Stenquist
Forum Newbie
Posts: 5
Age: 65
Loc: Bloomfield HIlls, MI
Reg: 07-03-12
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07-03-12 06:16 PM - Post#2244186
I thought removing the power steering control valve from my 55 would be simple, and it was until it came down to separating the valve from the pitman arm. I couldn't get it off with a tie-rod pickle fork or a ball joint separator. I guess I'll have to buy a puller. Anyone know if a standard pitman arm puller will separate the control valve from the small end of the pitman arm?
BTW, I was a member here about ten years ago but got too busy to keep up. I'm semi-retired now, so I figure its time to come back.
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Jalapeno
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 8483
Loc: The Republic of Texas
Reg: 04-30-00
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07-03-12 10:38 PM - Post#2244277
In response to Stenquist
Welcome back.
No need to purchase a new tool (although it's always a good excuse). You need a small pitman arm puller, you can "rent" one from just about any major auto parts store for nothing. Make sure you get the small one not the large one, the large one is for the other end of the pitman.
You can also use a 3 jaw gear puller if that's already in your toolbox.
If the pitman arm's been on there a while it'll take a bit of force, but when it lets go it'll pop off with a bang.
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 WagonMan
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1265
Age: 65
Loc: SW Kansas
Reg: 10-26-04
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07-04-12 08:42 AM - Post#2244400
In response to Jalapeno
Welcome back.
No need to purchase a new tool (although it's always a good excuse). You need a small pitman arm puller, you can "rent" one from just about any major auto parts store for nothing. Make sure you get the small one not the large one, the large one is for the other end of the pitman.
You can also use a 3 jaw gear puller if that's already in your toolbox.
If the pitman arm's been on there a while it'll take a bit of force, but when it lets go it'll pop off with a bang.
I've always tightened the puller then tapped lightly on the head of the puller screw, and then keep repeating this process until it comes off. It doesn't come off with quite the force that just the puller does. Don't get carried away with the hammer as you could damage parts on the other end of the pitman shaft.
Charles
57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
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53 Chevy 3100 (bought '96)
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Stenquist
Forum Newbie
Posts: 5
Age: 65
Loc: Bloomfield HIlls, MI
Reg: 07-03-12
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07-04-12 04:02 PM - Post#2244534
In response to WagonMan
Thanks for the help, guys. I'm hoping to finish the removal job tomorrow morning, then send the core to My Old Chevy in exchanged for a sleeved rebuilt.
Paul
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Jalapeno
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 8483
Loc: The Republic of Texas
Reg: 04-30-00
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07-05-12 09:00 PM - Post#2244952
In response to Stenquist
Is My Old Chevy near you? Not heard of them, do you have a link? Besides sleeving (make sure they do both ends!) what else do they replace in the valve? The ball stud and the seats that trap it are wear and tear items that any good rebuilder should replace, ask them specifically about those parts. Have they given you a price?
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Stenquist
Forum Newbie
Posts: 5
Age: 65
Loc: Bloomfield HIlls, MI
Reg: 07-03-12
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07-13-12 07:13 PM - Post#2247948
In response to Jalapeno
Sorry for the confusion. It's East Coast Chevy, a well-know supplier. I wasn't able to release the pitman arm front he control valve -- broke a tool trying. So since I had to take the car to my guy, who has a hydraulic separator, I decided to buy the converted '70 Vette control valve. Almost twice as expensive, about 450 I believe, but it made the swap a one-day deal. It took two guys working on a lift with the hydraulic tool 1 1/2 hours to get the pitman arm off. The bolt had been way overtorqued. Drove the car this afternoon, the new valve works well. No leaks!
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Stenquist
Forum Newbie
Posts: 5
Age: 65
Loc: Bloomfield HIlls, MI
Reg: 07-03-12
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07-13-12 07:15 PM - Post#2247950
In response to Stenquist
BTW, East Coast Chevy gave me a ten percent discount,so the piece was actually a bit less than $400.
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