 57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
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06-20-12 08:51 PM - Post#2239673
Are Spal fans typically very noisey? I just installed a 16" pusher(about2000-2300cfm) . I replaced a Hayden fan about 1200cfm and it makes noise but the Spal has a fairly high pitch whine. If thats normal I'll have to live with it until I can wire it come on with a switch instead of running all the time the ignition is on.
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Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
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06-21-12 02:47 AM - Post#2239718
In response to 57tim
Hello;
You need to put "any" fan on a temp controlled circuit! or a on-off switch.
If your fan comes on when the key goes to "on" position, that fan is causing a drain on the electrical system that needs "all the juice" it can muster to engage the starter!
I don't know about your set up but you also "should" have that fan wired to a relay to help with the draw of current it can make on your electrical system.
Btuce
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
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06-21-12 06:19 AM - Post#2239756
In response to Bruces 57
I have a relay. When you hit the starter the fan is not on since the ignition switch disables the the other circuts except the lights.
I plan to put a switch in it but today I need to get to Back to the 50's so it will have to wait. I'll live with teh sound for now. 
Just wondering if they are noisey fans.
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 Henrys57wagon
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06-21-12 08:02 AM - Post#2239771
In response to 57tim
Spal fans come in 3 different blade designs, the quiet blade shape pushed the least amount of air and the "S"( I hope I got the shape right)is the loudest and moves the most amount. Check the Spal site for more info, good day.
Some info;
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=CategoryB...
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2Loose
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06-21-12 10:42 AM - Post#2239811
In response to Henrys57wagon
I can't hear my Spal fans at all....
But that's just because my blower drive noise drowns it out! 
The temp. switch keeps it off until it hits 180 or so, and with the large Becool radiator i put in, and the aluminum heads, it takes awhile to get warm enough to where the fans are needed. I can tell when the fans kick in, as the volt meter drops about a half a volt when the fan relay kicks in. In normal driving the fans only seem to come on when in traffic, out on the open road they do not usually ever come on, as I think there is plenty of air coming through the radiator to keep it cool. Even in 90 deg. heat (about as hot as it ever gets here in the summer) it seems to be that way. In traffic they only seem to only come on briefly then off again.
I had to play with my fan switch location on the motor though, a port in the intake at the rear of the motor didn't work, the motor would get way hot before they would kick in, I finally worked a way to put it in the neck of the thermostat housing where it senses the temp rise immediately and that seems to work pretty well.
Hope this helps.
Aloha,
Willy
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-21-12 10:53 AM - Post#2239819
In response to Henrys57wagon
I have the none "S" shaped. They move the least amount of air, thats what I had was an "S" Hayden.
I installed a switch today so I can turn it off when not needed. I don't want to use a themp control if I don't have to. I live in the country so most of my cruiseing is on the highway.
Back to 50's is my worstcase traffic conditions so I think I can make due with manual switching.
Thanks for the help guys.
Edited by 57tim on 06-21-12 10:53 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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awsum55
Senior Member
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06-21-12 01:54 PM - Post#2239852
In response to 57tim
The 16" Spals are unusually loud compared to the dual 11".
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5Larry7
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06-21-12 05:02 PM - Post#2239920
In response to Bruces 57
I would suggest that whatever fan you use, it should be on a thermostatic switch. Thus it will only come on when the engine temperature reaches 185 or whatever temperature switch you install. I have my dual Spal fans set up that way, sometimes during cooler weather, they don't come on at all if I get on the freeway soon after I start it up. The air through the radiator is enough. I agree that it should be powered via a relay.
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elkhornranger
Contributor
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06-21-12 07:30 PM - Post#2239983
In response to 5Larry7
I have a 16" spal puller and at high speed it is very loud, probably sounds like 2 loose blower.
I have it wired through a flex-a-lite variable speed controller so it only comes on 60% speed most of time unless ac is on or it is really hot. Before the VSC it was almost unbearable loud.
Cole
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2477
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
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06-24-12 04:05 PM - Post#2240880
In response to elkhornranger
I had a spectator shout at me to turn off the fan. I'll check out that variable speed controller.
My intake manifold only has one drilled and tapped hole for a temp guage but the intake has a boss where another hole could be drilled and tapped but thats not going to happen unless I need to remove the intake for some reason.
Vintage Air had a display and sells Spal fans. They sold me a vairable temp controller that has its temp sensor in the radiator drain hole and you adjust the temp you want the fan to come on.
They even tried several fans they had and the best one was a race only puller but I needed a pusher.
Over the weekend that fan seams to have gotten a little quieter but still annoying.
My switch failed(my fault) as I left Thursday and blew a fuse. I just replaced the fuse hard wired it to be on with the ignition and grinned a beared it.
Worst case I'll install my quiet fan for everyday use and change it out for noise when necessary. but I'll look into the speed comtroller as well.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Henrys57wagon
Canadian Regional Coordinator &"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-24-12 04:52 PM - Post#2240893
In response to 57tim
I would think that a temp sensor in the bottom of the rad would be the last place to install a controller as it is typically the coolest place in the system, yes/ no?? I use a thermostat housing with multi ports in it, good day.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
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06-24-12 05:24 PM - Post#2240905
In response to Henrys57wagon
I agree with you Henry. You want the temperature sensor in the coolant that's hot and going into the radiator, not the cooled coolant coming out of it.
If your radiator and fan is working right, the temperature of the coolant coming OUT of the radiator is 30-50º LESS than the inlet temperature.
If you don't have a spot to put the extra sensor, get an inexpensive spacer with extra ports that goes under the thermostat housing. Summit and Jeg's have them.
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2477
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
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06-25-12 07:25 PM - Post#2241309
In response to Rick_L
Thanks. I look for the multi port housing spacer.
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2477
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
Reg: 11-09-01
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06-25-12 07:53 PM - Post#2241322
In response to Rick_L
Is there ususlly a hole in the early SBC head for a temp sensor or did that start with the 350 Chevys? My heads do not have the accessoriey holes drilled and taped if that helps. They are powerpack(single v notch).
Thanks.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
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06-26-12 07:53 AM - Post#2241473
In response to 57tim
They started putting the temp port in the head at the same time they started putting the accessory mount bolt holes in the ends of the heads.
I think your best bet is that theromostat housing spacer.
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2477
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
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06-26-12 09:18 AM - Post#2241500
In response to Rick_L
Ok, thanks.
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Thadd
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06-26-12 03:00 PM - Post#2241611
In response to 57tim
Just another "preaching to the choir" moment. The single 16" Spal puller in my 55 was so annoying, I changed over to the 2 X 11" and, though still noisy, it didn't try to run me out of the car.
Also, when the fan (16") would kick in at an idle, it drew so much power that it slowed engine idle speed down a couple hundred RPM !! That was with the old 45 Amp alternator that would not keep the batteries hot with the fans, A/C and stereo all running full blast !!!
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57tim
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2477
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
Reg: 11-09-01
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06-26-12 04:57 PM - Post#2241650
In response to Thadd
Yes, I ungraded to a 63 amp alternator.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24737
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
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06-26-12 06:04 PM - Post#2241670
In response to 57tim
A couple of cures, though not simple, come to mind.
If you get a dual 11" Spal fan setup, you can wire it to run at half speed or full speed by using 3 relays, and using the appropriate sensors. High speed doesn't kick in until the temperature rises another 15-20º. Or you can wire it to run only one of the two fans until you reach the second set point.
Also there is a 16" fan from Taurus, Lincoln Mk8 and other Fords that has a low speed wire and a high speed wire.
Any of these can keep fan noise down unless you really need a lot of cooling.
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 elvis
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06-26-12 07:02 PM - Post#2241701
In response to 57tim
The only experience I have with a Spal fan is on the tranny cooler. of our 57 BA. I can hear it occasionally. To me that's a good feeling though. I don't believe it's all that loud.
Donny at AAW sent me the relay kit for this add-on and walked me through the install. the fan comes on as the temp sender requires. On Donny's instruction, we included a 6 amp "fail-safe", back-up switch under the dash.
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