Adelaide65SS
Forum Newbie
Posts: 25
Loc: South Australia
Reg: 06-20-11
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07-08-12 12:48 AM - Post#2245610
Hi all,
Have purchased an engine crane and I am all ready to lift the big block and auto trans out as my restoration progresses.
I plan to lift using a chain attached to a few exhaust manifold bolts.
My question is can I use the existing bolts or should I get stronger bolts.
If so what is the size and thread?
Thanks
Andrew
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leon phelps
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3018
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
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07-08-12 02:10 AM - Post#2245613
In response to Adelaide65SS
why not just run a chain through the exhaust manifold itself and picking up on the exhaust?
Just find some grade 8 bolts that fit through the chain and the heads are enough to not pull through (use washers if needed).
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Adelaide65SS
Forum Newbie
Posts: 25
Loc: South Australia
Reg: 06-20-11
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07-08-12 06:32 AM - Post#2245646
In response to leon phelps
Just to clarify, you are indicating that the chain can run under each exhaust manifold front to rear, and then collected above and bolted together to then hook on to crane.
I understand the load is thus spread over 16 bolts via the manifold, which can support it ?
Unfortunately the bolts in the exhaust to manifold connections are rusted so I was trying to avoid cutting the pipes and thought I could lift the engine away leaving the manifolds and pipes 'behind'.
However in playing around with the chain I have found that I cannot move the drivers side manifold far enough away from the head to get a chain and bolt back in as the steering unit restricts the lateral movement of the manifiold.
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66cayne
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1801
Reg: 08-06-08
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07-08-12 07:02 AM - Post#2245656
In response to Adelaide65SS
Your existing manifold bolts are fine. The real trick is getting the auto trans clear of the fire wall as you lift it out. It needs to come out at a fairly steep angle. You should have a helper that can work with the rear of the trans to help it clear
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leon phelps
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3018
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
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07-08-12 08:26 AM - Post#2245675
In response to 66cayne
just go between any two ports on the manifold and wrap around it then up on both sides. you will be choking it. disconnect the manifold at the donuts.
a 3/8 bolt can hold something like 9k pounds. if you spread it out over 16 bolts and consider the engine/trans to weigh 2k you are well in engineering saftey range. even if the grade 8 bolts were only grade 5 then you would be down to 4k pounds. I think you see my point.
You will need to remove the crossmember for the trans to make it easier.
expect the trans to leak fluid at the yoke due to age.
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maddjeff
Forum Newbie
Posts: 79
Age: 46
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Reg: 07-07-12
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07-08-12 09:45 AM - Post#2245692
In response to Adelaide65SS
You should pick up an engine lift plate, they are cheap and really make the job a lot easier.
Here's an example of one:
Jegs Engine Lift Plate
They sell them on ebay or most performance shops. Shoot, I think I've even seen them at Autozone and Pepboys before.
Depending on where you attach the chain you can pull the engine out horizontal or at an angle, making it a one-person job. If you have a welder it's pretty easy to fab one yourself as well.
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mjc1
Senior Member
Posts: 1193
Loc: Burlington Ontario Canada
Reg: 09-15-04
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07-08-12 10:01 AM - Post#2245697
In response to maddjeff
Use a engine tilting tool. You'll appreciate the adjustability on the fly unlike the plate style.
With this crate motor I used the bolt holes in the heads, but with the earlier motor I'd use the 4 corner intake bolt positions using longer bolts with washers.
Link
Edited by mjc1 on 07-08-12 10:14 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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maddjeff
Forum Newbie
Posts: 79
Age: 46
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Reg: 07-07-12
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07-08-12 10:47 AM - Post#2245713
In response to mjc1
Agreed, those are nicer than a plate.
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HAL_396
Member
Posts: 2706
Loc: Austin, TX
Reg: 11-16-06
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07-08-12 02:37 PM - Post#2245784
In response to maddjeff
Ditto. I used a leveler when I did mine with a 4 speed.
1955 Chevy Custom
1966 Biscayne
1966 Caprice Drag Car Inwork
1966 Caprice parts car
2004 Silverado
2007 Impala LS
2009 G5 |
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 jumbojim
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 315
Age: 66
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 09-25-11
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07-08-12 04:32 PM - Post#2245820
In response to Adelaide65SS
Why not disconnect the transmission before you remove the engine. A bit more work, but much easier to get the engine out. ( Not as heavy, and don't have to worry about the steep angle or oil leaking out trans). Remove trans. later. Jim
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Allan In NE
Contributor
Posts: 897
Reg: 12-27-11
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07-08-12 04:34 PM - Post#2245821
In response to leon phelps
Get that transmission unhooked first!
Allan
| Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist |
Edited by Allan In NE on 07-08-12 04:34 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1592
Reg: 12-29-02
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07-08-12 08:12 PM - Post#2245911
In response to Adelaide65SS
I've found that removing the trans first and then putting a lifting plate on the intake and pulling it out works best for me when working alone. But then, I also do it so I can pull the SB out of my Impala without removing the hood.
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slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 669
Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
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07-08-12 08:43 PM - Post#2245933
In response to 65_Impala
Not sure how involved your restoration is but I like to remove the frt core support and sheet metal if Im tearing the car down,sure makes removing and installing the engine/trans combo that way.
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Adelaide65SS
Forum Newbie
Posts: 25
Loc: South Australia
Reg: 06-20-11
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07-09-12 05:28 AM - Post#2246014
In response to slammed1
All sheet metal is off the front so access is good. Looks like removing the transmission first is the way to go as I can get to all things easily.
Once all bolts 6? are removed and linkages disconnected the block should move easily forward away from the transmission I assume.
To then remove transmission is that simply a matter of supporting it whilst the crossmemmber is removed and then the unit can be lowered.
I cannot undo the rusted bolts at the 'donuts' so I will need to cut the pipes.
Will probably go for headers on rebuild so I guess these first exhaust sections are expendable.
Thanks all for your advice.
Andrew
Australia
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jumbojim
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 315
Age: 66
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 09-25-11
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07-09-12 06:10 AM - Post#2246038
In response to Adelaide65SS
Andrew, its not a bad idea to remove the torque converter bolts before you pull the engine. (Converter stays with the trans). Saves cleaning up a mess of trans. oil everywhere. Make sure converter does not fall off later. Best to tie it on to the transmission. Jim
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 ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3014
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
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07-09-12 08:03 AM - Post#2246071
In response to jumbojim
If all the sheet metal is off the front then I'd pull the engine with the trans - just a no brainer to me.
Get a leveler. Small investment, big return. But buy a good one - the cheap ones arn't worth the money.
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
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slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 669
Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
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07-09-12 04:21 PM - Post#2246282
In response to ss3964spd
Im also thinking since the frt end is off remove it as one piece,since you wont have to get the combo up at too much of an angle to go over the radiator core support it will all slide out real easy.
This is assuming you have the radiator and core support removed.
Mine looked like this 2 days ago then I removed the radiator and core support as I may pull the motor/trans together myself in a few days.
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1592
Reg: 12-29-02
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07-09-12 06:25 PM - Post#2246345
In response to ss3964spd
Ya, if the sheetmetal is off then just pull it all together. Put a plug or even tape a bag over the tailshaft to keep oil from leaking out.
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jumbojim
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 315
Age: 66
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 09-25-11
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07-10-12 06:26 AM - Post#2246487
In response to Adelaide65SS
Yes if all the front sheetmetal is off, you should have no trouble pulling the engine and trans. out as a unit. Jim
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 50hotrod
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 364
Age: 56
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
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07-11-12 08:16 AM - Post#2246949
In response to jumbojim
Jack the rear of the car up as far as you can get it and place it on jack stands.
Much less of an extreme angle is needed to clear the radiator core support.
Now pull the engine and trans as a unit.
Well, you know what's wrong with the world today
People done gone and put their Bible's away
They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land
"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels
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slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 669
Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
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07-12-12 07:09 PM - Post#2247587
In response to 50hotrod
this is a not so good pic of mine with the core support removed,makes it so much easier to remove the eng/trans as a lump this way.
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leon phelps
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3018
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
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07-13-12 04:17 AM - Post#2247689
In response to slammed1
with the radiator support and body off, it was a little simpler.
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