CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
|
07-13-12 11:03 AM - Post#2247803
Our friend RickL ruined my day a few weeks ago when he mentioned how he had mini-tubbed his trunk floor for his centered FI Fuel Tank given the outlet hit the floor without it. I did most everything except, actually put my fuel tank up against the floor before painting my car. 
So I have (2) ideas I'd like some input on...
I was thinking I could get a 4x4 post,, round off an end with a saw/grinder, then jack that up against the trunk floor to "indent" that area of the floor where it hits a bit. Think it'll work? If I can get a little space there at the 2.5" opening, I think I can get by doing the below...
Second, the outlet on my tank is 2.5 SS. The fill tube on a '57 is 2". I bought a 2.5" to 2" SS transition from Burns Stainless. The transition starts immediately at the 2.5" side and has a couple of inches on the 2" where I can use 2" hose to do the join to the fill tube. Can I weld (2) pieces of SS together with my MIG? I know it's not the best/right way, but will it be good enough for the job?
Thanks,
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
'09 Avalanche LTZ |
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
 acardon
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 9470
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
|
07-13-12 11:18 AM - Post#2247815
In response to CharlieC
I've welded stainless with steel wire and it seemed to work fine, it just won't stay polished. I know a guy that does small TIG stainless jobs very reasonable and is located not too far from you.
The trunk floor probably won't "dent" but will bow up from the outside edges across the entire trunk floor.
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
|
Edited by acardon on 07-13-12 11:20 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
SteveW
Senior Member
Posts: 1348
Loc: Shreveport
Reg: 04-24-02
|
07-13-12 11:44 AM - Post#2247825
In response to CharlieC
If you weld stainless to stainless you need 308 wire for you mig gun.
If you weld stainless to mild steel you need to use 309 wire.
You can just get a small roll of stainless mig wire and use it around the house for a lot of things other than weld wire.
Makes a good wire for an electric fence also.
|
leon phelps
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3048
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
|
07-13-12 11:47 AM - Post#2247826
In response to acardon
I had the same issue with my 65 impala.
I wound up making a box in the trunk that I had cut out with a plasma cutter. I then made a box that I panel bonded in the trunk to cover the hole. Not exactly flawless due to my fabrication skills, but I can put anything I want on the box and have no fear the fuel pump is still safe.
I used a 96 impala plastic tank.
|
 Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24809
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
|
07-13-12 12:39 PM - Post#2247839
In response to CharlieC
I've welded stainless to stainless using mild steel wire with my mig. Refurbished some loose rods on the neighbor's barbecue grill. No problem at all. As Don said, it's just not going to look good, and it will probably get surface rust before long. On the grill it got carboned up and protected.
As for the trunk floor, I agree with Don - I don't think you'll end up with a localized "bulge" like you want. On mine, part of the problem was that the filler pipe crossed a ribbed area of the trunk floor. No way that you make a local bulge of that.
|
CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
|
07-13-12 12:45 PM - Post#2247842
In response to acardon
The trunk floor probably won't "dent" but will bow up from the outside edges across the entire trunk floor.
I see what you mean. I guess option 2 on this might be to do the jack/4x4 thing, but only raise it the point of making good contact with the floor and then stand/stomp/small jump in the trunk? Man, this sounds so stupid as I type it... but I'll try anything before cutting on the floor.
I did order some Stainless MIG wire, and thanks to Amazon Prime, will have it here tomorrow for only $9 in shipping, what a deal.
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
'09 Avalanche LTZ |
|
SteveW
Senior Member
Posts: 1348
Loc: Shreveport
Reg: 04-24-02
|
07-13-12 03:07 PM - Post#2247885
In response to CharlieC
Charlie I think all of us that have welded very much have welded stainless with mild steel at one time or another.
If you ever have a time that your not sure if something is stainless or mild steel just get a magnet and see if it will stick. It will not stick to stainless unless its a very low grade of stainless and even then it will want to fall off.
|
 jel1957
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 414
Loc: Sugar Land, Texas
Reg: 01-01-04
|
07-13-12 03:36 PM - Post#2247887
In response to SteveW
One thing I have heard in the past is that this will promote some corrosion due due dis-similar metals (galvanic type corrosion). Might be with looking into.
|
oldxeroid
Forum Newbie
Posts: 10
Loc: Long Beach, Ca.
Reg: 09-20-10
|
07-13-12 03:52 PM - Post#2247897
In response to SteveW
 If you weld stainless to stainless you need 308 wire for you mig gun.
If you weld stainless to mild steel you need to use 309 wire.
You can just get a small roll of stainless mig wire and use it around the house for a lot of things other than weld wire.
Makes a good wire for an electric fence also.
Great detailed Info. 
|
SteveW
Senior Member
Posts: 1348
Loc: Shreveport
Reg: 04-24-02
|
07-13-12 03:54 PM - Post#2247899
In response to jel1957
Yes it will rust on the weld. And if I was welding something with pressure I would use stainless wire.
If no pressure then just paint it silver so no rust.
|
FiveSeven
Member
Posts: 58
Loc: Castaic, CA
Reg: 10-28-05
|
07-14-12 05:09 AM - Post#2248041
In response to CharlieC
I think I may have started the post you are refering to. I ended up taking my tank to Earl and he lowered the fill pipe on the tank by about 1/2 inch. Worked out fine.
|
SAM_57
Very Senior Member
Posts: 2945
Loc: Hampton, VA USA
Reg: 06-20-01
|
07-16-12 03:53 AM - Post#2248625
In response to CharlieC
Check with your welding supplier about what type of gas to use. I know it is different from mild steel, but do know the type or mixture.
I welded my exhaust system with a MIG and it has held up and doesn't leak. Not pretty, but I'm not a great welder either.
| S.Pollard
57 Belair sport coupe
69 C/10 stepside (wife's)
84 Monte Carlo SS
|
|
SteveW
Senior Member
Posts: 1348
Loc: Shreveport
Reg: 04-24-02
|
07-16-12 06:38 AM - Post#2248670
In response to SAM_57
I have used straight CO2 or 75/25.
Its cheaper and will work fine for what I do around the house.
Go to this page and see mig welding gas.
http://www.weld-direct.com/GasSelection.html
If you Heli-Arc (TIG) weld it you need straight argon.
|
CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
|
07-16-12 03:15 PM - Post#2248834
In response to SteveW
Thanks to Don, I found a guy who's claim to fame is the only guy who today, can build a Stearman plane from scratch. He's got a hangar at a little country airport about 10 minutes from me. 20 minute drive, $20 bill plus a beer tip and my reducer was professionally welded to my tank.
Thanks for the tips.
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
'09 Avalanche LTZ |
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
ThomasG
