Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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07-24-12 08:08 PM - Post#2251866
Guys... I'm sorry to report that after getting my car (1948 fleetline) back from the shop, I drove it less than a mile before it failed to shift properly. I have first year and reverse, and its not possible to get it into 2nd or third. The work the shop did was replacing the rear main seal. Is there anything they could have done to cause this, or is it coincidence. I wanted to ask you all before I go back to the shop and request strongly they fix it. Please let me know asap if you have ideas.... Oh, and I followed the steps in the manual to make sure the adjustments were correct on the steering mast/wheel, etc. I spent about an hour doing that tonight thinking it would correct the issue. It did not.
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 TMURF
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 65
Age: 48
Loc: Lindsay, Ontario, Canada
Reg: 10-14-07
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07-25-12 02:37 AM - Post#2251934
In response to Brian48
Brian
Sure sounds like an adjustment issue. Tom
1948 Chev Fleetmaster 2 door sedan
1963 Corvair PG convertible
1968 Mercury Cougar XR7
1961 Buick Lesabre Convertible
1996 GMC K1500 |
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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07-25-12 04:31 AM - Post#2251945
In response to TMURF
But adjust what? The distance is right from the end of the steering spline to the mast jacket, (1 1/4)it's right from the lower support clamp to the shifting mechanism, (3/4) and I don't really understand where else to check. The only part of the manual I didn't follow/understand was the final adjustment of the distance between the shifting lever and the underside of the steering wheel.
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 479
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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07-25-12 05:15 AM - Post#2251952
In response to Brian48
hate to mention but have you been under the car to see if linkage has come loose or installed wrong or at all
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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07-25-12 11:33 AM - Post#2252057
In response to whiskey1954
whiskey, im not easily offended. Mention anything you think could be an issue. I have NOT been under it yet. I got it home late and tried to work through the adjustment procedure in the manual. I don't really know where to look on the linkage underneath, but I will jack it up and inspect it later tonight. If anyone has a picture of one for reference it would be handy.
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 479
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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07-25-12 12:36 PM - Post#2252067
In response to Brian48
When you go under the car on the drivers side of the trans both shift levers are on that side with the linkages going up to the levers on the column at the firewall see if one is loose but better yet try to have someone shift the car from inside to see if yyou have movement on both linkages sounds like they (garage) did not tighten it back up properly as the shifting fork nub that has the shift lever on side of trans is indexed to go one way and any adjustment to the linkage/ rod has to be made at the column and firewall which should not have been messed with if the just pulled the trans to put in rear main seal the levers on the side of trans has a bolt through them to tighten the lever on the nub but again if this loose check to make sure they have it indexed correct before tightening lever bolt I take it that this was not an issue before you took it to the shop
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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07-25-12 07:19 PM - Post#2252208
In response to whiskey1954
excellent feedback. Thanks guys. No, while the car had the occasional difficulty shifting into second smoothly, I NEVER had this kind of issue. The shop informed me today that they never loosened anything related to shifting other than one bolt that connected near the flywheel cover. HMMMM. I'm swamped at work this week, but will spend some time checking the linkages in the next few days. Thanks so much for the help.
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 395
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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07-25-12 08:43 PM - Post#2252243
In response to Brian48
Brian:
I had the same problem a while back with my 48. The tang on the small lower lever at the bottom of the steering column has to stay in the slot on the larger lever. If you attempt to shift to 2, and, the upper lever doesn't move the tang on the lower lever forward, then the tranny will try to go back in reverse. The tang on the lower lever has to be in the forward position to move the small crankarm on the tranny into the correct position for a 2 - 3 shift. The two crankarms on the side on the tranny are keyed to their shafts so you can't get 'em wrong - unless they left the clamp bolt on the small tranny crankarm loose and its fallen off its shaft. This'll get you started, and, the adjustment procedure for the linkages is detailed in the shop manual. I put a conversion kit on my car to eliminate the vacuum shifter, so I had to fudge things a bit to get her to shift correctly.
Regards:
Oldengineer
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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07-28-12 12:45 PM - Post#2253024
In response to Oldengineer
Hey guys. As much as I hate to post this, I wanted to let you know that after doing the adjustments and not getting anywhere, I decided to jack up the car and get underneath for a closer look. I disconnected the linkages and manually shifted the gears at the transmission, and the little 2/3 arm wouldn't budge. I checked the fluid it it was LOW. I had developed a leak and apparently I lost enough fluid to allow it to start damaging the transmission. In all of its trips to the shop, me checking things, NO ONE took this step. I am now looking at removing the transmission and rebuilding it/replacing it. If you have any sources for this let me know. I found that chevsofthe40s has a rebuild service, but I don't understand the core charge. Its posted as $550 with a $350 core charge. I'm assuming I send them a core and pay $550. I'm thinking if I can get my hands on the right parts and take it to a local shop I will be ahead. Please let me know if you know where to find a complete rebuild kit. Thanks. ps- yes I know I'm a bonehead for not checking the fluid.
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 395
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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07-28-12 09:19 PM - Post#2253193
In response to Brian48
Brian:
I feel your pain. I check the gear lube in my tranny frequently - because it leaks as well. You might check ebay - I've seen rebuilt trannies on there from time to time. Best of luck.
Regards:
Oldengineer
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Daves47 57
Contributor
Posts: 191
Loc: Mpls, MN
Reg: 05-31-12
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07-29-12 10:08 AM - Post#2253326
In response to Brian48
Brian,
You may want to pull tranny and take it apart first before looking for another tranny or having it rebuilt. Could be something minor. If you do need yours rebuilt, I would check into finding anothwer tranny for a 216. I knew of a 216 motor and tranny in some sub of Dallas. The guy managed a Fleet Pride (H.D) location. He Hot-Rodded his '46, '47 or '48 chevy and just wanted to sell / get rid of the stuff.
Pull apart first.
Thanks
Dave
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 395
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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07-29-12 08:16 PM - Post#2253521
In response to Daves47 57
Brian:
One thing I thought of - before you tear into your tranny. I believe there's an interlock between the tranny levers. Put the large lever in the neutral position, and, then try to move the smaller one. Got my fingers crossed for you.
Regards:
Oldengineer
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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08-05-12 08:25 AM - Post#2255934
In response to Oldengineer
Yes, I had already tried moving the smaller one with the other in neutral.  No luck. However, on a road trip this weekend, I randomly pulled into a salvage yard and sure enough, there was a 1947 chevy with a transmission still attached sitting there. The guy wants $200 for it, and if a 47 passenger car tranny is the same as a 48, I'm in luck. I haven't done any research to verify just yet. So if you know, please tell me. Also, I thought I might look to see if the vaccum assist parts are there. Mine was switched over to manual long ago. From reading, it seems like I shouldn't put it back original... but again I'm trying to put everything back original. opinions on that?
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 2-28s313233
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 516
Age: 76
Loc: DFW Texas
Reg: 02-24-05
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08-05-12 12:08 PM - Post#2256017
In response to Brian48
The '47 tranny should work for you. I still have the vaccum assist on my '42 I like it.
Cleon
1928 Chevy touring
1942 Chevy Sport coupe
1949 Chevy Sport coupe
1954 Chevy Bel Air HTP
1970 El Camino
1971 Monte Carlo |
Edited by 2-28s313233 on 08-05-12 12:10 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 479
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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08-05-12 02:34 PM - Post#2256081
In response to 2-28s313233
Brian48: just took mine off orig. to the car but I evidently had a vaccum leak in it and it was affecting performance immensly if it works without leaks I would want to keep it as orig as possible I did not have the $$$'s to fix it but will keep it and fix it one day I just happened across the upgrade as they call it and put it on either or I like to keep them as pure as possible also
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 395
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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08-05-12 08:12 PM - Post#2256195
In response to Brian48
Brian:
The Vacuum assist was operational on my 48 when I bought it. It leaked vacuum badly, but, it worked - mostly. I put a shift conversion kit on my car, and, got rid of it. With the shift conversion, my observations are:
1. Shift lever travel is longer.
2. I can shift gears faster with the conversion kit.
3. You've got more feel with the straight mechanical linkage - I think its easier on the tranny's synchro's and shifter forks.
After driving my car a year with the conversion kit I have no interest in restoring the old vacuum unit and putting it back on.
Regards:
Oldengineer
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 479
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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08-05-12 08:26 PM - Post#2256202
In response to Oldengineer
Oe: I noticed the shifter throw was a little longer but I also notice it feels as if it is in 1st gear to deep I tried adjusting the new lever but I am out of threads and still feels the same Maybe with the longer throw it going where no man has gone before It seems when I shift to 2nd it is a little harder to get out of 1st little tight
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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08-06-12 06:20 AM - Post#2256304
In response to Oldengineer
I truly appreciate the feedback. It sounds like the ole vacuum assist is more trouble than its worth, and could cause grief in the future. Yesterday evening I started the process of removing the transmission, and was shocked to find how easy it was. I'm going to pick up a couple longer bolts to use as guide pins this morning and go ahead and remove it. I plan on going to pull the salvage tranny today as well... TX heat- not the most fun, but worth it.
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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08-06-12 04:32 PM - Post#2256502
In response to Oldengineer
Hey guys: I took the transmission out of the car today and removed the side panel to take a peek inside. I found a few little metal flakes around the selector switch, and it seemed like it was gummed up and in a bind. I soaked it in gasoline and cleaned it up really well, removed the little spring and ball bearings on the slide bar?... and put it all back together. It really seems like it will work now. I looked at the gears inside, and really there was no damage to speak of. Normal wear and tear on a few gear teeth was visible, but nothing major. I moved the gears back and forth and went through the whole cycle, and and it was perfectly smooth. No grit, no rough edges. I honestly think if there is anything wrong, it must be the bearings that I can't get to and check out due to them getting hot and not having proper lubrication. I'm thinking that a rebuild on this one, pick up a few parts on the 47 I found in a salvage yard for future needs, and I will be fine. I hate to pay someone $500 to rebuild something that isn't broken... but I probably will to make sure I don't have to worry about it again for a while.
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 395
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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08-06-12 07:32 PM - Post#2256586
In response to whiskey1954
Whiskey:
Adjusting the swivel on the new rod basically moves the shift lever on the column up and down and rotates the upper lever's sector at the bottom of the column. You have to be careful not to adjust things so that the two levers at the bottom of the steering column disengage from each other when you shift gears. If that happens, the tranny will try to go into reverse when you try to put her in second gear.
Regards:
Oldengineer
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Daves47 57
Contributor
Posts: 191
Loc: Mpls, MN
Reg: 05-31-12
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08-07-12 05:49 AM - Post#2256687
In response to Brian48
Brian,
A tranny for 47 and 48 are the same.
Thanks
Dave
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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08-14-12 08:55 PM - Post#2259429
In response to Daves47 57
Ok guys, I got a good transmission off the 47, but I can tell that it would be beneficial to go ahead and replace the bearing and the clutch gear bearing nut... The issue is I can't find the clutch gear bearing nut anywhere. this is item number 3 on the exploded view of the transmission in the shop manual for the 48. I also need another bell housing that slips over the u-joints... the one that you slide back over the "propeller shaft" to access the u-joints. Mine is horribly worn and grooved. any ideas on that one?
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Daves47 57
Contributor
Posts: 191
Loc: Mpls, MN
Reg: 05-31-12
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08-15-12 06:29 AM - Post#2259511
In response to Brian48
Brian,
HHHHHMMMMMMMM. Have you tried "Chevs of the 40s"? That housing....it's grooved up?? What grooved it up? Those just don't wear out.
Let me think about it for a moment.
Dave
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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08-15-12 07:59 PM - Post#2259774
In response to Daves47 57
Hey Dave... I found my magic part through a pretty cool source in GA... Obsolete Chevy- 1-800-248-8785 for future reference. The bell housing on the drive shaft was worn where the actual collar connects with it. There was NO cork gasket in place inside, so it just was riding metal on metal. amazing what redneck silicon fixes can do to a perfectly good part.
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bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5103
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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08-16-12 12:12 AM - Post#2259810
In response to Brian48
Hey Dave... I found my magic part through a pretty cool source in GA... Obsolete Chevy- 1-800-248-8785 for future reference. The bell housing on the drive shaft was worn where the actual collar connects with it. There was NO cork gasket in place inside, so it just was riding metal on metal. amazing what redneck silicon fixes can do to a perfectly good part.
HEY, I'm in Georgia, but not a redneck. Would I find all your work performed in a pristine manner????
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Daves47 57
Contributor
Posts: 191
Loc: Mpls, MN
Reg: 05-31-12
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08-16-12 05:59 AM - Post#2259853
In response to Brian48
Brian,
That's cool that you found the parts. replace the cork gasket, check the ujoint metal straps to be tight and there should be a seal to replace also.
A friend of my was driving his '47 fleetmaster a few weeks ago...starting hearing a rattling noise..and all it was ...was one of the ujoint straps came loose and the little bolts and strap rattling around.
Dave
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Brian48
Forum Newbie
Posts: 75
Age: 30
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Reg: 06-18-12
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08-22-12 07:11 PM - Post#2262249
In response to Daves47 57
Yes, I am waiting on a few more parts, but the tranny will be right as rain soon. I needed the oil slinger nut, the propeller shaft bell housing, shift shaft seal, front and rear bearings... and had to do a little switching and swapping with the gears inside. Everything will be great in a few days when all the parts arrive. I also discovered that the u-joint bolts that came with the seals and straps... were smaller heads than what I pulled off... will be MUCH easier to deal with.
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Daves47 57
Contributor
Posts: 191
Loc: Mpls, MN
Reg: 05-31-12
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08-23-12 05:51 AM - Post#2262353
In response to Brian48
Cool...Keep us young...good looking guys posted.
Dave
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