paragon
Member
Posts: 118

Loc: Sonora, California
Reg: 12-11-05
|
08-05-12 11:49 AM - Post#2256006
I'm still faced with a vapor lock issue with gas not getting to the carb after my 55 (350-ZZ4) heats up to about 195.
I currently have a mechanical fuel pump - thinking that perhaps it's become weak - needs to be replaced or perhaps I should consider switching to an electric fuel pump - taking the fuel pump out of the engine area, back to the gas tank area.
I have several mechanics providing input on this - but, each one has a different opinion as to what the problem may be. Vapor locking just started this summer after owning the car for two prior summers with no problems.
One mechanic said it was the distributor - I had that replaced. One said it was the gas line (it was touching the manifold) - had that re-routed. Now, a mechanic is stating that more air is needed to cool things down - thinks that holes should be drilled on each side of the fan, perhaps even another fan installed!
The thing is - it was just fine for two years, now it vapor locks every time I take it out.
Any input would be appreciated.
Oh, I'm an owner/driver not a mechanic.
Thanks in advance.
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
acardon
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 9455

Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
|
08-05-12 12:23 PM - Post#2256028
In response to paragon
One of your earlier post said you had an electric fuel pump???
After it shuts off and you wait to restart it, what does it take to restart? Do you have to crank on it a while before it starts, or does it start right up?
Try running it with the gas cap loose. A improperly vented gas tank can create a vacuum in the tank and prevent the pump from pulling gas.
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
|
|
paragon
Member
Posts: 118

Loc: Sonora, California
Reg: 12-11-05
|
08-05-12 01:55 PM - Post#2256058
In response to acardon
I have a mechanical fuel pump.
The scenario - drive the car for about an hour - it shuts down while driving - no sputtering - just shuts down. Trying to re-start doesn't work for about one hour - after an hour it starts right up as if nothing happened.
Another clue - the last time this happened a mechanic stopped by and determined that there was no gas getting to the carb.
Thanks for the reply.
|
OldDad
Senior Member
Posts: 1849

Age: 69
Loc: The Great NorthWest
Reg: 06-06-04
|
08-05-12 02:18 PM - Post#2256070
In response to acardon
One of your earlier post said you had an electric fuel pump???
After it shuts off and you wait to restart it, what does it take to restart? Do you have to crank on it a while before it starts, or does it start right up?
Try running it with the gas cap loose. A improperly vented gas tank can create a vacuum in the tank and prevent the pump from pulling gas.
I agree sure sounds like a gas cap problem, have you checked to see what the pump pressure is?
The S.O.B. from the factory...
71 1/2 ton, 64 Chevelle SS, 57 2dr Hardtop, 57 2dr Sedan, 57 Corvette, 52 2dr Hardtop, 52 2dr Sedan, and now a 49 Plymouth Coupe |
|
bobb
Super Senior Member
Posts: 4626

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
|
08-05-12 05:07 PM - Post#2256133
In response to paragon
your gonna need to find a real mechanic. after you run it hot, park it and remove the air cleaner. look down into the carb and see if gas is dripping. keep an eye on it for a few minutes keeping the hood closed and the air cleaner lid on between checks. if that checks out look down into the carb and give it a little gas to see if it squirts.
| 70 L camino 350 all forged,174 baby blower, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails. |
|
Reverand2000
Forum Newbie
Posts: 7
Loc: Cumming, GA
Reg: 08-30-11
|
08-07-12 09:23 AM - Post#2256751
In response to bobb
Have you checked for spark? Over heated coil acts the same.
|
6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1865
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
|
08-07-12 12:45 PM - Post#2256801
In response to Reverand2000
Yup, the coil could be marginal. Pack along a hand towel and some ice water. The wet towel should cool the coil enough to restart in 10 minutes or less. Ask me how I know...
TESTING the fuel pump wouldn't hurt - just to rule it out. Get the repro FACTORY MANUAL and become YOUR OWN BEST MECHANIC!!! Forget about those goofs that wrench on today's garbage and DO NOT HAVE A CLUE ABOUT BASIC CARS!!!
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
|
Edited by 6-bangertim on 08-07-12 12:51 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
swbatt
West Coast Show Support
Posts: 3543

Reg: 03-25-01
|
08-08-12 06:44 AM - Post#2257039
In response to 6-bangertim
I think I'm having the same problem.
What about putting a thicker carb plate underneth, would that help cool it down?
Junior
"Which do I prefer? Chess or sex? It depends on the position." - Spassky |
|
OldDad
Senior Member
Posts: 1849

Age: 69
Loc: The Great NorthWest
Reg: 06-06-04
|
08-08-12 08:30 AM - Post#2257082
In response to bobb
your gonna need to find a real mechanic. after you run it hot, park it and remove the air cleaner. look down into the carb and see if gas is dripping. keep an eye on it for a few minutes keeping the hood closed and the air cleaner lid on between checks. if that checks out look down into the carb and give it a little gas to see if it squirts.
There are a bunch of "real" old mechanics on this site.
The S.O.B. from the factory...
71 1/2 ton, 64 Chevelle SS, 57 2dr Hardtop, 57 2dr Sedan, 57 Corvette, 52 2dr Hardtop, 52 2dr Sedan, and now a 49 Plymouth Coupe |
|
paragon
Member
Posts: 118

Loc: Sonora, California
Reg: 12-11-05
|
09-23-12 02:54 PM - Post#2272624
In response to OldDad
Well, I found a real old mechanic - problem solved!
Replaced the fuel pump with one that allows for the re-routing of excess fuel back to the gas tank, along with creating holes in the sides of the radiator shell to get more air into the engine compartment. Also, installed a piece under the carb to cool it down.
I'm good to go, finally. Thanks for all the help everyone posting here.
|
WagonMan
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1266

Age: 65
Loc: SW Kansas
Reg: 10-26-04
|
09-24-12 10:37 AM - Post#2272969
In response to paragon
I would seriously rethink the holes in the radiator side panels as you want as much as possible of the air to go through the radiator to cool the source of the heat.
More so you need to make sure the air that makes it through the radiator has as clear a path as possible out of the engine compartment.
Charles
57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)
53 Chevy 3100 (bought '96)
-250 I6/TH350 |
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|