1carguy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 17
Reg: 11-30-08
|
06-23-12 02:42 PM - Post#2240534
I'm getting ready to rebuild the front suspension on my 55 Nomad. It's a stock front end that someone has cut the springs to lower it and added a sway bar. The A arms are stock and the bushings are shot. The car sits nice but rides and drives like sh_ _. Here's my plan: Replace the spindles with 2" dropped, re-bush everything, new ball joints, new idler arm, new coil springs, and new shocks. It has front disc brakes already (I think small GM type of unknown origin). My goal is to keep it low but improve the ride and handling. It's very mushy and wanders all over. There are lots of companies for these parts....can anyone recommend a source for aftermarket components that are competitively priced that can give reliable advice on what to buy? I've called 2 places and they would rather sell me whole front ends.
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
 acardon
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 9454
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
|
06-23-12 02:59 PM - Post#2240548
In response to 1carguy
I used Moog bushings and bal joints from Rock Auto all made in USA. O'Reiley carries Moog, but are more expensive than Rock. Link to Rock Auto.
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
|
|
 jel1957
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 413
Loc: Sugar Land, Texas
Reg: 01-01-04
|
06-23-12 06:05 PM - Post#2240603
In response to acardon
I have been able to get he Moog numbers on line, and then order at the local autoparts stores. Some parts are even in stock.
|
 inline0_0
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1395
Loc: Arizona desert
Reg: 03-10-04
|
06-23-12 07:27 PM - Post#2240617
In response to jel1957
Acardon has the plan IMO.
Doug
|
 6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1864
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
|
06-23-12 10:32 PM - Post#2240660
In response to 1carguy
Welcome to CT!!!  
I like to shop local. I was able to find McQuay-Norris bushings and upper ball joints at my local Kragen (before O'Reilly's bought them out) back in 2007 for my '57. Made a 2nd stop at another store for the lower b-joints. Both stores had parts on the shelf, but the MQ-N catalog only went back to '58. 
Shop around locally, starting with your favorite counterperson or parts store. Independent stores might be your best bet, as they can order from any warehouse in the area. My favorite guy works at a NAPA store, gives me installer prices on whatever I need - has gone the extra mile for me, so I don't shop price as much as I used to. 
Be sure to ask were their parts are made - the aftermarket is flooded with CRAP FROM CHINA!!!  
Don is right - prices from RockAuto are as good as they get, but ya gotta figure for shipping.  I use them for a guide for planning a project, then see how close the locals get to their prices. Some day I'll place an order with them...
Where are you located? PLEASE, take a minute to fill out your profile! I'm in SoCal, east of S.D.
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
|
|
1carguy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 17
Reg: 11-30-08
|
06-23-12 11:36 PM - Post#2240663
In response to 6-bangertim
Maybe I was kinda vague about what I'm asking for. I think buying ball joints and bushings can be found just about anywhere. I don't know what the best combination is for coil springs, shocks, and dropped spindle to keep it low yet give it a better ride/drive than the old cut springs that I currently have. Since I'm going to re-bush it anyway, I thought it would be a good time to upgrade the suspension. I've contacted a couple of so-called Chevy stores and they want to get me to install a complete IFS kit for $2-3 grand.
|
Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1663
Reg: 01-03-07
|
06-24-12 05:24 AM - Post#2240683
In response to 1carguy
Hello;
Let me briefly interupt. A couple months ago, a complete upgraded front suspension for Tri-Five was covered in Rod and Custom Mag. Parts were from CPP they were upper and lower control arms, droped spindles, springs ect. This article inspired me (in your situation then) to purchace the control arms ($800.00) These came with Ball Joints and bushings, nothing to do but take off the old and bolt on the new!
So far, so good my car drives way better, I also replaced all inner and outer steering ends and the bearing up grade to the Idler arm (completely new) I was going to do the job but why when I can have a front end mechanic do it for $500 and it's ready to drive after!
Bruce
|
6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1864
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
|
06-25-12 11:44 AM - Post#2241164
In response to 1carguy
CPP has a forum here on CT - Aaron takes good care of us! You can also click on their logo at the top of the CT page to go to their catalog or take a look at their INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR DISC BRAKES AND POWER STEERING. Their guide is a MUST READ, plenty of good info there.
CPP also offers a LIFETIME WARRANTY on their stuff - they replaced a weeping combi-valve that I bought in a Danchuk kit. Doesn't get any better than that!!! 
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
|
|
Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24728
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
|
06-25-12 06:43 PM - Post#2241286
In response to 1carguy
The Mcquay-Norris parts are usually the same as Moog, or at least they used to be.
The best rubber/metal bushings have "Harris" molded into the rubber. Moog and others have the "Harris" bushings.
Moog makes springs that are at least consistent. You probably need a Moog 638. I prefer stock springs when available though. They don't wear out if unmodified.
The Heidt's dropped spindles are more or less the standard of the industry. The Earle Williams spindles are also good and give you closer to stock width on the wheel mounting surfaces.
If you are going to power steering, you should give some thought to getting tubular upper control arms that have extra caster built in.
Last thing, put a sway bar on it. I like the Hellwig stuff but almost all of them are good. The Hellwig bars are generally bigger. Consider a rear bar if you go with a big front bar.
If you do all this, you have a signiificant outlay in parts. But it all goes together with little or no mods. And it will compare to clips and bolt on custom suspension that cost far more for the parts plus requiring significant labor to install, including welding.
|
Petri
Contributor
Posts: 287
Loc: Helsinki
Reg: 08-10-10
|
06-26-12 09:25 AM - Post#2241502
In response to 6-bangertim
I don't want to upset anyone, but why do you guys always criticise foreign parts? I have bought a lot of crappy parts, made in USA.
My friend is professional engine builder. He buys a lot of engine parts from China, because they are the best.
Do you have test results that shows that made in USA parts are better than foreign ones? Or is it just mouth to mouth tale?
"Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way.
Oh what fun it is to ride in a '57 Chevrolet."
-Brian Setzer Orchestra-
Drive it like you stole it |
|
Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24728
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
|
06-26-12 10:45 AM - Post#2241525
In response to Petri
I think everyone is suspicious of Chinese parts because of the reputation that precedes anything built in China. Like Harbor Freight tools for exanmple.
Most of the absolute junk that comes out of China is low quality because the importer or whoever is ordering the stuff wants the miniumum cost and doesn't speicify any performance standard either for fit and function, or for appearance.
As a general statement, the Chinese will build you anything you want if you speicify how you want it, and are willing to monitor what you get.
But if you only want the lowest price, they will give you parts made from bad steel and junk rubber, and then do a bad job of building them too.
Sheet metal from China is sometimes better than US made parts but not in all cases. And guess what, when that's true, they cost just as much too. Other things you can't get except from China, so there's no way to compare.
I'm not familiar with very many Chinese engine parts, that's one area I would definitely not be a pioneer.
|
MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
|
06-26-12 01:59 PM - Post#2241592
In response to Petri
Disintegrating rubber, creaky balls joints, and tie rod ends that won't take grease are problems I have had with cheap suspension parts. Those things are never an issue with Moog.
I've also seen a motor mount where the manufacturer couldn't even get the 3 holes drilled in the correct places.
Someone here posted a picture of a broken tool a while back (an adjustable wrench?) where the casting was unbelievably porous. Can you imagine breaking a real Crescent wrench right in half? It would never happen.
That said, companies like SCAT (crankshafts and rods) use Chinese castings and forgings, but they are much higher quality, because SCAT requires more than just a low price.
But like Rick, said, if all the importer wants is a knock-off product with cheap price, you will get crap. Case in point -- Harbor Freight ratchet, bench grinder, or just about anything in the store. Pittsburg Tools, my a$$!
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
|
|
Petri
Contributor
Posts: 287
Loc: Helsinki
Reg: 08-10-10
|
06-27-12 05:13 AM - Post#2241800
In response to Rick_L
OK, thanks. Interesting comments. So, the "crap from China" is mix of true, false, reputation, prejudice, matter of importer, rumours, urban tales, generalising, etc.
"Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way.
Oh what fun it is to ride in a '57 Chevrolet."
-Brian Setzer Orchestra-
Drive it like you stole it |
|
models916
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1867
Age: 62
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
|
06-27-12 06:40 AM - Post#2241837
In response to Petri
You must be kidding or uninformed. I'm sure there are some crappy USA parts out there, but they are far superior to off shore copies.
|
55 Shaker
Member
Posts: 1043
Age: 63
Loc: north central IL.
Reg: 03-13-06
|
06-27-12 08:09 AM - Post#2241876
In response to Petri
Built an engine with chinese heads, had nothing but problems for two years. Changed the heads over to Dart Pro 1's, and life is much better now.
| The older I get, the more dangerous, I am !!!! |
|
Doc Fillem
Forum Newbie
Posts: 72
Reg: 04-17-12
|
06-27-12 08:50 AM - Post#2241889
In response to 1carguy
I have had these control arms Link on my '57 for two years. They are well made and I've had zero problems. I also have 2" lowered spindles from CPP and stock height springs with KYB shocks and swaybar. Frontend is nice and tight and drives great.
|
Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24728
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
|
06-27-12 11:53 AM - Post#2241968
In response to MikeB
I forgot about crankshafts. Some of them are exceptions to what I said.
|
MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
|
06-27-12 01:22 PM - Post#2241990
In response to Petri
OK, thanks. Interesting comments. So, the "crap from China" is mix of true, false, reputation, prejudice, matter of importer, rumours, urban tales, generalising, etc.
I cited specific examples and real-world experiences. No rumors, urban tales, generalizations, etc.
I think you should volunteer to build a car using as many Chinese parts as you can find. I suggest starting with a $50 HEI distributor from Skip White, and maybe some Pro-Comp heads.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
|
Edited by MikeB on 06-27-12 01:22 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
Belair56OKC
Contributor
Posts: 121
Age: 57
Loc: Edmond, OK
Reg: 09-28-11
|
06-27-12 01:37 PM - Post#2241997
In response to Petri
Most companies for the last 20 years have off shored for one reason..$$..Supplier control by the OEM cost a bunch of cash..Pay me now or pay me later..years ago the OEM decided to shell/fire/reorganize and got rid of inspection. Not all foreign parts are junk..The aerospace community is going thru hell right now with this very issue. Do your homework and the buyer is their own best quality advicate!! 
|
busterrm
Contributor
Posts: 976
Loc: Wichita Falls, Tx
Reg: 08-31-10
|
07-03-12 12:51 AM - Post#2243864
In response to acardon
I used Moog bushings and bal joints from Rock Auto all made in USA. O'Reiley carries Moog, but are more expensive than Rock. Link to Rock Auto.
==== BOB ====
If I can't smoke the tires I want more!
1976 Chevy Nova
2007 Chevy 1500 1/2 ton
2005 Yamaha Vstar 1100 midnight custom |
Edited by busterrm on 07-03-12 12:51 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
GaryC
Very Senior Member
Posts: 2639
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA. U.S.A
Reg: 02-28-03
|
07-03-12 08:18 PM - Post#2244231
In response to Petri
I don't want to upset anyone, but why do you guys always criticise foreign parts? I have bought a lot of crappy parts, made in USA.
My friend is professional engine builder. He buys a lot of engine parts from China, because they are the best.
Do you have test results that shows that made in USA parts are better than foreign ones? Or is it just mouth to mouth tale?
I've used plenty of Chinese parts, especially sheet metal. I can tell you from first hand experience you don't want to buy any Chinese ball joints for a tri-five. I received a set from Mutton Hollow that I wouldn't use on a go cart. As far as suspension parts it should be Moog parts all the way.
1957 Chevrolet Bel Air coupe, 300hp 327, M20 4 speed
|
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
drtyler (4)
