 6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1862
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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07-18-12 01:25 AM - Post#2249340
How many troops here have relocated their fuel lines to OUTSIDE the frame with a Danchuk kit? How far forward does the line run before it crosses over to connect with the flex-line, then the fuel pump?
I know the 2x4 and fulie cars used a 3/8" line, but the PO never upgraded the 5/16" line inside the frame when he dropped in the 283 fulie. Do I REALLY need 3/8" line? Will I need to change the sending unit In the tank, or can I just sneak by with a adapter fitting at the sender?
I came home Sunday from a show to find gas dripping off the frame near the firewall. Nothing more than a hose clamp that needed to be snugged up - I hope! It then dawned on me that my 'Widow still had the stock line from when the six was installed...Got me to thinkin' that going outside the frame just might help minimize some of my vapor lock issues with the fulie when I shut down the engine in hot weather, then it won't refire without lots of cranking. Nothing I can do about the biggest issue - CRAP GAS, with a low vaporization point that varies widely. The gas then boils in the spider and the lines. I did find a clip-on 12v fan with a lighter plug and 10' lead that I forgot I had - I'm sure that will help some!
Lemme hear your thoughts on fuel lines... 
Mucho Thanks, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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motorman
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5017
Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
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07-18-12 06:26 AM - Post#2249379
In response to 6-bangertim
How many troops here have relocated their fuel lines to OUTSIDE the frame with a Danchuk kit? How far forward does the line run before it crosses over to connect with the flex-line, then the fuel pump?
I know the 2x4 and fulie cars used a 3/8" line, but the PO never upgraded the 5/16" line inside the frame when he dropped in the 283 fulie. Do I REALLY need 3/8" line? Will I need to change the sending unit In the tank, or can I just sneak by with a adapter fitting at the sender?
I came home Sunday from a show to find gas dripping off the frame near the firewall. Nothing more than a hose clamp that needed to be snugged up - I hope! It then dawned on me that my 'Widow still had the stock line from when the six was installed...Got me to thinkin' that going outside the frame just might help minimize some of my vapor lock issues with the fulie when I shut down the engine in hot weather, then it won't refire without lots of cranking. Nothing I can do about the biggest issue - CRAP GAS, with a low vaporization point that varies widely. The gas then boils in the spider and the lines. I did find a clip-on 12v fan with a lighter plug and 10' lead that I forgot I had - I'm sure that will help some!
Lemme hear your thoughts on fuel lines...
Mucho Thanks, Tim
55 power pac chevy had the fuel and brake lines outside the frame from the factory to prevent the exhaust heat from causing problems. the dual exhaust kit that chevy sold back then came with new fuel and brake lines to be installed outside the frame
| retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way |
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YOUNG57
Contributor
Posts: 458
Loc: Franklin TN
Reg: 12-06-10
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07-18-12 08:33 AM - Post#2249446
In response to 6-bangertim
The outside the frame fuel line crosses over the top of the frame at the back of the engine compartment and uses the same line to frame clip as the inside the frame line, about 6” or so back from the pump.
Inside and outside the frame fuel/brake line to frame clips are the same and the frame is already drilled/punched for the clips on both sides.
I think relocating the fuel and brake lines to the outside of the frame is best if you’re going to run dual exhaust. It helps reduce heat issues on them.
5/16” vs. 3/8” lines is more a matter of choice. Even later model cars with Quadrajets used 3/8” lines. You can install a 3/8” line now and use an adapter to connect it to a 5/16” sending unit (or vice versa). And if later you need to replace the sending unit go to a 3/8” one then it would all be 3/8”.
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 2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3864
Age: 71
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
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07-18-12 11:23 AM - Post#2249535
In response to YOUNG57
Having been in an accident many years ago where the side impact ruptured an outside the frame fuel line and caused a fire, I won't run lines anywhere but inside the frame rails now. On my recent build '55 gasser, I ran both the supply line and the return line inside the frame rail and wrapped them with high temp exhaust header material to keep the heat off. It looks great and the fuel stays cool. And it is protected if I get broadsided....
Aloha,
Willy
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f.i.57chevynut
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1194
Loc: Granada Hills, CA
Reg: 03-04-09
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07-18-12 10:12 PM - Post#2249752
In response to 6-bangertim
Tim, To make the car closer to correct it would be cool to install the 3/8 fuel line and brake line to their correct place. The brake line has a bracket on the inside of the frame rail behind where it crosses over the top of the spring mount with a large clip, to hold the brake line up above the exhaust pipe. These changes will keep both the fuel line and brake line away from the heat. The routing of the fuel line and brake line are very spacific. They run on the frame rail through the 2 rear body braces then on top of the front body brace and cross over each other, and the fuel line has a loop clip that holds it to the frame close to the flair. There's more but I'll get to that if you decide to do the change over.
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Highlander1
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1197
Loc: SE North Carolina
Reg: 08-19-04
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07-20-12 09:42 PM - Post#2250461
In response to f.i.57chevynut
Similar to Tim, I have a 6-cyl car that I am rebuilding as a V-8 (2 x WCFBs) with 3/8 fuel line outside the frame, although Willy makes an interesting observation about safety. I ordered the line, fuel/brake line clips, rear frame bracket, etc., from one of the vendors that specialize in Tri-5 cars. When I got the fuel/brake line clips (B21-04-05) they looked like they might not accommodate the larger 3/8" line so I emailed the tech dept for advice (there was no installation instructions with either part) and was told in a reply to go find a professional mechanic. Just the kind of after the sale support I was looking for.
So, any one use these clips on 3/8" fuel line? Looks like the brake line goes in the clip first and is on the bottom and then the fuel line on top. It appears that the clips are first pressed into the frame and then the lines installed but, like I said, no instructions or tech advice with these babies. Just found my copy of CCI's "How to rebuild your 57 Chevy." Page 49 sorta covers this and adds more confusion. According to CCI the clips have a green oxide finish and "the last two clips on the fuel line and the last clip on the brake line are probably different from the rest of the clips." Well, the clips I have (5) are all the same and painted semi-gloss black. Any advice from someone that has done this will be appreciated! Thanks, Don
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6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1862
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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07-21-12 01:24 AM - Post#2250493
In response to Highlander1
Thanks guys for the replies!  
Willie, that is a dang good point I never thought of - GOD FORBID any of us gets T-boned. Has me thinking about using some form of heat reflecting sleeve for both fuel and brake lines. I'm thinking of cutting the 5/16 line a couple feet before the firewall, then going with 3/8 - running it across the top of the frame, then over the inside edge to connect the flex-line. Something I'll be looking at for ideas when our club has their big show the last Sunday in August.
The fuel leak was from the side of the float bowel on the F.I., where a plug had fell out. Fixed it with a homemade convex plug form a NICKLE I had in my pocket!!!  I set it over a socket and wacked the center with a punch and hammer to shrink the OD to fit. Dabbed some silicon in the recess and tapped it in - NO LEAKS, so far! Worked on it after work (swing-shift) until 3AM, just so I could drive the 'Widow to work for an employee car show. Just like on a race car - WHATEVER IT TAKES!!! 
Don, I'll guess you bought your kit and clips from "'dem boys in Florida". From what I've read in the vendor fourm here, their service has hit the bowel. NEVER ordered a thing from them. Hell, I gave up on their magazine.  They wanted $300 for the rubber mat for the Utility Sedan - ordered one from C.A.R.S. for 2-bills, with $30 shipping today. 
Happy Wrenching this weekend! - Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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Highlander1
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1197
Loc: SE North Carolina
Reg: 08-19-04
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07-21-12 08:30 AM - Post#2250552
In response to 6-bangertim
Tim, you get an A+ in US geography! This morning I found my factory assembly instruction manual and it helps some. It shows six fuel/brake clips plus the single fuel line clip just before the rubber flex line to the pump (which I have) whereas the "kit" only has five -- and I can see from the drawing that the last clip before the fuel and brake lines go their separate ways appears to be different than those I have. So, I wonder if there is another clip that I need? Don
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6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1862
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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07-21-12 09:35 AM - Post#2250576
In response to Highlander1
Danchuk is open today - like NOW! Ask for their Tech guy and see what they say. Give the Fla. clips away - easier than getting a credit or refund, unless you send them directly to Robert Snowden (magazine editor) asking for help.
I've also herd good things about Ralph Roberts in WA and East Coast Chevys here on CT. Good Luck Don!
- Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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