CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1747
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
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06-24-12 12:10 PM - Post#2240793
Laid out and installed all of my Air Ride wiring last night. I bet I'll have 100 lbs of wire in the car it seems when all of the accy stuff is done.
Obviously electrical accessories are made to fit many different install methods with different wire lengths. Is there any downside to shortening some of these harnesses via cut/solder/heat shrink, where the wire is your standard auto multi-conductor type wiring where a 3 lead connector for example is 3 separate wires vs an integrated cable?
Seems like I remember from my LT1 days it was a big no-no to do that on engine sensor harnesses (MAF extension was the typical thing people wanted to do), is there any kind of rule-of-thumb in general to follow here?
Thanks,
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
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 Rick_L
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06-24-12 03:34 PM - Post#2240859
In response to CharlieC
"where the wire is your standard auto multi-conductor type wiring where a 3 lead connector for example is 3 separate wires"
I'm not familiar with 3 wire bundles in automotive applications. Where would those be?
In the engine harness, your sensor signals (like TPS, MAP, MAF) are going to be twisted pairs in a factory harness, and that's what it should be and you should stick with for eliminating electromagnetic interference.
Others are going to be a single wire, like the temperature sensors.
And the O2 sensors are 4 wire, though only 2 are signal.
And sure as the world, there's a 3 wire deal somewhere but they are not the norm.
The best way to shorten wires, especially in an engine harness, is to re-pin the conductors at their connections. I've not messed with the LSx computer connectors, but for the LT1 computer connectors this is pretty easy to do (easy to add a wire too), and I expect it would be similar for the LSx stuff. For wires that don't go to the computer, I would re-pin them where possible. You can buy pins and crimp tools from a number of sources.
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wagonman100
Super Senior Member
Posts: 12945
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
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06-24-12 06:51 PM - Post#2240937
In response to Rick_L
I would agree with shortening the from the end and putting on new terminals. Soldering can cause increase resistance or create stress on the connection and cause it to eventually break.
Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.
1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
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CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1747
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
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06-24-12 06:53 PM - Post#2240939
In response to Rick_L
Sorry, didn't mean to cross engine harness into this. My question is just around things like Air Ride, PW, etc. The connector I was talking about is like a round pin GM Weatherpak.
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
'09 Avalanche LTZ |
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Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24736
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
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06-24-12 07:00 PM - Post#2240943
In response to CharlieC
Well that makes the risk less sensitive.
Still, shortening the conductors by re-pinning the Weatherack style connectors (or whatever you have) is the best way.
Do you know what style GM connectors you have? Weatherpack was replaced by Metripack in the early 90s. More iterations since then.
It's not really more work, but you have to have the pins and tools to do it.
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CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1747
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
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06-24-12 07:44 PM - Post#2240961
In response to Rick_L
What I think is a Weatherpack tool got the male pins out of the connectors I have. I'll ask RideTech what connectors they use.
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
'09 Avalanche LTZ |
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