adem
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08-06-12 07:25 AM - Post#2256316
I just did a complete rewire and 12v conversion. Its definitely been a steep learning curve for me but I think I have basically done everything right for the most part. But its not starting..
Starter motor turns over (with much more enthusiasm than it used to)
Headlights turn on (should parking lights turn off when headlights come on ?)
dash lights up
tail lights turn on (though no license plate lights, not sure why)
but no matter what position the ignition switch is in I dont get any reaction from the gauges(except for oil pressure of course), and I imagine the issue that is causing this is probably the same one that causing it not to start.
Any ideas of where my wiring may be wrong ?
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 2blu52
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08-06-12 07:52 AM - Post#2256323
In response to adem
If th eengine is not running you should not see a reaction in the oil guage as it reads directly from the engine. The Amp guage should show no discharge with key on but nothing else. The license plate light may just be a bad bulb, have you checked that.
No start condition normally results from no spark so check power to the coil, then to the points, to the spark plug towers. Did you install a resistor or a 12V resitor coil? If not the condensor may be faulty. I am assuming of course that you are getting fuel to the cylinders.
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cederholm
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08-06-12 09:18 AM - Post#2256369
In response to 2blu52
Without a wiring diagram it will be hard for us to diagnose the problem, but with your multimeter in hand you should be able to backtrack the problem.
I bet your coil isn't getting power so I would start there. With the key in the run position just for power at the (+) terminal on the coil. I suspect you wont have power in which case follow that line back to the next junction, most likely the ignition switch. Check for power there. Keep going like this until you get power then look for the short.
Keep us posted,
Carl
Carl E. Cederholm
Brooklyn NYC
'53 Deluxe MoreDoor, triPPPle Rochesters, Fenton exhaust, dual Porter mufflers, 3" drop, 12v, and Offenhauser shinny bits! |
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 Keith_Knox
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08-06-12 11:05 AM - Post#2256403
In response to adem
Did you buy a harness or do your own? If you bought one who is the manufacturer?
I just rewired my 48 with a YnZ harness.
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010.
1996 Chevy Monte Carlo
2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab
2013 F150 Crew Cab |
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patgizz
Senior Moderator Member
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08-06-12 02:01 PM - Post#2256445
In response to Keith_Knox
time to invest in a multimeter if you do not already have one. then start testing for power with key on at places like the ignition coil.
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adem
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08-06-12 08:20 PM - Post#2256602
In response to patgizz
I have a multimeter because I knew I would need one for this at some stage. Ive never used one before, could someone tell me what setting it should be on (200 ohms?) and exactly how and what I should be checking, and what I should be looking for on the readout ?
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adem
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08-06-12 08:29 PM - Post#2256611
In response to adem
I should add the the coils have an external ballast resistor
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 bobg1951chevy
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08-06-12 08:50 PM - Post#2256619
In response to Keith_Knox
Did you buy a harness or do your own? If you bought one who is the manufacturer?
I just rewired my 48 with a YnZ harness.
Keith ...my 51 can be put back to stock rather easily. That being said, I understand the YNZ is the "look alike" to the factory wiring? How did you find YNZ wiring to work with?
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adem
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08-06-12 08:54 PM - Post#2256620
In response to bobg1951chevy
forgot to mention I used a 12 circuit EZ Wiring harness
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adem
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08-06-12 10:01 PM - Post#2256640
In response to adem
additional info
starter turns over
headlights/dashlights/tai lights work
horn works
But
no spark when I check the plugs against the block
also the starter button still works when the key is in the "off" position
None of the dash gauges react when ignition is turned on
The ignition switch has nothing connected to the lower terminal (as per wiring diagram) but there was a wire on there when I pulled it out (not sure where it went it was already cut. The 2nd terminal is connected directly to the BAT on the alternator (used to be voltage regulator) and the 3rd terminal is connected to the positive on the coil, DA plug on the alternator and gas gauge.
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Keith_Knox
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08-06-12 10:05 PM - Post#2256641
In response to bobg1951chevy
I was very apprehensive about doing my own rewire, but it went very smoothly. The instructions were very good. Had a couple of questions and called them and they told me what to do and it was easy fix.
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010.
1996 Chevy Monte Carlo
2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab
2013 F150 Crew Cab |
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adem
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Loc: Australia
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08-06-12 10:37 PM - Post#2256644
In response to Keith_Knox
just noticed that the fuse on the BAT wire coming from the alternator and going to the ignition switch is blown. Any idea what would cause that ? Im guessing if I just replace it its just going to blow again ?
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adem
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08-07-12 02:02 AM - Post#2256666
In response to adem
Just replaced the fuse and it seems fine, I think the fuse was blown from the previous wiring (original, really bad, frayed everywhere and shorted so the car wouldnt start) thats why I did the rewiring. But just never checked that fuse.
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cederholm
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08-07-12 07:28 AM - Post#2256724
In response to adem
I have a multimeter because I knew I would need one for this at some stage. Ive never used one before, could someone tell me what setting it should be on (200 ohms?) and exactly how and what I should be checking, and what I should be looking for on the readout ?
That blown fuse might be your issue. Did it start after? ...and keep an eye on it.
The multimeter is named that because you can test a LOT of stuff with it. For general automotive use you'll use two setting to test for two different things.
1) DC voltage - set you meter to 20v DC and use the meter to test for power in a circuit. You power should be 10-12 with the car off or higher with the car running.
2) resistance - measured in Ohms. - Unless your checking for a specific resistance, say at the coil resister, the Ohm setting isn't that important. I use the Ohm meter to check for an open (or short) circuit. Great for checking your grounds. A closed, or good, circuit will show 0 or close to 0 resistance on the meter. To test what I'm saying, grab a short piece of wire and with your meter set to Ohm, touch the leads to both sides of the wire. You should get a 0 reading. Now pull one of the leads off and watch the gauge jump.
Hope this helps a little.
Carl
Carl E. Cederholm
Brooklyn NYC
'53 Deluxe MoreDoor, triPPPle Rochesters, Fenton exhaust, dual Porter mufflers, 3" drop, 12v, and Offenhauser shinny bits! |
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adem
Forum Newbie
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Loc: Australia
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08-09-12 02:35 AM - Post#2257402
In response to cederholm
Thanks so much for the help Carl
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