iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 86
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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07-15-12 07:21 PM - Post#2248545
Was looking over at my Chebby and thought..."I'm gonna clean up some of that rust in the trunk today!" 
Feeling cocky I strutted over to my new ride...popped the trunk and began pulling stuff out. Spare tire, complete with rust imprint up to the wheel-check. There goes the broken down and ripped trunk liner-whoosh. Ahh yess...I then survey my objective. Isn't too bad really. A little bit of surface rust here and there. All except for the wheel well. It's horrendous...but no holes. I can do this!
I begin looking around the garage. What to use here...hmmm. There's a belt sander. Still has the belt that came with it on it. Worked pretty good on that pine wood I was sanding. Let's try it! I got about 30 seconds into that train wreck and new that wasn't going to work. The trunk ate that thing like it was candy. I swiftly returned it to its place of rest...the now shredded belt barely holding on. Hmmm...I need a grinder. No grinders here. Hey I've got my Dremel! I can use that!
I ran over...pulled out the little case it was in and surveyed my assortments of loose tips to use. I use this on my reef tank...diamond blades work great cutting rocks and corals. But not a lot here for metal. Here's one! A 1/4" wide grinder bit! That'll work.
I plug it in, fire it up, and get grinding! Immediately I am engulfed in a red cloud of rust. I can TASTE rust now. "I bet a respirator would be handy at this very moment!" I think to myself. Shut the dremel off and again walk over to my sparsely filled tool chest. Ok...who am I kidding...its a cardboard box that happens to be in my garage. There's mnothing "chest" about it. I dig around and voila! One fresh new paper painters mask from Home Depot. BOOM...done. I grab the surprisinlgy thin rubber bands and begin pulling it over my head...SNAP! The bottom strap broke. Oh well...not to worry...CLEARLY that's why there's two! I pull it over my head again, this time I am careful not to break it. I pinch the flimsy little metal strip near the nose and get back to work.
Only...the short bit on this thing is so close to the Dremel...I can really only get the edge to actually touch. So now I'm basicly drawing lines in the rust. I soon start to simply scribble my way across the damaged areas. Not the most effective way to do this in the world. But stuff is flying...away...sort of. About an hour later I call myself done with the grinding. A friend recommended spraying a little WD40 on it to keep it from spreading. SO I did. Wiped off the excess and here it is...TAH DAH...my masterpiece!
 What no applause? Yeah...after reconsidering...I wouldn't clap either. Pretty much a mess isnt it? Lol. So is my nose by the way. Just blew my nose and its like an auburn colored oil slick (sorry...bad visual). My wife is now looking at me and shaking her head disapprovingly.
"So honey, does this mean I get new tools?" 
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 wagonman100
Super Senior Member
Posts: 12996
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
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07-15-12 08:09 PM - Post#2248559
In response to iRiE
Sounds like quite an adventure. I don't think I would have tried either of those methods and I definitely wouldn't have sprayed WD on it. Best bet now would be to use a 3M wheel on it. It looks like a rubbery Scotchbright pad and you use it in an angle grinder (usually a pnuematic one, so bug the wife for a compressor ). They work great at removing rust. You may want to find something to clean up the WD as it may wreak havoc on whatever you use to paint the trunk floor later.
Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.
1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon |
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57ChevyHT
Senior Member
Posts: 832
Loc: Cabot, AR
Reg: 01-23-02
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07-15-12 08:17 PM - Post#2248566
In response to wagonman100
I agree with Wagonmaster, Take some Lac. thinner to it and let it dry out. 3m scotchbrite works wonders. I would recommend POR-15 on the trunk floor. You can brush it on and it'll look like you sprayed it. If your not familar with this stuff look it up online. Works great to stop rust. It's a little pricy but you could probably do your whole trunk floor with a half pint.
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 86
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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07-15-12 08:44 PM - Post#2248580
In response to wagonman100
Hmmm...so nay on the WD huh? Okay...good to know. Where would I find those 3m pads? Does Home Cheapo carry em?
My wife said the first picture looked like the after photo.
Shut up woman.
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 86
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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07-15-12 08:48 PM - Post#2248583
In response to 57ChevyHT
So the thinner would be to work on the rust? Or remove the WD? (Smh)
I would recommend POR-15 on the trunk floor. You can brush it on and it'll look like you sprayed it. If your not familar with this stuff look it up online. Works great to stop rust. It's a little pricy but you could probably do your whole trunk floor with a half pint.
That mechanic I was talking to recommended that as well. Is that something you have to order or is it carried by local chains somewhere?
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57ChevyHT
Senior Member
Posts: 832
Loc: Cabot, AR
Reg: 01-23-02
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07-15-12 09:04 PM - Post#2248587
In response to iRiE
Hi iRiE,
The laquer thinner is to remove the w-d and dry out the pores of the metal. You may have to repeat this process a few times. Below is link from Eastwood products on the por products they offer, however you can buy it a tons of different places. It's good stuff for a quick fix and a PERMANENT coating on inner fenders ect. However the Por by itself is UV sensitive so you'll have to top coat it if it's exposed to light. BTW. wear gloves and make sure you clean it off yourself before it drys or you'll be wearing it for a week or two... no joke. This stuff is bad A$$ 
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/por-15 .html
Edited by 57ChevyHT on 07-15-12 09:08 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Charlie57
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2950
Loc: Lebanon, Tennessee
Reg: 03-30-08
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07-15-12 09:22 PM - Post#2248591
In response to 57ChevyHT
iRiE,
I used to live in Elk Grove and Davis over 20 years ago. There was a shop called Jim's Chevrolet parts in Rancho Cordova, I just did a google search and he is still there. He sales parts for tri-fives. Have you been there?
Charlie
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 86
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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07-15-12 09:30 PM - Post#2248594
In response to 57ChevyHT
Thank you sir! I'll look into that for sure.
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 86
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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07-15-12 09:39 PM - Post#2248596
In response to Charlie57
iRiE,
I used to live in Elk Grove and Davis over 20 years ago. There was a shop called Jim's Chevrolet parts in Rancho Cordova, I just did a google search and he is still there. He sales parts for tri-fives. Have you been there?
Charlie
Hey Charlie...yep still there. I thought I'd won the lottery when I found out there was actually a Tri-Five parts shop in my own city! I drove over there the other day and promptly stalled out when I tried to leave (dead battery).
"Hey Jim...nice to meet you I'm Joel. Got any jumper cables?" Lol. 
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mikeski
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1014
Loc: Massachusetts
Reg: 03-26-05
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07-16-12 06:14 AM - Post#2248653
In response to iRiE
I bought an assortment set of copper wire wheels at a car show for under $12. They come in all kinds of shapes and fit in your electric or cordless drill. Work great for surface rust. I even cleaned up an old aluminum intake manifold with them.
MikeSki
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9389
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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07-16-12 06:36 AM - Post#2248668
In response to iRiE
I'd start by removing the loose rust with a sanding pad like one of these: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3 MIndu... You can buy similar products in the paint departments of any hardware store. Of course flapper wheels and wire wheels will work too, where you have room for the drill.
I'd then use a chemical rust convertor. Once that's dry, I'd wash with dish soap and hot water, let dry, and apply primer and paint. I have used Rustoleum with good success on projects like yours. It holds up well even on formerly rusty suspension parts. Only drawback is it can take a day or more to completely dry.
I have also used PPG epoxy primer directly on rust (after removing the loose stuff). Did this on my pickup's bed >20 years ago, and it still looks pretty good.
POR 15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator will also work, but they are not really paints, and they dry hard as a rock. And once you open the can, shelf life is next to nothing, so don't buy more than you need. For the POR15 you would skip the rust convertor step and use directly over the prepped rust. In fact, it's designed to adhere to rust.
Be sure to let us know what you end up doing and how it turns out.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 07-16-12 06:40 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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larrybrowningmauldin
"4th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 376
Loc: New Braunfels,TX
Reg: 08-16-05
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07-16-12 07:12 AM - Post#2248682
In response to MikeB
What about this approach? Use a product called OSPHO which is a phosphoric acid base liquid( don't worry as you will find phosphoric acid in Coca Cola and other "soft" drinks).Treat the rusted area, let it sit overnight. The rust will turn gray. Sand the area and add more OSPHO until you'r sure the rust is gone. Then you can seal and paint. Works for me.
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 6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1892
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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07-16-12 10:29 AM - Post#2248757
In response to MikeB
x2 with the Rustoleum - both primer and paint, as they don't require a perfect bare-metal surface to stick well. Just remove the surface rust, then spray the primer. You can topcoat with spray paint within the hour, then wait at least 24-hours for everything to dry hard. I use the INDUSTRIAL PRIMER first. For under 6-bucks a can, it just can't be beat!!!
I've used nothing but Rustoleum on my '57-235 car to repaint wheel-wells, front suspension, rear axle, frame areas, and the firewall. It holds up really, REALLY well.
You can use a wire wheel in a drill - but I don't like them. The wires snap off and spit back at me.   I REALLY LIKE the abrasive NYLON 4" wheels made by WEILER - VORTEC. The nylon bristles don't break off and they wear very well. I haven't seen them at Lowe's or H-D, so try ACE or TRU-VALUE hardware stores. Worth the search!!!
PROTECT YOUR EYES - use safety glasses or safety goggles. Take the time to WORK SAFE. A trip to the ER takes the fun out of any project.
I have a DEWALT variable-speed drill with a 3/8" keyless chuck - LOVE IT!!! Take a look at Lowe's.
Resist the cheap prices in the Harbor Freight flyers. BUY GOOD TOOLS ONLY ONE TIME!!!
Besides GOOD TOOLS, a Repair Manual and a Factory Assembly Manual will be the BEST $$$ you will ever spend on your car. If the PO didn't give you the books, GET THEM!!! THEY ARE THE BIBLE FOR OUR CARS - a must for correcting the previous sins of others and doing the job RIGHT.
Good Luck and WELCOME to a great hobby!!!  - Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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Edited by 6-bangertim on 07-16-12 10:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9389
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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07-16-12 10:41 AM - Post#2248762
In response to 6-bangertim
I've used nothing but Rustoleum on my '57-235 car to repaint wheel-wells, front suspension, rear axle, frame areas, and the firewall. It holds up really, REALLY well.
Painted the exposed parts of my pickup's frame from the cab back, along with the rear control arms, springs, and axle around 10-11 years ago. Wire brushed off all the surface rust, washed off the dust with soap and water, and brushed on some reddish-brown Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. (Only used the primer on the nastiest areas.) Topped that off with their standard old semi-gloss black spray paint. Things still look good today, even though the truck sits outside 95% of the time.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 07-16-12 10:46 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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62sedan
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3355
Age: 62
Loc: North Dallas area
Reg: 08-12-02
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07-16-12 11:19 AM - Post#2248770
In response to MikeB
Here's another great rust encapsulator / neutralizer thats quick, easy to use, and does a great job. Should be available at most hardware stores (Lowes, HomeDepot, Ace, TrueValue, etc.) Ace sells a 10-1/2 oz spray can for under $6.00.
Spray it on wire-brushed rusty areas and the clear spray will turn black when it's done its job and is dry. I've used it a few time with excellent results.
Ace Hardware >>> http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productdetails.as...
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 gotta56forme
"8th Year"Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3282
Age: 50
Loc: West Seattle
Reg: 09-19-03
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07-16-12 12:43 PM - Post#2248796
In response to 62sedan
iRiE,
Let me 'channel' your mother for a moment and say be careful with the rust and your eyes, lungs, etc. When my Dr. asked me about my last tetanus shot, I told him I couldn't remember so I requested he give me one since I'm around old car parts. Safety glasses, particle masks, respirators, gloves are your friend regardless of how uncool you think you look.
There, channeling done.
Scott/Gotta56forme/"Mom"
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jeffs55
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11691
Age: 54
Loc: Shelby Forest, Tennessee
Reg: 01-05-06
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07-16-12 01:58 PM - Post#2248809
In response to gotta56forme
Ditto on the tetanus shot. I got one last time I went to the doc.
If it's been 10 (years) do it again.
I use the ospho as well, but mainly because I got 3 gallons of it at a surplus salvage store for cheap. It works well. Turns rust black when it's got enough coats.
(sounds like what that Loc-tite product does)
Works great for removing surface rust ( ie.stripped sheet metal that has sat for a while) by applying with steel wool or scrubbing with a fine wire brush. Use gloves and long sleeves. It will burn you if it splashes on your arm and especially if it gets under a ring, for example.
Always follow instructions on the label of any product you use.
As far as tools, check out yard sales, flea markets, local paper classifieds for deals on good used tools.
Just be sure to check them out thoroughly.
Ask to plug in and test any electric power tools.
A 4" disc grinder/sander is my NO.1 power tool I'd recommend for anyone looking at building a tool collection.
(representative pic)
Get a fiber backup pad for using sanding discs.
The hard grinding discs I don't have much of a use for.
I like these:
I do everything from shaping metal, grinding welds and sharpening my lawnmower blades with them.
NO. 2 would be a power drill. At least 19v cordless and add a 1/2 inch corded drill later.
One can do a lot without an air compressor, but they are really nice to have.
Then you can start collecting air tools!
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
I actually own 2 Chevys now!
My Pics
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 55
Loc: Bay Area , Calif
Reg: 08-19-03
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07-16-12 07:25 PM - Post#2248912
In response to jeffs55
Jims is a great place for parts. Drive up there if I need something right away. He also does work in his shop. A good guy
Good Luck
Tommy
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3875
Age: 71
Loc: Sandwich Isles
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07-17-12 11:33 PM - Post#2249328
In response to 57TOMMY
I've used both Ospho and POR15 with good results, I probably overdo it, but I like to get it as clean as I can before using the coatings. The Ospho converts the iron oxide to iron phosphate, which is relatively stable, at least that's what I've been told. Before I got an air compressor, I've used a wood handle wire brush, a vacuum cleaner (to suck up the crap with), and lots of elbow grease, then the ospho (rubber cloves, safety glasses, and a rag and carefully swab it on so I'm not leaving puddles of it around....)let it dry, brush off the white residue (there's always some it seems), and even wipe it down with clean water and a rag if it seems sticky in places, let it dry thoroughly, then the primer and finish coat of your choice. Rustoleum has always worked well for me.
I like the POR15, but if you need to rework the area later, man that stuff is miserable to get off, and you need to get it off if you are going to do any welding or other heat work. I did some '55 stock rims with it once and they came out quite nice, and still look good 10 years later. I did topcoat them with a gloss black to prevent the UV effects. Our local paint store sells it, I buy the smallest cans, it costs more that way, but then I don't have leftovers turning hard almost immediately and having to throw it away....
The trunk in my '55 hardtop is worse then you pix and I will be doing it with Ospho, after welding up a couple of holes.....
Aloha,
Willy
Slow Old Man=Fast Old Cars
PictureTrail
2Loose
Chevys:55.Hardtop;55.4drgasser;
55.4x4truck;58.prostreettruck
+57.Olds;70.BuickGS
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iRiE
Forum Newbie
Posts: 86
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
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07-21-12 10:35 AM - Post#2250596
In response to gotta56forme
Yeah thanks. I had my thick rimmed glasses on so I felt reasonably covered for my eyes. But the respirator issue was a life lesson! I will never do that again! I was spitting and sneezing up crap all night. My wife even made me use her "Nettie pot". If you've never seen it...its this little teapot lookin thing that you put saline solution in and rinse your nose out with. I felt gay as hell using it...but I can't lie...it helped.
I'll be buying myself a real respirator next time. And I do have a compressor believe it or not...so I think a 4" disc sander may also be in my future. Thanks for all the tips guys! I'll be looking for those 3m pads and the coatings too.
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Edited by iRiE on 07-21-12 10:36 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Gray Headed Mule
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4729
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Reg: 12-11-03
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07-25-12 01:07 PM - Post#2252084
In response to iRiE
Shut up woman.
And you are still able to see the computer monitor to type? WOW!
My wife would beat me like a red headed step child!
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 Big T
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2210
Loc: Simi Valley CA
Reg: 04-14-06
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07-25-12 06:22 PM - Post#2252187
In response to iRiE
POR-15 has a great line up of products.
If you decide to use it on your trunk floor or anywhere else, I recommend, if you have any left over, put it into a glass jar with a rubber sealed quarter twist top. A lot of caned foods have this.
Be extra careful to NOT get any POR 15 on the threads, jar or lid.
If air is allowed to get to the POR, it will dry up the contents like a rock real fast. If you get it on the threads......you will never be able to remove the lid.
I left mine in the original can, after cleaning the rim etc. and wasted a half of a quart to the local land fill (hazardous material section).
I have a peach jar in the garage that is about 4 years old. I kind of swish the fluid (just a little) every now and then and it is like new.
that stuff is great but pricy so you want to make sure you don't loose any of it to the trash bucket.
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