nicke
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Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-10-12 09:19 PM - Post#2246826
Ok, well not really a grudge match, but competitive nonetheless. My twin brother and I have abet to see which of our cars is quicker in the 1/4 mile. We have had these cars since we were 16. Neither is fast (by today's standards) but that doesn't stop us ;-) I will be posting results and showing video of race too!
His:
67' Mustang Coupe
2800lbs
289, newly rebuilt, stock spec cam
2 barrel carb,
All original drivetrain/accessories
c4 auto tranny (3spd)
2.73 gears
stock exhaust, exhaust manifolds
26" OD tires
Mine:
65' Impala SS
Newly rebuild 327 bored .40 over
461 Camel hump heads
Comp cams 206/214 @.50 duration
9.5-1 +/- compression
Edelbrock 1406 carb, performer manifold
HEI
Headers into turbo mufflers
3.73 Gears
200-4r transmission
3600lbs
27" OD tires
(Full write up here for anyone interested or here on FB)
Thoughts? Do I have a chance?
-Nick
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novice66
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1117
Age: 29
Loc: san antonio,tx
Reg: 05-06-07
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07-10-12 09:57 PM - Post#2246837
In response to nicke
I'm gonna say he beats you off the line but you take the win down the stretch.
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HAL_396
Member
Posts: 2722
Loc: Austin, TX
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07-11-12 02:28 AM - Post#2246858
In response to nicke
With those gears and transmission combo, it will be hard for him to beat you.
1955 Chevy Custom
1966 Biscayne
1966 Caprice Drag Car Inwork
1966 Caprice parts car
2004 Silverado
2007 Impala LS
2009 G5 |
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 capricesport66
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1225
Loc: Lafayette, Louisiana
Reg: 11-02-03
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07-11-12 04:06 AM - Post#2246870
In response to HAL_396
I see the Impala winning. The only advantage he has is the lighter weight.
2 bbl vs 4 bbl
289 vs larger cubic inch
2.73 vs 3.73
Gerald
Lafayette, La.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95648804@N08/
'66 Chevy Caprice 2DR HDTP 496/4L80e/3.73, 20's, Console, Buckets
'06 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 LBZ Duramax/Allison
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 wagonmaster
Moderator
Posts: 8022
Age: 64
Loc: Loganville, Ga.
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 07-11-12 04:08 AM - Post#2246872
In response to capricesport66
No contest, Impala wins!
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BBChevro
Contributor
Posts: 109
Age: 54
Loc: Qld., Australia
Reg: 03-31-12
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07-11-12 05:16 AM - Post#2246892
In response to nicke
I agree with the previous contributors -
The extra torque & gearing should well & truly negate the weight difference.
You've got a massive gearing advantage, even with the 1 inch less tire diameter, the Mustang would only have total gear reduction of about 7:1, where as the Impala has over 10:1.
(+ convertor - both cars)
Plus that extra contact area of rubber, combined with a much more rearward weight distribution gives you another big advantage - TRACTION.
Then there is cam, carb, intake, etc., etc.....
If you lose this one, Nick - you'll have some explaining to do.
Of course, I'm not at all biased.
Mark
Mark
There is light at the end of the tunnel..... hopefully, it's not a train. |
Edited by BBChevro on 07-11-12 05:19 AM. Reason for edit: grammar
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Kamakazi620
Forum Newbie
Posts: 60
Loc: Portland Ore
Reg: 04-05-12
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07-11-12 05:49 AM - Post#2246898
In response to BBChevro
If you lose to the mustardstain you don't know how to drive,impala by a couple car lengths........
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65 pimpala
Contributor
Posts: 102
Age: 45
Loc: Mid Michigan
Reg: 04-08-09
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07-11-12 07:16 AM - Post#2246918
In response to BBChevro
I'm going to go with your Impala. Cut a good light and you'll get him. Torque talks! That and the gear you have. 327's run!
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65 Imp SS
Contributor
Posts: 177
Loc: Central MN
Reg: 09-13-07
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07-11-12 08:58 AM - Post#2246962
In response to 65 pimpala
I think the impala will win however you might be a little heavier than 3600#
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-11-12 09:04 AM - Post#2246966
In response to 65 Imp SS
You are probably correct. I wont be having a full tank of fuel, and I was considering weight without me in it. Also, I am a bit lighter than stock with all the aluminum goodies I have added, and with the swap from the heavy front drums to the lighter discs I have.... It's probably closer to 3800lbs...
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leon phelps
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3048
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
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07-11-12 09:14 AM - Post#2246973
In response to nicke
take some diareutics the night before. 3795 may be the difference between bragging rights for the rest of your life and sulking for perpatuity.
remember if you win, never race him again.
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-11-12 11:41 AM - Post#2247040
In response to leon phelps
You can bet that if I lose, I will be ripping out my 327 and dropping in an LS...
I'm confident it wont come to that though ;-)
-Nick
Edited by nicke on 07-11-12 11:41 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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ed72073
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 431
Age: 39
Loc: Chicago
Reg: 12-08-10
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07-11-12 12:41 PM - Post#2247063
In response to nicke
When you win just beat him by enough then he won't feel as bad.
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 wagonsouth
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 753
Age: 51
Loc: south AL
Reg: 10-25-09
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07-11-12 04:59 PM - Post#2247155
In response to ed72073
Or beat him by enough to make him want to go buy a Chevy! 
Brian B.
1965 Bel Air wagon
cashmere gold over sunburst orange metallic
396, Comp Cams "small thumper"/700R4 w/2200 stall
2006 & 2012, 2013 Hot Rod power tour long hauler
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-11-12 10:38 PM - Post#2247266
In response to wagonsouth
Thats what I'm hoping to do! My new setup is feeling really strong right now!
-Nick
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 ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3067
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
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07-12-12 08:38 AM - Post#2247375
In response to nicke
I also think you'll take him Nick. You've got much more favorable gearing and his stock 289 is going to run out of breath before the 327 will.
Run with 5 gallons of gas, dump in some octane booster, and bump up the timing a little. 
Dan
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-12-12 08:45 AM - Post#2247376
In response to ss3964spd
Great ideas Dan.
I have been playing with my timing recently, as well as carb to get a nice tune on it. I have it at 12 BTDC initial, with 34 total, coming in at about 3k. I always run 92 octane. Seems to be pretty happy with this.
Should I try for more? I have heard of guys going a little higher on initial...
-Nick
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ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3067
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
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07-12-12 08:57 AM - Post#2247384
In response to nicke
Your total isn't bad, initial is a little low. I'd bump initial to 14 which will take total to 36. See how it likes that. If it starts to ping a little a can of booster will take care of that for your "run".
Dan
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-12-12 09:28 AM - Post#2247386
In response to ss3964spd
I might give that a shot. I am also playing with the idea of changing jets/rods on the stock calibrated 1406 carb. I might try one size up, and see what that does for me.
As a side not, my vacuum canister is getting awful close to hitting my intake if I advance it anymore. Is my only option to putt the distributor and drop it in one notch over?
-Nick
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lowtrack
Forum Newbie
Posts: 93
Loc: Mt.Airy,MD
Reg: 03-29-08
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07-12-12 09:48 AM - Post#2247394
In response to nicke
This is what i know.Back in 65 i had an impala SS 327.It was white with Black Interior auto trans.I had a buddy that had a 65 stang 289.A bunch of us used to get together Down at Rollacoaster hills in haynes city fla and race.My buddy never beat me.He could take me off the line by a nose but he never beat me to the line.I raced many a 289 stang on the hills and the best any of them ever did was beat me off the line.I don't believe with your setup that there should be any problems.
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 SS_in_Seattle
"4th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 1519
Reg: 05-08-03
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07-12-12 02:25 PM - Post#2247495
In response to nicke
Nick,
Just for a little extra handicap for your brother... Your wife could voice her concern to his wife, if you win, because it would quadruple your insurance premiums.
You never know how that would go over at their dinner table
Greg
1965 Impala SS L78
1966 Impala SS Convertible
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Lead sled
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1515
Age: 53
Loc: WALTON,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
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07-12-12 08:10 PM - Post#2247611
In response to nicke
I would put my money on your SS at the finish line. 
51 BelAir 2drht 52 trim.Basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405,Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.I just finished all the bodywork/paint myself.2,1st place trophies so far
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ImpBiscuit
Senior Member
Posts: 1403
Loc: Louisiana
Reg: 02-08-03
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07-13-12 08:47 AM - Post#2247756
In response to Lead sled
Should be fun. When you get in front of him just stay out a car link and have your brake lights on. Then tell him you got hard on the brakes so he would not fell bad.
Now watch him start buying go faster parts.
I think more timing would be better. Some SB with small cams I could run around 45. Your gearing looks very nice.
John
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ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3067
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
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07-13-12 11:28 AM - Post#2247820
In response to nicke
I might give that a shot. I am also playing with the idea of changing jets/rods on the stock calibrated 1406 carb. I might try one size up, and see what that does for me.
As a side not, my vacuum canister is getting awful close to hitting my intake if I advance it anymore. Is my only option to putt the distributor and drop it in one notch over?
-Nick
Before you change rods and jets have a look at the plugs. If they look good leave the carb alone.
Yup, all you need to do is pull the distributor up and rotate the rotor CCW one tooth, then drop it back in. If the vac can is that close to the manifold runner with only 12* initiial I think you may be one tooth off already.
Side note: I learned a long time ago that you don't need to pull the distributor all the way out to move it a tooth. If you lift it up just far enough to clear the cam gear, but still feel the dist and cam gear teeth catching, you can turn the rotor one tooth and drop it back in and the oil pump drive will line right up. So basically, you pull it up, move it a tooth, drop it back in to rotate the oil pump drive, lift, move, drop, repeat until it goes all the way around. It goes really quick once you get the hang and feel of it.
Trouble is, this only works in one direction - it's either CCW or CW, I just don't remember which!
Dan
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-13-12 12:03 PM - Post#2247830
In response to ss3964spd
I might give that a shot. I am also playing with the idea of changing jets/rods on the stock calibrated 1406 carb. I might try one size up, and see what that does for me.
As a side not, my vacuum canister is getting awful close to hitting my intake if I advance it anymore. Is my only option to putt the distributor and drop it in one notch over?
-Nick
Before you change rods and jets have a look at the plugs. If they look good leave the carb alone.
Yup, all you need to do is pull the distributor up and rotate the rotor CCW one tooth, then drop it back in. If the vac can is that close to the manifold runner with only 12* initiial I think you may be one tooth off already.
Side note: I learned a long time ago that you don't need to pull the distributor all the way out to move it a tooth. If you lift it up just far enough to clear the cam gear, but still feel the dist and cam gear teeth catching, you can turn the rotor one tooth and drop it back in and the oil pump drive will line right up. So basically, you pull it up, move it a tooth, drop it back in to rotate the oil pump drive, lift, move, drop, repeat until it goes all the way around. It goes really quick once you get the hang and feel of it.
Trouble is, this only works in one direction - it's either CCW or CW, I just don't remember which!
Dan
Thanks Dan. Yea, my plugs look pretty good, but I am trying to cure a very slight off-idle hesitation. It is only off idle under hard acceleration. After reasearching some more, before messing with jets, I am going to swap out step up spring to a bit stiffer to see if that helps.
Yea, I'll will be adjusting the distributor the way you mentioned. I should keep the rotor in the exact same spot when I drop it right back in right?
Thanks
Nick
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ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3067
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
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07-13-12 12:34 PM - Post#2247836
In response to nicke
No, you need to end up with the rotor one tooth back from where it is.
The distributor turns clockwise when the engine is running. If you pull the cap and the rotor is point to, say, 7 o'clock, you need to make it point to 8 o'clock.
In other words, before loosening the hold down pull the cap and note where the rotor is pointing. You can even use a marker to make a mark on the edge of the body where the cap will cover it when it's reinstalled. The pull the body up while trying to keep it in the same spot. then start moving the rotr one tooth at a time like I explained above. When you're finished and the body is still in the same location you started then rotor needs to be pointing to 8 instead of 7 o'clock. Then, if you move the body so the mark you made lines up with the rotor again you'll see that the vac adv can has now moved away from the intake runner. If you could move the body exactly you wouldn't even need to re-set the timing.
Dan
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-13-12 12:37 PM - Post#2247837
In response to ss3964spd
No, you need to end up with the rotor one tooth back from where it is.
The distributor turns clockwise when the engine is running. If you pull the cap and the rotor is point to, say, 7 o'clock, you need to make it point to 8 o'clock.
In other words, before loosening the hold down pull the cap and note where the rotor is pointing. You can even use a marker to make a mark on the edge of the body where the cap will cover it when it's reinstalled. The pull the body up while trying to keep it in the same spot. then start moving the rotr one tooth at a time like I explained above. When you're finished and the body is still in the same location you started then rotor needs to be pointing to 8 instead of 7 o'clock. Then, if you move the body so the mark you made lines up with the rotor again you'll see that the vac adv can has now moved away from the intake runner. If you could move the body exactly you wouldn't even need to re-set the timing.
Dan
Gotcha... That does make sense. Thank you!
-Nick
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ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3067
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
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07-13-12 12:38 PM - Post#2247838
In response to ss3964spd
And oh, before you dive into anything else to see if you can cure the stumble do the timing work first. A couple more degrees of initial just may do the trick for that.
Dan
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
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nicke
Contributor
Posts: 643
Age: 29
Loc: Spokane, Washington
Reg: 01-06-12
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07-13-12 12:41 PM - Post#2247840
In response to ss3964spd
My thoughts exactly. Thanks again and I'll let you know how it goes!
-Nick
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ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3067
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
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07-13-12 12:50 PM - Post#2247844
In response to nicke
No prob.
You'll get the feel of moving the distributor gear one tooth at a time. you'll be pulling up on the body little by little with one hand while trying to turn the rotor with the other. Once you've pulled it high enough so that the gear teeth slip past each other you'll actually be able to feel the next tooth and you can drop the whole mess back down to get the oil pump shaft to re-align with the oil pump drive tang in the bottom of the distributor gear. If you find the distributor won't drop all the way back down try going the other way with the rotor - one tooth at a time.
Once you get the hang of it it sure beats removing the distributor and having to use a screw driver to turn the oil pump shaft.
Dan
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
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