 waubva52
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Loc: Wind Lake.Wi
Reg: 04-01-04
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06-23-12 11:40 AM - Post#2240495
I purchased a 57 rear and istalling into a 52 216 styline .I had the instruction to make this conversion but I lost them.Does anyone have this step by step instruction.I know some one posted then before. The rear had to be totally cleaned.and axle bearings replaced. I planning on using new springs.I see alot of differt choses Any advise
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56sedandelivery
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2601
Age: 61
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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06-23-12 04:04 PM - Post#2240564
In response to waubva52
Just redrill the spring pin locator hole 1 1/2 inches FORWARD of stock on the 57 housing, and 1/2 inch inward. BUT, if I were to do it again, I think I would NOT move the pin hole 1/2 inch inward; it makes the springs appear to lean in toward the center of the car. There may be some slight vaiants with different cars. In an old HOT ROD MAGAZINE I have, they drilled the locator pin hole forward 1 1/2 inches, but moved the perches outward 3/8 inch or so (seems like a lot of work to me). Butch/56sedandelivery.
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 53belair
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 872
Age: 57
Loc: Ellerslie, Georgia
Reg: 03-25-07
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06-24-12 02:11 PM - Post#2240826
In response to 56sedandelivery
That's interesting. Makes sense that about 1/2 inch less might work.
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 DZAUTO
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7035
Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
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06-25-12 07:33 AM - Post#2241095
In response to waubva52
In my opinion, the 55-56-57 Chevy rear axle housings are the best choice for converting a 49-54 Chevy to an open drive line. Unfortunately, they are becoming a little scarce. Of the three years (55-56-57), the 57 is just a slightly better choice, but any of the 3 is fine. With a properly rebuilt center section, and a posi added for more strength, these rears will stand up to juat about any healthy small block. The 57 rear in my 51 has been there since 67 and today the 51 has a healthy 383 and the 3.08 posi is doing just fine.
As mentioned above, to install a 55-7 rear into a 49-54 Chevy, just drill new holes 1 1/2in FORWARD and about 1/2in inboard of the existing holes. Use the 55-57 anchor plates/U-bolts and shocks for a 55-57 Chevy. I have installed Monroe air shocks for a 55-7 Chevy in the 51.
When I originally installed the 57 housing back in 67, I didn't know to drill new holes. Thus, the rear sits forward of center. Here is what it will look like if you don't drill new holes.
I ESPECIALLY prefer the 55-57 style rears because of the simplicity of changing/repairing the center section. They used the same style center section for 55-64 and parts as well as Eaton posi units are readily available for them. It is SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier to drop out the center section and put it on the workbench rather than work on the rear under the car!!!
This-------
------as opposed to this, is sooooooooooo much easier!
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coachfrank
Forum Newbie
Posts: 31
Age: 65
Loc: washington,pa
Reg: 07-20-11
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06-25-12 02:48 PM - Post#2241209
In response to DZAUTO
Tom, that photo looks just like my 52 Styleline with a 56 rear end. Previous owner put it in. A question, how does moving the spring locator hole forward move the wheel backwards, or to the center of the wheel well? On our 53 pickup we centered the wheel with a Nova rear and a 4 link rear by moving the rear end back 1 1/2 inch.
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 4D50STYDLX
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 422
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
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06-25-12 03:06 PM - Post#2241213
In response to coachfrank
Think about it, you move the hole forward and the whole rearend has to move backwards to drop in the forward hole.
Roger
1950 Style Line Deluxe 4 Door with a 1957 235
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DZAUTO
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7035
Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
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06-25-12 03:30 PM - Post#2241218
In response to 4D50STYDLX
Think about it, you move the hole forward and the whole rearend has to move backwards to drop in the forward hole.
YEP, ultra simple!
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coachfrank
Forum Newbie
Posts: 31
Age: 65
Loc: washington,pa
Reg: 07-20-11
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06-25-12 03:36 PM - Post#2241220
In response to DZAUTO
Yep, Went down and looked at it!!!! Got it!!!!
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waubva52
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Loc: Wind Lake.Wi
Reg: 04-01-04
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06-25-12 07:34 PM - Post#2241316
In response to coachfrank
Thanks to all for the advise.I said previously that I need to get new springs, the old ones on the car have seen better days.When you made the swap did you use springs from the 57 or did you use the springs from the 51? One last thing I would like to know is spring perches any advise on them? Ken
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53belair
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 872
Age: 57
Loc: Ellerslie, Georgia
Reg: 03-25-07
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06-25-12 08:19 PM - Post#2241340
In response to waubva52
The 57 springs are not the right size to be a "drop in". Either get some new springs from eaton, better than new springs from posies, or do a complete change with a kit from one of the many providers.
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 bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5100
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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06-25-12 08:51 PM - Post#2241351
In response to waubva52
The SPRING PERCH is where you will be drilling the new holes.
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DZAUTO
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7035
Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
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06-25-12 09:26 PM - Post#2241363
In response to waubva52
Thanks to all for the advise.I said previously that I need to get new springs, the old ones on the car have seen better days.When you made the swap did you use springs from the 57 or did you use the springs from the 51? One last thing I would like to know is spring perches any advise on them? Ken
My 57 housing is bolted to the original springs that were installed at the assembly plant in 1951!
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DZAUTO
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7035
Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
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06-25-12 09:26 PM - Post#2241364
In response to bobg1951chevy
The SPRING PERCH is where you will be drilling the new holes.
Correct!
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53belair
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 872
Age: 57
Loc: Ellerslie, Georgia
Reg: 03-25-07
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06-26-12 10:32 AM - Post#2241518
In response to waubva52
Here is the link to Eaton Springs. You can get several different spring rates (stiffness) and also 2" + or - ride height. Cost is approx. $300
http://www.eatonsprings.com/40-54chevroletcar.html
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50hotrod
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 383
Age: 56
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
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06-26-12 01:22 PM - Post#2241574
In response to 53belair
If you purchase a 2" leaf spring conversion kit everything will be a "bolt in" application.
Well, you know what's wrong with the world today
People done gone and put their Bible's away
They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land
"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels
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53belair
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 872
Age: 57
Loc: Ellerslie, Georgia
Reg: 03-25-07
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06-26-12 02:16 PM - Post#2241595
In response to 50hotrod
The 2 inch conversion would be almost $200 more and there would be cutting and welding involved to move the spring perches on the axle. Otherwise it would be a bolt in. It's a great upgrade if the OP is interested in spending that kind of $$ and time.
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waubva52
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Loc: Wind Lake.Wi
Reg: 04-01-04
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06-26-12 02:50 PM - Post#2241608
In response to 53belair
Thanks guys for setting me straight. I thought what you hook the spring to was the spring perch, and what I had to redrill was the spring pad.I got it. I will look at purchasing New 2" springs,redrill my "spring perch" install rebuilt 57 rear.I like this plan! Ken
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bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5100
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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06-26-12 03:43 PM - Post#2241627
In response to waubva52
Ken, spring hooks to spring shackle.
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50hotrod
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 383
Age: 56
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
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06-26-12 07:24 PM - Post#2241713
In response to bobg1951chevy
Here is a link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-54-Chevy-Car-R ear-End-M...
Well, you know what's wrong with the world today
People done gone and put their Bible's away
They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land
"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels
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Bill K.b
Senior Member
Posts: 3863
Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
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07-02-12 10:46 AM - Post#2243626
In response to 50hotrod
Position the rear in the car, use some paint to mark where the holes should be, then drill them.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.
1991 G20 van 5.7L - swap meet spl.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 Suburban 5.7
Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy. |
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