iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 84
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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08-11-12 08:33 AM - Post#2258097
Was driving my 56 the other day and got stuck in bumper to bumper traffic on the freeway. It was hot as hell (over 100) and my temp started climbing. Got to about 3/4 on the stock temp gauge...220 or so on my new gauges. Just then it started to stall and had to be restarted a couple different times. (Although I was also at about 1/8 tank so it may just have been fuel related.) Obviously this is not going to work.
So I started looking around here for some cooling options. I've got an aftermarket AC system installed and a stock radiator in the V8 position. I see most folks have installed a SPAL fan or similar setup on theirs but that is with the radiator in the V6 position.
I'm wondering if it is possible to move mine (although considering the AC is already installed on this might be a pain). If I did try to move it...would I need a new radiator? I'm looking at mine and I dont see how it would mount in the front. There's nothing on the radiator that would allow for bolting on from what I can see. Are there any instructions anywhere that spell out the process? I'm debating if this is even something that would be in my wheelhouse or if I would need to take it to a mechanic. Anyone who is not terribly mechanical ever done it?
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 acardon
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 9454
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
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08-11-12 09:00 AM - Post#2258105
In response to iRiE
Moving the A/C condensor would be the difficult part. Extending the A/C lines would require discharging and recharging the system. They have extender plates the mount to the old mounts and the radiator mounts to the plates farther forward.
I think a better option would be a larger radiator (more cores) in the stock location, and a fan shroud for you mechanical fan.
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 84
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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08-11-12 09:12 AM - Post#2258113
In response to iRiE
Found this procedure...
http://www.classicchevy.com/techarticle/index/vie w...
At least this gives a general idea of the hassle involved. Doesn't look too bad with the right parts ordered I suppose. Still think the AC part is gonna be the biggest pain from what I can tell.
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Edited by iRiE on 08-11-12 09:13 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 84
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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08-11-12 09:14 AM - Post#2258114
In response to acardon
Moving the A/C condensor would be the difficult part...
Yeah...I was thinking that too...Looks like I would need some elbows or something in the lines to send it over to the other side of the support.
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 84
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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08-11-12 11:07 AM - Post#2258129
In response to iRiE
Looks like I have a push fan on the ac condensor in front of the radiator. But it is wired to come on only whenever the AC is turned on. Trouble is whenever I am sitting at a light and the AC is on it drops my idle down to like 600 rpm and it wants to die. So I either have to put it in park or neutral and rev the engine slightly. Can an adjustment to the timing help with this at all?
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mhrreast
Senior Member
Posts: 156
Loc: Chaska Minn.
Reg: 11-10-04
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08-11-12 02:40 PM - Post#2258195
In response to acardon
I would think that radiator shroud would be simple cheapest next step. Putting one on greatly helped my temp gage!
1955 210 Handyman
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 62chevy427
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1499
Loc: laurens sc
Reg: 04-13-06
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08-11-12 05:08 PM - Post#2258240
In response to mhrreast
shrouds,properly installed,work wonders. i would idle it up a tad,too. check the timing to make sure it is not too low.
56 bel air ((since 2002)
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Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1663
Reg: 01-03-07
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08-11-12 06:06 PM - Post#2258264
In response to 62chevy427
Hello;
I'm not clear just what your present set up is but here is what I just did after being sick and tired of the same thing you got!
The (my) radiator is in the 6 cyl. position, it is an aluminum 3 core, I have always had a shroud but It (think) didn't work as well untill I put a fan spacer on to move the fan closer to the radiator and out of the way of the future power steering pump. When I put it back together, I carefully measured my shroud and cut it so the fan was half inn, half out. I also when re filling my radiator (3 gallons) added a cooling helper from Lucas, the stuff was 15 dollars, I might ad a second one to help even more. Now I have 160 while driving and 180 in 105 degree weather.
At 180 degrees, the fuel you have (with ethanol) starts to boil in the carberator, thats what makes your car run (idle) rough!!! In order to rid yourself of this problem, you need to ad a fuel pressure regulator with a return line on it to return hot fuel to the gas tank.
This has helped me get better running temps, I hope it helps you (any of you)keep running smooth and cool!
Bruce
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 57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2476
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
Reg: 11-09-01
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08-11-12 07:33 PM - Post#2258285
In response to iRiE
Cheapest thing to do is add a toggle switch so you can turn the fan on when you see the car getting hot.
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Delray_58
Contributor
Posts: 668
Loc: Scotts Valley, CA
Reg: 03-20-10
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08-12-12 07:47 AM - Post#2258392
In response to Bruces 57
when re filling my radiator (3 gallons) added a cooling helper from Lucas, the stuff was 15 dollars, I might ad a second one to help even more. Now I have 160 while driving and 180 in 105 degree weather.
Mine runs about 10 degrees hot on hot days under certain circumstances. It's not too much to worry about since I live on the coast and I have to worry more about heaters rather than A/C, but I will definitely try the Lucas Super Coolant to see if I can knock the temp down on those occasions. Thanks for the tip! 
'58 Delray 283 3-speed
In the family since new |
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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08-12-12 08:42 AM - Post#2258411
In response to iRiE
Man, I'd start with the simple stuff. If you don't know much about your radiator, take it out, lay it down on the driveway, and blast water through one end. It should come out the other end just as fast. If not, and it shoots back out the inlet, have it cleaned at a radiator shop.
Also, if you have a stock 4-blade fan, upgrade it to 6 blades. My old Derale 6-blade flex fan (with large blades) was supposed to be a short-term fix until I could get a clutch fan setup, but it's been working well for 4 summers now.
Next, I'm not sure how much room there is for a fan shroud with your radiator in the V-8 position, but if you can get one to fit it will help a lot, especially with the fan 50% in / 50% out.
And maybe this should be the first step: Put your thermostat in a pan of water on the cooktop, and then monitor the water temp with a thermometer. A 180 t-stat should start to open around 180, and be full open around 190 or so. And it should open smoothly -- no sudden jumping open at 190. And all t-stats aren't created equal. Here's a picture of a Stewart-modified Robertshaw vs. an inexpensive Motorad. Note how much large the diameter of the opening is on the Stewart/Robertshaw. One of these days I need to take a picture of the others sides, because the difference in the openings is clearer.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 08-12-12 08:47 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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paragon
Member
Posts: 118
Loc: Sonora, California
Reg: 12-11-05
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08-12-12 12:12 PM - Post#2258471
In response to Bruces 57
At 180 degrees, the fuel you have (with ethanol) starts to boil in the carberator, thats what makes your car run (idle) rough!!! In order to rid yourself of this problem, you need to ad a fuel pressure regulator with a return line on it to return hot fuel to the gas tank.
I'm also dealing with a vapor lock issue - next up is the installation of a return line - I suppose that involves a fuel pressure regulator as you mentioned (I'm not a mechanic). (55 Chevy - 350 ZZ4)
My understanding is that this will fully address the vapor lock issue - is that correct?
Also, the return line doesn't lower the engine temperature - mine gets to around 206 on a hot day - would installing a 160 thermostat have any impact?
Edited by paragon on 08-12-12 12:15 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1865
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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08-12-12 01:39 PM - Post#2258503
In response to paragon
My 'Widow (BW tribute car) with a Fulie 283 seems to be vunerable to vapor lock after shutting the car down briefly (10-15 minutes). What I suspect is happening is the brass spider and copper lines are heat-sinking without fuel moving through them when the car is shut down.
The best I can do for now is carry a spray bottle full of water to spray the spider and lines, along with a few rags and gallon water jugs to put wet rags over the fuel pump as well. A PITA, but seems to work after 10-15 minutes.
My next thing to try is Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas (4-oz. per 8 gallons) to attempt to raise the vaporization point of the fuel. Cheap enough NOT to give it a try, while still using 89 fuel. I've herd some Corvette guys with F.I. add a quart of diesel fuel to a tank of gas to raise the boiling point - would rather not try that.
I would make or buy a aluminum heat shield for under the carb (between carb and intake) and also look at how close the exhaust pipe is to the frame, as I'm betting the fuel line on most of our cars still have the line INSIDE THE FRAME! Since the Dual-Quad and Fulie cars had factory dual exhaust, the factory ran the lines OUTSIDE THE FRAME. SOOOOOOOOO, I'm thinking about using header wrap from the manifolds back to the mufflers, or some way to insulate the fuel line. I'll see how the MMO works first!
NOT A DAMN THING WE CAN DO ABOUT THE GAS.  So, it's up to us to cut-n-try to see what works to combat vapor lock. Try the CHEAPEST, EASYIST THINGS FIRST!!! Report back here as Bruce has with what YOU have tried!
We know what works for Bruce - GOOD JOB!!!
NO, stay with at least a 180* thermostat. Most newer cars use a 195*. 206 is NOT in a danger zone, but a shroud will help. I need to make one for the 'Widow, just a hoop connected to the core support.
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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Edited by 6-bangertim on 08-12-12 01:52 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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paragon
Member
Posts: 118
Loc: Sonora, California
Reg: 12-11-05
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08-12-12 02:13 PM - Post#2258515
In response to 6-bangertim
Thanks for the input....hmmmmmm aluminum heat shield sounds like a great idea.
I'm thinking that I'm simply used to seeing 108-185 temps....so just addressing the vapor lock issue is the goal....it's just simply really hot in CA now (is you must know in Southern CA!
Edited by paragon on 08-12-12 02:16 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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08-12-12 06:43 PM - Post#2258621
In response to Bruces 57
At 180 degrees, the fuel you have (with ethanol) starts to boil in the carberator, thats what makes your car run (idle) rough!!! In order to rid yourself of this problem, you need to ad a fuel pressure regulator with a return line on it to return hot fuel to the gas tank.
This has helped me get better running temps, I hope it helps you (any of you)keep running smooth and cool!
Bruce
Bruce,
I'd be interested in a seeing a diagram or pictures of how you did the return line plumbing.
Also, FYI, a 160 degree coolant temp is too low to get rid of moisture in the crankcase. And combustion is more efficient at 185-195.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 08-12-12 06:49 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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