 SS_in_Seattle
"4th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 1391
Reg: 05-08-03
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08-02-12 01:48 PM - Post#2255010
I recieved a request for a section of the roof, from a '66 Caprice I have, and I'm wondering if it would be better (safer) to replace just the portion of the roof that was removed for the 80's glass sunroof, or should a larger section on the recipient car be replaced?
I'd be more than happy to give this guy the whole roof, if that's what it takes, I just want to make sure that I cut off enough to make the recipient car safe and aesthetically pleasing.
Thanks Guys,
Greg
1965 Impala SS L78
1966 Impala SS Convertible
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maddjeff
Forum Newbie
Posts: 79
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08-02-12 02:17 PM - Post#2255025
In response to SS_in_Seattle
It's ok, you can say it's me... 
And a great question as I've been thinking about exactly how to do this as well. Let me fill in the info so everyone knows what I'm doing.
The only really bonehead thing I did to this car when I first bought it at 17 was chop a hole in the perfect roof for a sunroof. I know, like I said before, I would love to go back in time and kick my 17 year old self in the censored.  My dad tried to talk me out of it at the time but I was adamant that I wanted it in. So now I have to clean up the mess I made in '83.
The way I was thinking about approaching it was marking the centerline of a donor car on the inside of the roof, and another line some predetermined distance back from the windshield. Using this as an alignment reference, laying the cut piece of the donor roof on top of the car over the existing sunroof hole. Once everything is lined up, trace the outline of the hole onto the donor piece, cut and graft into the car.
Sound like a good plan? Or is there a better way to approach this? Should I be thinking bigger, as in actually cutting more of the existing roof out and tying it in a different way? Seems like from a structural standpoint, just filling the existing hole would make more sense, but please chime in if there is a better way to approach this.
Here's a pic from the inside. I have the hood resting on the roof at the moment so I'll get a better pic from the top later.
Edited by maddjeff on 08-02-12 02:33 PM. Reason for edit: Added pic
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55boti
Senior Member
Posts: 409
Loc: Toon Town, Saskatchewan, ...
Reg: 11-17-04
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08-02-12 02:28 PM - Post#2255031
In response to maddjeff
I'd be tempted to repair the hole and put a vinyl roof on it. Caprices usually had them anyway.
1955 210 2dr post
1957 BA 4dr
1957 150 4dr
1957 150 2dr project
1959 Biscayne
1967 Impala 2dr hardtop
1976 Silverado
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dadstoy
Frequent Contributor
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Loc: Lewisburg Ohio
Reg: 04-01-07
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08-02-12 02:34 PM - Post#2255032
In response to maddjeff
I think that just welding the hole shut with a filler piece will work, but only for a little while. After the repair gets some age on it you will see a hairline crack reappear where the roof was repaired. The better solution will be to re skin the roof with one large piece like GM did when they built the car. Lots more work, but better results.
Larry.
1965 Impala convertible 396
1965 Impala 9 pass wagon 283
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1592
Reg: 12-29-02
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08-02-12 05:05 PM - Post#2255086
In response to SS_in_Seattle
I'd Replace the whole roof if I had access to another good one.
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jumbojim
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 313
Age: 66
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 09-25-11
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08-02-12 06:43 PM - Post#2255126
In response to 65_Impala
I would find a piece of roof from another car (not a classic Chev.) that matches the contour and shape from the wrecking yard. Weld this piece in. If your happy, your done, if not you still have the option of of vinyl, or a reskin from a donor car.
I have seen a sun roof filled with a patch. It was not good without a vinyl roof over the top, so the owner decided on a full reskin. Jim
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helrazr3
Member
Posts: 380
Loc: chelsea mass.
Reg: 06-15-04
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08-02-12 06:49 PM - Post#2255130
In response to jumbojim
just steal a street sign and cut it in....  don't laugh i've seen it done!!!!
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62sedan
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3328
Age: 62
Loc: North Dallas area
Reg: 08-12-02
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08-02-12 06:54 PM - Post#2255131
In response to helrazr3
just steal a street sign and cut it in.... don't laugh i've seen it done!!!!
Won't work. Current street signs are made of aluminum. 
Besides..... there's the legal aspect of your suggestion. 
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SS_in_Seattle
"4th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 1391
Reg: 05-08-03
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08-02-12 08:10 PM - Post#2255160
In response to jumbojim
Fortunately Jim, I happen to have a '66 Caprice that's already been gutted & stripped, but it has a perfect roof and Jeff just has to drive up I-5 and pick it up. He's guaranteed a strong roof that Chevrolet engineered to fit.
Greg
1965 Impala SS L78
1966 Impala SS Convertible
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helrazr3
Member
Posts: 380
Loc: chelsea mass.
Reg: 06-15-04
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08-02-12 08:44 PM - Post#2255178
In response to 62sedan
well you know if it just (HAPPENS) to be lying on the side of the road or in the bushes....... 
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leon phelps
Valued Contributor
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Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
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08-02-12 09:12 PM - Post#2255189
In response to helrazr3
aluminum would work fine with panel bonding adhesive.
on the back of street signs are stickers telling you who paid for the sign, no sticker....just saying. remember I got the strut for my rotisserie from street signs that were knocked down.
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slammed1
Contributor
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08-02-12 10:06 PM - Post#2255209
In response to leon phelps
Any roof repair done on the top section has to be done just right and even then no quarantees that after a few seasons the repair cant be seen.
Its much better as others said to do a complete roof skin like the factory done.
You could always add a big sliding rag top like the old VW bugs had.Could tell everyone was a very rare factory option. 
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maddjeff
Forum Newbie
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Age: 46
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Reg: 07-07-12
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08-02-12 11:53 PM - Post#2255219
In response to slammed1
So if we were to do a full roof skin, where should we cut the roof at? As close to the roof rails and front windshield as possible?
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jumbojim
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 313
Age: 66
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 09-25-11
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08-03-12 04:10 AM - Post#2255237
In response to SS_in_Seattle
I wouldn't cut a piece from a good Chevy roof. As you have a good roof, replacing the whole part would be my first option as I have seen that a patch doesn't work unless the panel job is 100%.
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dadstoy
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1056
Age: 59
Loc: Lewisburg Ohio
Reg: 04-01-07
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08-03-12 05:30 AM - Post#2255254
In response to jumbojim
Check out this video of a roof replacement on a Cougar. I know its a Ford but the principal is the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDyBd9Wx1vk
Larry.
1965 Impala convertible 396
1965 Impala 9 pass wagon 283
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dave smith
Senior Member
Posts: 1981
Loc: Lancashire, England
Reg: 12-30-03
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08-03-12 05:58 AM - Post#2255263
In response to dadstoy
I would replace the whole roof skin, as you have one available, it will be dificult to avoid warping a panel like that when welding if you just do a patch, and could be hard to do a repair that is invisible when it's painted
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helrazr3
Member
Posts: 380
Loc: chelsea mass.
Reg: 06-15-04
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08-03-12 06:21 AM - Post#2255270
In response to dadstoy
that was a cool video i wish i had my own salvage yard full of impalas.......
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1592
Reg: 12-29-02
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08-03-12 06:30 AM - Post#2255274
In response to maddjeff
No, not close to the windshield or drip rails. You pull the front and rear windows and seperate it at the pinch welds. You also seperate the skin from the drip rails.
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maddjeff
Forum Newbie
Posts: 79
Age: 46
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Reg: 07-07-12
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08-03-12 09:13 AM - Post#2255308
In response to 65_Impala
Shoot, this is a bigger deal than I had hoped. I really thought I would be able to get by with a patch as it's not a huge hole, but it sounds like there may be issues later. I see the wisdom in taking the entire roof skin and putting it in in one piece, as the patch would be at eye level and nothing short of perfection is going to be obvious.
Larry, thanks for the link to the Youtube vid, it really shows what's involved. I could handle the job I think, just never done a full skin replacement before. That spot weld drill bit they were using in the vid would make things pretty easy.
Let me get some opinions from a couple body guys I know as well and then I'll decide how to proceed. Greg, I'll touch base with you in PM. 
BTW, does anyone know exactly where the roof skin joints are located on the caprice? Specifically, where do they patch in on the upper rear sides between the side glass and the rear window? I'll see it when I pull the headliner, but I wasn't planning on doing that yet.
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nicke
Contributor
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Reg: 01-06-12
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08-03-12 09:32 AM - Post#2255315
In response to maddjeff
I believe the factory seam is in the same area as the impala which would be where the sail panel meets the roof in the back. I bet if you sanded and looked really closely, you could tell. Also, it might be filled with lead from the factory, unless GM switched tactics from 65. In this case, you could use a small torch to melt the lead away which would leave the metal in tact, as the lead has a lower melting point. (I was blown away when my friend Derek did this trick on a seam we were fixing on my 65)
-Nick
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leon phelps
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3018
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
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08-03-12 10:58 AM - Post#2255349
In response to nicke
may be easier to get a larger moon roof and go from there?
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inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1394
Loc: Arizona desert
Reg: 03-10-04
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08-04-12 04:09 PM - Post#2255735
In response to leon phelps
Here's a roof with a welded in centerpiece. When these were made, 1932, most all cars had a cloth roof center. A good metal men can put in a section & it'll be fine. This particular one was done with gas torch & hammer welding.
Doug
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dave smith
Senior Member
Posts: 1981
Loc: Lancashire, England
Reg: 12-30-03
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08-05-12 04:15 AM - Post#2255873
In response to inline0_0
Here's a roof with a welded in centerpiece. When these were made, 1932, most all cars had a cloth roof center. A good metal men can put in a section & it'll be fine. This particular one was done with gas torch & hammer welding.
Doug
A good body man can put in a section and make it invisible, but I bet if he had access to a whole roof he'd use it
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SS_in_Seattle
"4th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 1391
Reg: 05-08-03
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08-05-12 03:17 PM - Post#2256098
In response to nicke
I believe the factory seam is in the same area as the impala which would be where the sail panel meets the roof in the back. I bet if you sanded and looked really closely, you could tell. Also, it might be filled with lead from the factory, unless GM switched tactics from 65. In this case, you could use a small torch to melt the lead away which would leave the metal in tact, as the lead has a lower melting point. (I was blown away when my friend Derek did this trick on a seam we were fixing on my 65)
-Nick
OK Nick,
The safety geek in me has to recommend anyone who does this should wear a P100 respirator (the P100 is a rating that filters out 99.7% of all particulte[s] .3 micrometers & larger), even though lead, like antifreeze tastes good, it's really bad for you.
Greg
1965 Impala SS L78
1966 Impala SS Convertible
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 578
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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08-05-12 09:23 PM - Post#2256234
In response to SS_in_Seattle
Good advise Greg!
I am thinking the giant mask/respirator that Derek had me wear was exactly that!
-Nick
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Bel_AirAmerica
Senior Member
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Age: 56
Loc: Evansville,Ind.U.S.A.
Reg: 05-09-02
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08-06-12 01:21 PM - Post#2256431
In response to SS_in_Seattle
Just tell him he needs to chop the top and just change the whole roof.Oh yeah,you have to slam it also!
Rick
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 WagonMan
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1265
Age: 65
Loc: SW Kansas
Reg: 10-26-04
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08-06-12 03:00 PM - Post#2256460
In response to SS_in_Seattle
I believe the factory seam is in the same area as the impala which would be where the sail panel meets the roof in the back. I bet if you sanded and looked really closely, you could tell. Also, it might be filled with lead from the factory, unless GM switched tactics from 65. In this case, you could use a small torch to melt the lead away which would leave the metal in tact, as the lead has a lower melting point. (I was blown away when my friend Derek did this trick on a seam we were fixing on my 65)
-Nick
OK Nick,
The safety geek in me has to recommend anyone who does this should wear a P100 respirator (the P100 is a rating that filters out 99.7% of all particulte[s] .3 micrometers & larger), even though lead, like antifreeze tastes good, it's really bad for you.
Greg
Wow, if it was that bad, Bill Hines,the master leader, should have been dead decades ago what with all the lead fumes and his stogies.
Seriously though, be safe.
Charles
57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
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