ghoofie
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4
Reg: 07-03-12
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07-03-12 05:58 PM - Post#2244168
I recently had a new water pump installed. Since then, oh, on my 56 Chevy 210, with a 265 V8 engine, while engine is still warming up while driving, the temp gauge goes all the way to FULL hot, then , I guess, the thermostat finally opens and it drops down to what I consider it's normal operating temp, about mid-way on gauge.
I'm quite sure the mechanic didn't put in a new thermostat. Does anyone have any ideas about that ? It's kinda scary to see the gauge start to show hot, but it comes right back down, with one minute.
Thanks,
Ned
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 acardon
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 9454
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
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07-03-12 06:13 PM - Post#2244183
In response to ghoofie
Sounds like you have a bad thermostat, replace it, there not expensive. Why was the water pump replaced?
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
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ghoofie
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4
Reg: 07-03-12
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07-03-12 07:34 PM - Post#2244211
In response to acardon
Water pump was making a LOUD metal scraping noise, (bearing?) and leaking coolant.
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 MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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07-04-12 08:30 AM - Post#2244391
In response to ghoofie
The t-stat is probably sticking closed until the spring finally forces it to pop open. A good quality t-stat is Robertshaw. Notice its beefier construction and larger diameter opening for coolant to pass through. (Stewart-modified Robertshaw is pictured.)
[image] [/image]
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 07-06-12 09:47 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2474
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
Reg: 11-09-01
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07-04-12 06:46 PM - Post#2244582
In response to MikeB
Mine has been doing this for 3 years now. I have gotten used to it. I don't want to open the thermostate housing since its chrome and has a big o-ring and works fine after initial opening that day.
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 6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1864
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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07-05-12 10:59 AM - Post#2244735
In response to ghoofie
When I replace a thermostat, I like to drill a 1/8" hole in the flange - between the inside and outside edges. This will act as an AIR BLEED when refilling the system to eliminate air pockets in the heads.
A 180-degree t-stat will be your best bet!
Welcome to CT Ned! Take a minute to fill out your profile so we know a wee bit about you! 
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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ThumperNZ
Contributor
Posts: 504
Loc: New Plymouth, New Zealand
Reg: 07-08-07
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07-05-12 02:52 PM - Post#2244813
In response to 6-bangertim
I had that happen to one of our 57's. I followed advice that when refilling the cooling system, take the thermostat housing off, then fill until it is right at the flange level, install the thermostat, housing and top rad hose and complete the fill. Despite having a vent hole in the thermostat, for some reason it still created an air pocket. After the housing removal fill, no more trouble since.
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YOUNG57
Contributor
Posts: 462
Loc: Franklin TN
Reg: 12-06-10
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07-05-12 04:05 PM - Post#2244838
In response to ghoofie
I recently installed a high volume Edelbrock 8810 water pump with very high volume original style down flow radiator in my 57 to help cool this larger than original SBC. I reinstalled the 180º Robertshaw T-stat with a chrome O-ring housing.
It didn’t before but now it does what you are talking about. On initial start-up it heats up slowly and goes almost to HOT before coming back and staying at mid gauge (180º-190º). But since it stays below 200º in traffic I’m happy.
Also my heater stops heating after a few minutes of operation. I think it might be the higher volume/pressure holding/pushing the T-stat and heater control valves closed. Maybe the T-stat has enough spring to over come the pressure but the heater control valve does not.
I put a restrictor in the heater return (water pump nipple) but it didn’t help so I’m planning on putting another restrictor in the heat supply (intake nipple).
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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07-06-12 09:44 AM - Post#2245101
In response to YOUNG57
Also my heater stops heating after a few minutes of operation. I think it might be the higher volume/pressure holding/pushing the T-stat and heater control valves closed.
I'm not sure what type heater control valve you have, but mine (aftermarket) is a ball valve that can't be moved by water pump pressure or flow. Even with a butterfly valve, I can't see water pump pressure forcing it open or closed, unless the inner cable slides freely in the cable housing, letting the butterfly flop around.
As far as the coolant temp rise, I'd guess your Robertson t-stat is sticking. A small bypass hole will help, but may keep engine temp too low on very cold days.
My 55 used to have a Stewart-modified Robertshaw t-stat with 2 (or maybe 3?) small holes. It worked just fine most of the time, but on cold days (around 30-40 degrees here in North Texas), the coolant temp would take forever to get up to 170. On really cold days it would hover around 150-160. Internal combustion engines are most efficient around 185-190. I installed another Stewart-modified t-stat w/o holes and it's worked great for 3-4 years now.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 07-06-12 09:46 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24728
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
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07-06-12 02:12 PM - Post#2245193
In response to MikeB
An air pocket or lack of a bypass will do that also. Since this is the stock forum, there should not be a problem with a lack of a bypass. Typically that occurs with an engine that has Vortec heads and/or block, since those don't have a bypass.
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