put the distributor back, you will want the rotor to point at the #1 cylinder. If the distributor will not fully seat, you will have to rotate the oil pump drive shaft until it matches up and slides into the bottom of the distributor.
1994 K1500 Z-71


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25629
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
02-15-13 10:06 AM - Post#2317076    
    In response to navygunner08

* which takes a reaaaaaaaaaally long screwdriver.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 94 C1500 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 10:07 AM - Post#2317077    
    In response to navygunner08

  • navygunner08 Said:
Yes, if you dont disconnect connector under the dash, you can still change the timing, but the ECM will continue to compensate for the change (only so far though). If you checked your timing and did not see your TDC mark on the damper then you need to set your base timing back to 0. If it is 180 out, you will need to take the distributor out, rotate the engine over until you are on the compression strock, with the timing mark on the damper at TDC on the timing indicator on the timing cover. To help turn over the engine, remove the spark plugs and then put your finger over the #1 spark plug to ensure you are on the compression stroke. When you put the distributor back, you will want the rotor to point at the #1 cylinder. If the distributor will not fully seat, you will have to rotate the oil pump drive shaft until it matches up and slides into the bottom of the distributor.



This morning I put the #1 cylinder at TDC and the distributor dropped in with the rotor pointing to the driver's side. I aligned it with the #1 spark plug wire post and connected the other spark plug wires correctly but no start.

I'm wondering if I did something else wrong but I don't think so.
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 10:17 AM - Post#2317083    
    In response to LSUfan71

Unless I had the #1 cylinder at TDC on the exhaust stroke...
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
454cid 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1119
454cid
Age: 41
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
02-15-13 02:25 PM - Post#2317152    
    In response to LSUfan71

  • LSUfan71 Said:
Unless I had the #1 cylinder at TDC on the exhaust stroke...



Pull the valve cover, and look for both valves to be closed. That's what I did when replacing the timing chain on my Buick 350 years ago.
99 K3500 RCLB


 
navygunner08 
Contributor
Posts: 758
navygunner08
Loc: Norfolk, VA
Reg: 02-13-11
02-15-13 02:44 PM - Post#2317158    
    In response to 454cid

If you dropped it in and the rotor was pointing to the drivers side at t 90 degree angle (relative to the center of the engine) and then you roted the entire engine over to get the rotor to the #1, then yes this is a wrong way of doing it. When you first start to drop the distributor in the rotor will point to the drivers side (at about 90 degrees), but as your continue to drop it in, it will rotate to the #1 cylinder. It should fully seat. When it is fully seated and you loosely tighen it down, you are good to start the engine and fine toon the timing to 0 degrees.
1994 K1500 Z-71


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 04:22 PM - Post#2317190    
    In response to 454cid

  • 454cid Said:
  • LSUfan71 Said:
Unless I had the #1 cylinder at TDC on the exhaust stroke...



Pull the valve cover, and look for both valves to be closed. That's what I did when replacing the timing chain on my Buick 350 years ago.




I pulled the valve cover, put the notch at TDC with both #1 valves closed (tiny bit of looseness in both rockers).
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 04:25 PM - Post#2317191    
    In response to navygunner08

  • navygunner08 Said:
If you dropped it in and the rotor was pointing to the drivers side at t 90 degree angle (relative to the center of the engine) and then you roted the entire engine over to get the rotor to the #1, then yes this is a wrong way of doing it. When you first start to drop the distributor in the rotor will point to the drivers side (at about 90 degrees), but as your continue to drop it in, it will rotate to the #1 cylinder. It should fully seat. When it is fully seated and you loosely tighen it down, you are good to start the engine and fine toon the timing to 0 degrees.



This is what I just did. The rotor is now pointing to about 5 o'clock (if looking down from the front of the truck, and after I put the damper notch at TDC on the compression stroke. But now it won't start. Just turning over...

I am getting spark, lektrocuted myself

It was starting last night. Ideas?
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
navygunner08 
Contributor
Posts: 758
navygunner08
Loc: Norfolk, VA
Reg: 02-13-11
02-15-13 05:41 PM - Post#2317216    
    In response to LSUfan71

This may seem silly, but are your wires in the correct order?
1994 K1500 Z-71


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 05:51 PM - Post#2317220    
    In response to navygunner08

  • navygunner08 Said:
This may seem silly, but are your wires in the correct order?



Yep, I double and triple checked. It finally started a few times but would only run about 4-5 seconds. With the tan/black wire disconnected, it started with #1 on the distributor rotated almost at the 6pm position (looking down at the distributor from the front of the truck, of course).

1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
navygunner08 
Contributor
Posts: 758
navygunner08
Loc: Norfolk, VA
Reg: 02-13-11
02-15-13 06:19 PM - Post#2317235    
    In response to LSUfan71

Did you mess with your rocker arms at all? Have you replaced your Ignition Control Modual inside the distributor?
1994 K1500 Z-71


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 06:31 PM - Post#2317245    
    In response to navygunner08

  • navygunner08 Said:
Did you mess with your rocker arms at all? Have you replaced your Ignition Control Modual inside the distributor?



I haven't done anything with the rocker arms and I have not replaced the Ignition Control Module. A mechanic installed a new distributor with a new Ignition Control Module two weeks ago.
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-15-13 06:32 PM - Post#2317247    
    In response to someotherguy

Just made this vid, what can you guys tell me about it?

http://youtu.be/Cw3PSMQI9oA

1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


Edited by LSUfan71 on 02-15-13 07:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-16-13 07:44 AM - Post#2317394    
    In response to LSUfan71

Can the ignition coil be bad and still provide spark at the plugs?
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-17-13 08:46 AM - Post#2317710    
    In response to navygunner08

Can the ignition coil be bad and still provide spark at the plugs?
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
HMAJNG 
Contributor
Posts: 144

Loc: Hawaii
Reg: 01-21-13
02-19-13 06:57 PM - Post#2318747    
    In response to LSUfan71

I noticed you replaced a lot of related items that could possibly be the cause, but I did not see a new fuel filter...then again I would think you mechanic probably addressed this already...just though it might be worth mentioning.
Aloha...Woody


 
LSUfan71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
LSUfan71
Loc: Watson, LA, USA
Reg: 02-12-13
02-20-13 09:30 PM - Post#2319071    
    In response to HMAJNG

  • HMAJNG Said:
I noticed you replaced a lot of related items that could possibly be the cause, but I did not see a new fuel filter...then again I would think you mechanic probably addressed this already...just though it might be worth mentioning.



Yes, I installed a new fuel filter. I just installed a new coil with no change. Tomorrow or Friday I will repeat the fuel pressure tests, I'm thinking I may not have done it correctly the first time. Just to be sure...
1994 K1500 Z-71, 5.7L


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
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