2ndtime50guy
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Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
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06-26-12 05:57 PM - Post#2241667
This is "Wire Man". Would you recommend him removing his neck and armpit zip ties? I realize that all of the rest will get redistributed and loomed by groups and subgroups, but would it be ill-advised to undo the zip ties at his core?
The reason being is that the large, mostly yellow coil in the lower left is mostly "Tail Section" and would look nicer if it came out the Left side of the fuse block instead of making a u-turn from it's current location. This things is so HIGHLY ORGANIZED, thatI'm afraid to disturb some of it!
As you can see, I've added the blue tape to label the subgroups.
Thanks for the help as always!
"Wire Man":

By secondtime50guy at 2012-06-26
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
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2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425

Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
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06-26-12 06:13 PM - Post#2241675
In response to 2ndtime50guy
I'm already thinking a "u-turn" would be much less headache than undoing that core. My luck, I'd get a couple leads reversed trying to sort that out. Plus I googled and found some pics of Arnie's and Bill's and I like what they did! How did you guys make the upper bumper for the back of the block so we're not sitting on wire? Is that strip wood, plastic, or metal?
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
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53belair
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Reg: 03-25-07
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06-26-12 06:17 PM - Post#2241681
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Before you move anything to another bundle, check and recheck. Make yourself notes and label the wire you moved. Move it and then re-bundle the groups.
#1 reason for prolblems with rewire attempts with these types of setups is failure to read instructions.
#2 failure to follow instructions.
#3 read #1 and #2 again.
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2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425

Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
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06-26-12 06:33 PM - Post#2241689
In response to 53belair
Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking real strongly about not rebundling anything unless I have to. I've been reading the instructions for about a week now and will continue to re-read daily. Fortunately, I found a copy of them on a truck forum last week and started reading ahead.
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
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usmile4
"6th Year Gold Supporting Member
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06-26-12 06:57 PM - Post#2241696
In response to 2ndtime50guy
I would not re-bundle. I will take some pictures of what I did so you can see how it lays out.
I was able to pull the whole bundle of rear wires up through the A pillar. It was touch and go for a while so I put some silicone in the wire track and it eventually slid through fine. Once I had them into the roof rail, I put them in a loom all the way back to the trunk.
Bill Gommel
49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end. |
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50hotrod
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Age: 56
Loc: Wisconsin
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06-26-12 07:10 PM - Post#2241703
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Don't let all those wires intimidate you.
First figure out what you will need to run up front. Then the back. Then the engine compartment.
Now the dash. Do this on the floor or large table. Now re-bundle these groups before placing the harness in the car.
Then I removed all the tie raps except the two closest to the fuse panel.
After I re-bundled I removed the ties closest to the fuse panel and swung the wires to the opposite end so nothing hung down on my install.
If I get time I'll shoot some pictures and post-em for ya.
Like all aftermarket wiring harness's there are no ground wires supplied.
Well, you know what's wrong with the world today
People done gone and put their Bible's away
They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land
"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels
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bourbnj
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Age: 50
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06-26-12 07:11 PM - Post#2241705
In response to 2ndtime50guy
I raised the fuse block up using round rubber bushings about 1 1/4" from the driver side upper kick panel area. i also didnt want wires pushed against the metal surface. also helps eleminate road vibration.
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2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425

Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
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06-26-12 08:02 PM - Post#2241730
In response to bourbnj
Great advice guys! Bill, I wonder if there is room to loom those rear wires up through the A leg as well. Do you think that would make the feed more difficult? I already bought two 7 foot lengths of loom. I'm guessing I'll need a few more of those!
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
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Bob_Hayden
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06-26-12 08:27 PM - Post#2241739
In response to 2ndtime50guy
When I rewired my 54 I fastened the old wires to the new ones and pulled them up and over the door into the trunk.
| Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums |
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usmile4
"6th Year Gold Supporting Member
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Reg: 08-12-05
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06-26-12 09:01 PM - Post#2241748
In response to Bob_Hayden
I did just as Bob did, but there is not room to loom the wires in the pillar but loomed it under the dash and in the roof gutter after the pillar.
I also raised the fuze panel using threaded connectors and long machine bolts.
Bill Gommel
49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end. |
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Bob_Hayden
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06-27-12 05:57 AM - Post#2241822
In response to usmile4
Tim, Don't know what you mean by Loom the wires?
| Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums |
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2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425

Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
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06-27-12 09:57 AM - Post#2241922
In response to Bob_Hayden
Hi Bob! I mean that split plastic tubing thats kinda ribbed like downspout hose.
Update for everyone:
-the fuse block went in real nice!
-I'll post a pic later
-I used rubber hose as the "foot" for the top of the block; it was just the right thickness, doesn't vibrate, and has a bit of a rat rod look to it
-I used the horizontal reinforcement ridge on the kick plate as the bottom foot; just like several of you have done in google pics I've found
-I also screwed in my fasteners the old fashioned way--with a screwdriver. It took a little longer but I avoided the risk of the screw gun slipping and damaging the unit!
-Before I gave it the final "snug up" I looked behind the unit to make sure that no wires got pinched anywhere. That white wire was tempted to stray, but I kept it on the straight and narrow, lol.
I have the front section pulled through and the grommet installed. I did reloom 4 wires in that section but it just makes sense: I wanted all the light and horn wires on the driver's side and all the engine wires on the left, just like the original factory routing. It didn't come like this out of the box. The horn, coil, relay, and ignition were on the wrong side; no biggie and easily fixed. I re-zip tied everything. It all comes up from the fuse panel, through the existing square hole in the access panel (the 1.25 inch grommet seats perfectly in that square hole and I'll shim the bottom with half the old square rubber grommet!) That will be a nice safe passthrough. After it clears the firewall on the engine side, I have a "Y" in the bundle and half goes right and half goes left. After lunch I plan to start looking at the A leg and go buy my silicone for that bundle. I'll make sure to remove the zip ties first so nothing gets jammed up in there!
More later! Thanks for all your help. You guys are the best!
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
Edited by 2ndtime50guy on 06-27-12 10:01 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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50hotrod
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Age: 56
Loc: Wisconsin
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06-27-12 11:06 AM - Post#2241951
In response to 50hotrod
Fuse panel installed.
Well, you know what's wrong with the world today
People done gone and put their Bible's away
They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land
"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels
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usmile4
"6th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3082
Age: 66
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
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06-27-12 01:06 PM - Post#2241985
In response to 50hotrod
When I pulled my wires through the A pillar, I took the old wire that was there and worked it back and forth a little...if I was doing it again I think I would squirt some silicone on it and work it back and forth to lube up the channel before starting to pull.
I taped 3 or 4 wires to the old wires and then about every 3" I taped another one from the new batch. That way the splices were staggered rather than all being in one clump. AFter I had all of them taped for the start of the pull, I then squeezed them all together and put a round of tape around the whole groups about every 12". I would stop with that taping as far along the bunch as will be in the pillar. I don't want the wires taped together inside of the piller in case I need to take them apart and pull one or more of them out someday. Then I started pulling and when it got jammed, I would gently pull it back and then pull again. I didn't want to take the chance of nicking a wire in the pillar. The silicone did help but it is pretty messy so after I got all the wires in the pillar I used some brake clean to flush out that pillar and wiped down the wires.
Bill Gommel
49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end. |
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2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425

Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
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06-27-12 06:17 PM - Post#2242083
In response to usmile4
Well, this guy is pooped. Wiring is not hard, but the car was hot today in the beating sun.
I spent about about 5 hours today trying to pull wires through the A Leg. I don't know how one could get 7-8 wires through that channel. I did all the things you did and could only get THREE through without getting jammed. And that didn't included the dome light or it's return. Obviously, I took out the dome switch before I started and I even took off the Serial # Plate in case the little screws were sticking up. I finally thought, "well, why not run half the wires up the passenger side leg?" No such luck. I could only get TWO wires up that one and they STILL jammed! And when I say jammed, they weren't just grinding on rust. They were coming back out with a clean CUT in the tape. Fortunately it only scratched the wire. I wasn't even pulling that hard for fear of getting them caught and not getting them out, or as you mention, damaging the wires. Frustrating. I wonder if my car body is just an oddball? I found lead work under the FACTORY paint in back. Is that normal? I think I'm just going to protect my investment and run only the dome light wires through the legs, loom the rear section, and run it down the middle of the car under the carpet at the edge of the hump. Or, better yet, I could tape it right down the middle of the hump, cover with carpet, and then build custom drink holders to cover the l wire bump and protect it. That's what i'll do. I wanted to add something with wood and brass anyway. I know thats not ideal, but it's better than damaging this wiring! It's gonna be 103 degrees tomorrow. Hopefully it will go well!
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
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2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425

Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
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06-27-12 06:27 PM - Post#2242087
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Sorry, I keep calling it an "A Leg". I mean pillar. An "A Leg" is part of a walking dragline, another hobby of mine; large scale mining equipment!
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
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Bob_Hayden
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 5742

Age: 66
Loc: Indianapolis, In. USA
Reg: 07-17-01
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06-27-12 08:10 PM - Post#2242118
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Tim, Did you fasten the new wires to the old ones? I did mine like Bill did. Stagger them Had to pull pretty hard a few times but they went thru.
| Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums |
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usmile4
"6th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3082
Age: 66
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
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06-27-12 10:03 PM - Post#2242152
In response to Bob_Hayden
I was not able to pull the wires through the A pillar on my 49 so I had to put them on the floor. Here is what I used:
I went to my local big box hardware store and bought some plastic channel-the kind you use to cover cords. I got the flat kind.
I put this on the floor just inside of the where the seat mounting pieces were. The wires laid in nice all the way back to just under the front lip of the rear seat.
AFter the wires were all laid in the channel, the top piece snaps into place. I then took some copper straps for holding down 1/2" copper pipe and flattened them out and bent them over the plastic channel and used self tapping screws to hold them in place. The carpet and pad went right over the channel and you hardly could see any lump at all as I put EZ Cool insulation down on the floor and cut it around the channel.
I was going to do the same thing with the 51 but since the old wires were still in the pillar, I tried pulling the new ones through and it worked.
Bill Gommel
49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end. |
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2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425

Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
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06-28-12 04:19 AM - Post#2242178
In response to usmile4
Great idea Bill. I may actually have some of that in my basement. (My wife will tell you I'm somewhat of a packrat) I've been looking at it for 10 years now thinking I need to throw it away! It's funny how much stuff I've been able to "put to work" from this old basement in order to save money. Solvents, Degreasers, fasteners, etc. Now if I just had my dad's baby food jars full of nuts and bolts. I'm thinking I left those in the old garage when we moved here. He just told me a few weeks ago that those contained lots of Classic Chevy nuts and bolts from his '56 project. I had no idea... Anyway, time to get rolling on the car before it gets hot...and it will!
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
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