 george88gta
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07-29-12 01:55 PM - Post#2253397
Getting ready to install a rear shock mounting bar on the 55 ragtop. I purchased the bar a while back. The plan at that time was completely stock, since then it has evovled in to a resto-mod. I have lowered the front end and the rear with modified springs, 2 inch drop. I read that the straight bar will hit the pumpkin on a lowered car and I should get a bar modified for a lowered car. Anyone have experience with this?
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acardon
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07-29-12 02:49 PM - Post#2253420
In response to george88gta
A friends Nomad had a straight bar and the rear end would bang the crossmember on big bumps. He ordered one for his 2 piece frame and it was 3/4" too long. We couldn't spread the frame that much without elongating the body mount holes. We ended up welding an offset in the straight bar. The one piece and 2 piece frames are a different width but this was supposed to be the correct bar for his frame.
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
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george88gta
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07-29-12 03:07 PM - Post#2253428
In response to acardon
Don, the length is correct for my car. The frame is almost 36" wide and the bar is exactly 36", so the fit should be OK. Just concerned that they now have a new style for lowered cars, that has the bar modified so that it extends forward to clear the pumpkin. Starting to look like a new bar is required.
Edited by george88gta on 07-29-12 03:08 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 asbicca
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07-29-12 08:15 PM - Post#2253520
In response to george88gta
If the bar is designed correctly and installed in the right location, it should not hit the rear end. Look at the Earle Williams rear shock bars. I have one on my chassis and for it to hit the rear end, the lower part of the frame would almost have to be on the ground. There is between 7 and 7 1/2 inches between the edge of the bar and where it would hit the rear end. That is with 3inch lowering springs and 2 inch lowering blocks. Even with all the weight of the body and interior there will still be close to 3 1/2" of clearance.
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 Highlander1
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07-30-12 05:24 AM - Post#2253609
In response to asbicca
Art, nice looking setup.
Looks like you are using Monroematic shocks. What model/PN? As my rear is also lowered, I am wondering if other than stock fitment shock should be used.
I also have a concen similar to George's. The shock brackets on the bar are off set and if the bar is mounted closest to the rear axle (and thus the brackets forward of the bar) the chance of interference is greater than if the bar is mounted with the brackets to the rear (as in your case). However, this requires mounting the bar much lower on the frame rail and thus reducing shock travel (especially when lowering blocks are also used). I have seen shock bars modified with an offset in the middle to address the carrier housing issue.
Thanks! Don
Edited by Highlander1 on 07-30-12 05:35 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 Big T
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07-30-12 10:50 AM - Post#2253730
In response to george88gta
I have a CPP on my stock height and if fits forward of the the axial as well.
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 cnbell
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07-30-12 11:04 AM - Post#2253736
In response to Big T
I also have a CPP on mine, 2 &1/2" lowered, never had a problem hitting the bar.
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george88gta
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07-30-12 01:26 PM - Post#2253803
In response to cnbell
I sent an email to Ecklers ( where I purchased the springs and shock mount) lets see what they say.
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Rick_L
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07-30-12 03:14 PM - Post#2253849
In response to asbicca
You can certainly see where if asbicca's bar was behind the shocks, it would be very close to being directly above the axle housing and much closer to it.
George, is your bar in front of the shocks or behind? If it's behind, simply mounting it in front may fix your problem.
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george88gta
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07-30-12 03:27 PM - Post#2253857
In response to Rick_L
Rick, it isnt installed yet. Thought I would ask first then do the install.
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Rick_L
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07-30-12 05:26 PM - Post#2253910
In response to george88gta
Well, put it a different way, is that going to make it good?
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asbicca
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-30-12 05:31 PM - Post#2253913
In response to george88gta
I don't recall what p/n I used for the rear shocks, but it is similar to the one that Earle Williams recommends for this shock bar, but they are shorter than his.
Call Earl and talk to him about your concerns. He has sold a lot of these bars, both for stock style shocks and this one which is designed for wagons but can be used on any of the cars. In my opinion it is the strongest one out there as you use a hole saw to cut the frame and slip the bar in and then weld it in. If you have a bare frame you could even raise it up so it is just below the level of the floor pan and then weld it in giving you even more clearance. But I don't think it is necessary.
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Pistol
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07-30-12 05:44 PM - Post#2253925
In response to asbicca
My car sits pretty low and I used the Williams station wagon one with monroe 31094, I have np
Pete
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Rick_L
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07-30-12 07:29 PM - Post#2253992
In response to Pistol
The only real difference is that the wagon shocks are eyes on both ends and the rest are eye at the bottom and stud at the top. That just means that the wagon shock crossmember has horizontal studs, and the sedan/ht/conv crossmember has a bracket fo the shock stud.
You can mount the crossmember with the studs/brackets to the rear (probably best for most), or with them to the front.
This only applies to the shock crossmembers that are the style that Earle Williams sells. There are others out there that look like a ladder, and the bracket is between two square tubes. That style has no front or back.
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asbicca
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07-30-12 07:59 PM - Post#2254013
In response to Pistol
Found my info on the rear shocks. I have the same shock as Pistol p/n 31094
Fully extended 19.5"
Compressed 12"
Travel 7"
If you go to Monroe's web site they have a list of all their shocks. Look for ones that have L1 for both ends, if you have the Williams shock bar for eye type shocks. There are several to choose from depending on your at rest ride height.
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george88gta
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07-31-12 09:12 AM - Post#2254151
In response to Rick_L
You can certainly see where if asbicca's bar was behind the shocks, it would be very close to being directly above the axle housing and much closer to it.
George, is your bar in front of the shocks or behind? If it's behind, simply mounting it in front may fix your problem.
Rick, if I follow the instructions ( not very manly), the bar would be behind the shocks. Wonder if I can just reverse the bar and have the shocks in front and still be in proper alignment? Concern would be that I would be moving the bar forward and slightly down on the arch of the frame. The Ecklers bar is slightly different from the one in asbicca's pics. The bar I have has two tabs (one on each side) for the top portion of the stock shock (threaded stud, not a thru hole as pictured) to mount thru. Still no response from Ecklers, guess they are busy. Here is a link to the part I have http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-shock-bar-rear- r...
Edited by george88gta on 07-31-12 09:14 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Rick_L
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07-31-12 02:33 PM - Post#2254235
In response to george88gta
Your comment about where you are on the arch is on the money. You should be good if you don't move it down too far.
Your bar has tabs on the ends so that you can bolt it on. asbicca's bar is welded. His has a little more flexibilty in mounting location because of the lack of the tabs.
I'm not sure I'd trust Eckler's to know the answer anyway.
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george88gta
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07-31-12 02:41 PM - Post#2254240
In response to Rick_L
Your comment about where you are on the arch is on the money. You should be good if you don't move it down too far.
Your bar has tabs on the ends so that you can bolt it on. asbicca's bar is welded. His has a little more flexibilty in mounting location because of the lack of the tabs.
I'm not sure I'd trust Eckler's to know the answer anyway.
Yeah, the tabs on the ends make it easier to bolt on. However, I also have tabs for the shocks, not an eye arrangement like asbicca. Concern would be the alignment of the shock if I moved the bar. Heard from Ecklers, first response was it should work, if not buy the modified bar with the bend in it to clear the differential. Guess they really arent sure. I asked them if I could reverse the bar to move the bar in front of the shocks. Waiting for that response. Kind of not wanting to drill a bunch of holes in the frame for trail and error fitting. Maybe I should just crawl under there this weekend and see what fits. Is it OK for the shocks to be vertical or do they have a bit of an angle (front to rear, not left to right).
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Rick_L
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07-31-12 02:55 PM - Post#2254246
In response to george88gta
Ideally the shock is square to the lowering mounting pin that's on the spring plate. Otherwise you distort the rubber bushings in the shock eye a bit.
I think if you just crawl under there and intall the bar with C clamps you'll be able to judge whether it's going to work and what your options for adjustment are.
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george88gta
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07-31-12 03:14 PM - Post#2254249
In response to Rick_L
Ideally the shock is square to the lowering mounting pin that's on the spring plate. Otherwise you distort the rubber bushings in the shock eye a bit.
I think if you just crawl under there and intall the bar with C clamps you'll be able to judge whether it's going to work and what your options for adjustment are.
I think that is the best plan. Time to clean the garage floor and do some under car work. You get spoiled having a lift, but mine is a two post and the suspension will hang. Car is on wheel dollies so that gains me a few inches of clearance. Floor needs to be cleaned anyway.
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Rick_L
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07-31-12 05:14 PM - Post#2254281
In response to george88gta
To each his own, if I had just one lift it would be a two post. But not to worry, I don't have a lift, let alone two.
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george88gta
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08-01-12 12:26 PM - Post#2254563
In response to Rick_L
I like the two post clear floor lift myself, but the drive-on does have a few advantages. Anyway, here is the response from Ecklers. Is it me or does he not understand the concept of shock absorbers, etc.
"You can reverse the bar but you might have problems with the opposite mounting point alignment. There's really no suggested clearance between the bar and the differential since they are both solid pieces and shouldn't flex to hit each other under normal driving conditions or on bumpy terrain etc. Obviously if they are nearly touching something is wrong but if you have at least 1/2' it'd be fine".
Sunday looks good for the experiment, will post what I find.
Edited by george88gta on 08-01-12 12:27 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Rick_L
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08-01-12 02:41 PM - Post#2254601
In response to george88gta
I don't think he understood the concept of the axle moving with repsect to the frame.
Maybe he's a C2 and up specialist.
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Thadd
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08-02-12 08:25 PM - Post#2255168
In response to Rick_L
FWIW, I had 4 leaf springs and 2" blocks on my 55. The shock bar was from Danchuck and was straight across, no bend to clear the third member. I had no interference with the pumpkin.
Oh yeah, I had cut a hunk out of each snubber too (about 2")
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george88gta
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08-05-12 08:58 AM - Post#2255942
In response to Thadd
Looks like the reverse position provides the most clearace. With the bar installed in front of the shocks, it sits well on the frame's arch and is a few inches behind the bump stop bracket (a bit shorter than the snubber mounting bracket). Not going to work lying on my back, so I removed it and will do the final install while I have the body lifted, easier to get a drill in there. On to the next challenge.
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jerry_gardocki
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 08-05-12 06:47 PM - Post#2256172
In response to george88gta
I have the same setup,took awhile to get it right.Eckler's has a shock bar #21-228 that is for lowered cars,works great,also used KYB shocks #21-80 Frt,#21-81 rear.I had QA1 adjustable,but they would not work(too much bounce)so went to the KYB.Have great right(wife can read while traveling).I have about 450HP small block,4spd.car. Good Luck
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Highlander1
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08-05-12 08:35 PM - Post#2256209
In response to george88gta
George, that door in your avitar looks familiar. Don
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george88gta
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08-06-12 05:00 AM - Post#2256287
In response to Highlander1
George, that door in your avitar looks familiar. Don
Don, that is one of my C-5a nose art pics. It is C-5a 68-224 that was stationed at Stewart ANG Base whie I was flying there. She, as well as most of Stewarts birds, is at Davis-Monthan bone yard.
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Highlander1
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08-06-12 05:06 PM - Post#2256520
In response to george88gta
When my daughter was working in GE, and later in school in Scotland, I used to head down to CHS and catch a hop to RMS, and if going to UK then usually a tanker or C21. Spent a lot of time sleeping on the floor of mostly C17s but occassionally flew over backwards in a C5. Starting to get that itch and wondering what the beer will taste like in late Sept....
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george88gta
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08-06-12 05:27 PM - Post#2256530
In response to Highlander1
When my daughter was working in GE, and later in school in Scotland, I used to head down to CHS and catch a hop to RMS, and if going to UK then usually a tanker or C21. Spent a lot of time sleeping on the floor of mostly C17s but occassionally flew over backwards in a C5. Starting to get that itch and wondering what the beer will taste like in late Sept....
Speaking from personal experience, it will taste great. Nothing like a couple of pints of Guiness and a shepards pie at the Smokehouse.
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