 inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-30-12 04:05 PM - Post#2243047
These sheet metal OEM type door wire protecters I link to here came to my attention in another thread.
http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-power-window-do o...
Of course the supplier states they are the best. I am wondering if any of you have them & what you think is the best. This is for my daily driver so functional means more than appearance to me. I'm gonna move up to power windows soon & would like to get it right the first time.
Thanks, Doug
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Pistol
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-30-12 04:51 PM - Post#2243067
In response to inline0_0
I have those on my car, they were a little bit of work to install, you will probably have to take your doors off to install them, the hole in the A pillar has to be real close for it to work, it does leave a big hole in the pillar, and the wires have to have a half loop in the inside of the pillar for it to work well, I could get you a picture of the outside of the door jam and the pillar but as for how the wire is set in the pillar I cant help you, I haven't had any problems with it so far, knock on wood
Pete
Awl speeling misteaks r myn
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 Charlie57
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06-30-12 07:23 PM - Post#2243120
In response to inline0_0
I am still trying to decide about looms also. I can not decide between the ones you are talking about and this style. The stainless do seem to be a lot easier to install.
Charlie
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 tinlizydogs
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 184
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06-30-12 07:58 PM - Post#2243133
In response to Charlie57
I've had both kinds. I like the black OEM style better. The braided ones "ZIP" when you open and close the door. I think the braid will eventually wear out. The sheetmetal kind work fine. You have to be carefull when you bend the tabs over. I put some large shrink tube over the wires after they were wrapped with elect. tape just for added protection. I also put some "caterpillar" flex around the hole in the pillar so there is no bare metal edge.
LB
In the back seat of my 60 chevy..I used my shields but neither one cared, we were gettin' our share.  |
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 farrel 57
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-01-12 05:35 AM - Post#2243220
In response to tinlizydogs
I went with the original style wire looms.They were not to bad to install with out removing the doors.
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Pistol
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-01-12 05:49 AM - Post#2243225
In response to farrel 57
They were not to bad to install with out removing the doors
I didn't know if they could be done with the doors on, it seemed to me it would be easier with the doors off, the car wasn't painted at the time
Pete
Awl speeling misteaks r myn
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inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-01-12 10:09 AM - Post#2243308
In response to Pistol
Thanks to ALL you guys for the good info. I have decided to use the OEM style metal tubes.
Farrel - your pic is a million words - could you elaborate on what style drill or saw you used? I'm guessing a rt. angle drill. I was already decided for that style wire protector & was resigned to pulling the doors to do it. Is that a relay that your wires are plugged into?
Thanks Again - ChevyTalk is great!
Doug
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farrel 57
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-01-12 04:33 PM - Post#2243433
In response to inline0_0
The relays are fot the vintage air and I did use a right angle drill with a short bitt on the door. There are several posts with the measurements for the hole sizes and location.If you can't find them I'll look it up for you.
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inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Loc: Arizona desert
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07-01-12 06:06 PM - Post#2243471
In response to farrel 57
I've got this link with dimensions from Ecklers, http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/pdf/classicche v...
It was posted previously in the stock forum & is what got me thinking about this to begin with. Hopefully that & a rt. angle drill should do it.
Thanks, Doug
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Belair-o
Forum Newbie
Posts: 80
Reg: 03-26-07
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07-02-12 05:06 AM - Post#2243574
In response to inline0_0
You might want to search for "Door Conduit Position", this was a topic that was extensively covered previously. There, CRUZINJP provided a link to pictures he took during his install of the stock looms with the doors on. I found his pictures to be most helpful, and following the path he blazed, was able to get my stock looms on without too much pain, and without pulling the doors. Doug
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inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-02-12 09:28 AM - Post#2243612
In response to Belair-o
Thanks, that really helps.
One Doug to another, Ha ha
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bihili
Senior Member
Posts: 386
Loc: Missouri (K.C.)
Reg: 10-21-04
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07-02-12 11:13 AM - Post#2243632
In response to inline0_0
Ralph Roberts
[url]http://56chevy.com/cgi-bin/find.pl[/url]
Part Number
11355
The factory has the dimple already made into the pillar.
Mine were installed without removing door.
Show Me
1957-427-177-6-410 |
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cnbell
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-02-12 12:54 PM - Post#2243658
In response to bihili
Nice... 
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inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Loc: Arizona desert
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07-02-12 02:38 PM - Post#2243694
In response to cnbell
Great drilling diagrams - Thanks. I assume you also ran a rt. angle drill back thru the cowl side & into the door? I have the cowl side insets & dimples in pretty good shape. But, the doors are another story. I also have a rt. angle drill - one old monster made for wall stud elect. & plumbing hole drilling. Maybe time to get a Makita 3/8" one.
Doug
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 motthollow
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-02-12 08:21 PM - Post#2243811
In response to inline0_0
Another idea for door wiring (P-windows, speakers, etc.)is to use the "ball contacts" that mount in the door jamb and the door. I'll be putting them in my '56 because the wiring that is in there now is for s**t. I used these contacts in the rear door of my '29 sedan delivery for a third brake light and I like them a lot. The only drawback is when the door is open, there is no contact.... therefore no power.
"None of my cars will ever be finished... just that some are further along than others."
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bihili
Senior Member
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07-03-12 11:25 AM - Post#2244041
In response to inline0_0
No right handed drill necessary.
Drill the holes in the door by putting drill in kick panel area after drilling pillar.
Drill bit goes through hole made in pillar.
Show Me
1957-427-177-6-410 |
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inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1395
Loc: Arizona desert
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07-03-12 11:46 AM - Post#2244048
In response to bihili
Thanks, this gets better all the time.
There should be a tech. archives to put all this good stuff in.
Doug
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Rick_L
Honored Member
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07-03-12 04:54 PM - Post#2244136
In response to inline0_0
A good thread with detailed info.
There's on more choice. Several here have routed the wires through the hinge, hidiing them. MP&C, Henrys57wagon, and Chevynut each had their own twist on this, if I remember correctly.
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Pistol
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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07-03-12 06:04 PM - Post#2244175
In response to inline0_0
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...
Pete
Awl speeling misteaks r myn
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