airbournein2001
Forum Newbie
Posts: 67
Loc: central ms
Reg: 06-28-12
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09-15-12 11:51 AM - Post#2269926
Next project has been decided. I want to cure the rust issues with my 55. I would like to do the work myself but need direction and tips. I'm in the planning stages only right now.
inside the car, along the door sills on both sides has some pretty good size holes rusted through. I would say roughly from the edge inboard about 10 inches. It runs from the toe board back to the front edge of the rear seat.
The trunk is mainly rusted around the gas tank bolts and the tail pan.
I have plans to replace the complete trunk floor and braces and the tail pan.
On the interior is where I need the help. Should I replace the whole floor or just the rusted out spots? Does a company offer replacement floor that run all the way down both sides?
Can one install a complete interior floor with new braces already welded together while the body is on the chassis?
How have you guys out there gone about doing this?
I have never removed a body from the chassis but have no problems figuring it out. I would like to know if anyone has replaced complete floors while they were attached.
Thanks for any input. I am also interested in any study materials that give guidance in this particular process.
Brad
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Doc Fillem
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Posts: 72
Reg: 04-17-12
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09-15-12 06:18 PM - Post#2270006
In response to airbournein2001
If the majority of the floor is solid you won't gain anything by replacing the entire thing.
I would work on one small area at a time. Get a catalog that shows pictures of the pieces you need to replace. Order the pieces. Pick a place to start and decide if the body will need to be braced or supported when you cut out the rusty area. Cut out the rusty area until you get to solid metal. Weld in the new piece being careful to control warpage. Weld small areas at a time and skip around so the heat is not concentrated in one area too long. Spend extra time in fitting the new pieces to the area to be patched so you don't have large gaps to fill as that puts a lot heat in that area and it can cause it to warp. Warpage is bad! Take your time and don't try to do the whole thing all at once. If I can do it, anybody can. Good luck!
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56sedandelivery
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2561
Age: 61
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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09-15-12 11:27 PM - Post#2270066
In response to Doc Fillem
It really sounds to me like the floor is too far gone to repair in sections; and there are complete floors with braces available. I've heard the easiest way to do the complete floor, is to pull the body, set the new floor on the chassis bolted down, remove the old floor from the car, and set the body back down onto the new floor/chassis, and weld it to the body. The body usually needs to be braced to prevent twisting/flexing. There are also complete floor "halves", right and left sides, that overlap in the middle along the trans/driveline hump. E-Bay is a good place to see what's available, and costs involved. Same with the trunk floor, sections or complete trunk pan floors are available. I was going to do a complete floor on a 57 Delivery, former Junior Stock drag car I had, but sold the car to complete other projects. Replacing sections is probably easier, but a complete floor, with all the braces, takes care of all the weak areas at once. The complete floors also include the inner rockers, that also tend to rot out along with the rest of the floor/braces. Butch/56sedandelivery.
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farmermv
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9
Reg: 09-18-11
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09-16-12 02:40 AM - Post#2270069
In response to airbournein2001
I'd recommend removing the rust before ordering the replacement metal. You may need more or less than you originally thought. Don't tear up the floor braces. The repops replace the ends and don't go all the way across.
I replaced the entire passenger compartment and braces on my 1960 impala with the frame on by cutting the floor into two pieces and doing one side at a time. I left a strip or the original floor about 3 inches wide down the middle.
As you remove the rot you will start to see a way forward.
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airbournein2001
Forum Newbie
Posts: 67
Loc: central ms
Reg: 06-28-12
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09-16-12 06:36 AM - Post#2270111
In response to farmermv
awesome responses guys. Seems like everyone has seen and done things differently. That's actually good news to me, meaning there are several ways to get this job done.
I might get the car on a lift to see what it looks like from the underside. I'm thinking the majority of the weakness and rot is along the outboard sides of the body. I would say a 10" strip all the way down is where it is bad. From the center of the transmission tunnel moving outward to the doors is pretty solid....until you get within the 10-12" of the doors. I believe the braces are still solid, but will need closer inspection.
I'm pretty anxious to drive the car. It's been out of commission during the wire harness install. Don't know if my patience can hold up for another long project without some fun time.
What would you guys think would be a good estimate for the time involved in getting the floors installed?
Would it be a good idea to undercoat both sides of the new floor before installing and then touching up around the welds? I'm thinking of using some of the bed liner material and then painting that to match the color of the car when it comes time for body and paint
Thanks again.
Brad
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