AMWRX
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06-28-12 10:09 PM - Post#2242455
G'day Gents,
I would like to kindly ask you if you could help me with wiring a Holley HP EFI with a Mallory ignition system. Here some details on my setup:
-> 1972 Holden (Australian original, now Chevy) 1 Tonner, 308 CUI 'VL' motor
-> Holley HP EFI system (P/N 550-412)
-> Mallory 42-Series Distributor
-> Mallory Hyfire6AL2 multi-spark discharge ignition system
-> Mallory Promaster 30440 ignition coil
Holdens were made in Australia, Holden is now GM. I would like to use the Holley EFI to control the ignition timing. According to Mallory, the 42-S/S-Series distributor has a 'magnetic breakerless' timing module. Here the catalogue page:
The Holley instructions for the 550-412 (document 199R10507rev.pdf) note that the following setup can be used to control timing:
The diagram clearly depicts a magnetic pick-up type crank sensor/distributor wiring with 2 wires (and a shield). All magnetic pick-up’s that I’ve ever seen have two wires: typically a green one and a violet one just like in the above diagram. The strange thing is that this Mallory distributor has three wires, even though Mallory states it is equipped with a 'magnetic pick-up' type timing sensor. The 3 wires of the distributor are:
Mallory wire: RED: 12 Volts
Mallory wire: GREEN: trigger
Mallory wire: BROWN: GROUND
This is the wiring diagram of the Mallory 42-S/S-Series distributor (wired with Hyfire6AL2 multi-spark discharge ignition system and a Promaster 30440 ignition coil)
It looks to me as if the Mallory 42-S/S-Series distributor is wired-up internally like a Hall-effect timing sensor. I've never seen a magnetic pick-up distributor with a Hall-effect sensor type wiring. The Holley HP EFI manual also specifies how to wire a Hall-effect sensor:
This document shows how a trigger wheel/hall effect timing sensor can work with the HP EFI to control the timing. So my question is if any of the above makes sense to you. Is this distributor indeed wired-up like a Hall-effect sensor and does it connect to the Holley HP EFI just like a Hall-effect trigger?
I hope someone with more experience than me can throw in a few comments,
Cheers!
Edited by AMWRX on 06-28-12 10:13 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Dale_Holley
Member
Posts: 350
Loc: Dallas, TX.
Reg: 11-10-03
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06-28-12 10:53 PM - Post#2242465
In response to AMWRX
I think to answer your question correctly you need to know if this Mallory series 42 distributor has a electronic module in between the magnetic pickup and the external wires. I checked the instructions for one of these units but it showed both with and without the electronic modules.
Your picture says it has a module in it, I don't think you can treat this as a hall effect sensor. If you remove the module you might be able to use it as a magnetic trigger.
To use the ECU timing control you need to have the ability to lock both advances in the distributor and adjust the rotor phasing by moving the rotor or cap to line up better when the magnetic or hall effect is triggering the HP ECU. If the distributor is not locked out the centrifugal and vacuum advance will cause problems for the ECU while it is also adjusting the timing.
The better solution for computer controlled distributors would be something like the Mallory 8048204.
You might be able to get a used one from a 90's Chevy TBI car or Truck in salvage / wrecking yard. I am not sure just how available these type EFI Chevy distributors are in Australia
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AMWRX
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Posts: 20
Age: 53
Loc: South Africa
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06-28-12 11:16 PM - Post#2242471
In response to Dale_Holley
My preferred way of doing this would be to hook up an oscilloscope to the distributor and see what the signal (i.e. Voltage) between the GREEN and BROWN cables form the dstributor are.
However, I would also need to know what the voltage is that the Holley HP EFI expects in the input "A - CRANK INPUT"
I understand that I have to lock-out both vacuum and mechanical advance. Adjusting the cap will take a little craftsmanship but I can get this done easily. The distributor rotates 180 degrees per motor revolution so if I seek to adjust timing by 50 degrees throughout the rev range I need to make sure that the rotor closes the gaps in the distributor for at least 50/2=25 degrees. This may require a custom rotor with a longer nose....
What is the total advance range the HP EFI can do? Does it matter where the initial distributor is set to? The initial setting should not matter (if the EFI is smart enough)
Also, as far as I know, the Chevy distributors don't fit the Holden motors.
Thanks
Edited by AMWRX on 06-28-12 11:17 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Dale_Holley
Member
Posts: 350
Loc: Dallas, TX.
Reg: 11-10-03
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06-28-12 11:34 PM - Post#2242477
In response to AMWRX
I was afraid that the chevy stuff might not fit. I had to go looking for some Holden 308 motor info and saw that it was close, but not a Small Block Chevy.
You might want to download the HP EFI software and take a look at the ignition config options as to what it can do. I think for the hall effect it is looking for a digital rising or digital falling signal change and not so much a specific voltage change.
I am willing to bet your oscilloscope will should 0v or ground when the trigger output is activated just like the points systems operate to trigger the coil or spark box. I doubt that it will switch from 12v to 0v.
I think the ECU's can adjust for 50 or 60 degrees of total advance. Usually the process is to set the ECU to a fixed timing amount let's say 10 degrees and then adjust the distributor so its base timing matches at the balancer to the 10 degrees that the ECU is outputting. Once those are in sync there is not much more to setup on the hardware besides the rotor phasing.
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AMWRX
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06-28-12 11:48 PM - Post#2242478
In response to Dale_Holley
Thank you so much for that info. The only way the HP EFI can read a signal is a change in voltage. As you said it may not be a change from 0 to 12 Volts, it may just be a change from 0 to 1 Volt or something - let's see
In an ideal world, Holley would have made the EFI such that the triggering threshold voltage level can be set in the software. This is not difficult to do electronics- and software-wise.
I will go ahead and measure the output signal. I also have a Mallory Power Filter (Mallory 29351) installed right after the distributor. This unit contains a capacitor which softens-out any voltage spikes. I put it in after I have blown out two coils (cheap coils, not the Promaster 30440 coil which literally can't be blown out) when I first put the system in. Blowing a coil requires much more than 12V ... so from this I would speculate that I will indeed measure something around 12 Volts.
Anyway, tomorrow I should know more!
Cheers
Edited by AMWRX on 06-28-12 11:51 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Dale_Holley
Member
Posts: 350
Loc: Dallas, TX.
Reg: 11-10-03
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06-28-12 11:58 PM - Post#2242480
In response to AMWRX
The HP EFI can also be triggered from a magnetic pickup but that pickup being inside the distributor cap is not located in the best place because of RFI interference from the high voltage going through rotor and top of the cap.
Can you run a crank trigger wheel? Even if that is magnetic pickup it will be far enough away from the spark energy to not cause a problem. A better crank trigger option would be the Holley 60 tooth crank trigger.
Holley has blank wheels or you can even get custom trigger wheels made to fit your balancer.
Danny and myself have made custom crank trigger and distributorless setups for our EFI systems since Holley does not have off the shelf kits for our engines.
Take a look at out crank trigger threads.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/238915/
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/248215
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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06-29-12 03:02 AM - Post#2242489
In response to AMWRX
If your distributor has a 3-wire sensor (12V, ground & signal), it's a Hall-Effect sensor.
Remove any internal ignition module, and wire the Hall-Effect sensor directly to the ECU (Figure 13).
In the EFI software,
Crank Sensor: select "1 pulse/fire", Digital Falling & 60° Ignition Reference Angle.
Cam sensor: select "Not Used".
Output Setup: select "Points Output" (ignition box) & 1.5 msec Dwell Time.
I ran this exact setup before I upgraded to sequential EFI & DIS ignition.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/85220/thread/12 7767... (My Dominator EFI system)
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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AMWRX
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06-29-12 05:13 AM - Post#2242521
In response to Danny Cabral
I've hooked up the Oscilloscope on the Mallory distributor of my HQ. The oscilloscope measures voltage between ground (BROWN) and the hall-effect trigger output (GREEN).
The Hyfire6 AL2 ignition box is NOT wired up - I just wanted to see what the distributor trigger signal looks like. To measure something useful, the hall-effect trigger output (GREEN) cable is obviously disconnected from the coil (Green wire goes only into oscilloscope). Here is what I get:
with the Mallory Power Filter (P/N) hooked up:
without the Mallory Power Filter (P/N):
The hall-effect sensor goes to -0.15 Volts and then, within 10ms to, +0.15 Volts when the distributor triggers. On a longer time-scale the signal looks like this:
The signal is roughly 10Hz, the hall-effect sensor in the distributor gives 4 pulses per motor revolution I assume so the starter turns over the motor at a frequency of 2.5 Hz or 150 RPM. There's not much difference between using the Mallory Power Filter and not using it.
Now the only other thing I'd like to know is: what is the trigger voltage threshold level in the Holley EFI set to? The voltage jump will obviously be different if I remove the ignition module from the distributor (which is in there right now). I don't really understand why I need to remove the ignition module from the distributor though. This Mallory distributor can be wired up with either the HYFIRE6 AL2 CDI ignition box or without it. If the ignition box is NOT wired up, the distributor obviously needs an ignition module. When the ignition box is wired up, the ignition module does not have to be removed - even though it has no real function as now the ignition box is taking over the control of the ignition.
Any ideas?
Edited by AMWRX on 06-29-12 05:21 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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06-29-12 06:10 AM - Post#2242545
In response to AMWRX
I don't really understand why I need to remove the ignition module from the distributor though.
The Holley ECU doesn't need the ignition module (see Figure 13), however, it may work with it.
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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AMWRX
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Posts: 20
Age: 53
Loc: South Africa
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06-29-12 05:22 PM - Post#2242756
In response to Danny Cabral
Sounds good man! Does anyone know what the trigger voltage threshold level of the Holley HP EFI on port "A - CRANK INPUT"?
Danny you mentioned the software can be set to "digital falling". What threshold do they understand as digital? 0.7V? TTL?
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AMWRX
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06-29-12 09:56 PM - Post#2242833
In response to Danny Cabral
Danny I've read through the work you did on your car - the EFI, etc. - awesome stuff. Your BRONCO is really cool - don't ever sell it man!
I'll keep you guys posted on my progress...
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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06-30-12 12:18 AM - Post#2242849
In response to AMWRX
Sounds good man! Does anyone know what the trigger voltage threshold level of the Holley HP EFI on port "A - CRANK INPUT"?
Danny you mentioned the software can be set to "digital falling". What threshold do they understand as digital? 0.7V? TTL?
I don't know. I've used various Hall-Effect sensors, and they all worked fine. I'm sure yours will too.
For reference:
Cherry GS100102 (industrial grade, stainless steel):
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/Speed _Di... (my crank sensor)
Cherry VN101504 (digital vane switch):
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/Magne tic... (my cam sensor)
Cherry GS101201 (Holley's EFI crank trigger sensor):
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/Speed _Di... (Delphi GT Series 150 connector)
Notes for custom sensors/harnesses:
1) The ECU already has the pull-up resistor (for the sensors) inside, so don't add anything.
2) The ECU already has the shield (drain) wire connection/pin grounded inside, so don't ground it at the sensor end.
Danny I've read through the work you did on your car - the EFI, etc. - awesome stuff. Your BRONCO is really cool - don't ever sell it man!
Thanks. It was a lot of work but I'm enjoying it now.
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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AMWRX
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Age: 53
Loc: South Africa
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07-14-12 09:02 PM - Post#2248274
In response to Danny Cabral
Gents I've got another update.
I've installed the Mallory HYFIRE 6AL2 ignition box in the car
It runs better, especially at low RPM. Although I can't backup this statement with any data, the engine responds better as well. Surprising to me is also (again I have no data to prove this) that the exhaust gases smell a lot different. I don't have as much of the hydrocarbon smell around the car anymore when it runs, a sign that combustion efficiency has increased.
I hooked up the oscilloscope on the running engine, measuring voltage between ground and the input into the coil (NOT the ignition lead obviously, this could destroy the oscilloscope).
I get 3 to 4 sparks, irrespective of RPM (tested at idle and 5000 RPM). They are separated by about 3-5 us to each other.
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Good Decision to go for that Mallory HyFire Ignition box 
Edited by AMWRX on 07-14-12 09:05 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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07-15-12 07:43 AM - Post#2248362
In response to AMWRX
I've installed the Mallory HyFire 6AL2 ignition box in the car. It runs better, especially at low RPM. Although I can't backup this statement with any data, the engine responds better as well. Surprising to me is also (again I have no data to prove this) that the exhaust gases smell a lot different. I don't have as much of the hydrocarbon smell around the car anymore when it runs, a sign that combustion efficiency has increased. Good Decision to go for that Mallory HyFire Ignition box
Nice work. I've experienced the same results with CD ignition boxes:
Since we're talking ignition, I'd like to share a comparison test I did many years ago. At the time, I was running a well tuned, carbureted big block Ford with a Mallory Unilite distributor (without the fender mounted Duraspark ignition module). I was talking with some friends about the MSD 6A ignition box & Blaster coil I had just purchased. Since we were discussing whether or not these multiple spark CD boxes (20° 'till 3000 RPMs) actually do anything and since I needed to rewire everything anyway, I decided to temporarily wire the ignition system so I could switch from the Unilite (has its own ignition module) to the MSD 6A box and vice-versa. This allowed us to hear (and get a feel of) the difference. Well, to our surprise, the engine definitely idled better (smoother) with the MSD box, but of course, that's all we noticed. Later, I noticed the engine also idled better while warming up outside in the cold weather. So, ever since then, I've always used an aftermarket ignition box and I've never had one fail on me. Just my experience.
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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mike beck
Contributor
Posts: 218
Reg: 05-20-10
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07-15-12 02:45 PM - Post#2248467
In response to Danny Cabral
I have had issues with weak coils in the past. Even though the A/F was fine, the hydrocarbons would make your eyes tear.
I have MSD 6 boxes at a minimum in just about any performance application I work on, even some everyday street cars!
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oregonjoe
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Posts: 11
Loc: Sothern Oregon Coast
Reg: 07-16-12
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07-17-12 10:10 AM - Post#2249086
In response to AMWRX
I too just installed a HiFire 6A with a Holley HP ECM on a 4.3L vortec CPFI. Used the points out of the HP ECM to the White wire on the HiFire. Stock GM Crank Sensor to Crank input (HAL EFFECT) on the HP and it fires up. I have the Distributor sensor disconnected as I am using batch fire for now. I will go back and hook of the distributor to the CAM sensor input to the ECM once I get some tuning n but wonder if it will work at all since I do not know how the Holley HP will recognize the GM CAM signal?? Not sure the firmware will support it? I think the GM CAM is just pulses. Does the Holley synchronize to the Crank to find number 1 and then just uses the timing order in the ECM setup?
I use the HiFire because this is a marine application and the vessel idles for up to 8 hours (trolling speed) before it then immediately goes full throttle/load. Eliminates plug fouling. Without the HiFire, you could not get back to full throttle without first slowly burning off the plugs.
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mike beck
Contributor
Posts: 218
Reg: 05-20-10
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07-17-12 02:44 PM - Post#2249175
In response to oregonjoe
I don't see why you couldn't use the gm module to send a nice clean squarewave signal to the ECM. You would need to remove all but one of the teeth on the reluctor wheel. The remaining tooth would need to be at the correct degree before TDC of #1 firing.
You may also need to move spark plug wires around if you remove the wrong sensor and have to move the distributor around to get that tooth in the correct location.
The ECM doesn't know/care about #1 with the crank since it can also be the other cylinder at top dead center also but not on a compression stroke.
The ECM would care about the crank location IF you were using their 60-2 trigger wheel. Not sure if that works on a V-6 application, but I am sure you can find out if you want to.
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oregonjoe
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Sothern Oregon Coast
Reg: 07-16-12
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07-18-12 09:51 AM - Post#2249480
In response to mike beck
I will probably stick with batch fire for now as the HiFire seems to give the same advantages I would get going to sequential.
These marine engines seem to run at idle and at full power and very little in between.
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mike beck
Contributor
Posts: 218
Reg: 05-20-10
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07-18-12 05:26 PM - Post#2249646
In response to oregonjoe
Do you have it running already and if yes, how is it?
I know what you mean about idle and full throttle and not much between. I have done tuning on boats and I hated it, I get sea sick instantly!
How is the idile in and out of gear? We had lots of issues with that. The IAC's were not large enough to keep the idle up in gear if we had them set ok for out of gear. We actually had to add solenoids (like a nitrous solenoid) that opened-up another port so it would idle in gear. I think it was the pitch of the props that gave us all the issues.
We also had a heck of a time getting a wideband into that funky exhaust system!
Batch fire will be fine for a boat, don't make it complicated.
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oregonjoe
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Sothern Oregon Coast
Reg: 07-16-12
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07-18-12 09:34 PM - Post#2249736
In response to mike beck
Its been running in the yard with a hose till I get used to the new EMC and S/W. I have a Helm PC loaded with the tuning S/W so I can see and make changes instantly while at sea.
It goes back in the water tomorrow so I can find out how it does under load.
One Feature I have implemented is using a HP ECM input to retard the timing when we put it in gear. There is a cable pressure switch that closes when you put tension on the shift cable, That tells the HP ECM to retard timing by 20 degrees to unload the torque so we can shift. We used to have an external module to kill the spark so I hope this works. The switch is only active when shifting and takes just a second. Grinding gears is not a good sound. Other than that is idles great.
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oregonjoe
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Sothern Oregon Coast
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08-02-12 09:45 AM - Post#2254911
In response to oregonjoe
Update on the 4.3L Tuning – Boat has been back in the water for a few weeks now. Starts and idles fine at 60F. Idles fine in gear (for up to 8 hours). Runs great from idle to 3500 (MAP about 85).
We have Fuel Flow sensors on the supply and return lines. Before the HP upgrade from the C950 we were burning about 10 Gallons/Hour at 3500 (MAP 90). Now we are burning about 15 GPH at the same load. Engine temp is fine and EGT temps about 350F at load (we were getting about 450F on the old system) So, I guess its time to start leaning the top end of the table.
Question is, is there an easy way to do this without effecting the idle range since if I take even a small amount out there, the engine stumbles.
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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08-02-12 10:30 AM - Post#2254921
In response to oregonjoe
We have Fuel Flow sensors on the supply and return lines. Before the HP upgrade from the C950 we were burning about 10 Gallons/Hour at 3500 (MAP 90). Now we are burning about 15 GPH at the same load. Engine temp is fine and EGT temps about 350F at load (we were getting about 450F on the old system) So, I guess its time to start leaning the top end of the table.
Question is, is there an easy way to do this without effecting the idle range since if I take even a small amount out there, the engine stumbles.
Of course you can. The Target Air/Fuel Ratio Table is a 16 x 16 cell map that's fully programmable in any area.
Are you tuning in Closed Loop and allowing the Learn function to self-tune the Base Fuel Table (in accordance to the Target AFR)?
If not, the Base Fuel Table is a 31 x 31 cell map that's fully programmable in any area.
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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AMWRX
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Loc: South Africa
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08-07-12 04:59 AM - Post#2256677
In response to Danny Cabral
Hi there,
I've decided to get one of the Holley HP systems and I wanted to make sure if I got all the parts right and if anyone could recommend any extras that I may need.
550-411
Holley writes "75 lb per hour injectors, Range Up To 525", there is a larger 85 lb injector version but I guess that would be even more over-designed for a 308 engine. My question here is: would a smaller injector, say 65 lb work better for a 308 engine and is that available?
fuel pump
I guess I need a fuel pump for this system. I'd like to get something decent, I'm also thinking of removing the current petrol tank to an aluminium fuel cell. I'm unsure what the better thing to use is: and in-tank or an in-line fuel pump? Can anyone be so kind as to advise?
fuel/oil pressure sensor 554-102 (100 PSI)
I would like to measure both, oil and fuel pressure. My question here is: what additional materials do I need to connect this pressure transducer to the fuel and oil lines? Is there a standard type connector for this? Also, how many of these transducers can I connect to the Holley EFI?
oxygen sensor:
As far as I'm aware, the system comes with one oxygen sensor - is there an option to connect a second oxygen sensor in the system? If not, could I wire the two sensors in parallel or serial to get the average of both out?
Universal Knock sensor
How many knock sensors can I connect to the HP? Also, does anyone know where to get them from? Holley doesn't sell them as far as I'm aware.
pickup harness: 558-303
Magnetic Pickup Harness – Intended for magnetic pickups. Do I need this item if I want to wire my distributor to the system? I'm a bit confused as to whether or not I need to purchase this extra.
misc items?
Last but not least, I was wondering if anyone could think about what additional material I would need to get this EFI system into the car with only one day of mucking around!
Thanks guys!
Edited by AMWRX on 08-07-12 05:00 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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08-07-12 07:13 AM - Post#2256715
In response to AMWRX
550-411:
Holley writes "75 lb per hour injectors, Range Up To 525", there is a larger 85 lb injector version but I guess that would be even more over-designed for a 308 engine. My question here is: would a smaller injector, say 65 lb work better for a 308 engine and is that available?
The 65 lb/hr injectors are on a 700 cfm throttle body (Avenger EFI systems only).
The 900 cfm TBI unit with 75 lb/hr injectors will suit you fine.
fuel pump:
I guess I need a fuel pump for this system. I'd like to get something decent, I'm also thinking of removing the current petrol tank to an aluminum fuel cell. I'm unsure what the better thing to use is: and in-tank or an in-line fuel pump? Can anyone be so kind as to advise?
If installing a custom fuel cell, you might as well use an in-tank fuel pump (if it's an option with your tank fabricator).
fuel/oil pressure sensor 554-102 (100 PSI)
I would like to measure both, oil and fuel pressure. My question here is: what additional materials do I need to connect this pressure transducer to the fuel and oil lines? Is there a standard type connector for this? Also, how many of these transducers can I connect to the Holley EFI?
The main wiring harness is already wired for these transducers. Just purchase the transducers and plug them in.
oxygen sensor:
As far as I'm aware, the system comes with one oxygen sensor - is there an option to connect a second oxygen sensor in the system? If not, could I wire the two sensors in parallel or serial to get the average of both out?
Dual wideband O2 sensors are only an option with the Holley Dominator EFI.
Universal Knock sensor:
How many knock sensors can I connect to the HP? Also, does anyone know where to get them from? Holley doesn't sell them as far as I'm aware.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?2534-Conne... (Everything you need to know about connecting knock sensors to Holley EFI.)
pickup harness: 558-303
Magnetic Pickup Harness – Intended for magnetic pickups. Do I need this item if I want to wire my distributor to the system? I'm a bit confused as to whether or not I need to purchase this extra.
List what does your ignition system consist of. (No, I'm not reading this entire thread again.)
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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AMWRX
Forum Newbie
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Age: 53
Loc: South Africa
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10-24-12 12:19 AM - Post#2282558
In response to Danny Cabral
Thank you so much for your reply! I'm getting my stuff together right now, haven't had much time over the last couple of weeks due to lots of work...
I was wondering if I can connect two fuel pressure sensors to the HP EFI, as I would like to read out the pressure in the return line. Is this possible?
I've got an oversized fuel pump, therefore, I'm going to use 3/8" line for both, feed and return. I shouldn't have any problems with pressure in the return line but I'd like to read out the pressure anyway....
Thanks again for your help!
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AMWRX
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Posts: 20
Age: 53
Loc: South Africa
Reg: 06-26-12
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10-24-12 12:52 AM - Post#2282561
In response to AMWRX
I've just realised that the EFI only runs on 21 PSI of fuel pressure. That's pretty low - the higher the feed pressure the better the vaporization at the injectors. Maybe it's because they want to keep the cost of the EFI down. Is there a way to run with increased feed pressure?
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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10-24-12 02:17 AM - Post#2282564
In response to AMWRX
I was wondering if I can connect two fuel pressure sensors to the HP EFI, as I would like to read out the pressure in the return line. Is this possible?
Yes. One fuel pressure sensor already exists in the EFI software (in Sensors), and is wired in the main harness. A second one can be custom configured (created) in the I/O, and wired in after being Pin-Mapped. A second fuel pressure sensor on the return line, isn't really necessary, because the return line should not be a restriction.
I've just realized that the EFI only runs on 21 PSI of fuel pressure.
Actually it's higher than the 18 psi fuel pressure the old Holley B2 injectors used to run. Delphi TBI injectors are nominally set at 21 psi, but can be run at higher pressure. Although, the fuel pressure regulator (spring) will reach maximum around 26 psi.
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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AMWRX
Forum Newbie
Posts: 20
Age: 53
Loc: South Africa
Reg: 06-26-12
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10-24-12 05:15 AM - Post#2282581
In response to Danny Cabral
Thanks for your reply. True, makes not much sense as pressure in the return line should be below 3PSI.
Another thing: can you hook up a fuel level sender to the input of the HP?
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Danny Cabral
Member
Posts: 3149
Loc: Ellington, CT
Reg: 11-03-04
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10-24-12 05:37 AM - Post#2282587
In response to AMWRX
Another thing: can you hook up a fuel level sender to the input of the HP?
Yes, however, it won't display the fuel level (empty - full) in fractions or words. You'll need to program the custom created Input from 0% to 100% fuel level. Name it whatever you'd like. You'll also need the thermistor calibration data for the sending unit you plan on using. It can be setup to display on the Data Monitor (not as a gauge on the TSLCD).
May God's Grace Bless You
'78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim-over steering, 4" lift, 35" tires |
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AMWRX
Forum Newbie
Posts: 20
Age: 53
Loc: South Africa
Reg: 06-26-12
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10-24-12 05:46 AM - Post#2282589
In response to Danny Cabral
Awesome. Where can I get more info on programming these inputs? Are they resistive or voltage inputs?
Got my fuel system planned out:
#############
# FUEL CELL # SU126B fuel cell (soft bladder, 30"x14.5"x17.75").
############# (original tank 350 high x 380 wide x 750 long (14"x15"x30"))
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X UNKNOWN
X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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x JEGS Performance Products #555-103311
x JEGS 159201 20 micron filter, barbed ends, (similar to Wix 33033, also included in HP EFI)
x JEGS Performance Products #555-103311
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
X -6AN to 3/8" NPT Adapter (Russell 660461)
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### (inlet side requires Wix 33033 filter: paper, 20 micron, burst at 60 PSI)
# # Mallory 4060FI fuel pump
### (outlet side requires 10 micron fuel filter)
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X -6AN to 3/8" NPT Adapter (Russell 660461)
X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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x JEGS Performance Products #555-103311
x JEGS Performance Products 15175, barbed end (standard 10 micron fuel filter, also included in HP EFI)
x JEGS Performance Products #555-103311
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
X -6AN male to 3/8" (9.5mm) tube fitting (Earl's #361-165006)
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|-|
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| | 3/8" (9.5mm) hard-line
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|-|
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X -6AN male to 3/8" (9.5mm) tube fitting (Earl's #361-165006)
X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
X 1/8" NPT fuel gauge port (JEGS Performance Products #555-110520)
X Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-30 psi (JEGS Performance Products #555-41011)
X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
X -6AN Male to 1/4" NPT Adapter with 1/8" NPT fuel port (JEGS Performance Products 105522)
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##### IN
<-#TBI# Holley 550-411 EFI System
##### OUT
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X -6AN to 1/4" NPT Adapter (Aeroquip FCM2517)
X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
X 1/8" NPT fuel gauge port (JEGS Performance Products #555-110520)
X Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-15 psi (JEGS Performance Products #555-41010)
X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
X -6AN male to 3/8" (9.5mm) tube fitting (Earl's #361-165006)
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|-|
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| | 3/8" (9.5mm) hard-line
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|-|
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X -6AN male to 3/8" (9.5mm) tube fitting (Earl's #361-165006)
X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
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###
# # #6 Braided Hose (555-100914)
###
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X #6 Straight Hose Ends (555-100001)
X UNKNOWN
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#############
# FUEL CELL #
#############
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