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 Page 5 of 7 « First<4567
Username Post: 55 Sport Coupe - 396 LT1 - T56        (Topic#292613)
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5250
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
06-12-15 01:26 PM - Post#2554123    
    In response to 2Loose

Ugh oh!!! Willie's messing with clutches again. Seems we've been down this road at least once before??? I'd stick with the factory hydraulic clutch before attempting the Tilton unit. What will you do with the clutch pedal master? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 

2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-13-15 11:11 AM - Post#2554295    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Clutch MC, I'm looking around for alternatives, I have a '55 oem pedal setup for a stick shift, got it from one of the CT members, so need to install that, then find an appropriate MC to mount on the firewall. I have the original '93 MC, but it doesn't match up very well with the firewall on the '55, so I'm just looking around. Any suggestions??
Willy



 
2Loose 
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
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06-14-15 10:36 AM - Post#2554508    
    In response to 2Loose

Decided to stay with the original '93 Camaro hydraulic clutch setup at the slave end, too much fabrication required with the Tilton, although it would be nice to have a completely internal slave cylinder on this tranny.

Looking through my parts bins, found a brass pilot bushing for a big block Olds (425/455), checked the dimensions, it's the same for a Chevy both sbc and bbc. Got a bolt out of the bolt box the right size, adjusted the nut to put some bolt inside the bushing, put a small amount of silicone grease inside the crankshaft hole, and tapped the bushing in, just enough so it is flush with the crank surface surrounding the hole....



I also had a pair of the longer dowel pins for locating the bell housing, I like those, as they give more room to begin the alignment when bolting up the tranny to the motor. But the original dowel pins are refusing to come out easily, so will get more aggressive in removing them, like welding nuts onto them and with a helper, twisting them and tapping hard on them, luckily this block has access holes behind the pins where I can get a punch in there to pound on the pins. So far this has been met with total resistance....

Pix later....
Willy



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-17-15 08:54 PM - Post#2555501    
    In response to 2Loose

With a buddy helping me, we welded large nuts on the old dowel pins, and while they were hot, put an impact gun on them, and twisted them while a buddy pounded on them through a hole in front of them with a long, heavy duty punch. They slowly began to turn and eventually came out. This one was almost all the way out. I do this right after welding, while they are still hot.





Then I cleaned out the holes, applied a small amount of silicone grease to the inside of the holes, and tapped the long dowel pins in all the way....



I recently had to rebuild the Doug Nash 5 speed in my other '55 (a gasser style build), after I destroyed the input shaft gear, so I have a nice Chevy input shaft to use to align clutches...



It does a very nice job aligning the clutch plate with the pilot bushing...



The clutch release bearing (throw-out bearing) for this '93 LT1 (5.7 liter) is a bit unusual, and I am having a difficult time finding a replacement, as this one is noisy and I don't want to use it. My local NAPA dealer doesn't even list it. I can't go any further with this until I can find a replacement. Even online, I'm told they just are not available.





It's a hydraulically operated clutch with an external slave cylinder. The original slave cylinder seems to be ok, we shall see.



More Later....
Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5250
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
06-17-15 09:31 PM - Post#2555508    
    In response to 2Loose

Years ago, when I was building my front engine dragster, I had to have a 1/4" thick, aluminum, block plate/firewall made. I had to get longer alignment dowels also because of the plate, but used Moroso hollow ones that I could pass wiring through. I did't want to drill any un-needed holes in that block plate (it was't cheap), so the Moroso pins came in handy for that purpose. That was about 1980. I still have the engine and 5000 RPM stall, Powerglide, torque converter from the dragster. The engine has been in three more "cars" since then, including a short stint in my daily driver truck during the 90's, that I still drive today! Interestingly, today I was thinking how I'd like to have a front engine dragster again. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-21-15 11:21 AM - Post#2556383    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Butch, it's interesting you are thinking that way, the 502 in my '58 pickup has been a bulletproof motor for 17 years now, when I get this HT done, have been thinking of putting together a dragster, rebuild that 502 (stock 454 crank, large bores) into a bigger stroker to put in the dragster, and put a very nice small block in the '58. Might never happen, but fun to think about it.

Back to the '55:
I spent a lot of time online looking for a new throwout bearing, and finally found one at ebay. It came in 3 days, on Friday, and my buddies and I bolted everything together and put it in the frame on "Fender Friday" (our weekly get together with beer and BBQ). But now the drive shaft I ordered from Strange Engineering is too long. I still have a copy of the order sheet, it clearly states 53-1/2", the one they sent me is 56" long. I'll call them on Monday.

I had sent them a damaged drive shaft from my '55 Chevy gasser, it has a shorter gearbox and that drive shaft was 56". The rear u-joint yoke was damaged on that one, (I blew it up drag racing) and I had asked them to shorten it to 53-1/2" and put a new yoke on it. They called after receiving the damaged drive shaft and said it was also slightly bent, and was not repairable, so I had told them to just make me a new one. But obviously they ignored the order sheet and made a replacement for the damaged driveshaft. It's their mistake, let's see how they handle it.

Just got off the phone with Strange Engin. They are working with me to correct the problem, they're a bunch of good guys!

Here's how it sits now...





Now to finish the motor (starter, water pump, ignition, efi, alternator, PS pump, pulleys and belts) and add the exhaust system and fuel system, and as much else as I can think of before putting the body back on.

Am I having fun? You bet! I've never had the time before to do this much detail on a car, and on my favorite, a '55 Sport Coupe, I'm a lucky guy...

Aloha,
Willy



Edited by 2Loose on 06-22-15 04:22 PM. Reason for edit: Strange Is Helping Out

 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-25-15 10:12 AM - Post#2557453    
    In response to 2Loose

I'm going to be away from this project for awhile, I sliced the back of my hand pretty badly, severed some finger tendons, having surgery tomorrow to try and fix that, but will not be using my left hand for quite awhile until it heals up!

And I don't think I'll be driving my gasser during this time either, unless I can figure out a way to steer with my left when shifting, without disturbing the healing process!

But my '55 Chevy truck is an automatic, I can still drive that....

At least it wasn't my right hand!
Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5250
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
06-25-15 12:58 PM - Post#2557489    
    In response to 2Loose

Dang! That's too bad. Hope the surgery goes well, and you're not sidelined for too long. Must have been difficult to type your posting. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
Age: 75
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06-25-15 01:36 PM - Post#2557495    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Yeah, Butch, I'm back to 1 finger for now....



 
knightfan2691 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6177
knightfan2691
Age: 44
Loc: Elgin IL
Reg: 11-18-02
06-26-15 06:13 AM - Post#2557625    
    In response to 2Loose

  • 2Loose Said:
...I sliced the back of my hand pretty badly, severed some finger tendons, having surgery tomorrow to try and fix that, but will not be using my left hand for quite awhile until it heals up!



Aye, very sorry, Willy ... thoughts/prayers en route....


Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com
1979 & 1989 Caprice Classics | pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve
"I'm on a wheel of fortune with a twist of fate" __ Bee Gees __ 'Alone'



 
cnbell 
Senior Member
Posts: 9224
cnbell
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 04-14-04
06-26-15 09:26 AM - Post#2557667    
    In response to 2Loose

Wow, sorry to hear that Willy.

Did it happen while working on the car ?



Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell


 
2Loose 
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-28-15 10:03 AM - Post#2558016    
    In response to cnbell

I'm embarrassed to say....
I was cutting 3" exhaust pipe on my steel chop saw for an e-cutout setup for my '58 pro street chevy truck
(http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/322924/)
and just barely bumped the back of my hand against the 14" abrasive cut off wheel while
it was still spinning. It cut deep and got the middle finger tendon, I could see the tendon before the blood covered it up.
Oooof and Ouch!
It's really slowed me down!
Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5250
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
06-28-15 11:32 AM - Post#2558039    
    In response to 2Loose

Grinding wheels and saws tend to pull you into them once they get ahold of you, causing even more damage. The thousands of X-Rays I did on those injuries in my career. Tendon repair can be tricky; you can't scar the tendon or sheath up with the repair, otherwise the tendon won't slide through like it's supposed to. Microscopic surgery in a lot of cases. I used to know a hand surgeon that was the best in the Seattle area, but the volume of work is such that he finally retrained to orthopedics. That, and it'd very tedious working under the microscope. Good luck with your surgery Willy! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
cnbell 
Senior Member
Posts: 9224
cnbell
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 04-14-04
06-29-15 10:16 AM - Post#2558247    
    In response to 2Loose

Man, hate to hear that. Amazing how quickly a cut off wheel can cause serious damage. I've had my run in's with them over the years but never anything as serious as yours.

Good luck on the surgery, hope you're back at it soon.

Craig

http://www.picturetrail.com/cnbell


 
2Loose 
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2Loose
Age: 75
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07-15-15 10:29 PM - Post#2562057    
    In response to cnbell

Thanks for the comments Butch.
Surgery took 2-1/2 hrs, he said it was a bit messy in there, but thought it would heal up pretty well.
I might get full use back by next year. Am trying to work one handed, progress is pretty minimal!

Meanwhile, I'm learning to drive & shift the gasser one handed, a challenge, lucky it was my left I injured!
Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5250
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
07-16-15 08:50 PM - Post#2562260    
    In response to 2Loose

You're back! Good that it went well. Hang loose.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
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12-09-15 08:20 PM - Post#2594542    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Got a "BeCool" front end system, too shiny for me, looking at blacking it out. Will post pix first, it's just to blinking blingie for me....
Heck, I'm a farm boy, whatta I know...
Willy



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
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01-30-16 01:01 PM - Post#2605493    
    In response to 2Loose

The injured left hand is still not working too well, about 50% I'd guess, but I'm doing things, just a little slower...
And of course two of the other rigs developed issues that needed attention, like blowing 3rd gear (again) in the gasser, and having brake problems in the '58 pickup, so been working on those...

But I pulled out the accessories, still on an old LT1 block, and looked as how to fit them on the new LT1 motor in the '55. I do see problems.

The first thing I tried to work with was the water pump, but it turned out to be badly rusted inside, so am looking for a new one.


Brackets to fit AC compressor, Alternator, and PS pump on this LT1 in a '55 Chevy seem to be seriously lacking. March Performance seems to have the best looking setup, but they are $eriously expen$ive.

Am looking around...

Any ideas out there?
Aloha,
Willy

More HERE



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-02-16 11:18 AM - Post#2606186    
    In response to 2Loose

Got a new water pump installed, and put the headers on, a few small problems with the headers, like touching the steering box on the left side, and the grease nipple on the right side steering idler arm:










I'm working on it...
Willy

More HERE



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
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02-02-16 06:33 PM - Post#2606291    
    In response to 2Loose

By rotating that steering idler arm, you can see how much clearance I have. I'll drill, tap and relocate that grease zerk.


And ground off the corner of the steering box for clearance. May need a bit more, we'll see...


Aloha,
Willy

More HERE, scroll down



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5250
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
02-02-16 07:55 PM - Post#2606318    
    In response to 2Loose

If the engine was just 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch lower..................I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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02-02-16 08:31 PM - Post#2606326    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Interesting thought, Butch, letsee where that leads...
Willy

Slow Old Man=Fast Old Cars
Some Photos
2Loose Home Page
Chevys:55.Hardtop;55.4drgasser;
55.4x4truck;58.prostreettruck
+57.Olds;70.BuickGS
Avatar:Bill Stinson


 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-17-16 01:11 PM - Post#2609566    
    In response to 2Loose

These are the accessories I have, but they do not fit on the new motor...

The AC compressor hits the new motor mount on the right side, and the alternator hits the right side valve cover. Looking at alternatives, this setup from March Performance (MP) looks like the best fit...

I have a discussion going with MP to try to get a good fit for my setup.
Aloha,
Willy



 
rcr3 
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rcr3
Age: 66
Loc: Manheim Pa. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
02-18-16 05:09 AM - Post#2609702    
    In response to 2Loose

Happy birthday!!!

'12 Cruze RS LTZ
'73 Nova hatchback Sold 12/23/12
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'74 Nova Custom cp.
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT
'00 S10 Ex cab
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'67 Camaro survivor




 
55 Shaker 
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Age: 68
Loc: north central IL.
Reg: 03-13-06
02-18-16 06:42 AM - Post#2609728    
    In response to 2Loose

HAPPY BIRTHDAY WILLY!!! Enjoy your special day.

The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!!


 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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02-18-16 04:36 PM - Post#2609823    
    In response to 55 Shaker

Thanks Guys,
Took the '55 gasser out for a run, had the GoPro running, was gonna put it up on youtube, but can't get my laptop to recognize the SD card !!!




 
2Loose 
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2Loose
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02-21-16 11:37 AM - Post#2610422    
    In response to 2Loose

The March "Outward Mount" setup shown above, for the LT1 motor, uses the Corvette version of the crank balancer (or damper), as it is mounted further forward than the Camaro version is. Mine is the ATI Super Damper Camaro version, but I've learned from ATI that the only difference is the flanged hub itself, as shown below, so I have a Corvette version of the flanged hub on order to replace my Camaro version:



So I need to swap out that flanged hub for this longer Corvette version when I get it:



And according to both March Performance and ATI Racing the balancer will work with the new March accessories system.
Aloha,
Willy

More here...
scroll down




 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
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Reg: 03-17-03
02-25-16 07:09 PM - Post#2611517    
    In response to 2Loose

March Performance not helping me much with this order. Just want brackets and adjusters and idlers, they want to sell me new accessories when mine will work just great! They want to sell me pulleys when I have the right pulleys on all the accessories. I just need brackets and tension adjustors and idlers and am having a difficult time getting them to specify just that.
Let's see what happens. My opinion of their customer service at this point is pretty bad!
Aloha,
Willy



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 75
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Reg: 03-17-03
03-02-16 08:02 PM - Post#2612755    
    In response to 2Loose



Kept working with March Performance, got the order pared down to the essentials, no pulley covers, no water pump cover, just functioning parts only. Choices on finish were clear over brushed aluminum, chrome, and black. I went for black, as the final color scheme for this car is red/black. Anything shiny will get color sprayed over it. Anyone know anything about these plastic sheets they put over metal? Seen them do whole cars? Maybe do my alternator and any shiny parts? Red or Black, of course. My favorite colors.

Here's what I have coming:
20931-08 alternator bracket
20932-08 ac bracket
20933-08 ps bracket
20934-08 idler bracket
20140-08 alternator relocator bracket
208a-08 alternator pulley
618-08 ps pulley
P410 polished ac compressor
P315 ps pump
420-08 reservoir
P3222 hose kit

The hose kit should attach to the reverse flair connections on the 500 steering box, and cut and fit fittings on the other end to the pump, and the reservoir of PS oil.

I'll use my '93 Camaro alternator, and will find out how well their PS pump and their AC compressor work. I like to use Vintage Air, have had good luck with them in the past, so will check how their stuff matches up with the AC compressor I'm getting from MP.

Challenges, ahh yes, I love 'em...
Willy



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4316
2Loose
Age: 75
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
03-05-16 03:01 PM - Post#2613261    
    In response to 2Loose

Removed the steering idler arm assembly and took it apart...



And found that the "upgrade" ball bearings have been added, replacing the OEM bushing system. But the bearings are worn, dry, and have not had grease in some time, so a new ball bearing set is on order from Danchuck, should be here any day now...

In the meantime, I need to drill and tap to relocate that grease fitting where it will not hit the #4 header tube...



 

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