Carl_Cash
Member
Posts: 81
Loc: Shreveport, La.
Reg: 02-01-04
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06-23-12 09:14 AM - Post#2240474
I've got an 81 SWB that I'm pretty certain has a bent frame. I noticed a long time ago that the gap between the bed and body is wider on the driver's side, but I just assumed the bed had been put back on a little weird at some point. Well, I was under the truck swapping out transmissions and I noticed the lower flange of the "C" channel bows downward on the left side right behind the cab. I believe that means my frame is bent/twisted. My question is: does anybody know how much a frame shop would charge to straighten it? Also, what all would I have to pull off the truck? Strip it down to the frame? Just pull the bed and front clip?
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 Vaughn
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 13559
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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06-23-12 10:47 AM - Post#2240491
In response to Carl_Cash
You should check your body mounts before you attack the frame. The rubber body mounts will rot away over time, causing contact between body parts and/or body misalignment.
Does your truck pull hard to the right or left, or does it wear tires out pretty quickly? This is an indication of a bent frame.
Don't just go by the C-channel being bent up under the cab. There are specific points on the chassis that a frame shop uses to check for frame bends - and the only way to do that is is to put it on a frame rack. A bend like you are describing probably isn't even worth putting on a frame rack.
A GOOD local frame shop can pull most frames back into alignment - especially mild bends like what you presume to be a bent frame in your case. They pull some very nasty bent frames back into alignment with very little (or no) alignment problems. I've seen major front end damage repaired (where the whole front end was almost at 90 degrees to the rest of the vehicle) to the point that the car drove straight and aligned fine, and the new sheetmetal fit without gaps of any sort.
Cost will depend on how much the frame needs to be straightened. Since yours is minimal, it probably won't cost much. It will take more time to put on the rack than it will take to fix the bend you are describing.
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Carl_Cash
Member
Posts: 81
Loc: Shreveport, La.
Reg: 02-01-04
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06-23-12 11:27 AM - Post#2240493
In response to Vaughn
I had figured it was body mounts when I got the truck, but then I saw the frame bowed. I also noticed the front bumper is an inch or so further from the fender on the right than it is the left (the bumper isn't bent). I think it probably got hit on the front corner and tweaked the whole frame a bit. The truck doesnt seem to have any alignment problems though. It tracks pretty straight and doesn't seem to be wearing the tires oddly.
Edited by Carl_Cash on 06-23-12 11:29 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 gchemist
Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 20829
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
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06-23-12 02:53 PM - Post#2240543
In response to Carl_Cash
These trucks are notorious for "bed twist". If you look at enough trucks, you'll see the bed twisted. The passenger bed side is higher than the driver side. If you see the truck from the rear, you'll see the twist.
My truck has it severely. Mine has been rolled on its side so it's excessive. Other nonwrecked trucks also have it. The gap between tire and wheel well is noticable. My passener side gap is 1" more than the driverside. When I install lowering leafs and clean up the rear of the frame, I hope I can take out some of the gap. I even a C notch kit to install.
'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'96 GMC Jimmy LS |
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Carl_Cash
Member
Posts: 81
Loc: Shreveport, La.
Reg: 02-01-04
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06-23-12 07:18 PM - Post#2240615
In response to gchemist
This truck actually doesn't have any bed twist. Maybe because the fuel tank is on the right. My 86 I used to have had a good tilt to the left, but it also had the tank on the left. Over the years of having extra weight on that side, I think it slowly compresses the springs.
How much play is there in the bed mounts? Could I maybe loosen the bolts up and try to even up the gap between the bed and body that way? I dunno what I'll do with the thing. I was gonna fix it up nice, but there's no use dumping a lot of money in a truck with a noticeably tweaked frame. I put a Buick 430 in it awhile back, and it runs like a bat out of hell  . I'd hate to get rid of it now.
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gchemist
Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 20829
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
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06-24-12 04:34 AM - Post#2240675
In response to Carl_Cash
Buick 430??? Take some pictures!! I want to see it!!
'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'96 GMC Jimmy LS |
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Carl_Cash
Member
Posts: 81
Loc: Shreveport, La.
Reg: 02-01-04
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06-24-12 08:14 AM - Post#2240730
In response to gchemist
There's some pictures in this thread http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?ti...
I've cleaned it up a little since then. Its still no show truck engine compartment though. I've just got too many irons in the fire right now to spend time detailing an engine that runs good.
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Vaughn
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 13559
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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06-24-12 12:57 PM - Post#2240805
In response to Carl_Cash
You can shim the bed mounts if you want - use galvanized washers if you do, otherwise the shim (if metal) will rot away pretty quickly. Use that only if there is a height difference side to side.
There is some play in the bed bolts (8 of them) so you can move the bed around a bit, but that will not fix a racking problem if you have one.
You can rack the bed if you loosen the bedsides from the front panel and the rear sill, it may take a while to do. You will also have to hook up a come along crossways (for instance) from a left front corner and a right rear corner, or vice versa - to get enough force to rack the bed.
Since you seem to be really worrying about how much the cost is for a straightened frame, I will give you a rough estimate. I don't usually do that, because prices for most services vary widely across the country. A frame pull to fix your problem should run right in the $250 range - depending on how new the frame table is. The newer the equipment, the more it will cost.
It is far cheaper than swapping frames, in terms of time and money spent.
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Carl_Cash
Member
Posts: 81
Loc: Shreveport, La.
Reg: 02-01-04
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06-24-12 03:35 PM - Post#2240860
In response to Vaughn
Thanks Vaughn, thats the info I need. I was afraid it might be more in the 750-1250 range, since it seems like most people just swap frames instead of fixing what they have. 250$ isnt bad at all. Can the frame be straightened with the fenders etc on it or does it have to be stripped?
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Vaughn
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 13559
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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06-24-12 08:08 PM - Post#2240973
In response to Carl_Cash
No, you don't need to remove anything. Actually, it is better if you don't remove anything. Metal has memory, and when you pull the frame back into shape - most everything else will pull back into shape body wise.
Even on bad wrecks, they leave as much stuff in place as possible - because the act of straightening the frame will push body work back out to a more workable shape.
Your tech will tell you if you need to remove anything.
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Carl_Cash
Member
Posts: 81
Loc: Shreveport, La.
Reg: 02-01-04
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06-24-12 09:05 PM - Post#2241000
In response to Vaughn
Ok, cool. Thanks for your help.
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56sedandelivery
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2561
Age: 61
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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06-25-12 11:07 AM - Post#2241155
In response to Carl_Cash
After straightening things out, have someone follow you while you drive the truck. They should be able to see if the truck is tracking OK, or dogwalking. I see cars and trucks all the time with obvious signs of a bent frame, they're dogwalking. Butch/56sedandelivery.
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Carl_Cash
Member
Posts: 81
Loc: Shreveport, La.
Reg: 02-01-04
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06-25-12 06:42 PM - Post#2241284
In response to 56sedandelivery
I've seen that fairly often also. Usually on lifted trucks. They don't get the axles set right when they put the blocks in I guess.
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