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Username Post: Removing rust from sheetmetal        (Topic#285062)
Axelrod 
Senior Member
Posts: 905

Reg: 02-23-04
02-21-15 01:14 PM - Post#2525079    
    In response to DwayneAB

  • DwayneAB Said:
JGR - are you saying use the filler and primer before using POR?



JGR, did you notice the date on this old thread, lol. In any event since I since I commented on POR a few years back I'll add my two cents once again.

I don't know what you are working on but in my opinion there are better methods and products out there than POR15. POR was developed quite a few years ago as a rust encapsulating system. It is used mostly by hobbyists with little to no technical product knowledge and who are looking for a miracle product with which to coat their rusty frame or under body. I have never run into a professional shop that uses it. Think about it, would you pay a professional to use a short cut rust encapsulating product on your expensive restoration job?

POR is a system and is designed to be used with their metal prep and then top coated with their top coating paint for UV resistance. The topcoat used to be called Chassis Coat but some of the names of their products have changed, so I don't know what they call it today. That said , I used the system on a 4X4 secondary driveshaft some years back and it looked good and held up well. It wasn't cheap though, all the stuff included, and was kind of a hassle to use. Messy and nearly impossible to clean if you get any on you. Like I said before, there are better systems out there for those concerned with quality. Steve (with the Nova) has the best advice. Prep is everything and the rust has to be destroyed,....not encapsulated.



 




garys 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28
garys
Loc: Fort Nelson, British Colu...
Reg: 11-27-14
02-27-15 04:16 PM - Post#2526744    
    In response to DwayneAB

I bought a nice little sandblasting unit with a 10 gallon holding tank for under $200 and use fine ground glass to blast with and it works great. When used on body panels it will take off rust and old bondo and not warp the panels and it completely cleans the rust and grime off of a frame in no time at all. Works much better than the soda I used years ago...the only trouble with the soda is you MUST make sure ALL of the soda is removed/rinsed off before you prime the metal...and that was always very difficult to do. Another nice thing about the crushed glass is that it's environmentally friendly and when you do it outside on your driveway or the grass in front of your shop you can just leave it...basically it's just fine sand again. If you use it in an enclosed space you can easily reuse it once you've swept it up and screened it through a fine mesh. I heard somebody refer to it as the "New Age sand blast medium"...the only downside is you need to completely cover your body in hooded paper overalls and wear proper safety glasses and respirator...which you should be doing anyways. The crushed glass comes in fine, medium and coarse grades...fine for body panels and medium for frames and misc. parts...I have no idea why somebody would want to use the coarse material...

Gary S.
1954 Pontiac Sedan Delivery
1957 Chevy 150 Coupe


 
Bel Air kiwi 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4111
Bel Air kiwi
Loc: New Zealand
Reg: 04-24-14
09-29-16 07:01 PM - Post#2654094    
    In response to garys

Hi Gary, I am with you on the Glass bead media blasting. I use it because I was given a cabinet by an Auto electrician who used it on all the alloy bodies of alternators etc. Alloy doesn't like sand.
My blaster cabinet has a dust and recirculating drum. The big thing I do is haul the parts out using surgical gloves and dust blow them, wipe with prepsol and prime then there and then. No Time delay, No rust.
My Pro panel guy uses paint strippers and abrasives to remove surface stuff but has a covered nozzle mini sand blaster for seam and roof gutter cleaning. He won't stop till the rust has gone. And he doesn't leave it exposed.
It is not easy to get all of the phosphoric acid out or salts from soda blasting or dip strip chemicals.
Sooner or later they will come back to haunt you.
An alternate to sand or glass used back in the day was ground nut shells.
Prep is everything, if you leave neutralized rust you still have rust.
Cheers Kiwi

48 3100 RHD, 51 Deluxe 4DR RHD, 51 Bel Air parts car, 52 Bel Air P-Glide LHD. Others 23T, 32 Tudor, 58 Edsel pacer 4DR HDT, 79 F250 351C RHD. 69,70,82 Capri. No mobile, no TV, and no Jap cars.

And when it was laid to waste, they called it peace.


 




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