My 327 Build was a .40 over build with a really mild 206/214 duration cam from comp (here) that gets its power off idle, as I wanted good usable power, and in all honesty, 99% of my driving is done under 4000k rpms. I have 9.5-1 compression, and have my timing set at 20 initial, 38 total, coming in at 25-2700rps, and it has really great manners (Vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum and is 12 total). I run 93 octane and have no issues at all.
Now that I swapped from a powerglide and 3.07 gear to 200-4r and 3.73 gears, I would have chosen a different cam, but it is still really nice. I also got all the comp stuff for the 461 heads, and did screw in studs and guide plates.

Nick, 66C, just to be clear for this discussion; is that 20 and 18 initial before connecting the vac advance?

Jeff,

I really like your primer coat... that motor will look great once you get the Hugger Orange on it

Greg

When the shop redid the valves did they use the tool that not only cuts a new seat but also cleans up the port to about an inch below the seat?

Your going with a roller cam but not using floating pins in the forged pistons?

Back when, we used to take the vibration dampner in when getting the engine balanced. The clutch assembly too, if I recall correctly.

Will adding roller rocker arms require a push rod length check?

Because the heads have been milled might it not be advisable to have the chambers cc'd, so that you know what you have?

I love those 327's, hence my anal questions..can't be too careful when talking high rpm use.

just my $.02

Stanley

Engine is going to look great!

A couple of things I want to run by you.
I see you are running the heads basically bone stock. I feel you're going to have problems down the line if you run a roller cam under this.

I realize you are not building a race engine but the steeper/quicker ramps of the roller cam is going to take a toll on those rocker studs and springs. And, even a mild roller cam needs more valve lift then these old stock heads can handle.

Usually when you retro fit a roller cam into a gen1 block you install a matched component kit. They also recommend screw in studs.

You still have the option to stay with a flat tappet cam. If you run the correct oil with proper zinc levels you will be fine. ZDDP sells the additive that can be added to any oil also.

Just realized I have the heads set on backwards. I just threw them on to see how it looked and ran a couple bolts on to hold them in place.

• Quote:

What?? How can that be.... they're identical. (Or was that a joke? )

I'm a big fan of 327's, and am watching your build as you post updates. I like the cast (silver) paint and agree that it will look nice in a black engine compartment.

Maybe not as nice as Chev orange, but nice nonetheless. Here's to you for stepping up to be different.

• bouncer Said:

The heads are not quite bone stock, but close. The springs are PSI High Performance and are rated for .55 lift with no problems. I do agree on the screw-in studs, and I'm a little miffed they didn't do that when I picked them up. I'll probably take it back down to get them tapped and prepped and then install them myself with guide plates.

The guy that owns the shop the motor is at is an old family friend I've known all my life. He's a retired ford mechanic and knows his motors, and he's old-school. He used to drill and pin, but I'm generally a lazy guy and would rather have someone else do the hard work, so I'll take them in for the tap work.

As for the roller lifters, it was by no means set in stone. I was just kicking the idea around as I liked the idea of less friction on these motors. To be honest I'll probably go the more traditional route, so no worries there.

Keep up the questions, like I said before I have a lot of catching up to do being out of the hobby for a long time.

Did the new valve springs come with collars and split locks?