JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-17-12 03:53 PM - Post#2238350
I have the car apart, 57 Convertible, I need to get the top up. Should I try to power the top motor or can I unhook the cylinders?
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 WagonMan
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-17-12 04:01 PM - Post#2238354
In response to JMBELB57
As long as you don't have any wires shorted out somewhere you can power it up. If not sure, use an ohmmeter to check for any shorts from the top power wire (with no power applied). Not a problem disconnecting the cylinders either.
Charles
57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)
53 Chevy 3100 (bought '96)
-250 I6/TH350 |
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 george88gta
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-17-12 04:09 PM - Post#2238360
In response to WagonMan
If you are dealing with an unknown, the safest method would be to remove the cylinders and lift manually. Wouldnt hurt to use some spray grease or oil on the pivot points.
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
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06-17-12 04:22 PM - Post#2238364
In response to george88gta
I disconnected what I thought were the brackets going to the cyliders, but apprently no the right. I can get it up a little more but the main beck part of the fram will not come up. How should I go about disconnecting the main part of the frame? Thank you all
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JMBELB57
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Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
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06-17-12 04:41 PM - Post#2238373
In response to JMBELB57
No way powering it up will work. The car has not had power for 8 years or so and the top has not been up for about 15. Always kept inside and in pretty good shape overall but the taken apart. It looks pretty tight to get the cylinder bolts off, I am sure they need replaced anyway so I might as well figure it out. I am going to wait for some insight before I just go unbolting things.....
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george88gta
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06-17-12 04:56 PM - Post#2238378
In response to JMBELB57
You probably dont want to start unbolting things. Just remove the two bolts ( one on each side ) that attach the cylinders to the frame assembly. Any disassembly more than that will cause the frame to go out of alignment and you probably wont be able to get it to move properly. What you want to accomplish is to make it a manual top rather than a power top. Disconnecting the cylinders will make that happen. As I mentioned earlier, some oil or grease will help a lot.
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JMBELB57
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Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
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06-17-12 05:14 PM - Post#2238387
In response to george88gta
Ok, Thank you, I am going to give that a shot.
One question though, should I disconnet the cylinder at the top or the bottom? The bolt at the top of the cylinder seems very hard to get to??
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george88gta
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06-17-12 05:20 PM - Post#2238391
In response to JMBELB57
I would remove the top bolt first. That separates the top frame from the cylinder.
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-17-12 05:29 PM - Post#2238399
In response to george88gta
Sounds simple but seriously, how does that bolt EVER go back in??
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rockfangd
Contributor
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06-17-12 08:50 PM - Post#2238520
In response to JMBELB57
long shot but there isnt a manual release for the hydraulics? I am familiar with chrysler and they haave a release that you turn in the trunk, it releases hydraulic pressure to manually control the top in the event of electrical failure.
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george88gta
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06-18-12 05:33 AM - Post#2238595
In response to rockfangd
long shot but there isnt a manual release for the hydraulics? I am familiar with chrysler and they haave a release that you turn in the trunk, it releases hydraulic pressure to manually control the top in the event of electrical failure.
Not sure, I will dig thru the shop manual to see about a release and if they mention any method for removing/installing the bolts.
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george88gta
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06-18-12 06:56 AM - Post#2238620
In response to george88gta
Shop manual states that you remove the top bolt to separate the cylinders from the frame assembly. The top should be in the UP position and the bolts are easy to reach. I didnt see any manual release process. The book states to disconnect the cylinders from the frame and move the top manually thru its range of motion.
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WagonMan
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-18-12 11:48 AM - Post#2238755
In response to george88gta
I have also worked on a few tops that I could start pulling up on the top, keeping pressure towards the front and there will be enough bleed through the pump to raise the top. It can take as long as 10 minutes to do it this way but if all you have is time it will work, just very slowly. Once you get it up this way you can then reach the bolts and disconnect the cylinder from the top frame.
Charles
57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
56 BA 4dr. ht.(bought '98)
-265/TH350 Mostly Stock
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)
53 Chevy 3100 (bought '96)
-250 I6/TH350 |
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-18-12 03:43 PM - Post#2238855
In response to WagonMan
Ok, thank you all very much for the advice. I am going to give it another shot tonite. I feel more comfortable knowing that there is access to the top bolts when the top is in the closed position. The idea of closing it manually and slowly hoping the bleed through would let the pistons move went through my mind. My main concern with that was bending or tweaking the top frame. This thing has been in the down position for literally YEARS and I am wondering if the pistons could even be froze or something. I am going to give it the ole college try!
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-18-12 05:43 PM - Post#2238897
In response to JMBELB57
Well, I got the nuts off and as I expected I cannot get the bolts out. Too much pressure from the top cylinders? I hate to try and pry on them and smash the threads...any ides?
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george88gta
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06-18-12 06:03 PM - Post#2238900
In response to JMBELB57
Well, I got the nuts off and as I expected I cannot get the bolts out. Too much pressure from the top cylinders? I hate to try and pry on them and smash the threads...any ides?
I would suggest that you spray all the pivot points with some PB or other type of penetrant. Let it sit for a while and then try moving the frame. If it is just pressure, it should loosen up and then you can get the bolts loose. If the cylinders are stuck, the only thing I can think of would be to try and get the bottom bolts out. First disconnect the hydraulic lines. Have fun!
Edited by george88gta on 06-18-12 06:04 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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JMBELB57
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Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-18-12 06:09 PM - Post#2238902
In response to george88gta
You answered my next question.....I am going that route and wondered about the hydralic lines.....Are you close to Indiana? I could use some help!!
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george88gta
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Loc: new york
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06-18-12 06:30 PM - Post#2238909
In response to JMBELB57
Would be more than willing to help, but I am in New York, a bit too far to "stop by". Looks like you are in "backyard mechanic" mode and will have to rely on intuition. Just dont start unbolting things, the top assembly is tough to align. Best if you can keep it intact. Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-18-12 06:31 PM - Post#2238911
In response to JMBELB57
Well no luck tonite.
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 57belairman
"10th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
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06-18-12 07:01 PM - Post#2238924
In response to JMBELB57
Did you disconnect the lines? Did any fluid come out? If it has the original fluid it's going to be stuck for sure. They used brake fluid back in the day. I use trans fluid in mine and it works good. I changed it out about 6 years ago when I rebuilt the pump. Im not sure what was in there but it was a yellow gooie mess. I put new lines and flushed out the cylinders. Good luck. Post some pictures for us to see. Maybe that will help.
Life is short, Eat dessert first, I always do!!
Picturetrail
57 2dr ht red
57 Convertible
57 Nomad
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57 3100 Pickup
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-18-12 07:24 PM - Post#2238936
In response to 57belairman
I soaked the fittings with some 3n1 oil and all the pivot points. I am going to go forward tomorrow. Is there any way to post pics without having them stored in something like photo bucket? I am posititve it is the original fluid, my dad got the car in 1972 and I have never known it to be changed. I took the bottom bracket loose, 2 bolts, that go into the ridge on the floor pan and could no movement what-so-ever out of the piston(drivers side) I was getting frustrated so I thought I would just let the oil soak in and give it a shot tomorrow.
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-18-12 07:28 PM - Post#2238937
In response to george88gta
Yeah, definate back yard mode! too bad Indiana is so far from New York, I could use the help!
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-19-12 11:03 AM - Post#2239137
In response to JMBELB57
I see now why I cannot simply upload pics to my posts.....I have to be a paying member....I will be happy to donate to this great site....stay tuned and I will post my pics.
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JMBELB57
Forum Newbie
Posts: 16
Age: 43
Loc: Attica Indiana
Reg: 06-09-12
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06-21-12 06:12 PM - Post#2239949
In response to JMBELB57
I have been very busy at work, I hope to get back at it this weekend. Wish me luck...
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57convert
Forum Newbie
Posts: 25
Loc: Maryland
Reg: 01-28-07
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06-21-12 06:39 PM - Post#2239958
In response to JMBELB57
My convertible top was the same way when I purchased the car. I had to spray PB Blaster penatrant on ALL the pivot joints and kept working the frame back and forth until they loosened up. It's hard to believe that they can get that tight from sitting over the years, but they do. Even inside a garage, moisture causes those joints to rust and seize up. Give the PB time to break up that rust and it will loosen up.
Good luck
Don
57 Chevy Convertible (doing frame-off resto)
I Luv'er topless!!!  |
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CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1746
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
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06-21-12 10:04 PM - Post#2240035
In response to JMBELB57
Right above this guys's hand. 1 Bolt, shouldn't be that tough to get out. That said, once the bolt is out, your framing may be bound up in a spot or two so work slowly. Work from the middle of the windshield header and lift straight up on it initially, then start pulling it over. It's not light either, top assembly is probably close to 100#.
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
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