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 Page 2 of 8 <2345>» Last
Username Post: 55 Sport Coupe - 396 LT1 - T56        (Topic#292613)
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-13-13 11:01 AM - Post#2316402    
    In response to 1956cpe

Has anyone tried the Delphi 600 steering box? I just heard about it, it has a little faster steering ratio than the CPP 500 box? at least that's what I heard....
Willy



 

2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-16-13 02:14 PM - Post#2317519    
    In response to 2Loose

As I really want to get this car on the road and drive it, am rethinking just how far I want to go with it!

At last nite's "Fender Friday" session, it was agreed that the condition of the car is so good that it would make sense to just do a really nice clean up job! Clean, paint and refresh everything to look good, like the frame rails, firewall, floors, brake lines, then just start putting it back together....

CPP 500 power steering box, power brake MC, new windshield wiper setup, put in the motor and tranny, new wire kit throughout, leave the existing paint and upholstery for now, it's really in pretty good shape!

Then just drive it for awhile, and enjoy it. Then gradually work on the upholstery and patching up the existing paint here and there as needed, but keep it essentially as is! Eventually the front and rear glass need to be popped out and the glass frame reworked to clean it and remove rust, then reinstall the glass (it is in good condition) with new rubber, the existing stuff is hard as a rock!

I'll get it on the road a lot faster then trying to do a complete frame off and body rework, and will be able to enjoy it a lot more, which really is the goal here, as I never intended this to be a "show car"....

And it will fit my budget for this car a lot better!
Aloha,
Willy



 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5329
56sedandelivery
Age: 66
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
02-17-13 08:51 PM - Post#2317983    
    In response to 2Loose

Now you're talking! I agree on not going "overboard"; keep it old school. Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
02-18-13 11:08 AM - Post#2318140    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Started fitting in the old tubs I had cut out, to widen them. The "mini-tubs" as it is sometimes referred to.

There are many ways to do this, this is just the way I choose to do it. This is not a show car, and is intended to be a daily driver, fast, handle well, but still, not going to take the time to do precision cutting and fitting on these tubs, just make them strong and solid.

Started by trimming and notching the old tub I had cut out so it could be moved over and welded back in place:



Trial fit:


It's a pretty good fit, it will take a little more trimming and some hammering to get the fit I want, then will tack it in place and make a template for the piece to be added to fill in the gap....

I used this same method on the '55 4dr gasser, this is how that came out....

I will paint and carpet the hardtop trunk though, it will be finished nicely inside....

Now to do the other side the same....
Aloha,
Willy

LINK more pix on my web page....

LINK to mini-tub job on the gasser...



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
03-01-13 02:13 PM - Post#2321858    
    In response to 2Loose

Got both sides rear tubs trimmed and fitted pretty well. Filled in the spare tire well and welded in some other pieces I had cut out when I was moving the springs in under the frame rails. Got the right side tub welded in place, still have to weld in the left side, then I will fill in the gap over the top on both sides, and weld in a support for the trunk hinge.
Willy





 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
05-02-13 12:49 PM - Post#2341244    
    In response to 2Loose

It's gettin' there, slowly, but it's gettin' there...


Need to put the supports for the trunk hinges, and a couple more small patches and then seam sealer and paint and the trunk and mini-tubs are done....
Willy

Home Page for this car....



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
06-29-13 12:24 PM - Post#2359427    
    In response to 2Loose

Got the trunk done, will carpet it later:



Started working on the inside floors, some patching/welding, but mostly rust removal, metal prep, then coating with the same bed liner I used in the trunk. Carpeting to follow.


This project is moving along much slower than I planned, as my other rigs keep developing problems that need immediate attention, like the leaky water pump on my 55 pickup, and the failed brakes on my 58 pickup. It never ends!

But it's still fun, even if it is occasionally frustrating!

Aloha,
Willy



 
jeffs55 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11788
jeffs55
Age: 59
Loc: Shelby Forest, Tennessee
Reg: 01-05-06
07-06-13 04:02 PM - Post#2361278    
    In response to 2Loose

Lookin' good Willy.

Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
1948 Studebaker Champion
1977 Toyota Celica Coupe
2000 Blazer 4X4
My Pics


 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
09-05-13 11:58 PM - Post#2379583    
    In response to jeffs55

Family, House projects, travel, my two trucks with tech problems, man, there's always something!

Got the inside floors in pretty good shape, welded up as needed, scrubbed 'em good with a wire wheel, then Oshpho (phosphoric acid) to kill any remaining rust "goblins", then hit needed areas with a good quality Napa seam sealer, let that go off, good and hard, then hit it with a rubber compound of some sort from Rustoleum. Will list it in a future post....






Just covering it up with the rubber compound makes a huge difference!





There's these access holes in the front seat foot area on both sides, I think originally they had rubber plugs, but think I'll just make cover plates and screw them down with seam sealer around the edges...





Moving on to the front frame clip and firewall...



A lot of scraping, scrubbing, cleaning needed here, only a little welding, some fresh paint, then I can hang the new front suspension on...



More later, thinking about what kind of motor mounts I want to fab for the LT1, getting close to fitting that and the T56 in place....
Aloha,
Willy

LINK to floor/firewall repair page...



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
09-13-13 11:54 AM - Post#2381763    
    In response to 2Loose

Not a lot going on, just scraping and cleaning the frame and firewall, trying to get it ready to paint, and still have to repair the rust inside the air ventilation boxes on each side behind the firewall.
-Willy


LINK to '55 Sport Coupe Homepage



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
11-11-13 12:42 PM - Post#2398682    
    In response to 2Loose

This project had to sit for awhile, some of my other rigs developed problems and needed attention, ya gotta keep 'em on the road and runnin', ya know?

Anyway, dug out all the Heidt's suspension parts that I had sitting on the shelf:
Upper and lower tubular A-arms,
Coil-overs,
2" dropped spindles,
the earlier GM disk brakes, look like Chevelle to me....

Also picked up a 500 power steering box, and a painted (well, I'm gonna paint it....) Ididit tilt steering column to go with it.

Have the "new style" Earl Williams side mounts, they are very nice!

Eventually the body is going to come off, but wanted to have the steering etc. parts all on there when I fitted the LT1 and T56 in, with the Hooker Super Comp headers, and welded in the new motor mounts. Plus I think that tranny is going to hit the floor tunnel, and that might need some modification.

Got the frame well scrubbed in front, and painted it with the Rusteoleum black Hammertone paint, it came out nice. Still needs more paint where the motor mounts will go, but it's a start....

With all that sheet metal gone, not motor, that front end is pretty light. When I jacked the bottom A-arm to compress the coil-overs for installation, had to tie the frame to a 4x4 under the jack! What fun....



I'll post more pix as I get more done here, with the cleaning and painting, where wasn't much to show.

The plan is to install the exhaust system, get all the hangers, etc. that will be needed welded onto the frame, then the body is coming off and the frame will get cherried out.
Aloha,
Willy

Steering and Suspension Page



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
11-19-13 07:52 AM - Post#2400714    
    In response to 2Loose

Not a lot going on, other more "urgent" projects taking priority, but did manage to get the steering components cleaned up. They were badly encrusted with dirt, grease, who knows what:



After about a half a day of careful scraping and lots of scrubbing in the solvent tank, they cleaned up pretty nicely, the ball joints feel nice and tight, so am going to reuse them:



Now for some paint, new grease cups on the ball joints, and hang it back on the front end.

Am traveling for a couple of weeks, so it will get done when I get back....
Aloha all, and have a Great Thanksgiving!!
Willy

Steering and Suspension Page



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
12-29-13 06:53 PM - Post#2411615    
    In response to 2Loose

Hard to make any real progress with the holidays, travel, family visiting, all that comes first in our famly, but I have gotten a few things done:

Got the steering linkage on and the steering arms were hitting the lower ball joints of the Heidt's assemblies:


Grinding a small relief into the steering arms, just enough to give the necessary clearance, was easy enough to do:


Got some grade 8 bolts with enough unthreaded shank to fill the holes in the steeering arms, then cut off the excess threaded stock flush with the spindles:


The brake rotors came from Heidt's with 7/16" by 1" wheel studs, too small and too short!



Pressed 'em out and pressed in some 1/2" by 1-3/4" wheel studs I got from Moser:



Bolted up nice and snug now!


Happy New Year to all!
Willy



 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 13966
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
12-29-13 08:25 PM - Post#2411666    
    In response to 2Loose

Glad to see you making progress Willy. Glad to hear how important family is to you too. Looking good.

Happy New Year to you too.

Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon


 
carolinakid 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 919
carolinakid
Loc: Sanford NC
Reg: 08-27-03
12-29-13 10:11 PM - Post#2411688    
    In response to 2Loose

Just a quick question, How do the caliper brackets attache to the spindles.



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
12-29-13 10:50 PM - Post#2411699    
    In response to carolinakid

I will check that soon to make sure the calipers will fit with these 15" wheels, but in this pic there are four holes available, two visible here and two on the other side of the spindle:

If I were running drum brakes, the backing plate carrying the brake shoes and the related parts would use those four holes to mount up. With a disk setup the brackets that carry the calipers mount on the two holes in the rear. Here's a pic from when I first set it up on the bench:


I'll take some pix of that when I check that out, sometime this week...
Willy



 
carolinakid 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 919
carolinakid
Loc: Sanford NC
Reg: 08-27-03
12-30-13 06:02 PM - Post#2411909    
    In response to 2Loose

Thanks for explaining and thanks for all the other great pictures. Look forward to following this thread and your work/build. Carolina Kid



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
12-30-13 11:40 PM - Post#2412004    
    In response to carolinakid

Had to put the new upper A-Arm rubber bumpers in place in the frame, so had to jack up the suspension to do that, hauled out the 4x4, jack and rope again....


and stuck that rubber bumper in there....


Didn't want that bumper sitting crushed for long periods of time while I worked on the rest of the car, so stuck a piece of wood in under the upper A-Arm to "take a load off...."


Fitted the caliper mount plates onto the spindles, they can be mounted on the front as easily as on the back with this particular setup, but I've always put them on the back...


Fitted the calipers on, with the bleeder screw facing up....

These are spec'd as 10.5" '79 - '81 Chevelle rotors and calipers, easy to get parts for...

Loaded in the brake pads....


And bolted up the 15" Torque Thrust wheels, they fit just fine, plenty of clearance!




So now I have to bolt the tranny up to the motor, and fit it in place and weld in the new side motor mounts.
Aloha,
Willy


LINK to my web page....



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
01-15-14 02:29 PM - Post#2417035    
    In response to 2Loose

Been slow processing my pix and getting my web pages updated. Here's the motor "dummied up" in the car, Earl Williams side mounts in place, Super Comps fit nicely, today installing the cross-member for the tranny support....

Got a bunch more pix on my web page HERE....

With the LT1 distributor in front, I tucked it up pretty snug against the firewall. I'll be modifying the firewall to give me plenty of room to get the valve covers off, and will be checking clearance with the brake master cylinder.
Aloha,
Willy



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
01-20-14 10:55 AM - Post#2418512    
    In response to 2Loose

Not much to add, the motor mounts are partially welded in place, will weld some more on them after pulling the motor/tranny back out:

Meanwhile I cleaned up the old tranny mount that was in this car and located it for the T56, and welded it in place. This car had a "wheeezy" 350/350 combo leakin' all over the place when I got it, sold that for $350 to a guy who is now rebuilding it! The exhaust openings in this one just happen to match up with the Hooker collectors quite nicely!

I have a good Strange Engineering 3-1/2" driveshaft that had been in my '55 gasser, but I broke the front U-joint at the track and messed up the front of that one. With the T56 I can shorten it a little and weld on a new front yoke and be good to go!!!
Aloha,
Willy

My Webpage



 
4dr 57 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4500
4dr 57
Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
01-20-14 06:00 PM - Post#2418650    
    In response to 2Loose

  • 2Loose Said:
Been slow processing my pix and getting my web pages updated. Here's the motor "dummied up" in the car, Earl Williams side mounts in place, Super Comps fit nicely, today installing the cross-member for the tranny support....

Got a bunch more pix on my web page HERE....

With the LT1 distributor in front, I tucked it up pretty snug against the firewall. I'll be modifying the firewall to give me plenty of room to get the valve covers off, and will be checking clearance with the brake master cylinder.
Aloha,
Willy





A little extra room for the wiring harness might help too, unless the computer is going out side the drivers compartment.
hey, do you ospho the rusty stuff before you spray?
I love your work!

Stan


It's all good. mostly




 
leeb 
Member
Posts: 51

Loc: Rockville,Md
Reg: 05-06-02
01-21-14 08:22 AM - Post#2418851    
    In response to 4dr 57

Good looking work! I see a level sitting on top of the motor. I am going the same route and wondering if the motor should be level front-to-rear as well as side-to-side. I will be putting in the cross member for the tranny and I think the front-to-rear leveling will impact the drive shaft angle. Should the motor be level front-to-rear?
Really like the pictures.



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
01-21-14 03:10 PM - Post#2418959    
    In response to leeb

No, you actually want it to aim the motor/tranny somewhat down in the rear. Try to aim the centerline of the motor/trans to the pinion shaft on the rear end, with the rear sitting at normal ride height. If you were to pull a straight string or centerline from an imaginary crankshaft centerline exactly to the differential, with the differential angled up to match that centerline, I usually set it 1 to 2 degrees up at the trans (going from from trans to driveshaft u-joint angles down 1 to 2 degrees) and match that at the diff by setting it a matching 1 to 2 degrees down from that imaginary centerline (angles up going from the dif to the driveshaft. That's called phasing the driveshaft u-joints, and the 1 to 2 degrees keep the u-joint bearings moving a slight amount to they are not always in the same spot. Evens out the wear patterns.

I sometimes have to add steel angle wedges (I've had aluminum ones break, don't use them!) under the axle pads at the leaf springs to get that adjustment up or down at the pinion. With ladder bars it easy to adjust the proper pinion angle in to match the trans angle. Likewise with four links.

I haven't adjusted the rear end yet, it's pretty close, but will do the final adjustment with steel wedges, if needed, when the car is complete and at it's final drive weight and height. Right now I have a couple hundred pounds of barbell weights in the trunk, as the lid is off, no fuel tank, and no battery in the trunk, yet....

Here's a good reference pic:


Angle one must match angle two, and ideally be small. I've seen them at much as 5 degrees, and that can be a little noisy.
The bigger the angle, the more the instantaneous acceleration factor increases, producing harmonics felt as noise and vibration, as the driveshaft turns, and you want to keep that minimized.

Here's a good article on that....

Aloha,
Willy



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
01-21-14 09:52 PM - Post#2419094    
    In response to 2Loose

Just a couple of pix, crawled under the car and took one of the tranny mount. A cobbled up pos the previous owner put in, but it's actually pretty solid, so I cleaned it up a bit and put it back in service under the tail of the T56 in my '55....



Now I gotta patch up a Strange Engineering driveshaft I broke in my '55 "gasser", and shorten it to fit in this rig...



After the brackets for the exhaust system are welded in place on the frame rails, the motor is coming out, and the body is coming off....



And, YUP, I'm still havin' fun....
Aloha,
Willy



 
models916 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4774

Age: 67
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
01-22-14 06:52 AM - Post#2419165    
    In response to 2Loose

At ride height, the carb/FI base top should be level. That usually puts the tailshaft down about 3 degrees. Level carb is the most important thing. then make the pinion match the output shaft.



 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27305
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
01-22-14 09:20 AM - Post#2419207    
    In response to models916

The engine/transmission angle should be 4º down in back. relative to a level frame rail. The carb pad on stock and most aftermarket manifolds should be level when you do this.

But, the LT1/LT4 EFI manifold does not have any 4º surfaces on it. The top of the manifold is parallel to the crankshaft.



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
01-22-14 12:01 PM - Post#2419256    
    In response to Rick_L

The car's frame was level side to side, but not front to back, the front was lower. Pulled a string from the pinion yoke center to the tranny yoke center and tried to get the tranny as close to zero angle with the string as I could. I don't have a driveshaft that fits right now, that would have been my preferred way to set the tailshaft height to get a good angle with the driveshaft, then adjust the rear axle housing if needed to match, getting the angles properly phased. I have a smaller pinion yoke on the rear end at the moment, need to change it to a 1350 yoke, then I'll take measurements between the two yokes to determine my desired driveshaft length. The rear yoke on the driveshaft is a 1350, so is the front, but it is damaged, so will cut that off and weld in a new one when I shorten that driveshaft shown above.
Aloha,
Willy



 
2Loose 
"13th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 4329
2Loose
Age: 76
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
01-26-14 09:13 PM - Post#2420593    
    In response to 2Loose

Checked the rear yoke on the pinion shaft, it's for the smaller size u-joint bearings, I'm going to change it to a 1350 yoke. Found one on eekbay for $65, advertised as new, billet, shipping $9. Let's see what I get for that.



 
Badger56 
Contributor
Posts: 882
Badger56
Age: 41
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 01-08-07
04-18-14 01:05 PM - Post#2445684    
    In response to 2Loose

Will you have to modify the trans tunnel to fit the t-56? I mean other than the hole for the shifter. Also are your mounts in the stock position or forward.


Thanks



 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 27305
Rick_L
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
04-18-14 05:52 PM - Post#2445762    
    In response to Badger56

  • Quote:
Will you have to modify the trans tunnel to fit the t-56?



I had to raise my tunnel about 1-1/4" at the shifter. Tapering to nothing at the pinch weld. But most of the pinch weld flange has to be removed also.



 

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